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CONTINENTAL TRAVEL; 



AN APPENDIX 



INFLUENCE OF CLIMATE, THE REMEDIAL 
ADVANTAGES OF TRAVELLING, 



J 
By EDWIN LEE, Esq., 

MEMBEB OF THE PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN MEDICAL SOCIETlEg, &C. 



"Dico (li quel die non sajiete forsc." -AaiosTO. 



LONDON: 
W. J. ADAMS, 59, FLEET- STREET. 



1848. 



^^^*^ 

V 



r K E F A C E . 

The present volume is adapted for home reading 
as a book of travels, as well as for an indicator 
to the continental visitor or valetudinarian; 
gi\ing an account of local peculiarities and the 
leading objects of interest, Avithout entering into 
the ordinary details of guide-books, and dwelling 
more particularly upon points which have re- 
ference to health:* the author's object being to 
impart condensed information relative to those 
parts most frequently visited, from which may 
be formed a more correct appreciation of their 
advantages, as compared with our own country, 
than is usually the case. The work may, in 
fact, be regarded as an improved edition of one 
which appeared some years ago, and was very 
favorably received, entitled " INIemoranda on 
France, Italy, and Germany," subsequent visits 

* Information respecting modes of conveyance, liotcls, &c., may be 
derived from Diiulshaw's ConUnenUd Ituilwui/ Guide, wliiuli is issued 
montlily. 



IV. PREFACE. 

abroad having enabled the author to alter and 
adapt it in accordance with his increased o]3por- 
tunities of observation, and to the circumstances 
of the present times, respecting Avhich he has 
offered such comments as the recent course of 
events seemed to justify. In the Appendix are 
subjoined remarks on the general influence of 
climate and travelling, as also on some prevalent 
causes of disordered health among the upper 
classes of society, which so often necessitate a 
recourse to these and other remedial means of 
relief; and if, by directing attention to these 
causes, the author can be at all instrumental in 
preventing the frequently irremediable conse- 
quences Avhich their persistance entails, he will 
derive much satisfaction from the consciousness 
that his endeavours have not been useless. 

London; August, 1848. 



POSTSCRIPT. 

The recent course of events has tended to 
corroborate the opinions expressed in the text — 
France ha^dng passed through one of the phases 
of republicanism, and being now subject to a 
military dictator, Avhich may be considered as 
the prelude to the re-establishment of the mo- 
narchy at no very distant period.* The reverses 
of the King of Sardinia, in Northern Italy, will 
most probably give rise to French intervention 
(as soon as the troops can be with safety spared 
from France, inasmuch as occupation must be 
found for the large army, and a vent for the 
turbulent), with the probable ultimate annexation 
of Savoy to the French territory ; but, as Austria 
now forms part of the general league, a collision 
with that power must entail war with Germany. 
At Rome the power of the Pope is becoming 
more and more circumscribed. 

August, 1848. 

* Tlic Westminster Revieiv, in uoticiupf tlic proof aliouts of tliis work, 
before publication, observes, " Tiic trutii ol' liie autliur's observations (as 
respects France) has l»een nianitested duriiiy" tlie iale (K'|)l()riil»le events in 
tlie Frencii cajiital." 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

ROME, FROM THE TIBER (Page 113) To face Title Page. 

PAU Page 60 

NICE „ 76 

PLACE OF THE GRAND DUKE OF FLORENCE „ 96 

KARLSBAD „ 237 

DRESDEN „ 248 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 
Routes to Paris — Boulogne — Paris — French Characteristics — Recent 
Changes — Climate and Medical Practice . . . Page 1 

CHAPTER II. 

Lyons — The Rhone — Marseilles — Climate of Provence — Hieres — Cannes 
Nismes — Montpelier — Canal du Midi . . . . 19 

CHAPTER III. 

Toulouse — Pyrenean Baths — Bagneres de Luchon — Bagneres de 
Bigorre — Lourdes — Vale of Argelcs — The Cagots — Bareges — 
St. Sauveur — Gavarnie — Cauterets and its Mineral Sj^rings . 38 

CHAPTER IV. 

Pan and its Climate — Eaux Bonnes and Chaudes — Lihabitants of the 
Pyrenees — The Landes — Bordeaux and its Climate — Tours . GO 

CHAPTER V. 
Nice — Climate and Remedial Advantages — Cornice Road — Genoa — Road 
■ to Lucca — Lucca Baths 75 

CHAPTER VI. 

Pisa and its Climate — Leghorn — Florence — Charitable Societies — 
Environs — Climate — Road to Rome .... 93 



Vlll. CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VII. 

Rome — Churches and Picture Galleries — Environs — Roman Character- 
istics — The Clergy — Prosely tism — Church Ceremonies — Malaria 
— Climate, and Complaints in which it is Beneficial . .113 

CHAPTER YIII. 

Naples — Environs — Neapolitan Character — Climate — ViaLatina — Abbey 
of Monte Casino — Road to Florence by Semi — Malta — Palermo 143 

CHAPTER IX. 

Bologna — Parma — Milan — Pellagra — The Lakes — The Simplon — Valley 
of the Rhone — Cretinism — Baths of Leuk . . .166 

CHAPTER X. 

Geneva — Aix les Bains — Turin — Col de Tenda — Berne — Interlacken — 
Venice— Pass of Ampezzo — Innspruck — Kreuth . . 183 

CHAPTER XI. 

Munich — Public Buildings — Climate — The Danube — Gastein — Vienna — 
Cave of Adelsberg— Trieste 203 

CHAPTER XII. 

Nuremberg — Franconian Switzerland — Bohemian Baths — Franzensbad 
— Marienbad — Carlsbad — Prague — ^Teplitz — Dresden . . 230 

CHAPTER Xni. 
Leipsic — Homoeopathy — Berlin — Hamburg — Weimar — Kissingen — 
Frankfort — The Bergstrasse — Baden Baden— Stuttgard . 253 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Nassau Baths — Wiesbaden — Schlangenbad — Schwalbach —- Ems — The 
Rhine — Aix la Chapelle — Spa — Brussels — Antwerp — Calais 275 

APPENDIX. 
Remarks on the Influence of Climate and Travel, and on some Prevalent 
Causes of Disease 299 



CONTINENTAL TRAVELLER 



INVALID'S HAND-BOOK. 



CHAPTER I. 

ROUTES TO PARIS — BOULOGNE — PAHIS — FRENCH CHARACTERISTICS — 
RECENT CHANGES-CLIMATE, AND MEDICAL PRACTICE. 

Considering Paris as the first point to be reached 
by the traveller proceeding southward, each of 
the routes presents its advantages. That by 
Brighton and Dieppe is the most direct, but 
tlie sea passage being of five or six hours' dura- 
tion, the communication is much less frequent 
than across the narrower parts of the Channel, 
and in the winter months is altogether inter- 
rupted: the entrance to Dieppe harbour is not 
very good; and, on account of there being no 
harbour at Brighton, the landing and embarkation 
there is not always practicable, in which case 
passengers have to land at Shoreham. Dieppe 
is a neat town of 16,000 inhabitants; the Grande 
rue, running through to the port, contains the 
best hotels, and in the season has a cheerful and 
animated appearance. The port is spacious, and 



Z ROUTES TO PARIS. 

is commanded by a citadel and castle. Tlie 
principal inducement Dieppe presents for the 
temporary sojourn of strangers is the bathing, this 
being the nearest sea-bathing establishment to 
Paris. The baths are under the superintendence 
of a physician inspector, as at the other sea and 
mineral bathing-places in France. Between 
Dieppe and Paris the country is agreeably diver- 
sified, the road passing through the most fruitful 
part of Normandy, and the journey by railroad 
from Rouen being made in about four hours. 
Except the cathedral, St. Ouen, and the quays, 
there is little to interest the passing traveller in 
this city. Between Dieppe and Havre the scenery 
of the Seine is, however, of the most interesting 
description, especially where the river widens 
out, near Quilleboeuf. This is an inducement 
with some to prefer the Havre passage from 
Shoreham, which lasts about an hour and a-half 
longer. This is one of the finest ports of France, 
admitting the largest vessels, and regularly com- 
municating with America, St. Petersburg, and 
other important points. There is at Ha^TC a 
small Enghsh colony, and the establishment 
Frascati presents some resource for recreation. 
Most of the merchants and English residents live 
at the large subui'b Ingonville. The objection 
to a long trajet will, however, always induce the 
great majority of travellers to prefer the two 
hours' passage between Folkstone or Dover, and 
Boulogne and Calais, especially as the railroad is 



BOULOGNE. 3 

now open from the former town to Paris, which 
may be reached in about eight hours. 

Boulogne is an agreeable town for a short 
residence in the summer season, and has been 
of late years a good deal resorted to by families 
from England, on account of sea bathing, which is 
excellent, a fine sandy beach extending at low 
water eastward of the port, which has been greatly 
improved by the construction of a jetty along the 
ridge of rocks that formerly rendered the entrance 
less safe. The streets are clean, wide, and have 
an animated appearance; and several of the shops 
are handsome. The lower town lies at the base 
and up the acclivity of a steep liill, on Avhicli 
stands the high town, inclosed by ramparts, planted 
with trees, and forming an agreeable promenade, 
whence extensive views may be obtained of the 
surrounding country. The population amounts 
to thirty thousand; many rentiers reside in the 
high town, whilst the inhabitants of the lower 
town are for the most part engaged in commercial 
and professional avocations, are lodging-house 
keepers, or connected mth the port. 

The environs arc agreeable, and the air is light 
and bracing, but the winter is generally severe, 
on account of the northern aspect and unsheltered 
position of the town, and cold ^vinds and storms 
are of frequent occurrence. Boulogne is, however, 
on the whole, a healthy place of residence, and 
generally agrees well with children, though it 
would not be an advisable place for delicate 



4: ROUTES TO TARIS. 

persons, or for those Vv^ho are " servile to skyey 
influences." The resident English population 
usually averages, in peaceful times, between three 
and foui" thousand, many being induced to select 
it for an abode on account of its neighbourhood 
to England, its comparative cheapness, and the 
facilities for education. There are also several 
officers on half pay, and some whose means of 
existence are more problematical. Boulogne is 
also often referred to as a place of resort for those 
who are under the necessity of a temporary or 
jDrolonged absence from England; the society has 
consequently acquired the reputation of not being 
the most select. The superior class of the 
Boulognese are generally courteous in their 
demeanour; the lower orders are for the most 
part sober, good-tempered, though at times em- 
jportes^ fond of gaiety and dancing, and civil to 
strangers; the women are strong, and work hard. 
Boulogne possesses a tolerable museum and 
reading-room, where the English paj^ers are daily 
received. The most usual lounge is on the port 
and jetty to watch the arrival and departure of 
the packets. 

Nothing is lost, as regards scenery, in journeying 
by railroad to Paris, the country being, for the 
most part, a continued succession of hill and dale, 
and though generally productive in corn, is but 
scantily wooded, and offers but little to interest 
the traveller. The few chateaux seen on the 
roadside are most of them formal looking 



ABBEVILLE AMIENS ST. DENIS. O 

and cheerless, and the absence of detached cot- 
tages are characteristic of the more gregarious 
habits of the people. The pleasures of rural life, 
and the country house society, so universal in 
England, are but little known or appreciated ; 
field sjDorts being comparatively httle followed in 
France, landed proprietors, consequently, seldom 
reside on their estates for more than a few weeks 
in the year, the great majority preferring the 
attractions of the capital, the larger provincial 
towns, or the watering-places. The French 
j^easantry are generally robust, and more sober 
than the English, living principally upon bread, 
vegetables, milk, and bad wine, and eating meat 
only once or twice in the week ; the villages and 
hamlets in which they congregate, though im- 
proved in appearance of late years, look anything 
but attractive. 

The dull town of Abbeville contains nothing 
of interest but its fine cathedral. The same may 
be said of Amiens, which, however, is a more 
tolerable place of residence. Bcauvais, which is 
at some distance from the line, lies in a more 
agreeable part of the country and has a more 
cheerful aspect. Its cathedral and the tapestry 
manufactory arc worth Aisiting. At St. Denis 
the fine old catliedral, and the tombs of the kings 
of France in its vaults, will be viewcxl with inte- 
rest, and will Avell repay the time occupied in an 
excursion from the metropolis. 

Few cities stood in greater need of improAC- 



b PARIS. 

ment than did Paris some years ago, and there is 
perhaps none in which so much has been effected 
in so short a space of time. New quarters have 
arisen in various directions; numerous streets 
have been widened, and foot-pavements added; 
and the greater cleanliness both in and out of 
doors, as well as the improved accommodation 
generally, render the meaning of the word comfort 
(which the French language has adopted) now 
better understood. The speedy completion of 
several new edifices and public works is in great 
measure owing to the ex-King, who, it is said, 
contributed' largely to the embellishment of the 
capital. 

Standing near the obelisk, in the Place de la 
Concorde, the stranger may enjoy a coup d'oeil 
unique in its kind. The splendid appearance of 
the Place, and of its two fountains, the view of 
the bridge and Chamber of Deputies, of the 
beautiful newly-erected facade of La Madeleine, 
of the gardens and palace of the Tuileries, and of 
the magnificent arch of Neuilly, seen through the 
vista of the Champs Elysees, will leave an inde- 
lible impression upon the memory. Another 
view, scarcely to be equalled in Europe, may be 
obtained from either of the bridges opposite the 
Tuileries. The extent of this palace and the 
Louvre (near half a mile), the spacious quays 
teeming with life, the light cheerful aspect of the 
houses, the two branches of the river passing 
between the Pont Neuf, and having enclosed the 



TARIS. 1 

He de la Cite, uniting into one broad stream, 
with the venerable towers of Notre Dame, rismg 
high above the surrounding buildings, form an 
ensemhlc which could hardly fail to attract the 
attention of the most indifferent spectator. The 
visitor will also be highly gratified by the pano- 
rama of the city displayed from the summit of 
Notre Dame, or of the arch of Neuilly, the clear- 
ness of the atmosphere on a fine day enabhng 
him to see the wdiole at a glance. 

If the city have undergone great changes 
wdthin the last twenty years, still greater had 
taken place in the demeanour and character of its 
inhabitants. Paris, and indeed France in general, 
could not, even before the recent change from a 
monarchy to a republic, have been termed with 
propriety the 

" Gay, sprightly land of mirtli and social ease, 
Pleased with itself, whom all the world can please '^* 

for instead of the polite, light-hearted people of 
former days, one more frequently met with serious, 
anxious, business-like countenances; vivacity had 
given place to a sedate demeanour, and to com- 
parative taciturnity, and hrusqucrie was not un- 
frequently witnessed in public places.* The 

* " I\ry first impression of the French character," says Mr. l\Iatt!icws, 
" is, that it must be greatly changed from that gay and lively frivolity 
of which we used to hear so much. My fellow-passengers are serious 
and reserved; each man seems to suspect his neighbour, and at the 
tables d'hote, where I have dined and supped during my route, the 
company could not iiavc been more silent and sombre if the scene had 
been laid in England in the mouth of November." — Dia7-y of an Invalid. 



8 PARIS. 

love of self appeared in a more prominent light, 
the acquisition of money being the object of the 
great majority of all classes, and there are few 
strangers but have had to complain of the greater 
disposition to take advantage on the part of the 
tradespeople, and others with whom they were 
brought into contact. The women were not free 
from this reproach, being often more exigeantes 
than the men. Titles of nobility being no longer 
hereditary, were but little estimated, wealth being 
the idol to which most bowed. Among the upper 
classes the talent of conversation is possessed in 
a high degree, and egotism is at least more veiled 
by the exterior forms of politeness ; the essence, 
however, which consists not merely in a courteous 
demeanour, but in doing civil and kind acts 
without interested motives, even though it may 
be at some personal inconvenience, is much more 
rare at the present day. The following obser- 
vation of Mr. Matthews, as regards the difference 
of manners between the French and certain 
individuals among the English, is still pretty 
correct : — '" There is in France a universal quick- 
ness of intellect and apprehension, and a perfect 
freedom from that awkward embarrassment of 
manner which is in England, I believe, denomi- 
nated clownishness. As far, therefore, as the 
mere outward air of good breeding goes, almost 
every Frenchman is well bred, and you may enter 
into conversation with a French servant or cobler 
upon any of the topics that are common to the 



TARIS. y 

mixed company of rational and intelligent people 
all over the world, without any fear of being 
disgusted by coarseness or vulgarity." The great 
majority, especially of the upper class of Parisians, 
has been, in fact, educated more with reference 
to society than to domestic life, if the thronged 
reunions mid liasons de salon can be called society, 
where there is generally little else than a 



" Commerce exterieur, union sans jicncliant, 
Que fait naitrc I'usagc ct uon le sentiment ; 



Where 



" L'esprit vole toujours sur la supcrficie, 
Et le cojur nc se voit jamais de la partic.' 



And this desire of shining in society leads the 
French (as also foreigners in general) to cultivate 
the art of pleasing more than the English, thougli 
the exercise of the said art is too frequently 
restricted to society, without being carried into 
the family circle. Thus, the Frenchman generally 
possesses a greater variety of information, and 
can converse more readily upon most subjects 
(though his knowledge of them may not be very 
profound) than the Englishman, whose time at 
college has probably been more occupied by his 
classical studies, to the neglect of other more 
available knowledge, or else in more practical 
occupations. 

To the same cause may be ascribed the greater 
reputation of foreigners for gallantry, and the 
compliments which they so commonly introduce 



10 



FRENCH SOCIETY. 



(sometimes without much delicacy or discrimina- 
tion) in their discourse with the fair sex; and 
though these are seldom adopted by Englishmen, it 
must be confessed that the introduction of the more 
easy manners and colloquial powers of the French 
would go far towards removing the insipidity 
attendant on some crowded meetings where the 
company is exclusively English, and the conver- 
sation not the most sjnritueUe. Thus, as may be 
supposed from their greater disposition to enjoy 
the present, and effleurer les choses de la vie, the 
French are more agreeable as acquaintances than 
the English, who, however, are generally more to 
be depended upon as friends, or where any service 
is required. 

The influence of rehgion is almost null among 
the largest proportion of the population of most 
parts of France, and that of the moral principle 
is not very powerfid, both good and bad actions 
being more frequently performed from impulse, 
or in accordance with the dictates of interest or 
pleasure, than from reflection, or from a due 
regard to what is right or wrong, wliich, from 
being inculcated at an early age, is more universal 
in England. Personal courage and an exagge- 
rated idea of the superiority of France and 
Frenchmen over all other nations, as well as a 
great susceptibility to anything which is con- 
sidered to affect the national or individual honour, 
are universal among all classes ; hence the readi- 
ness to have recourse to arms, and the greater 



FRENCH SOCIETY. 11 

frequency of duels to settle disputes and misdeeds 
affecting society, which in England (where the 
di-ead of moral responsibility and of the law 
operates as a salutary restraint upon personal 
conflicts) are frequently arranged by apology, or 
arc submitted to the decision of the judicial 
tribunals. Even among common soldiers in 
France, when disputes cannot be arranged, a duel 
with the sword is a frequent consequence. 

The love of pleasure, Avhich pervades all classes 
in France to a much greater extent than in 
England, is not always of the most refined nature : 
hence a morbid craving for excitement and novelty 
is engendered, and a vitiated taste is acquired, to 
which writers and dramatists of considerable talent 
have not scrupled to pander and to keep alive, by 
the reiterated narration of crimes and horrors, 
which, from the novel and outre combinations in 
which they were presented to the public, must 
have called forth not a little inventive power. It 
must not, however, be supposed that all were thus 
infected, for there is a large proportion of the 
upper and middle orders, among the French 
population, as estimable as could be found in any 
country, whom these productions ins])ired with 
disgust and pity; and the writings of Chateau- 
briand, Lamartine, and De Vigny, were eagerly 
perused, even by many of those who delighted in 
the creations of Victor Hugo or Georges Sand. 
It is, however, gratifying to perceive that this 
taste had of late greatly subsided : the dramas of 



12 WAR PARTY. 

Lucrece Borgia^ Marion de U Orme^ the Tour de 
Nesle^ and similar performances, having been but 
seldom exhibited on the stage, being superseded 
by the historical plays and comedies of Delavigne, 
Scribe, and others of the same school. The 
classical drama of Racine and Corneille has also 
been more in favour of late, which, however, is 
mainly to be attributed to the talent of Madlle. 
Rachel ; but the taste is not likely to last long, 
unless actors should arise, capable, like Talma, of 
embodying the characters represented by these 
great poets, whose productions are better adapted 
for reading in the closet than for exhibition on 
the stage, where the lengthy recitations are apt 
to be monotonous. 

A thirst of military renown and acquisition by 
force of arms, is strong in the minds of a large 
section of the population of France (independ- 
ently of the army,) who have the recollection of 
the brilliant career of Napoleon, and of individuals 
raised from obscure stations to the rank of colonels, 
generals, and field-marshals, without the accom- 
panying reflection of the devastation and misery 
inflicted upon other nations, and which the 
conscription and occupation by foreign armies 
subsequently entailed upon their own country. 
Such persons, many of whom may be likened 
to the conspirators against Augustus, referred to 
by Corneille, who, 

*' Si tout u'est rcuveree iie sauraluijt subBlsler, " 



WAR PARTY. 13 

dazzled by their ideas of national superiority, are 
led to entertain the supposition of a successful 
career of conquest as heretofore: a circumstance 
not likely to happen in the present day, even 
were another Napoleon to arise and take the 
command of their armies. A large proportion of 
the upper, and almost the whole of the commer- 
cial class, are, however, w^ell disposed towards 
England, being well aware of the advantage to 
both countries, but especially to their owai, of the 
continuance of peace; and also knowing that they 
could not expect to meet with firm allies in either 
of the other three great powers. The peace party^ 
though perhaps the most numerous, are unfortu- 
nately the least active (in a political jioint of view^) 
portion of the community; and fcAV persons who 
have marked the course of events, can doubt 
that the preservation of peace since the rc^•olution 
of 1830 was in great measure owing to the sagacity 
and firmness of the King, who, however, so far 
availed himself of the war cry a few years ago, as 
to obtain the completion of his project of sur- 
rounding Paris by fortifications, under the pretext 
of defence in the event of the approach of hostile 
armies, but in truth as a means of ensuring the 
durability of his dynasty, by the power of con- 
trolling the faiixhourgs^ and of commanding the 
cit}'. These works were completed with great 
rapidity, before many of those who were in favour 
of their erection could become awakened to their 
true purpose, wliich they did not fail to be when 



14 RECENT CHANGES. 

the expenses came under the consideration of the 
Chambers. These were so great as to occasion 
considerable dissatisfaction, which gave rise to 
the jeu de mots — Le mur murant Paris rend Paris 
murmurant. Had the King died, or fallen by the 
hand of an assassin, France would, in all proba- 
bility, long ago have been at war, or in a state of 
internal revolution, which the vent afforded by 
the occupation of Algeria in some measure tended 
to prevent, and to avert which, it is not unlikely 
that, when no longer able to contain the disaf- 
fected within bounds, their rulers may adopt the 
alternative of war, acting upon the principle 
recommended by Shakspeare's Henry the Fourth 
to his son, to "busy giddy minds with foreign 
quarrels," and in this way relieve themselves from 
some of the turbulent spirits by which their 
political existence is constantly endangered. 

The above remarks, having already been pub- 
lished in the work referred to, appear to be borne 
out by the course which events have taken within 
the last three months. The paucity of religious 
and moral feeling m the bulk of the population — 
the pernicious influence of the style of literature 
and of the drama, for some years past, upon the 
higher as w^ell as upon other classes (as exem- 
plified in the Praslm tragedy) — the universal and 
often dishonourable competition for wealth, as 
the means of pandering to artificial excitement — 
the consequent corruption and peculations in the 
government — the additional taxation, in order to 



RECENT CHANGES. l") 

create places for the support of the late dpiasty 
— are so many causes wliicli have been gradually 
tending to subvert the former order of things, 
though the change was accelerated by the deficient 
firmness of the King (since the death of his sister) 
at the critical moment of trial — dismissing his 
minister and appointing another, by whom an 
order was conveyed to the general in command of 
the troops not to act against the people, of wliicli 
the republican party were not slow to avail them- 
selves, and instead of removing a minister to 
overthrow the monarchy. The national guard, 
moreover, did not readily or in great numbers 
obey the rappel, both on account of the unpopu- 
larity of the government and trusting that the 
presence of the military and of the armed forts 
would suffice to control the lower classes and 
prevent a forcible revolution; so that the very- 
means which, for a series of years, had been 
cautiously and circuitously raised, as calculated 
to produce security, had no small share in causing 
the opposite effect. There being likewise, on the 
part of the troops, neither loyalty nor affection 
towards the reigning monarch (as there would be 
towards a general who could lead them to victory), 
lie found, too late, that when left to act for them- 
selves, no support was to be expected from them. 
The violent entry of the populace into the Chamber 
of Deputies, and the establishment of a republic 
amidst tumult, could not fail to produce its effect 
in destroying credit, pai-alysing connnerce, and 



16 CLIMATE OF PARIS. 

driving from the capital foreigners and persons 
of property. Paris consequently, with its boule- 
vards bare of trees, the absence of equipages in 
the streets, the numerous processions of the 
populace, the anxious countenances of the hour- 
geosie^ the scantily attended theatres, now presents 
a very different aspect from that of former days, 
and will present but few inducements for a pro 
tracted sojourn till the country has passed through 
the ordeal of revolution, the termination of which 
will most probably be in the re-establishment of 
monarchy, to which form of government the great 
bulk of the more influential inhabitants are 
strongly disposed. The recent demonstration of 
four hundred thousand troops, national guards, 
and citizens, defiling before the provisional go- 
vernment, affords, however, sufiicient guarantee 
for the maintenance of order, and a protection 
against the designs of the Communists. 

With respect to climate, the chief advantage 
■which Paris has over London consists in the 
greater purity and dryness of the atmosphere, its 
freedom from smoke and fog, and in the weather 
being less variable from day to day. The summers 
are hotter, and the winters equally cold if not 
colder. The average quantity of rain which falls 
throughout the year is about as great in the one 
as in the other capital. It would not, therefore, 
be advisable to select Paris as a Avinter residence 
for delicate invalids, or those whose cases require 
attention to climate. It agrees, however, very 



CLIMATE OF PARIS. 17 

well with many dyspeptics, to whom the light 
cookery of the French cuisine is better suited than 
the more substantial fare usually met with in 
Britain, which requires greater powers of digestion, 
pro-^dded always that this class of invalids abstain 
from ragouts, rich sauces, indigestible vegetables, 
as truffles, and from partaking of a variety of 
wines. The valetudinarian who labours under 
depression of spirits, combined with disordered 
digestion, would likewise frequently find himself 
better after a few weeks' sojourn in Paris, wliich 
offers more resources for mental relaxation and 
amusement than any other city. Baths are also 
more general, which is a great advantage, for 
there can be no doubt that the neglect of this 
means of keeping the functions of the skin in a 
proper state is the occasion of many of the com- 
plaints most frequently met with in England. 

Among the most prevalent diseases of Paris may 
be enimierated inflammations of the respiratory 
organs, consumption, typhoid fevers, intermittents, 
rheumatism, scrofula, and various forms of dys- 
pepsia. Apoplexy, paralysis, and nervous diseases 
in general appear to me to be less frequent than 
in England. As the treatment of disease presents 
considerable differences (into the consideration of 
which I have fully entered in another work*) in 
England and on the continent, the English abroad 
usually prefer being attended by medical men of 

* Observations ou the Mcilical luatitulioiib ami rraclicc of rraiicf, 
Italy, aud Gcruiaiiy. 

C 



18 MEDICAL PRACTICE, 

their own country, and at almost all the conti- 
nental towns of resort, one, two, or more prac- 
titioners reside. There is besides always a certain 
number of medical deswuvres going about the 
continent, from one place to another, and some 
of these individuals, who take the name of English 
physicians, have but little claim to the confidence 
of the public, as every body is not aware that the 
title of doctor of medicine (which does not confer 
the right to practice) may be obtained with very 
little trouble from certain foreign universities, 
which require little else than the payment of the 
fees. Travellers, therefore, when they hear speak 
of Doctor So-and-So, will do well to ascertain, 
before entrusting themselves to their care, how 
far they are qualified to support the title they 
assume. 

It must be admitted that in England, where 
the habit of energetic medication prevails more 
than elsewhere, drugs are often prescribed when 
not indicated, and much injury is thus done in 
many chronic diseases, especially in the dyspeptic 
and nervous complaints, with which so great a 
proportion of the inhabitants of large towns are 
afflicted. Continental practitioners frequently 
manage these cases better by means of mild 
remedies, baths, mineral waters &c., which, how- 
ever, have been latterly more universally employed 
in England than heretofore. 



CHAPTER II. 

LYONS-THE RHONE — MARSEILLES— CLIMATE OF PROVENCE-HIKRES— 
CANNES-NISMES-MONTPELIER-CANAL DU MIDI. 

The route from Paris to Lyons by Orleans is 
mostly preferred on account of the railroad being 
available as far as Bourges (and shortly to 
Nevers), the cathedral of which is one of the finest 
in France. The whole journey requii-es about 
thirty-six hours. That by Auxerre and Chalons 
takes somewhat more time; the accomodation is, 
however, better, and from the last town to Lyons 
there is constant communication by steam-boats. 
The country is for the most part interesting. Some 
of the views in the forest of Fontainbleau, through 
which the road passes, are strikingly beautiful. 
Enormous masses of grey rock, which contrast 
agreeably with the surrounding foliage, lie 
scattered about in various directions, presenting 
a novel and curious appearance. The town 
possesses some good streets, but seems to be almost 
deserted. Travellers posting may visit the chateau 
and gardens en passant. 

Sens is the first town of any importance on this 
route ; the facade of the old gothic cathedral is 
fine, but the interior contains nothhig worthy of 
observation except the mausoleum erected to tlie 



20 SENS AUTUN. 

Dauphin, the father of Louis XVI., which is but 
of indifferent execution. Auxerre is a large town, 
pleasantly situate on the Yonne, in a fruitful 
country, which produces a superior kind of wine. 
The golden tint of the vine leaves in autumn gives 
a rich and pleasing appearance to some parts of 
the country between Auxerre and Chalons, which 
at other times look dreary and cheerless. During 
the vintage season, the process of treading the 
grapes by men and women with bare feet (to 
which practice allusion is ma.de in the Scriptures), 
will frequently be seen in the vineyards on the 
road side. It is, however, a mistake to suppose that 
the peasantry in the wine countries are better off 
than in others, the reverse being more frequently 
the case, as great distress ensues if the season 
should be bad, which not unfrequently happens. 
The environs of Autun are beautiful and richly 
wooded. The town has a clean and cheerful 
aspect, the hill, on the acclivity of which it stands, 
commanding a delightful prospect. Chalons is 
also a pretty town, and looks well from a distance. 
The quays are spacious and handsome. Two or 
three steamers descend the Saone daily to Lyons, 
making the transit in six or seven hours; they 
do not, however, convey carriages, which can be 
forwarded by a steam coche d'eau. The banks of 
the river are, for the most part, flat and cidti- 
vated. Beyond Macon, celebrated for its wine, 
the scenery is extremely pleasing, and increases 
in interest on approaching Lyons. The road,wliich 



LYONS. 21 

nms in great part parallel ^^dth the river, passes 
over Mont d'Or, so called from the rich colour of 
its vineyards in autumn, and from the summit of 
which a charming and extensive prosi)ect may be 
enjoyed of the rich plains of Burgundy on the 
one side, of the Lyonnois on the other, and of 
the snow-clad Alps of Dauphine in the distance. 
The descent to Lyons passes through a succession 
of meadow land, orchards, and vineyards. 

Lyons is principally built between the Rhone 
and the Saone ; in addition to the old bridge a 
suspension bridge has recently been constructed 
over the latter river. The quays are spacious 
but not clean. The principal squares are the 
Place de Bellecour, perhaps the largest in Europe, 
and the Place des Terreaux, which contains the 
Hotel de Ville, and a good museum of natural 
history. The largest, as well as the finest public 
edifice, is the hospital, which is surmounted by a 
dome, \t^ facade occupying a considerable extent 
of the Quai du Rhone. There are no other 
public buildings remarkable in an architectural 
point of view. The streets are mostly narrow 
and dirty ; the houses old and lofty. Lyons con- 
sequently offers no inducement to travellers to 
prolong their sojourn beyond /i, day. The velvets 
and silks are justly celebrated, and their manu- 
facture occupies a large proportion of the popu- 
lation. The labouring classes, as in most other 
manufacturing towns, are for the most part 
republicans, and turbulent. The view from the 



22 AVIGNON, 

Terrasse de Fourvieres of the city, the junction 
of the two rivers, a vast extent of fertile country 
and vine-clad hills, with the distant view of the 
Alps, is considered as one of the finest in Europe. 
Steam-boats descend the Khone to Avignon in 
about eleven hours; settmg off early in the 
morning, and on the following day leave Avignon 
for Marseilles, which occupies nearly as much 
time. They are larger than those on the Saone, 
and take carriages, but the accommodation is 
indifferent, and they are often inconveniently 
full. The scenery on descending is highly inte- 
resting, not unfrequently resembling that of the 
Rhine below Mayence ; the river flowing rapidly 
between steep hills, ever and anon crowned with 
ruins, and cut in terraces for the cultivation of 
the vine. On advancing more to the south the 
banks become flatter, and the Alps rise more 
distinctly upon the view. At the Pont St. Esprit, 
which is of great antiquity, the current is very 
strong, and some degree of excitement attends 
the passing beneath the arch, several accidents 
having happened at this point. This is the only 
stone bridge between Lyons and Avignon, but 
several handsome suspension bridges have been 
constructed of late years. Wlien from any cause 
Avignon is not likely to be reached by daylight, 
the steamer does not proceed beyond Pont. St. 
Esprit, proceeding the next day to Avignon. On 
account of the rapid communication by the river 
(Avignon being distant from Lyons about 140 



AYIONOX. 23 

miles), there is not much travelling dowmvards 
by the road along its left bank, which is princi- 
pally traversed by waggons laden with heavy 
goods from INIarseilles, and is consequently fre- 
quently in bad order, especially after heavy rains. 
The towns are dirty and badly built, and the 
accommodation indifferent. Nothing but an oc- 
casional glimpse of the river and of the Cevennes 
range of hills on the opposite bank occurs to 
relieve the monotony of the route till Orange, 
where a fine Roman arch stands by the road-side, 
and beyond which the scenery is of a more inte- 
resting character, 

Avignon is encircled by high walls, and has 
every appearance of great antiquity. The papal 
palace, a fine old gothic edifice, with handsome 
facade, is now converted into barracks. From 
the top of the hill, on the acclivity of which the 
town is built, an extensive view may be obtained 
of the plains of Languedoc and Provence, as also 
of the course of the river, which is here of great 
breadth, enclosing an island which serves as a 
point dappui to the two bridges across its branches. 
In the cathedral is the tomb of " le brave Crillon" 
and the spot occupied by that of Petrarch's Laura 
is pointed out among the ruins of the church of 
the Cordeliers. The environs of Avignon are 
uninteresting, but an agreeable excursion may be 
made })y those not pressed for time to the 

" Cliiarc, f'rcschc e dolce acquc," 

of Vauc^luse, about fifteen miles distant. 



24 PROVENCE AIX. 

This fonntain, immortalised by the verse of 
Petrarch, rises in a romantic position at the base 
of a semicircle of lofty and perpendicular rocks. 
Below Avignon the scenery of the Rhone presents 
little to interest the passing traveller, and as the 
railroad to Marseilles is now open, journeying by 
the river is in great measure superseded. From 
Beaucaire, where a large annual fair takes place, 
there is also railway communication to Nismes, 
Montpelier, and Cette. 

The aspect of Provence is anything but what 
one would be led to expect from a perusal of 
some of the old romances, which expatiate upon 
the beauties of its scenery. It has for the most 
part a dreary and triste appearance ; the heat in 
summer is almost unbearable ; the roads are thick 
laid with dust, from the long contmuance of dry 
weather; and during the prevalence of high 
winds it is raised in clouds, to the great dis- 
comfort of the traveller. The only town of 
importance between Avignon and Marseilles is 
Aix, the olives of which are greatly esteemed. 
The environs are pretty, being enlivened by white 
villas, scattered about the olive-clothed hills. 
The town contains little worthy of notice, except 
the principal street, which is very wide. 

Marseilles has a population of near 200,000 
inhabitants. It ranks as the third city in France, 
and, like all large sea-ports, has a thronged and 
bustling appearance. On entering from Aix, the 
triumphal arch, begun by Napoleon, is passed. 



MARSEILLES. 25 

and the visitor drives along the Cours, a fine 
■wide street, where there were formerly avenues 
of trees. The only shady spots now existing in 
the toAvn, where the inhabitants " most do con- 
gregate," after the business of the day, are the 
Alices de Meilhan, a planted triangular square. 
A handsome new promenade, termed the Prado, 
extends from the town to the sea. The shores of 
the Mediterranean do not, however, possess the 
sandy beach which is so great an attraction to 
the sea-side in other parts ; for 

" There shrinks no ebb in that tldeless sea, 
Which changeless rolls eternally ; 
So that wildest of waves, in their angriest mood, 
Scarce break on the bounds of the land for a rood." 

The port, being generally thronged with merchant 
vessels and steamers from various countries, pre- 
sents an animated appearance ; connected with it 
is an immense basin, twenty feet deep, almost 
entii-ely hewn out of the solid rock, for repairing 
the shipping : this stupendous work, which has 
not been long completed, requu'ed the incessant 
labour of a great number of men during the 
period of nine years. 

The Promenade Buonaparte, ' at the opposite 
extremity of the town, terminates in a public 
garden, at the foot of a steep rocky hill, on wliicli 
stands the fort of Notre Dame de la Garde, 
together with the church, which is rich in votive 
offerings from sailors and their relati^'es, desirous 



26 



MARSEILLES. 



of propitiating the Virgin previous to undertaking 
a voyage, as also from others who have escaped 
" accidents by flood and field," or have recovered 
from illness by means of her supposed intercession. 
These ofierings consist of small silver hearts, 
daubs of painting, and other insignificant tokens 
of acknowledgment, the appearance of which goes 
far to verify the proverb, '•^Passato il pericolo, 
gahhato il santo" 

From this elevated point a fine view may be 
obtained of the town, port, lazaretto, the Chateau 
d'lf, the broad expanse of the Mediterranean, and 
of a mountainous and rugged line of coast on the 
one hand, and on the other of a semicircle of high 
and barren hills, the lower acclivities of which 
are relieved by verdure, and dotted with the 
numerous villas of the merchants, who, when not 
necessarily engaged in business, retire thither 
from the town, which on Sundays and holidays 
is also comparatively deserted by the poorer 
classes, who resort to the gimigettes, and public 
gardens in the environs, to amuse themselves 
with dancing, the montagnes Russes, and other 
sports. 

Almost all the lower, and many among the 
upper class, are republicans in their politics ; the 
celebrated air, which takes its name from this 
city, having long been the rallying cry of this 
party. A large proportion, however, of the upper 
class of inhabitants are well disposed towards 
monarchy. 



MARSEILLES HIERES. 27 

There is no inducement for the tourist to delay 
his departure from Marseilles, which would be 
an unpleasant residence for any length of time. 
The heat in summer is so great as to keep people 
within doors till the evening. The country is 
generally parched up for want of rain, the roads 
are consequently excessively dusty, and near the 
toAATi are enclosed between high walls. The 
winter is usually very cold, the mistral or northern 
wind frequently prevailing, especially in the 
spring months, at which time the sun has con- 
siderable power, so that not only invalids but 
many persons in health experience the baneful 
influence of the great transitions. Steam-boats 
leave Marseilles almost daily for the various ports 
along the coast. The voyage to Genoa requires 
about twenty hours. The passage by the French 
mails direct across the gulf to Leghorn occupies 
thirty hours. Steam communication with Spain 
is also very frequent. The voyage to Barcelona 
requires about the same time as that to Genoa. 

A drive of about five hours eastward of Mar- 
seilles will bring the traveller to Toulon, where, 
having visited its spacious port and arsenal, there 
will be no occasion for delay. Four miles further 
on lies Hieres, a small town of 10,000 inhabitants, 
built in the form of an amphitheatre on the 
acclivity of a hill, the summit of which is crowned 
with the ruins of a castle, with the remains of 
massive walls on either side. The position of 
Hieres is delightful, amidst vineyards, orange and 



28 HIERES FREJUS. 

lemon-trees interspersed here and there "vvith 
palms ; the surrounding hills being clothed with 
the olive, and other evergreens, and commanding 
an extensive prospect of the Mediterranean. 
Near the coast are the small islands of the 
same name. The interior of the town presents 
nothing attractive, the streets being narrow, 
steep, tortuous, and badly paved. Visitors, how- 
ever, reside in the suburb. Hieres is in great 
measure sheltered from the influence of north 
winds, which are so severely felt in the neigh- 
bouring districts, while it enjoys the clear skies 
and continued dry weather of Provence. It is, 
consequently, frequented by invalids, but it is a 
dull place of sojourn, and labours under the dis- 
advantage of having but a limited space for out- 
door exercise. 

Proceeding eastward, the traveller passes 
through Frejus, where Napoleon landed on his 
return from Egypt and from Elba, crosses the 
Estrelles (part of the chain of maritime Alps), 
where the arbutus, and other evergreens, flourish 
luxuriantly, the air being perfumed by thyme and 
other aromatic plants, and descends to Cannes, 
prettily situate on the bay of the same name. 
This locality likewise presents considerable ad- 
vantages with respect to climate, being sheltered 
from cold winds by the above-named mountains, 
and the country, especially in the neighbourhood 
of Grasse (the great mart for perfumery) is ex- 
ceedingly beautiful. The stranger will likewise 



ILE DE LA CAMARQUE. 29 

be struck with the view of the bay and environs, 
from the ruined fort overlooking the town. The 
island of St. Marguerite, a league from the shore, 
celebrated as the place of confinement of the 
" man with the iron mask," and now containing 
a depot of Algerine captives, forms the most 
prominent feature in the scene. Two or three 
English families have residences in the neigh- 
bourhood, and Mr. W., who enjoys great popu- 
larity, from having given occupation to many of 
the poorer class in embellishing and cultivating 
the grounds formerly in the occupation of Sir H. 
Taylor, is constructing lodging-houses near the 
sea, for the accommodation of visitors, who might 
prefer the comparative quiet of Cannes to the 
movement of Nice, which is about five houi's' 
distant. 

The traveller who is proceeding from Marseilles 
in a western direction may either embark for 
Cette, or go by way of Aries and Nismes, either 
by the rail, or by the canal boats, drawn at the 
rate of about seven miles an hour by the half- 
wild horses of the He de la Camarque, a fiat 
marshy tract of country encloced between two 
branches of the llhone, and from which the sea 
is shut out by embankments. The canal was cut 
by order of Napoleon, for draining the island, 
Avhicli before this period was frequently inundated, 
but wliich has since served for the pasturage of 
horses, sheep, and goats, wliich, on tlie approacli 
of summer, arc driven to tlie mountuuis. Great 



JO 



AELES, 



regularity prevails in the migrations of these 
caravans. The sheep and goats amount to about 
20,000, and are divided into flocks according to 
their strength and age ; the weakest go first to 
enjoy the advantage of cropping the grass before 
it is trodden down. Each flock is preceded by 
large goats with bells. The horses next follow, 
while enormous dogs, of a breed similar to the 
St, Bernard, hover on the outskirts to prevent 
straggling, and to guard against the attacks of 
the wolves, which frequently follow at some 
distance. 

Aries is an irregularly built town on one of 
the embouchures of the Rhone, which is navigable 
for large-sized vessels. It contains about 20,000 
inhabitants, and is alike celebrated for the beauty 
of the women, which is heightened by their pic- 
turesque costume, and for its Eoman remains, of 
which the principal is an amphitheatre in tolerable 
preservation. Adjoining the cathedral are the 
cloisters, of which the gothic arches, supported 
by flnely sculptured pillars, are good specimens 
of architectural skill in the earlier periods of 
Christianity. 

One of the most magnificent remnants of 
Homan antiquity, the Pont du Gard, stands not 
far from the direct road from Avignon to Nismes, 
from which it is five miles distant. This stu- 
pendous erection, stretching across the valley of 
the Garden, which served at the same time for a 
bridge and aqueduct, consists of three rows of 



NIS.MES. 31 

ai'ches, one above the other, in excellent preser- 
vation. When seen from below the effect is very 
striking. This is one of the objects which does 
not disappoint the tourist's expectation. 

Nisnies is a handsome, clean, and cheerful- 
looking town, with a population of about 40,000 
inhabitants, a large proportion of which number 
are Protestants, between whom and the Catholics 
a spirit of hostility exists, which has frequently 
broken out into riots attended with loss of life. 

Nismes is not a place of much commerce, many 
of the inhabitants being rentiers, who are fond of 
amusement. It is, however, little resorted to by 
English families, though house-rent and provisions 
are cheap, and the climate better than that of 
Marseilles on account of its inland position, as 
also from its being in great measure protected 
from the north by the hills rising immediately 
beliind it. It is, however, still too cold and 
exposed to the mistral and veiit de bise to be a 
recommendable locality for persons in weak 
health. The chief streets and boulevards are 
lighted with gas, the cafes are numerous, some 
of them elegantly fitted up. The theatre is 
handsome, and the coi'ps dramatiqiie good. Like 
the Parisians, many of the inhabitants of Nismes 
live a good deal out of doors, and in places of 
public resort. Opposite the theatre is the cele- 
brated maison caree, one of the best preserved 
monuments of the Roman empire. The interior 
is now con\erted into a museum and picture 



32 



NISMES. 



gallery. A little further on, in a large open 
space, which admits of its being seen to advantage, 
stands the amphitheatre, the exterior of which is 
in perfect preservation, but the interior is a good 
deal dilapidated. There were thirty-five rows of 
seats, and upwards of 30,000 spectators could be 
accommodated, being about 10,000 more than 
the amphitheatre of Verona. 

Few towns are so well supplied with public 
promenades as Nismes. Besides the boulevards 
and the extensive esplanade near the theatre, 
there is the Garden of La Fontaine, so termed 
from a large reservoir of water supplied by a 
canal, and in which are several arched recesses, 
said to have served for bathing in the time of 
the Romans. The garden possesses several 
avenues of fine chestnut trees, the intervening 
space being laid out in walks, between parterres 
of shrubs and flowers. It also contains the ruins 
of a temple of Diana, and other remams of anti- 
quity. A winding path is continued up the hill, 
on the summit of which stands an imposing mass 
of brick-work, of a conical shape, termed the 
Tourmagne, being the largest of a chain of towers 
formerly occupying the heights, and connected 
by walls, vestiges of which are still visible in 
many parts. This tower may be seen from a 
considerable distance, and formerly served as a 
station for signals to vessels at sea. 

Pursuing his journey westward, the traveller 
]Dasses through a country of vineyards and olive 



r^roNTrELiER. 33 

plantations, in which stands the town of Lnnel, 
celebrated for its sweet wines, and arrives at 
Montpelier. At the time when little was known 
respecting the climates of the continent, invalids 
W'ere frequently sent from England to Montpelier. 
Many also resorted to it from different parts of 
France, attracted by the reputation of its fine 
climate, and the skill of its physicians. Numbers, 
however, acquired the sad experience that there 
are few localities more prejudicial in cases of 
2^ulmonary disease. Speaking of Montpelier, Mr. 
Matthews observed, " It is difficult to conceive 
how Montpelier ever obtained a name for the 
salubrity of its climate. For pectoral complaints 
it is probably one of the worst in the world. It 
is true there is almost always a clear blue sky, 
but the air is sharp and biting, and you are con- 
stantly assailed by the bise or the marin, and it 
is difficult to say which of these two winds is the 
most annoying. The one brings cold, the other 
damp ; the climates of Europe are but little 
understood in England, nor indeed is it an easy 
thing to ascertain the truth with respect to 
climate. Travellers generally speak from the 
impression of a single season, and we all know 
liow much seasons vary."* Indeed, Nismes would 
liave the advantage over Montpelier as regards 
climate, as it is in some measure sheltered from 
the north, to which Montpelier, lying on the 

* Diary of an Fiivalid. 



34 MONTPELIER. 

acclivity of a hill, is completely exposed. As in 
Provence, the earth during great part of the year 
is parched up for want of rain; in summer the 
heat is oppressive, and the dust lies thick upon 
the ground. The best period for a short residence 
here, or at any of the towns in this part of France, 
is in September, October, or November, though 
at this time the rains sometimes continue for days 
together with but little intermission. To certain 
individuals, however, the climates of Montpelier 
and Marseilles would not be unsuitable, as in 
those labouring under some kinds of asthma, or 
bronchial relaxation, without a tendency to 
inflammation. Some dyspeptic and rheumatic 
invalids would likewise find themselves benefited 
by this kind of climate, which, however, may be 
also met with in some of the towns of Italy, which 
present more agremens for a winter residence, 
without the inconveniences of Provence. 

Montpelier is the seat of one of the three 
Faculties of Medicine in France, the other two 
being at Paris and Strasbourg; but its reputation 
as a medical school is not so great as formerly. 
The town is not handsome; its streets are mostly 
narrow and badly paved; the number of inha- 
bitants exceeds thirty thousand. The celebrated 
Promenade de Peyrou, at the most elevated part, 
commands an extensive view of the surrounding 
country, and of the olive-clad hills in the distance, 
among which numerous white villas are inter- 
spersed, and is embellished with an equestrian 



CETTE. 35 

statue of Louis XIV., as also with a fountain 
supplied by a modern aqueduct of considerable 
extent. There is another much frequented pro- 
menade, the Esplanade, at the opposite extremity 
of the town. The objects principally worth 
■\dsiting are, the Miisee Fahre (a collection of 
pictures presented to his native toAvn by the 
individual whose name it bears, among which are 
a few by first-rate Italian masters), the cathedral, 
and the school of medicine. But few English 
reside at Montpelier. liouse-rent and provisions 
are cheap, though poultry, eggs, and butter are 
very scarce, as also thi'oughout Provence, on 
account of the deficiency of pasturage and grain 
in the country. These articles are consequently 
brought from other parts, principally from 
Toulouse. 

Cette is a town of considerable importance in 
a commercial point of view, from the constant 
transmission of merchandise and produce by 
means of the Canal du Midi, between Bordeaux, 
Toulouse, and Marseilles. There are also manu- 
factories of claret, champagne, port, and other 
wines, which supply Italy, and most of the towns 
along the Mediterranean. A steamer leaves e-very 
morning to cross the salt water lake of Thau (a 
distance of eight miles), into which the Canal du 
Midi opens, the passengers and goods being then 
transferred to the canal boats. At tlie extremity 
of the lake, opposite to Cette, are the baths of 
Balaruc, which are a good deal frequented in the 



36 THE CANAL DU MIDI. 

season, chiefly by persons from Montpelier, 
Toulouse, and other parts of the south. There 
is only the establishment, and one or tivo other 
houses, where visitors could be accommodated. 
The springs are saline, containing principally 
muriate of soda, and a little gas. They have a 
high reputation in rheumatic, and especially in 
paralytic cases. 

The Canal du Midi, by which water communi- 
cation of the two seas is effected, though projected 
during the reigns of several of the French kings, 
was commenced and finished under Louis XIV. 
It is not, however, so available as it might be if 
the Garonne, near Toulouse, were deeper, so as 
to be navigable at all times. There are eighteen 
locks on the Atlantic side, and forty-six betAveen 
Toulouse and the Lake of Thau. The banks 
are for the most part protected from the action of 
the water by rushes planted for the purpose. 
Hills are in several places pierced to admit its 
passage. One of these grottoes, termed Mal-pas, 
is 170 metres long, 25 feet wide, and 22 high, 
the sides and roof being built up with masonry. 
It is crossed by more than 100 bridges, and passes 
beneath 55 bridge aqueducts. The boats are. 
drawn by horses, and, on account of the delays at 
the numerous locks, thirty-six hours are required 
to perform the journey from Cette to Toulouse, 
so that the diligence through Beziers is much 
more expeditious. When the railroad is com- 
pleted, the transit of the canal will doubtless be 



THE CANAL DU MIDI. 37 

altogether superseded. The country through 
Avhich the canal passes no longer presents tlie 
aridity of Provence, but is rich, fertile, and in 
many parts highly picturesque. At Carcasonne, 
the snow-tipped summits of the highest of the 
Pyrenees rise upon the view, and on approaching 
Toulouse, the whole range becomes more dis- 
tinctly visible. 



CHAPTER III. 

TOULOUSE-PTRENEAN BATHS— BAGNERES DE LUCHON-BAGNEKES DE 

BIQORRE— LOURDES— VALE OF ARGELES-THE CAGOTS-BAREGES — 

ST. SAUVEUR-GAVARNIE-CAUTERETS, AND ITS 

MINERAL SPRINGS. 

Toulouse, the ancient city of song and trouba- 
dour, is said to have existed before the foundation 
of Eome. It lies in a beautiful and fertile plain 
on the right bank of the Garonne, crossed by a 
handsome bridge of brick. The population 
amounts to sixty thousand. The streets are nar- 
row, thronged, and noisy; several of the shops 
and cafes are handsome, and decorated in a showy 
manner. There are two or three fine squares, 
the Place Lafaj^ette and especially the Place du 
Capitole, one side of which is entirely taken up 
by the Hotel de Ville ; on the first floor of this 
building is a large hall, t?ie Salle des Illustres 
Toulonnois, containing busts in terra cotta of the 
many celebrated characters born at Toulouse from 
the time of the Eomans to the present. Here 
are held the meetings of the Academy of the 
Floral games, which awards prizes to the best 
compositions in poetry. The annual meeting and 
distribution of the prizes take place in May. In 
an adjoining apartment is the statue of Clemence 
Isaure, the founder and patroness of these games. 



TOULOUSE. 39 

who lived in the beginning of the fourteenth cen- 
tury. Toulouse possesses two theatres, several 
public libraries, reading-rooms, and scientific so- 
cieties. The people are in general affable, fond 
of pleasure, and live a good deal out of doors. 
House-rent and living are cheap. The \\dnter 
climate is generally mild, without the dryness of 
Provence, or the humidity which prevails on ap- 
proaching nearer Bordeaux. Cold winds are, 
however, sometimes severely felt. The west wind, 
sweeping over the Atlantic, is laden with moisture, 
and is extremely tr}ing to invalids. Rain not 
unfrequently falls, the weather being variable 
from day to day. In the autumnal months the 
weather is generally fine till Christmas. In spring, 
cold and damp winds are prevalent, frequently 
alternating with rain. The environs are exceed- 
ingly productive in fruit and grain ; and the 
flower and fruit market, which is held in the 
Place du Capitole, is scarcely to be equalled 
elsewhere. One of the most frequented walks 
leads to the column lately erected on an eminence 
at some distance from the town, to the memory 
of the soldiers of the French army who fell in 
the battle in 1814. On it is the inscription, ''Au.v 
braves morts 2'>our la jyatn'e, Toulouse reconnois- 
santey From this spot a good view may be 
obtained of tlie to^vn, and of the positions occupied 
by the respective armies. 

The Garonne is only navigable at Toulouse for 
small boats; so that travellers proceeding to Bor- 



40 BAGNERES DE LUCHOX. 

deaux usually go by land to Agen (a drive of ten 
hours), and there take the steam-boat. Those 
who dh^ect then' course towards the celebrated 
mmeral springs of the Pp'enees traverse a beau- 
tiful and cultivated country, interspersed with 
numerous villages and hamlets, to St. Gaudens, 
where they arrive in about eighteen hours. From 
this point two roads diverge. By following the 
one to the left, you enter a valley, which becomes 
narrower and less cultivated as you advance, and 
after a four hours' drive find yourself at Bagneres 
de Luchon, which is situate immediately " sotto i 
gran monti Pirenei,'' in a valley of the brightest 
verdure, watered by the Pique and other streams,, 
and above which the Maladetta, the highest 
mountain of the range, raises its snow-capped 
peak. The town contains a population of two 
thousand inhabitants, and is built in the form of 
a triangle : each apex terminating in an avenue 
of trees. The lime avenue leads to the bath esta- 
blishment, which (like other French baths, is 
under the superintendence of government,) hes 
at the foot of a hill, whence the w^ater issues, 
and passes immediately into the baths. The 
springs are hot and strongly sulphurous, and are 
among the most efficacious in the diseases for 
which this class of mineral waters is indicated. 
Their temperature varies from 26 to 52 degrees R. 
The environs of Bagneres de Luchon are highly 
romantic, and contain many interesting points, to 
which agreeable excursions may be made. The 



BAGXERES DE LUCIIOX. 41 

lakes of Oo and Seciilejo are among the spots 
most frequently visited ; and the lover of solitude, 
aaIio deKghts to 

" Slowly trace the forest's shady scene, 
Where things which own not man's dominion dwell, 
And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been," 

may find ample scope for the indulgence of his 
taste ; but, notwithstanding its scenic beauties, 
and the efficacy of its waters, Bagneres would 
not be an attractive summer residence to most 
English visitors, unless fond of seclusion, as the 
French, when mix emuv, associate very little with 
those whom they have not previously known. 
There aj.-e no public reunions ; the accommoda- 
tions in most of the French baths are very inferior 
to those of the German. Each family is serAcd 
with dinners from a traiteur's: there are few tables 
d'kofe, and those only at the larger baths, for the 
accommodation of travellers. With the excep- 
tion of two or three places, living is not dear at 
the Pyrenean baths; persons, for instance, may 
be boarded and lodged during the season at Bag- 
neres de Luchon or Bagneres de Bigorre for five 
or six francs a-day. Both England and Germany 
are, however, deficient in hot sulphur springs; 
and in cases where they are indicated, there are 
none in Europe (Aixla Chapelle perhaps excepted) 
which arc so efficacious as those of the western 
Pyrenees ; but as I have more especially referred 
to their medical properties in another work, 1 



42 PYRENEAN BATHS. 

need not again enter into their consideration in 
this place. 

A path, or mule-track, leads across the moun- 
tain, by Arreau, to Bagneres de Bigorre, through 
some of the finest scenery of the Pyrenees ; the 
road passes round by Montrejeau, and ascends 
the valley of the Adour, in which this town lies, 
being sometimes called Bagneres-Adour. The 
country between Montrejeau and Bagneres is a 
succession of ascents and descents, and the scenery 
is beautiful and diversified. 

The town looks well from the hills. The white 
and yellow painted houses, Avith their slated roofs; 
the bright verdure of the valley; the deeper hue 
of the pine forests on the acclivities of the moim- 
tains, the summits of which are imbedded in 
perpetual snow; form a series of beautiful and 
striking contrasts ; while the clear waters of the 
Adour and other streams diffusing fertility around, 

" Sempre I'erbe vi fan tenere e nove, 
E rendean ad ascoltar dolce concento, 
Rotto fra picciol sassi, il correr lento." 

Beyond the town the picturesque valley of Cam- 
pan — the beauties of which, however, have been 
rather exaggerated by writers and poets — extends 
to the foot of the Tourmalet, on the opposite side 
of which are Bareges and the vale of Luz. 

Bagneres de Bigorre lies near the foot of the 
Pic chi3Iidi, and is the largest and most frequented 
of the Pyrenean watering-places; a great propor- 



BAGNERES DE BIGOKRE. 43 

tion of the visitors remaining more for pleasure 
than for health. The number of English is at 
times not inconsiderable from Pau or other places 
in tlie south of France, or Italy. Many persons 
likcAvise pass some time at Bagneres, after having 
taken a coiu'se of one or other of the springs in 
this part of the country. It stand seventeen hun- 
dred feet above the level of the sea ; is encircled 
on all sides but the north by green hills and pine- 
covered mountains, and is consequently one of 
the coolest summer residences in the Pyrenees. 
The resident population amounts to eight or ten 
thousand, and the resoui'ces for amusement are 
greater than at the other baths. Bagneres was 
a great place of resort in the time of the Romans, 
by whom it was termed Viciis aquensis. There 
are numerous well-shaded walks and roads in tlie 
immediate environs ; those which are most fre- 
quented are the Allees Boui'bon, the garden Theas, 
and the vaUey of Campan. This part of the 
Pyrenees produces some beautiful kinds of varie- 
gated marble, and near the town is a marhricre^ 
where it is worked into tables, statues, and other 
articles of gout, which are exported. This mar- 
ble is, however, much softer than that of Italy, 
and does not bear exposure to the open air. 

The bathing establishments are numerous; the 
principal one, belonging to government, termed 
the Thermes de Marie Therese, is an elegant struc- 
ture of white stone, the interior of the bathing 
cabinets being composed of different coloured 



44 BAGNERES DE BIGORRE. 

marble. The baths are thirty-six in number, and 
are exceedingly convenient, each having a dress- 
ing room attached to it; over the door is inscribed 
the name of the spring from which it is supplied. 
Those of La Heine, which is the hottest, and the 
Dauphin^ are most used. There is likewise every 
requisite apparatus for douche and vapour baths. 
As the water is too hot to be used at its natural 
temperature, it collects into large reservoirs at 
the back of the establishment, where it is cooled. 

Frascati's is another bathing establishment, and 
also a lodging-house, which contains the public 
rooms for balls, billiards, and the newspapers. A 
single person may board and lodge here for about 
six francs a day. Other lodgmg and bathing- 
houses are supplied by particular springs, as the 
Pinac, Lannes, Petit Prieur, Sante, Sec. 

All these sjjrings are saline, and in their com- 
position are not unlike those of Baden-Baden, or 
Bath, though they contain much less saline sub- 
stance. Their temperature ranges from 21 to 
35 degrees H. There is at Bagneres an hospital 
for the military and poor persons to whose cases 
the springs are considered applicable. 

On ascending the valley by a road bordered 
with poplar trees, for about a mile and a half, 
you arrive at another bathing establishment in a 
secluded spot, at the foot of a steep hill, whence 
arise the springs from which it takes its name — 
Salut. There are here ten baths, into which the 
water keeps constantly flowing from a marble 



BAGNEKES DE BIGORRE. 4'"j 

mouth, SO that the baths are taken at the natui-al 
temperature, and they are m great request from 
five in the morning till three in the afternoon. 
As there are no apartments for lodging in the 
builcUng, the bathers must come each time from 
the town on foot, in a carriage or chaise a porteur. 
This is among the least mineralized of the springs, 
the solid substance being scarcely more than a 
grain or two to a pint of water. It is mostly 
employed by delicate persons and nervous 
laches. 

On the hill at the entrance of the town from 
Tarbes, a chalybeate spring rises from the rock, 
and is drank by some invalids, though, as it is but 
slightly impregnated with iron, and scarcely con- 
tains any gas, it would not be of great service in 
cases where chalybeates are indicated. From tliis 
spot may be obtained a good ^dcw of the town 
and valley, the Pic du Midi, and other mountains, 
and of the course of the Adour; the ensemble 
forming one of the most picturesque scenes that 
can be conceived, 

Tarbes, formerly the capital of the Bigorre, is a 
pretty little town, situate in a plain at the entrance 
of the valleys, and forms a central point, where 
the roads meet from Bagneres, Toulouse, C'au- 
terets, and Pau. From the Prado, or pubhc wallv, 
and also from the balcony of the principal ]iotel, 
may be enjoyed the prospect of a considerable 
extent of fertile country, terminated by the 

" Long-waving line of the l)lue Pyrenees," 



46 LOURDES VALE OF ARGELES. 

the whole range, and the relative attitude of the 
most celebrated pics^ being distinctly visible. 

From this town the traveller who purposes 
visiting the baths of Bareges or Cauterets, after 
traversing a pretty undulating country, arrives at 
Lourdes, which occupies a situation strikingly 
beautiful and picturesque, at the entrance of the 
valley, being surrounded by green hills — on the 
lower acclivities of which the vine is cultivated — 
meadows and fields of maize, through which flows 
the Gave de Pau. It is overlooked by the ruins 
of the castle, of which a tower constructed by the 
Romans is still in tolerable preservation. 

On quitting Lourdes, you enter among the 
wild scenery of a defile, where at several parts 
the rocks approximate so closely to each other as 
scarcely to allow space for the passage of the 
Gave. 

" The mountains closing — and the road, the river 
Filling the narrow pass." 

A little further on, the valley of Argeles lies 
before you, realizing all that one can conceive of 
pastoral beauty — flocks grazing in meadows of 
the brightest green, planted with mulberry and 
fig trees — vineyards on the side of the hills, the 
rocky summits of which are ever and anon 
crowned with a ruin ; neat villages placed at 
short intervals, and the little town of Argeles, 
through which the road passes, form altogether a 
most enchanting picture, w^hich strikingly con- 



THE CAGOTS 47 

trasts with the sterile and snow-capped mountains 
by which it is enclosed. This valley is eight 
miles in length and three in breadth. Many of 
the inhabitants on the left of the river, where 
the ventilation is not so free, are aifected mth 
goitres ; and Cagots (who are identical with the 
Cretins of some Alpine districts, but w^ho have 
now nearly disappeared) were formerly very com- 
mon.* At Pierrefitte, a road branches off to the 
right, leading to Cauterets; that on the left leads 
to Luz, St. Sauveur, and Bareges, immediately 
ascending between lofty and precipitous pine- 

* The Cagots are found in several of the more secluded valleys of the 
Pyrenees, particularly in the lateral valleys that branch from the valley 
of Bareges, Luchon, and Aure. So sedulously do the Cagots keep apart 
from the rest of their- fellow men, that one might travel through the 
Pyrenees without seing an individual of the race, unless enquiry were 
specially directed towards them. The Cagot is known by his sallow and 
imhealtliy countenance, his expression of stupielily, his want of vigoui", 
and relaxed appearance, his imperfect articulation, and in many cases his 
disposition to goitres. From time immemorial tlie Cagot fomilies have 
inhabited the most retired villages and the most miserable habitations. 
The race has always been regarded as infamous, and the individuals of it 
as outcasts from the family of mankind. They arc excluded from all riglits 
of citizens; they were not permitted to have arms, nor to exercise any 
other trade than that of wood-cutters. And in more remote times they 
were obliged to bear upon their breasts a red mark, the sign of their 
degradation ; so far, indeed, was the aversion to this unfortunate people 
carried, that they entered the churches by a separate door, and occupied 
seats allotted to the rejected caste. The persecutions have long ceased, 
and time and its attendant improvements have diminished the prejudices, 
and weakened the feelings of aversion with which they were formerly 
regarded. But they arc still the race of Cagots ; still a separate family ; 
still outcasts ; still a people who are evidently no kindred of those who 
live around them ; but the remnant of a diflerent and more ancient family." 
— Jiiglis, Snnf/t nf Frnvcc and the Pi/rfinees. 



48 BAREGES. 

covered mountains, separated by the river oy gave, 
which rushes with impetuosity beneath, and is 
crossed by bridges no less than eight times in the 
space of three leagues, according as either side 
offered greater facility for the construction of the 
road, which for the greatest part of the distance 
is cut out of the mountain's side. In about two 
hours the highest point of the pass is attained, 
whence there is a gradual descent to the riant 
plain of Luz, surrounded by mountains in the 
form of an amphitheatre. This part has been 
compared by Ramond with the valley of the 
Reuss, in Switzerland, and there are certainly 
few scenes in Europe where the beautiful, the 
picturesque, and the sublime, are so perfectly 
combined. 

Bareges is about an hour's ride from Luz, by 
a continued ascent. The road all the way from 
Pierreiittewas constructed by the engineer Polard, 
of whose abilities it remains a standing monu- 
ment; the difficulties he had to encounter havmg 
appeared to others to be insurmountable. Some 
parts between Luz and Bareges are very steep, and 
are not unfrequently carried away by the torrent or 
by avalanches. As you ascend, the gorge narrows, 
vegetation becomes more scanty and disappears, 
though here and there, high up on the moun- 
tains, patches of land are still cultivated by the 
peasantry. On approaching Bareges, however, 
the desolation appears to be complete; not a tree 
is to be seen, and huge masses of stone, brought 



BAREGES. 49 

doAvn by the aviilanches, lie scattered about in 
all directions. The road extends no further tlian 
Bareges, there being merely a path across the 
Tourmalet to Bagneres de Bigorre. In fact, no 
spot would seem to be less calcidated for the 
situation of a bath than Bareges, Avhich consists 
of a single street on the acclivity of the moun- 
tain, ^vith the impetuous Gave de Bastan foaming 
beneath. For nine months in the year the place 
is deserted, being left in the keeping of about 
twenty men, who pass the winter there to prevent 
its being occupied by the wolves, which not un- 
frequently take up their abode in the houses. As 
it frequently happens that the winter occu23ants 
are completely shut out from any intercourse with 
the valley by the snow, they are obliged to lay in 
a stock of provisions and fuel for three or four 
months, and on the return of fine weather, assisted 
by others fiom below, begin to clear the road, 
and ascertain the damage that has been effected; 
as many of the houses are every year carried 
away by the torrent, or overwhelmed by the 
avalanches. At the time of my visit, in May, 
numerous workmen were employed in digging 
away the snow beneath which several houses 
were buried, and in getting the place a little in 
order for the season, which begins about the 
middle of June^ from which period till September 
it is crowded with invalids, who certainly would 
riot resort tliither for pleasure, or unless they had 
learned from experience the efficacy of its mineral 

E 



50 BAREGES. 

springs. Thus every year is practically contra- 
dicted the opinion of those who, knowing little 
of the power of these agents, consider that the 
benefit which persons derive from a visit to a 
mineral spring is attributable to the accessory 
circumstances, as change of air, the agremens of 
the place, the beauties of scenery, &c. These 
have, no doubt, considerable influence on many 
slight ailments, but would have very little in 
such cases as are usually sent to Bareges. 

In the centre of the street is a small square, 
on one side of which are the baths, on the other 
a military hospital, supported by government, for 
wounded soldiers, the number of which amounts 
to about four hundred, that of the visitors being 
about eight hundred, or a thousand, almost all 
of them invalids, and many who are not able to 
walk, or hardly to get about on crutches. There 
is only one table d'hote, and each party is served 
separately from a traiteur's; nor is there any 
society, and, as may be supposed, the climate is 
bad enough, so that existence in the place for 
several successive weeks would be unbearable, 
were it not for the benefit anticipated and ex- 
perienced from the springs. In the bathing- 
establishment there are sixteen private baths; 
but most of the patients bathe in the piscinae or 
public basins. Douches are a good deal used, the 
water falling from a height of five or six feet 
from reservoirs through tubes about as thick as 
a man's forearm. The piscina for the hospital 



BAREGES. 51 

patients — but in which several visitors like^visc 
bathe — is an oblong vaulted chamber with 
stone walls ; the water is about tliree feet deep, 
and flows into the bath through a wooden 
trough, beneath which those who require the 
douche hold the aff"ected part. About sixteen 
persons can bathe at the same time. The springs 
la Douche^ la Temperee, and Polard, are the 
most used ; the temperature of the former is 
44 degrees, that of the second 33 degrees, E-., 
and about 30 degrees in the piscinse, which are 
badly ventilated, and fiUed -with vapour, Avhich 
induces copious perspiration. There is likewise 
a piscina for indigent patients. The average 
number of baths required by patients is from 
thirty to forty. Though the springs are almost 
exclusively used for bathing, there is one drinking 
spring. They are strongly sulphurous, and more 
energetic in their action than any others in the 
Pp'enees, but they do not emit so disagreeable a 
smell as others of the same class, which contain 
a large proportion of sulphuretted hydrogen, as 
in these the sulphur exists principally in the form 
of sulphuret of soda. The cases in which they are 
most efficacious are scrofulous diseases of joints 
and other enlargements, rheumatic and paralytic 
nffoctions, old ulcers and wounds, especially when 
there are foreign substances, as bullets, pieces of 
clothing, &c., lodged in the body (the expidsion 
of which not unfrec(nently takes place during the 
course), and some eruptions on the skin. 



52 ST. SxlUVEUR. 

St. Saiiveur lies on the side of tlie mountain 
immediately opposite to Luz, from which it is 
not more than half a mile distant. It is built on 
the edge of a wide and deep ravine, the sides of 
which are clothed with brushwood, and between 
which the Gave makes its way with impetuosity 
three hundred feet below. A neat stone bridge 
has within the last few years been constructed 
across the ravine, whence a winding road leads 
up to the bath. At the widest part of the 
street stands, on the one side, the church ; on the 
other, immediately overlooking the ravine, is the 
handsome bathing establishment, with sixteen 
cabinets, and a drinking fountain. There are 
two springs, or rather one spring ha\ang two out- 
lets ; the temperature being twenty-eight and 
thirty-three degrees. It is much less sulphurous 
than that of Bareges, and is sometimes recom- 
mended preparatory to the stronger springs, but 
is more particularly applicable to nervous affec- 
tions and other cases peculiar to ladies. Not 
more than from two to three hundred persons 
can be accommodated at the same time ; the 
want of room, consequently, renders living and 
lodgings dearer than at most of the other baths. 
There is little or no general society, and yet there 
are few places where those who delight in the 
beauties of scenery, and in a romantic country, 
could pass a few weeks in the summer more to 
their satisfaction. Tractable and well-conditioned 
mountain ponies are here, as at the other baths 



GAVARME. 53 

of the Pyrenees, always at the visitor's com- 
mand. 

The most frequented of the excursions in the 
environs, which no visitor who is able omits to 
make, is the celebrated cascade of Gavarnie, and 
the Cirque de Marbore, to which, however, there 
is merely a horse road. After crossing the ravine 
at St. Sauveiu', you enter a defile between steep 
and sombre mountains, the sides of ^vhich are 
plentifidly covered with brushw^ood, their summits 
clothed -svith pine trees, and Avhich, separated at 
their base by the torrent, gradually recede from 
each other in proportion as they become higher, 
the path being cut sometimes on one side, some- 
times on the other. While standing on the first 
bridge, a considerable height above the foaming 
torrent, I was strongly reminded of the similarity 
of the scenery to that of some of the finest parts 
of the Via INIala in the Grisons. Several water- 
falls — which are rare in the Pyrenees — add to the 
interest of the ride. In about another hour you 
emerge from the defile upon the beautiful valley 
of Pragneres, which, with the numerous cottages 
and cJialets on the sides of the hills, its flocks of 
sheep and goats tended by peasant girls, its cul- 
tivated fields and meadows, where 

" riowors fresh in liiio, ami many in their dyes. 
Implore the pausing stop," 

strongly contrasts with tlu^ wild scenery whicl> 
you have just quilted, and are again about to 



54 GAVARNIE. 

behold. Beyond the village of Gedro, the moun- 
tains again approach close to each other ; vegeta- 
tion becomes more and more scanty, and at last 
disappears altogether. You now enter upon the 
district aptly termed Chaos, where desolation 
reigns supreme, which is heightened by enormous 
masses of rock (several being as large as a good 
sized house), scattered about pell-mell, one above 
another, for a considerable distance, the jiath 
winding between them, and being frequently 
hidden from the view. The bed of the Gave 
being also completely encumbered, the water is 
turned from its course, and, flowing over these 
masses, falls in numerous cascades, which add 
greatly to the interest of the scene. 

How and when the mountain fell which occa- 
sioned this devastation is unknown, though tradi- 
tions are not wanting respecting the occurrence. 

Altogether the scene is of such an interesting 
and peculiar kind, that it must be seen to be 
appreciated. On approaching Gavarnie, the coun- 
try has the same wild and sombre aspect, several 
mountain pics are constantly visible, and, at one 
part of the road, a view is obtained of the cirque; 
as also, at an elevation of some thousands of feet, of 
the perpendicular rocky barrier separating France 
from Spain, with the cleft-like aperture, which, 
however, is three hundred feet wide, termed the 
Breche de Roland, ixoxn. the tradition that ihi^preux 
chevalier made the said breach with his good 
sword. 



CAUTERETS. OO 

From Gavarnie the cirque is seen to great 
advantage, and appears to be quite close ; but an 
hour's ride is still required before you find your- 
self at its entrance. Description would be totally 
inadequate to give a correct idea of this wonder 
of nature (even if lengthened description were 
here admissible), I shall, therefore, merely content 
myself with stating that this celebrated circle is 
an almost perpendicular wall of yellowish rock, 
having the appearance of marble, some hun- 
dreds of feet high, extending in a semicu'cular 
form, so as to enclose an area of four miles. 
In the centre are several ridges, rising one 
above another, over which a sheet of water 
falls, forming the cascade (though at the time of 
my visit it was frozen, presenting the appearance 
of extensive sheets of snow). 

Those desirous of ascending to the Brechc 
de Roland, and passing through it into S[);dn, 
may find trusty guides at the village of Ga- 
varnie. 

A wide and well-constructed road leads by a 
gradual ascent from Pierrefitte, at the extremity 
of the vale of Argelcs, to Cautcrets, passing at 
first through a beautifully- wooded dell, betwec^i 
lofty pine-covered mountains, and afterwards 
through a more wild and sterile district, with 
scarcely any signs of cultivation. 

This celebral(Ml watering ])l;ice lies in the 
•secluded valley of Lavedaii, surrounded by scenery 
of the jnost romantic kind. It chiefly consists in 



56 CAUTERETS. 

a single street, which widens out into a square. 
The resident population amounts to about fifteen 
hundred, and two thousand visitors could be 
accommodated in the season, during which 
period it is generally thronged, especially by the 
Parisians, with whom it is a favourite summer 
retreat. Apartments are, consequently, often 
exceedingly difficult to be obtained, and are 
mostly very dear. In the square is the Hotel du 
Cercle, where there are public rooms for reunions, 
but there is little general association among the 
visitors, so that a stranger who does not possess 
resources within himself would, notwithstanding 
the magnificence of the scenery, find Cauterets 
but a dull residence. There are two or three 
tables d'hote, but they are not well attended. 
Cauterets has not the advantage of shaded walks 
(the only rows of trees being in an enclosure 
behind the town, which serves for a promenade), 
and, from its being surrounded by lofty peaked 
mountains, the summits of which are covered 
with perpetual snow, the reflection of the sun's 
rays must be, at times, severely felt, notwith- 
standing its elevated position ; and what must be 
a great inconvenience to invalids, the bathing 
establishments, with one exception, are out of the 
town, some of them being at a distance of more 
than two miles. 

The season lasts from June to September, before 
and after which periods poor persons are allowed 
to use the baths on payment of a trifling sum. 



CAUTERETS. O < 

(two or tlirce sous each bath). Beyond the town 
a gradual ascent of the valley leads to the prin- 
cipal establishment — la Railliere — a handsome 
isolated edifice, with a central vestibule, drinking 
fountain, and bathing cabinets, furnished with 
marble baignoires and douche apparatus, on either 
side. Some distance beyond this are the springs 
clu Pre^ petit St. Sauveur, and du Bois ; the latter 
being perched high up on the mountain's side. 
The baths in these establishments are dark and 
dirty-looking ; there is also in this direction the 
spring Mahourat, which is only used for drinking. 
These springs lie about a league from the town, 
amidst scenery of the most magnificent descrip- 
tion, and at the junction of two foaming torrents, 
which, obstructed by large masses of rock de- 
tached from the mountains, form numerous cas- 
cades. From hence the road to the right conducts 
to the Lac de Gaube and the Pont d'Espagne 
(the latter being a narrow bridge, thrown across 
the torrent from one rock to another), wliich 
are the objects best w^orth visiting in the envi- 
rons. 

The temperature of the springs varies from 2 1 
to 40 degrees, R. The composition of the water 
is very analogous to that of other springs in this 
part of the Pyrenees, containing principally sul- 
phuret of sodium, carbonate, sulpliate, and muriate 
of soda, with carbonic acid and azotic gases in 
small quantities. The Railliere is tlu^ spring 
mostly used for drinking ; it has a liigh re]iuta- 



58 CAUTERETS. 

tion in pulmonary and nervous affections, and in 
dyspeptic cases. 

Besides these springs, however, there are others 
in a different direction, which are much more 
sulphurous than the southern group, and are 
chiefly used for baths. These are termed Bruzaud, 
situate at the foot of the hill close to the town ; 
Cesar, high up on the same hill ; la Reine, near 
the former, and des Espagnols. Patients who 
cannot walk to the baths are carried in chaises 
a iWTte%v)\ the price of which is very low, and 
which are indispensable in protecting susceptible 
invalids from the transitions of temperature, 
which are at times very great and sudden. 

The number of the springs enables the prac- 
titioner the better to adapt them to individual 
cases and peculiarities. 

Though the composition of some of these 
Pyrenean springs be not materially different, 
yet they differ considerably in the important cir- 
cumstances of temperature and locality, and 
certain of them have acquired a special reputa- 
tion in particular complaints. Thus, Bareges is 
recommended, 'par excellence^ in cases of old 
wounds, ulcers, or long standing affection of the 
bones ; Bagneres de Luchon, in gouty, rheumatic, 
and cutaneous diseases; St. Sauveur in nervous 
complaints, and some local affections to which 
women are subject ; while Cauterets, from the 
number of its springs, and the difference of their 
temperature, can be adapted to most of the 



CAUTERETS. 59 

above-moiitioncd indications. The greater num- 
ber of patients are perliaps those hihouring under 
the various forms of indigestion, and puhnonary 
complaints, or a tendency to consumption. The 
number of those with rheumatic and cutaneous 
diseases is likewise considerable. 



CHAPTER IV. 



PAU AND ITS CLIMATE— EAUX BONNES AND CHAUDES-INHABITANTS OF 
THE PYRENEES-THE LANDES-BOKDEAUX AND ITS CLIMATE— TOURS. 



Having enjoyed the gratification of visiting 
the baths of Bareges, St. Sauveur, and Cauterets, 
with the highly interesting scenery in their 
neighbourhood, the tourist who is disinchned to 
excursions among the mountains, or to passing 
into Spain, must retrace his steps by the valley 
of Argeles to Lourdes ; whence the drive to Pau 
presents a difi'erent character of scenery. The 
road is continued for some distance on the bank 
of the Gave de Pau, here already a river of con- 
siderable size, and traverses a smiling country of 
pasture land, corn-fields, and prettily-wooded hills, 
which seems to be the abode of fertility and con- 
tentment. 

A little before arriving at Estelle, the depart- 
ment of the High Pyrenees terminates, and you 
enter that of the Low Pyrenees, where the coun- 
try increases in beauty, resembling a rich garden, 
and producing a variety of fruit, Indian corn, and 
grain ; the vines hanging in festoons between the 
trees, as in Italy. 

Numerous country-houses and detached cottages 



y.£M"^' ■'! 



■-'!:J|iJ|,| 




iiiiB"'!,;ji, 



PAU. 61 

are seen on approaching Pau, which is situate on 
an elevated plain in the richest part of the district 
of Beam, of which it was formerly the capital. 
It contains a population of tAvelve thousand in- 
habitants ; is a clean and cheerful looking town, 
and has greatly increased in size within the last 
few years, which is partly attributable to the 
number of English residents, and of the visitors 
who resort thither on the approach of -winter. 

In fact, Pau offers many inducements to families 
and invalids to select it for a winter residence. 
Its j30sition is in the highest degree beautiful ; 
the houses and its accommodations are good, 
though the proprietors are somewhat exigeans. 
Provisions of all kinds are abundant, and the 
climate is better than that of any other to-wn in 
the south of France. It is humid as compared 
with that of Provence, but drier than other 
towns in the south-west, on account of its more 
elevated position, and from the gravelly nature of 
its soil. Sir J. Clark says, in reference to it, in 
his work on Climate — " Calmness is a striking 
character of the climate, high winds being of rare 
occurrence, and of short duration. The mean 
annual temperature is four and a-half degrees 
higher than that of London ; five lower than that 
of jMarseilles, Nice, and Rome. In winter it is 
two degrees warmer than London ; three colder 
than Penzance ; six colder than Nice and Rome, 
and eighteen colder than Madeira ; but in spring 
Pau is six degrees ^^■armer than London, and only 



62 PAU. 

two and a-half colder than Marseilles and Rome. 
The daily range of temperature at Pan is seven 
and a-half degrees, at Nice eight and a-half, at 
Home eleven. The number of days on which 
rain falls on an average is 109, nearly the same 
as at Rome, and about 70 less than at London ; 
the west wind blowing directly from the Atlantic 
is accompanied with rain. The wind from the 
north-west, and from this point to the north-east, 
brings dry cold weather ; Avhile that from the 
north-east to the south is usually attended with 
clear mild weather ; south and south-west winds 
are warm and oppressive. The westerly or 
Atlantic are most prevalent. The north wind 
blows feebly, and is not frequent. Rain seldom 
continues for more than two days at a time, and 
the ground dries rapidly; the atmosphere generally 
speaking is free from moisture." Sir James fur- 
ther states that " the circumstances which render 
Pan eligible for some invalids are, that the 
atmosphere, when it does not rain, is dry and the 
weather fine ; there are neither fogs nor cold 
piercing winds, and the mildness of the spring is 
characteristic, and is consequently favourable in 
chronic afi'ections of the larynx, trachea, and 
bronchia. In gastritic dyspepsia, and some kinds 
of asthma, it is also beneficial ; but is prejudicial 
in bronchial disease, accompanied with much 
general relaxation, copious expectoration, and 
dyspnoea. It is too changeable for consumptive 
diseases." Some gouty patients would also derive 



PAU 63 

advantage from wintering at Pan, especially after 
a course of mineral baths in the summer.* 

The town consists chiefly of a long street badly 
paved, whence others diverge, leading, on the one 
hand, to the Place Royale, an esplanade planted 
with trees, and commanding a delightful prospect ; 
and on the other, to the Place de la Concorde, a 
spacious square of modern houses built on arcades, 
with shops on the ground floor ; the upper part 
of many of them being let to strangers. At the 
extremity of the principal street is the old chateau 
of Henri IV., which, with its antique towers, 
when seen from a distance, forms a picturesque 
object in the view. In the court-yard are the 
heads in has relief of some of the ancient princes 
of Beam. At the entrance is a statue of the 
king, 

" Qui fat dc ses sujets le vainqueur et Ic pere," 

which shows him to have been of very diminutive 
stature. In the interior is exhibited the cradle 
of the king, formed of a tortoise-shell. From 
the summit of the chief tower a splendid panorama 
is displayed of a highly-cultivated and richly- 
wooded country, dotted over with chateaux and 

* Dr. Taylor, a resident pliysician, contrasts Pan with Nice as tlic 
extremes of continental climates frequented by English invalids. He says, 
" Langour, disinclination to exertion, and a sense of fullness in the head 
and chest, are the jirimary clTects experienced by healthy strangers. 
Ilencc, in all diseases of an atonic character, in a depressed and relaxed state 
of the nervous ami muscular systems, and in conj^cstive diseases, the 
climate is injurious. 



64 EAUX BONNES. 

farm-houses, and through which flows the Gave^ 
which has been ah-eady noticed, but which Is 
transformed from a foaming mountain-torrent to 
a placid and broad river, crossed by a handsome 
bridge. On the opposite side, the hills are clothed 
with vineyards, which yield the esteemed wine of 
Juranc;on ; while, towards the south, a back- 
ground to the prospect is formed by the chain of 
the Pyrenees, in the centre of which the Pic du 
Midi towers above the rest.* 

The park, which extends a considerable dis- 
tance from the chateau, and possesses an avenue 
of fine old trees, is the most usual promenade: 
the walks and rides in the environs are beautiful 
and varied, and the angler may have ample scope 
for the gratification of his taste. In the town 
there is a tolerable theatre, and a reading room, 
where the London papers are received. There is 
also frequently a good deal of society, so that 
altogether Pau would offer several resources 
during a winter residence. 

The Eaux Bonnes, and Eaux Chaudes, are 
about seven leagues from Pau : the road, passing 
over the bridge, and for some distance along the 
river, is highly interesting. At the little town of 
Laruns, in the valley of Ossau, it divides into 
two, the one to the right leading up a wild defile 
between mountains clothed with box-wood to the 
Eaux Chaudes ; while that to the left leads by a 

* The chateau of Pau is now the prison of Abclcl-Katler. 



EAUX BONNES. ().) 

steep ascent to the Eaiix Bonnes, wliieh is closely 
encircled by lofty .and rnggcd monntains, the sides 
of which have been in some parts cut away to 
alloAv space for new erections. Even now the 
place does not contain more than twenty-five 
houses, which have been found insufficient to 
lodge the increasing number of visitors. 

Close at hand are quarries of marble, which 
have served for building several of the houses, 
which have consequently a handsome appearance, 
and are clean internally, the accommodation 
being better than at most of the other watering- 
places. The bathing establisliment (with baths 
on the ground, and a public room on the first 
floor) is a new and elegant structure. The bath- 
ing cabinets are handsomely fitted up, and the 
baignoires constructed of white marble. In tlie 
vestibule is the cMnking fountain, these springs 
being more used for drinking than for baths, for 
which the supply of water is scarcely sufficient. 
There are two springs, one rising behind tlie 
bath-house, the other a little way up the moun- 
tain ; they are of a lighter sulphurous kind, and 
enjoy a high reputation in disease of the air- 
passages, and in incipient consumption. The 
water is also sent to Pau, and is drank by some 
individuals during the winter. There is at tlie 
Eaux Bonnes a great deficiency of shade, and but 
little space for exercise, on account of tlie moun- 
tains approaching close to the houses. A small 
piece of ground has, hoAvever, been laid out and 



66 EAUX CHAUDES. 

planted with trees. The heat is generally very 
great in the middle of the day, and the transitions 
of temperature are sudden. At the principal hotel 
there are a table d'hote and public rooms for 
reunions; the visitors also associate more at the 
Eaux Bonnes than at some of the other baths, 
where there is a more numerous society, and where 
there are more resources for the occupation of time. 
The position of the Eaux Chaudesis even more 
wild and secluded than that of the Eaux Bonnes, 
being in a narrow gorge between box and fir- 
covered mountains on the edge of the Gave 
d'Oleron, which rolls with impetuosity below. 
There are about sixteen houses, mostly old ; the 
bathing cabinets are low and dark, and the 
accommodation altogether very inferior to the 
Eaux Bonnes. The springs are principally em- 
ployed for bathing, the supply of water being 
more abundant than at the Eaux Bonnes, and 
they are said to have great efficacy in rheumatic, 
paralytic, and cutaneous affections. Though 
these waters have been employed medicinally by 
the inhabitants of Beam and the adjacent districts 
ever since the time of Henry IV. (when they 
Were termed Eau d'Arquebusade, from their 
supposed efficacy in gun-shot wounds), it is only 
of late years that a road practicable for carriages 
has been constructed from Laruns ; previously to 
which many of the inhabitants of the town earned 
a livelihood by carrying invalids across the moun- 
tain to the springs. Although termed Chaudes, 



PYRENEAN INHABITANTS. 67 

the temperature of the springs is not much higher 
than the Eaux Bonnes, but yet it is sufficiently 
so for bathing, without requiring the water to be 
artificially heated. In the enidrons is a celebrated 
cavern, termed the fairies' grotto, which extends 
a considerable distance under the mountain. The 
frontier of Spain is about an hour's walk beyond 
the baths. 

Previous to taldng leave of the Pyrenees, I 
will subjoin a few remarks on the peasantry from 
the work of INIr. Inglis, which I have already 
quoted : — 

" The inhabitant of the Pyrenean valley is in 
everything more primitive than the Alpine moun- 
taineer. In his nourishment and dress he retains 
the pastoral simphcity, and, I might add, in his 
morals too. Bread of rye or barley, and milk, 
and a sort of paste made of Indian corn, are the 
habitual diet of the Pyrenean peasant ; and those 
who are in comparatively easy circumstances salt 
some kid's flesh, and sometimes a pig, for high 
days and holidays. In comparison with the com- 
forts which a peasant of the Grindelwald or the 
Grisons draws around him, those of the Pyrenean 
peasant scarcely raise him above the grade of a 
needy man ; for not only are the articles of his 
subsistence of the simplest kind, but even in the 
quantity of these he is limited. 

" In the dress of the Pyrenean peasant of botli 
sexes, the usages of Spain have been adopted. 
The men cover their heads witli a small bonnet. 



68 PYRENEAN INHABITANTS. 

and their bodies with a large cloak, which descends 
to the very feet. The women throughout all the 
Pyrenean valleys are clothed in the same way as 
at Tarbes ; they either wear the capulet or short 
hood of scarlet, or the capuchin, a cloak of blacky 
both thrown over the head and shoulders, and 
most commonly they have sandals upon the feet, 
excepting in the mountains, where the peasant 
generally walks with naked feet. The moun- 
taineers of the Pyrenees are a handsomer race 
than the Alpine peasantry, but the dress of the 
former is less adapted to display the figure. 

"That besetting sin of the SavIss — greed, I 
have never found among the Pyrenees. The 
intercourse of the mountaineer with strangers 
has hitherto been too limited to dull his natural 
feelings of justice, Idndness, and generosity; and 
I have generally found it difficult to prevail upon 
an inhabitant of a Pyrenean cabin, poor as he is, 
to accept any remuneration for his hospitalities. 
Crime of every description is rare in the Pyrenees, 
theft is very unfrequent, and murder altogether 
unloiown. No traveller need hesitate to traverse 
every part of the French Pyrenees alone and 
imarmed." 

The journey from Pan to Bordeaux requires 
eighteen hours. For the first two posts the coun- 
try is beautiful and highly cultivated, the land 
being partitioned off into orchards and meadows 
by hedges, which likewise border the road, as in 
England. On quitting the province of Beam, 



THE LANDES. 69 

and entering upon the district of the Landes at 
Mont-de-Marsan, the aspect of the country be- 
comes totally changed. Nothing is seen for miles 
but extensive marshy wastes, without any sign of 
liabitation, beyond here and there a turf hovel to 
afford shelter to the peasantry, who are employed 
to superintend the flocks of sheep, and whose 
aspect is sufficiently indicative of the malarious 
influence of the locality. In the winter, and 
when the ground is covered in many parts with 
water, they use for progression high stilts, which 
enable them to see for a considerable distance, 
and with which they can run and leap the wide 
chasms, by which the ground is frequently inter- 
sected, with surprising dexterity. A man, woman, 
and child generally go together, walldng on these 
stilts, the woman being usually employed in knit- 
ting ; and, seen from afar, the group presents 
rather a grotesque appearance. The soil of this 
tract of coimtry is loose and sandy, and the road 
through it was formerly made with piles of wood 
laid across. Within the last three or four years, 
however, a tolerable chaussee has been constructed 
with stone, which was brought from a great dis- 
tance. Notwithstanding the desolateness and 
unhealthiness of this district, the inhabitants are 
said to be much attached to it, prefering it to 
other parts. 

At Bazos, the country again assumes an aspcn-t 
of fertility, and at Langon the road joins the left 
bank of the Garonne, which is here crossed h\ a 



TO BORDEAUX. 

handsome suspension bridge, and whence there is 
constant communication with Bordeaux by steam- 
boats. The banks of the river are beautiful, and 
in many parts strikingly picturesque — verdant 
meadows, gently sloping uplands and vineyards ; 
well-wooded hills, occasionally crowned mth 
ruins; modern country-houses and pleasure- 
grounds present themselves in succession or alter- 
nately to the view, till the traveller arrives within 
sight of the city and its handsome stone bridge. 
The celebrated vineyards of Sauterne and Barsac 
lie a little way from the left bank of the river. 

Few strangers can fail to be struck with the 
magnificent aspect of Bordeaux. The coup-d'oeil 
of its splendid quays and range of buildings, 
extending in a semicircular form upwards of three 
miles, of the broad river crowded with shipping, 
and of the bridge, which is longer than that of 
Southwark, is unique of its kind; Avhile the bustle 
of its streets, the spacious squares and pro- 
menades, and the richness of the shops, impart to 
it every appearance of a metropolis. The line 
avenues of trees in the AlUes de Tourny and des 
Quinconces are the most usual resort of the 
inhabitants. Among the pubhc edifices prin- 
cipally deserving of notice are the cathedral, the 
gothic church of St. Michael, and the theatre, 
which, as a work of architecture, is considered to 
be faultless. The interior of the building is, 
however, dirty, and the performers are but in- 
different, theatricals not being much patronized 



BORDEAUX. 71 

by the higher classes. The great hospital St. 
Andre is likewise an elegant structure, and its 
interior arrangement and cleanliness are superior 
to most of the medical institutions which I have 
visited. It contains seven hundi'ed beds. Bor- 
deaux ranks high as a school of medicine, and 
numbers among its inhabitants several celebrated 
men. Notmthstanding its beauty as a city, it 
would not offer much attraction for the prolonged 
residence of strangers; for though the inhabitants 
be coiu'teous and hospitable, most of them are 
engaged in commerce, and a person without 
occupation would soon experience a want of 
resources. Society is a good deal divided into 
coteries, and pleasure is less followed than in 
many other parts of France. The principal 
merchants have large houses on tlie Quai des 
Chartrons, beneath which are extensive cellars, 
where the wines are kept preparatory to exporta- 
tion. 

The climate is bad at Bordeaux ; the heat in 
summer being very great, while the winter, thougli 
not very cold, is generally damp, from the winds 
which blow from the ocean and the marshy district 
of the Landes. A good deal of rain also falls. 
The most prevalent diseases are rheumatic and 
bronchial affections, inflammations of the bowels, 
pulmonary consumption, scrofula, continued and 
intermittent fevers.* 

* " The modern word Bordeaux admits of an easy explanation, for it is 
almost literally bord-dps-emtx, or horde d'ciaix, which ia truth. Bordeaux 



i^ BORDEAUX. 

The public cemetery, about a mile from the 
town, is worth visiting. It is a spacious piece of 
ground, divided into different sections by rows of 
cypress and plane-trees. Some of the mausoleums 
and tombs are of fine marble, and all have flowers 
planted around them, or are decorated with chap- 
lets of immortelles. There are likewise in the 
environs several pomts to which interesting 
excursions may be made, as the Chateau de la 
Brede, formerly the residence of Montesquieu; 
the Chateau d'Epernon, Lafitte, and Margeaux, 
where are the celebrated vineyards, which are 
insufficient to supply a tithe of the wine wliich is 
sold in Eiu'ope under their name. [Those desirous; 
of some account of the Bordeaux whines may 
refer to Inglis's Travels in the South of France 
and the Pyrenees ; and also to E-edding's work 
on modern wines,] 

is ill fact surroundecl by waters. Ou the east the Garonne flows, on the 
west and south three streams are found, and on the north are the rivulets 
called the Bourde and the Talle. And, besides all these running streams, 
Ihere are many large marshes, at no great distance from the city." So, 
situated, it may be supposed that Bordeaux cannot be a healthy city ; the 
winds which blow the most frequently are west, south-west, and north- 
west, and these, blowing over the ocean and the Landes, must necessarily 
be charged with humidity. Accordingly the atmosphere of Bordeaux is, 
most commonly moist and mild. During the winters, which are generally 
rainy, the thermometer generally descends below the fourth or fifth degree 
of Reaumur. This humid atmosphere and high temperature during the 
summer, together with the vicinity of the marshes, is productive of frequent 
epidemics, and of various other maladies, among which the most frequent, 
are colds and coughs, intermittent fevers, rheumatism, and particularly 
those diseases -which the French call Phthisie iuberculeuse des advltes^ 
et Phthisie piluiteuse des viellards'' — luglis, Op. Cit. 



TOLKS 73 

About five miles from Bordeaux, on the Paris 
road, at St. Andre de Cubzac, a great work has 
been latterly completed, viz., a suspension bridge 
(or rather, five suspension bridges joined into one) 
across the Dordogne, which is considerably wider 
than the Garonne at Bordeaux. Three pillars of 
masonry in the bed of the river serve as so many 
jwhifs cVappui, and the bridge is raised so liigh 
above the water that large vessels can pass 
beneath. Until it was completed, the communica- 
tion was kept up beneath the banks by a ferry- 
boat moved by horses turning a wheel, with 
paddles ; the current was, however, occasionally 
too strong to allow the boat to pass, and all cor- 
respondence between Bordeaux and Paris by this 
road was consequently cut off for the time. There 
is in the summer and autumn communication by 
steam between Bordeaux and Dublin, the passage 
being made in about three days ; so that invaUds 
proceeding from Ireland to Italy might avoid the 
long land journey through France. There is 
also almost daily steam communication between 
I^a Rochelle, Rochefort, and Nantes. 

The journey from Bordeaux to Paris occupies 
about thirty hours. There is an English colony 
at Tours, though the number is much less than a 
few years ago. The town is beautifully situate 
on the left bank of the Loire, which is crossed by 
a handsome bridge. It consists chiefly of a fine 
wide street, thre-e quarters of a mile long, and 
short di\ergent streets. Living is cheap, and the 



74 TOURS. 

winter climate is mild, the sky being generally 
clear, so that Tours might suit many who are 
desirous of residence less exposed to change and 
bustle than places more resorted to by the 
generality of English travellers. By means of 
the railroad the journey may now be performed 
to Orleans in three, and to Paris in six hours. 



CHAPTER V. 



NICE-CLIMATE AND REMEDIAL ADVANTAGES— CORNICE ROAD-GENOA 
ROAD TO LUCCA-LUCCA BATHS. 



Passing Antibes, the frontier town of France, the 
traveller arrives at the bed of the river Var, which 
di^ddes France from Piedmont, and is crossed by 
a long wooden bridge, portions of which are 
occasionally carried away by the force of the 
torrent, after heavy rains ; and having undergone 
the ordeal of the custom-house, reaches Nice, 
which is seen to great advantage on approaching 
from the west. Its white houses and clear blue 
sky form a beautiful contrast with the olive- 
covered hills and dusky mountains by which it is 
surrounded on the land side, while on the south 
nothing is seen but the blue waters of the Medi- 
terranean, dotted here and there with small coast- 
ing vessels, which, with theii' broad lateen sails 
glittering in the sun, add to the picturesqueness 
of the scene. The greater part of the town is 
separated from the port by a rocky hill, rising 
precipitously from the sea, and surmounted by 
the ruins of a fort. A parapetted road forms the 
principal means of communication between the 
two parts. The Place Victoire, a spacious square, 



76 NICE. 

and a range of new houses, lie to the north of the 
port — the old town and the new streets to the 
west. The streets of the old town are dirty, 
crowded with shops, and, with one or two excep- 
tions, are scarcely wide enough to admit the 
passage of a carriage. The Corso, a promenade 
shaded by trees, and the streets in its neighbour- 
hood, contain spme good houses, which have a 
sea view, and are let to strangers in the winter. 
A long range of dirty-looking buildings, consist- 
ing of low shops and caffes — -the flat roof of 
which forms an agreeable evening promenade — - 
stands between the Corso and the sea. A river, 
or rather the dry bed of a river, which is some- 
times filled by the waters from the mountains 
after heavy rains, termed the Paglione, forms the 
limits of the town on the west, and this part also 
contains some good houses. Many new buildings 
for the accommodation of visitors have arisen 
withui the last few years. The most ehgible 
quarter, however, which is mostly resorted to by 
the English and higher class of visitors, is the 
suburb of the Croix de Marbre (so called from the 
large marble cross placed upon the spot to com- 
memorate the meeting of Charles V., Francis I., 
and Pope Alexander), which extends along the 
shore for a considerable distance west of the town, 
and contains several handsome houses, to most of 
which a large orange garden is attached, A walk 
extends along tlie beach close to the garden 
wall. 



The environs of Nice are deli«^litfiil ; tlio soil 
is extremely rich in vegetable productions; various 
kinds of flowers, the olive, pomegranate, lemon, 
orange, almond, and fig, grow luxuriantly, and 
some spots almost realize the poet's description of 
an enclianted garden — 

" Vaglil bosclictti di soavi allori, 
D'ulivi e d'amenissime niirtelli, 
^ Cedri ed arancie ch'avean frutti c fiori, 

Contcstc in varie forme c tutte belle ; " 

The termination of the stanza, however, 

" E tra i rami con sicuri voli 
Cantando se ne giano i rossigmioli," 

is not so a^Dplicable, as the Nissards amuse them- 
selves by shooting all the small birds in their 
neighbourhood. 

From the top of the hill a delightful prospect 
presents itself of Nice, with its numerous orange 
gardens, villas, and olive-clad hills ; its beautiful 
bay, and the lofty mountains by which it is shel- 
tered from the north, and to -svhich it owes its 
advantage of climate; while immediately beneath 
the houses of the old town, thickly clustered 
together, form a striking contrast with the beauties 
of earth, sea, and sky, by which they are siir- 
ronnded. 

The province is placed under the control of a 
military governor ; the town consequently con- 
tains a numerous garrison, and the population 
amounts to about thirty-five thousand individuals, 



78 NICE. 

consisting, for the most part, of government 
employes, lodging-house keepers, fishermen, and 
others connected with the port. The peasantry 
are extremely poor, but hard working and honest; 
the women of the lower class do not possess the 

" Dono infelice di bellezza," 

being for the most part dark complexioned and 
coarse featured, which is mainly caused by their 
working constantly exposed to the sun; the mode 
of wearing the hair tied up on the back of the 
head so as to expose the forehead, and the head 
being indifferently protected by round Chinese- 
looking hats ; but even these are frequently not 
worn while pursuing their out-door avocations. 

The town itself does not present many resources 
for amusement. There is a tolerable theatre, 
where operas and vaudevilles are performed ; the 
governor and two or three of the inhabitants give 
a few balls during the season. Dinner and 
evening parties are, however, frequent among the 
English and other visitors. The Church of 
England service is performed by a resident clergy- 
man, in a neat chapel, erected in the Croix de 
Marbre, and encircled by the cemetery. As the 
only good carriage drives are those along the 
Paglione, the roads leading to the Var and to 
Genoa, excursions are frequently made among 
the valleys on donkeys or horseback. One of the 
pleasantest rides is to the convent of Cimiez, 
situate on a hiU overlooking the valley of the 



NICE. 79 

Paglione, which commands a good view of the 
enviions of Nice, and which itself forms one of 
the most prominent featui'es in the scene on look- 
ing up the valley from the town. Several villas 
lie about the base of the hill, which may be hired 
in the winter. In a little work, published by 
Dr. Farr, the author strongly recommends this 
situation in pidmonary diseases, and I agree with 
him that, as far as climate is concerned, it would 
be preferable to the town in some cases. St. Bar- 
thelymi and St. Andi'e are likemse beautifidly 
situate. 

Villefranche is another beautiful spot, lying to 
the eastward of Nice, from which it is separated 
by a steep hill. It possesses a spacious harbour, 
sheltered on all sides, which can admit the largest 
vessels. The little dirty toAvn is almost surrounded 
by olive-co^•ercd hills, which rise steeply above it 
to a considerable height. From Villefranche a 
delightful path, overlooking the sea, and bordered 
by olive trees, myrtle, and other shrubs, leads to 
lyOspizio, situate at the extremity of the tongue 
of land which forms one side of the harbour, 
whence one may enjoy a charming prospect of 
several miles of rocky coast — 

" Indi i monti liguatici c rivicra 
die con arancie, c scmprc vcrde mirti 
Quasi avcndo pcrpctua primavcra 
Spargon per I'aria i bene olenti splrti." 

Nice has long been resorted to by invaUds for 
the sake of its winter climate, which differs ma- 



80 NICE. 

terially from that of Provence and the south of 
France, inasmuch as it is sheltered from the vent 
de bise, or mistral, by the maritime Alps on the 
north and north-east, and by the Estrelles, which 
terminate at the sea, on the west ; but still it is 
liable to cold winds and the atmospherical transi- 
tions, which render a residence in the south of 
Europe dangerous to invalids ; hence much dis- 
crimination is required in the selection of the 
cases likely to be benefited by its climate, as 
well as the proper period of residing there. The 
rainy season is generally over at the time when 
strangers begin to arrive, and the months of 
November, December, and January are usually 
fine and warm, the temperature of the air being 
seldom lower than 45 degrees in the day-time, 
and sometimes as high as 60 degrees in the 
shade. The sky is mostly cloudless, of a deep 
blue colour, and the sun is often extremely 
powerful in the middle of the day, when the 
Nissards usually remain within doors. The atmo- 
sphere is light, dry, and exciting, and is con- 
sequently suited to individuals of a torpid or 
relaxed habit. Cold winds sometimes occur in 
these months, but are most severely felt in the 
spring, when they blow sharply from the east 
over the mountains, at that period covered with 
snow. In the spring also the sun acquires great 
power, rendering the climate extremely tr}dng 
to invalids, especially to those labouring under 
disease of the lungs or air-passages. 



W. -'^--."^^-f^ilTTI 




NICE. 81 

According to Sir J. Clark, the mean winter 
temperature is 48 degrees ; being nine degrees 
warmer than London, one colder than Home, and 
ten colder than Madeira. The daily range of 
temperature is less than any other part, and in 
steadiness of temperature it ranks next to Madeira. 

I perfectly agree with Sir James in the opinion 
that Nice is not suited for the winter residence of 
consumptive patients, or those in whom there 
exists much ii'ritability of the air-passages. The 
air is too sharp and exciting, and the occasional 
cold winds are severely felt. Those persons, 
however, in whom there exists a predisposition 
to consumption, or even those in the earliest stage 
of the disease, Avill often derive considerable 
advantage from passing November, December, 
and January, at Nice, provided there be not 
much acceleration of pulse or cough. The climate 
is generally of great service in chronic bronchial 
disease, particularly the catarrhal affections of 
elderly people, attended mth copious secretion of 
mucus, and in those forms of asthma where there 
is little tendency to inflammatory action. I have 
known some persons labouring under these com- 
plaints who have passed several successive winters 
at Nice. Patients with clironic gout, rheumatism, 
and paralysis (the latter when not from apoplectic 
attacks), as well as those whose general health 
has become deranged by a residence in tropical 
or unhealthy climates, will in general derive 
benefit from wintering at Nice; as will also 



82 NICE. 

many nervous, hypochondriacal, and scrofulous 
patients, and those of a cachectic habit of body, 
with a languid circulation. Several of these cases 
will be likely to derive much more advantage 
from climate by the previous employment of 
mineral waters ; the combination of these means 
offering, in my opinion, the greatest probability 
of cure and amelioration in long standing dis- 
ordered states of the health, where a generally 
alterative and renovating treatment is indicated. 
I have, during several years, been in the habit of 
recommending many invalids, especially those 
with pulmonary complaints, to leave Nice before 
the middle of February, about which period 
inflammation of the lungs and bronchia is very 
common among the inhabitants. Several persons, 
by remaining throughout the spring, have lost 
the advantage which they had gained during the 
preceding months; and though it may not seem 
to be a pleasant thing to travel at this season, yet 
but little difficulty is experienced in proceeding 
to Rome or Pisa, as the coast road to Genoa 
is always passable, and, except immediately 
after heavy rains, is in good condition. The 
constant passage of steam-boats likewise presents 
a rapid mode of conveyance to those who may 
prefer it. 

Nice frequently disagrees with healthy persons 
of an irritable or plethoric habit, inducing head- 
ache or derangement of the digestive organs. 
The diet, both of those in health and invalids, 



NICE. 83 

will require particular attention, as several articles 
which agree very well in England not unfre- 
quently disagree with people at Nice. AVine, in 
particular, should be taken very sparingly. Those 
M'ho remain during the spring should avoid 
exposure to the sun's rays, by remaining in-doors 
in the middle of the day, or by carrying an 
umbrella, as there are no shady walks in the 
immediate neighbourhood of the town. Invalids 
should likewise avoid being out at sunset, as there 
generally arises an exhalation from the earth at 
that houi\ 

With respect to the choice of a residence, the 
Croix de Marbre, and the range of houses near 
the river, appear to me to be the preferable 
situation for the majority of invalids. The ^dllas 
in the neighbourhood of Cimiez are less con- 
venient in many respects, especially with regard 
to dinners, which at Nice are usually sent from a 
traiteufs. AVhen, however, a villa is preferred, 
one should be selected a little elevated above the 
plain, on account of the moisture which frequently 
arises from the irrigated meadows after sunset. 
The houses near the Corso, which have a southern 
aspect, are not objectionable, but those in the 
Piazza Carlo Alberto, and along the left bank of 
the Paglione, are less eligible, on account of their 
northern aspect, and greater exposure to the 
winds, which sometimes sweep down the bed of 
the river with great violence. The Maison Gilli 
is one of the best situated lodging-liouses in the 



84 NICE. 

Croix de Marbre. There are also several new 
houses near the bridge not in an exposed situation. 
The Pension Anglaise will be found a comfortable 
residence for small parties and single people. 

The distance from Nice to Genoa is about a hun- 
dred and twenty miles, by the beautiful road along 
the coast, first opened about sixteen years ago, 
and ever since much frequented, both on account 
of its magnificent scenery, and also from being 
the only way travellers can conveniently pass by 
land between Italy and the north, when the 
Alpine passes are blocked up with the snow. 
The postmg is well served. The road, although 
at some parts extremely narrow, and indifi'erently 
defended by parapets, is for the most part good, 
and, as well as the accommodations at inns, is 
much improved within the last few years. It is 
not often obstructed by snow, but after heavy 
rains, which fill the beds of the mountain torrents, 
through which it passes, the communication is 
sometimes interrupted for a day or two. As the 
scenic beauties of this route have been dwelt 
upon by abler pens, I shall abstain from descrip- 
tion, and content myself with briefly mentioning 
some of its most interesting spots. 

The road is for the most part cut, at elevations 
varying from one hundred to fifteen hundred feet, 
out of the side of mountains which rise steeply 
from the sea, frequently descending to pass 
through towns on the shore, winding round 
beautiful inlets, or crossing some projecting 



CORNICE ROAD. 85 

headland, and at some parts is hewn for several 
miles out of perpendicular rocks, which also, 
in two or three places, are excavated in grottoes 
for its passage. On leaving Nice, you begin to 
ascend hills, round which the road winds for 
thi-ee or four miles inland. At an elevation of 
about fifteen hundred feet, the sea again comes 
into view, and you perceive beneath the harbour 
of Villa Franca, with the picturesque peninsular 
of Ospizio. After a drive of a few miles, you 
descend to Mentone, in the principality of Monaco. 
Further on, Monaco and several other towns and 
villages are seen crowning promontories, or nest- 
ling at the base of precipitous cliffs on the shore. 
Among these St. Remo, Porto Maurizio, and 
Oneglia, are remarkable for the beauty of their 
situation. Most of these towns, however, which, 
on account of the whiteness of the houses, pro- 
duce a fine effect when seen from a distance, are, 
on a nearer approach, found to belie the im- 
pression created by their first appearance. After 
leaving Oneglia, you ascend a steep hill, whence 
a turn of the road suddenly displays to the view 
the magnificent bay of Alassio, with numerous 
towns and villages skirting the shore. A small 
island in the bay adds to the beauty of the scene. 
The views in the neighbourhood of Loano and 
Albenga are also strikingly fine, the mountains 
presenting a bold and rugged aspect, which con- 
trasts agreeably with the verdure and fertility of 
the valley in which Albenga lies. From th^^ 



86 GENOA. 

mountain of Finale, you have likewise a splendid 
prospect, including Genoa and several inter- 
mediate towns; while immediately beneath is 
seen Finale, to which the descent by a narrow 
road, cut by a succession of zigzag turns in the 
precipitous sides of the mountain, is exceedingly 
steep.* Between Finale and Genoa the road is 
excellent, and the scenery of the most interesting 
description. At Noli, the gulf of Genoa, backed 
by a semicircle of lofty mountains, with numerous 
towns along the coast, and the city itself — 

" Che al mar le sponde, il dorso ai monti, 
Occupa tutta, e tutta a cerchio adorna," 

burst upon the view, exhibiting a scene unequalled 
in magnificence. From Savona, the road is 
carried along the sea-shore, and, on approaching 
the city, is skirted with beautiful villas and 
gardens. You then pass through a long suburb, 
and, on arriving at the light-house, see displayed 
before you the harbour filled with shipping, and 
encircled by hills, thickly covered with palaces 
and villas, together with the range of fortifica- 
tions carried for some miles along the heights. 

The entrance by the Strada Balbi, a wide 
street of lofty marble palaces, is strikingly fine. 
The Strada Nuova and the Strada Novissima are 
a continuation of the Balbi, and contain the 
splendid palaces of the ancient Genoese nobility, 

* This road over the hill is now abandoned, a new one having been cut 
along its base and through its extremity, forming a long grotto or tunnel. 



GENOA. 87 

forming, perhaps, the finest streets in Europe. 
These, however, are almost the only ones in 
which carriages can pass ; the rest of the town 
consisting chiefly of narrow passages or alleys 
between lofty houses, descending to the port, 
and thronged with pedestrians and the mules 
which carry about articles of consumption. 
Several of these wynds are lined with rich shops, 
especially the Goldsmith's street, in which a bril- 
liant display is made of gold and silver chains and 
filagree work, for which the Genoese are cele- 
brated. The manufactories of velvets likewise 
employ a good many of the inhabitants ; the 
velvets are, however, inferior to those of Lyons. 
Gold articles are sold by the weight, a fixed price 
being added for the manufacture. 

Most of the palaces are built around spacious 
court-yards : some of them are decorated externally 
with fresco painting, especially those near the 
Piazza delle Fontane Amorose. The most 
remarkable are the Palazzi Durazzo, Pallavicini, 
Brignoli, and Serra, the latter containing a saloon, 
said to be the richest in Europe with respect to 
gilding. There are two Palazzi Durazzo ; one 
is now the royal palace, and formerly contained 
a rich collection of pictures, which has been for 
the most part transferred by the king to Turin. 
The celebrated picture of Paul Veronese, of the 
Magdalen and our Saviour in the house of the 
Pharisee, went with the otliers. A few, however, 
still remain, of which a cruciflxion, by Vandyck, 



88 GENOA. 

a Carmelite friar, by Spagnoletto, and a portrait, 
by. Rembrandt, are among the best. The palace 
Filippo Durazzo contains among its collection 
the Tribute Money, by Guercino, Grecian Charity, 
a Sibyl, and a Sleeping Cupid, by Guide ; some 
portraits, by Vandyck, and Philip of Spain, by 
E-ubens. In the Brignoli are some fine family 
portraits, by Vandyck, especially a Marquis Brig- 
noli on horseback; Christ driving the Buyers 
and Sellers from the Temple, by Guercino ; the 
Madonna, Saviour, and St. John, by the same 
painter; as also a fine Cleopatra and the Assump- 
tion, by Correggio. 

The Doria Palace fronts the harbour, and forms 
a prominent feature in the view from the sea ; it 
is now, however, untenanted, and in a neglected 
state. The port is, perhaps, the most spacious in 
the ^lediterranean. A magnificent marble terrace, 
extending the whole length of the houses, and 
overlooking the harbour, has just been completed. 

Compared with those of Pome and Venice, 
the churches of Genoa are not remarkable for 
exterior beauty or interior decoration. The best 
worth visiting are the cathedral, St. Annunciata, 
and St. Maria Carignano; from the summit of 
the latter there is a good view of the town, port, 
and of the sea. The Albergo dei Poveri, a 
workhouse on a large scale, is a fine estabhsh- 
ment. Visitors are admitted to see the various 
works in progress. The hospital Pamatone is an 
extensive building: the staircase and some of the 



GENOA. 89 

wards are adorned witli statues, larger than lif(% 
of some of the Genoese nohles, and others, who 
have been benefactors to the establishment. 

The opera house is a handsome structure, and 
the corps dra?natiquc tolerably good. 

Genoa, and the numerous villas covering the 
hills around it, are seen to the greatest advantage 
from the entrance to the harbour. The view is 
superb, and second only to that of the bay of 
Naples. A good view of the city and harbour 
may also be enjoyed from the garden of the Villa 
Negri. In some of the arbours mirrors are placed 
so as to reflect the objects beneath, which pro- 
duces a pleasing efl"ect. The Genoese are mostly 
good-looking ; several of the women are hand- 
some, and wear long veils, resembling the Spanish 
mantilla, fastened to their harr with gold or sih^r 
pins; but French fashions have now very generally 
superseded this becoming costume. The higher 
classes possess, for the most part, but scanty 
information, few being addicted to intellectual 
pursuits, and appear to care for little else than 
the pleasures of the hour. If the Italian pro- 
Acrb is to be believed, the Genoese are not 
much to be depended upon; the reason why 
there are so few Jews at Genoa is said to be, 
that the Genoese tiyg '•'■ 2)lf(s juifs que les jtiifs^''' 
though, from what I have seen, I should say that 
they are not more dishonest than the iiiliabitants 
of some other parts of Italy. 

There is but little society at Genoa, and no 



90 ROAD TO LUCCA. 

inducement for the majority of travellers to make 
a prolonged sojourn. 

The climate is one of the worst in Italy: there 
is often much rain in winter. The changes of 
temperature are great and sudden, the hills 
behind the town not being sufficiently high to 
shelter it from the north and east winds, which 
blow down with considerable force from the 
higher mountains. 

Between Genoa and Chiavari, the scenery is 
of a character similar to that on the Savona side. 
At Recco the road passes through a grotto, 
whence there is a splendid view of the bay, 
encircled by mountains. Before arriving at Chia- 
vari, you pass two other grottoes, cut through 
rocks of marble, within fifty yards of each other, 
the intermediate part being built up with masonry. 
Chiavari is a pretty town on the shore, beyond 
which the road winds inland, crossing the 
Bracco, the highest pass of the Apennines, to 
Borghetto, a dirty miserable-looking place. Be- 
yond this town you traverse a level country, and 
ascend the hill above Spezzia, whence the town, 
with its magnificent bay — one of the finest 
natural harbours in the world, encircled by high 
mountains — is seen expanded beneath, forming 
a coup d'ceil rarely equalled in beauty. Leaving 
Spezzia, you are ferried across the Magra (which 
after heavy rains frequently overflows its bed, so 
as to interrupt the communication) drive through 
Sarzana, the last town on the Genoese territory, 



LUCCA BATHS. 91 

and enter Tuscany, passing by Carrara, which 
is situate in a picturesque locality, amidst dark 
masses of mountain with snow-tipped summits, 
and is celebrated for its marble quarries, which 
supply the studii of Rome and Florence with 
the materiel whence emanate those creations of 
the chisel which excite the admiration of the 
beholder. You arrive next at Massa, the environs 
of which, abounding in vines, oranges, olives, &c., 
form a complete garden, whence, after crossing a 
steei^ hill, you traverse a level and fertile plain, 
which extends to Lucca. 

This town, enclosed by ramparts, doubtless 
merited the title of LTndustriosa. Its streets 
are clean, regularly built, and paved with flag- 
stones; they have now, however, a deserted 
appearance, the poj)ulation not being in propor- 
tion to the size of the town. The palace is a 
handsome structure, elegantly fitted up, and con- 
tains some good pictures. In the Dominican 
Convent is a celebrated picture — the Assumption, 
by Fra Bartolomeo. The Lucchese are good- 
tempered, courteous to strangers, and are said to 
be a very moral people, compared with other 
parts of Italy. 

The baths of Lucca are about fourteen miles 
from the town, and arc much resorted to in the 
summer by the English ; this being one of the 
coolest spots in Italy, and free from mosquitoes. 
They lie in a pleasant valley of the Apennines, 
on the little river Lima, and are divided into 



92 LUCCA BATHS. 

three parts. The Ponte Seraglio and the Bagni 
alia Villa are close to the river, about a mile 
distant from each other, and are connected by a 
good carriage road. The Bagni Caldi are situate 
on the hill overlooking the Ponte Seraglio, and 
this is the best situation for invalids, being cooler 
than the valley, where also considerable humidity 
often prevails at night. The springs rise from 
the hill, but beyond their high temperature do 
not possess any active medicinal properties. A 
course of the baths may be recommended in 
rheumatic affections, and some other disordered 
states of the health ; but the place is principally 
frequented on account of its being a cool and 
agreeable summer retreat. The environs abound 
in delightful rides and walks, sheltered by fine 
chesnut trees, where exercise may be taken at any 
time of the day. The season lasts from the middle 
of May till the end of August, at which period 
the weather is generally fine and settled. 

The district of Lucca is very fertile, producing 
abundance of corn and oil. It is pleasing to 
hear the peasantry in autumn 

" Singing some national song by the way-side," 

Avhile employed in the olive plantations. The 
people are for the most part prosperous and 
cheerful. 

This territory has lately been added to the 
Grand Duchy of Tuscany. 



CHAPTER VI. 



PISA AND ITS CLIMATE-LEGHORN-FLORENCE— CHARITABLE SOCIETIES 
ENVIRONS -CLIMATE— ROAD TO ROME. 

Pisa is fourteen miles distant from Lucca, with 
which it is connected by a raih'oad extending to 
Florence on the one side and to Leghorn on the 
other. The plain in which the town stands 
is continued on the one side to the sea, five miles 
westward, and on the other to Leghorn, which 
lies fourteen miles to the south. Pisa is in some 
measure sheltered on the north and north-east by 
a range of high hills, rising at a little distance 
from it. The Arno flows through the town, with 
a semicircular bend, dividing it into two unequal 
parts. The quays are handsome, the streets wide, 
clean, and, like those of most towns in Tuscany, 
are paved with flag stones. The population, 
which amounted in former times, when Pisa was 
the capital of an independent state, to 150,000, 
docs not now exceed 20,000, which imparts 
to it a melancholy and deserted aspect. , Pisa 
is the seat of an university ; the number 
of students wlio matriculate amounting to 
about five hundred annually. The most in- 
teresting objects, viz., the leaning to\\'er, tlie 



94 PISA. 

cathedral, the baptistery, and Campo Santo, lie 
close together in the same square. The cathedral 
is a large edifice of black and white marble, and 
is one of the handsomest churches in Italy. The 
fine gothic aisles and the richness of its interior 
will scarcely disappoint the traveller's expecta- 
tions. The bas reliefs on the bronze doors are 
admirably executed, and in very good preserva- 
tion. The Campo Santo is a quadrangular space, 
enclosed between lofty and elegant arcades; part 
of the earth is said to have been brought from 
Jerusalem, whence the name of this cemetery. 
Beneath the arches are tombs, finely sculptured 
bassi relievi, ancient sarcophagi, and other curiosi- 
ties. The walls are painted over with frescoes a la 
Dante, some of which are in a good state of pre- 
servation. The Campo Santo produces a rich 
efiect when seen by moonlight. 

The leaning tower is an elegant circular struc- 
ture, eight stories high, supported by numerous 
marble pillars, between which a winding staircase 
ascends to the top, whence may be obtained a 
good view of the town, and of the surrounding 
country as far as the sea. The tower is used as 
a belfry, and declines about thirteen feet from 
the perpendicular. There is little doubt that the 
declination depends upon the soil having given 
way after the foundation was laid. 

The mineral springs of St. Giuliano, termed 
also the baths of Pisa, are not far from the town; 
they contain principally muriate and carbonate of 



PISA. 95 

soda (twenty-four grains to the pint), and have a 
temperature of 27 to 31 degrees, Ileaumur ; but, 
as they possess no particular advantages to induce 
English invalids to give them a preference over 
others which are more pleasantly situate, I need 
not enter into a description of them. 

Pisa enjoys, next to Rome, the mildest and 
most equable winter climate in Italy. The air is 
less dry and sharp than that of Nice, but less 
soft than that of Rome. It is not so liable to 
great and sudden variations of temperature as 
Florence and Naples. Cold winds are, however, 
frequently severely felt, particularly in the earlier 
part of the spring. Sir J. Clark says that the 
quantity of rain which falls during the year at 
Pisa is nearly as great as in Cornwall. It must, 
however, be borne in mind, that as the rain falls 
in large quantities at a time, the weather is less 
variable, and long periods of fine weather inter- 
vene. The heat of the sun is at times very great 
in winter and spring, causing a difference of tem- 
perature of several degrees between the Lung' 
Arno and other parts of the town less sheltered 
from cold. The climate agrees well with the 
majority of consumptive patients. Persons pre- 
dis]iosed to phthisis, and those suffering from 
laryngeal and bronchial affections, which simulate 
that disease, especially if young, generally derive 
permanent benefit from wintering at Pisa, two or 
three successive years if necessary ; gouty and 
paralytic patients would likewise frequently 



96 LEGHORN. 

derive much benefit from the climate, Pisa is, 
however, a dull residence, from its possessing 
none of the resources of a capital, its com- 
paratively depopulated appearance, and also from 
the number of invalids there congregated. For 
those who require more amusement, and are able 
without danger to partake of it, Rome is prefer- 
able. Many, however, find Pisa agree better 
Avith them than the more relaxing climate of 
Rome. It suits well some asthmatic invahds, 
and others whose general health is deranged, 
without the existence of any evident local disease, 
as is not unfrequently the case with those who 
have resided in unhealthy climates. The houses 
on the sunny side of the river are the most 
eligible for invalids. 

The large bustling sea-port of Leghorn presents 
a forcible contrast with the tranquillity of Pisa. 
It possesses a spacious square, and several wide 
streets, some of them being intersected by canals, 
as at Venice. There is a small English popula- 
tion, chiefly consisting of the families of mer- 
chants ; few visitors remain long at Leghorn, 
except in September and October, during which 
months many repair thither from Florence or the 
baths of Lucca for sea bathing. The town itself 
is exceedingly hot in the summer, and, from the 
sea-water marshes in its neighbourhood, is a good 
deal infested Avith mosquitoes. Travellers may 
proceed from. Leghorn or Pisa to Pome (Avithout 
going to Florence) by Poggibonsi, AA^hich is a fcAV 




A 




III"'' I 



TT "?T^ > : 



'I i 



m 
o 



il 



i I 




i^ 






ml 



FLORENCE. 97 

posts shorter. Steamers leave every second day 
for Civita Veccliia (a voyage of fourteen hours), 
Naples (thirty hours), Genoa (ten hours), and for 
Marseilles direct (about thirty hours). The new 
iron steamers, Capri and Vesuvio, perform the 
trajets much quicker. I lately went from Leghorn 
by the former of these boats to Genoa in seven 
liours (which by land requires twenty-eiglit), 
and from Genoa to Marseilles in fifteen, other 
boats requiring from twenty to twenty-four hours. 

Leaving Leghorn or Pisa for Florence, you 
traverse the richest part of Tuscany. Corn, 
grapes, and olives, are seen growing in the same 
field ; the vines being gracefully festooned from 
tree to tree, produce a pleasing effect. The soil 
yields two and sometimes three crops in the year. 
The peasantry appear to be cheerful and con- 
tented ; many of the women in the villages are 
engaged in the manufacture of the straw hats 
exported from Leghorn : though not remarkable 
for beauty, they are mostly good-looking, and 
their style of dress is not unlike that of th(^ 
English peasantry. 

Florence lies forty-five miles distant from Pisa, 
at the north-eastern extremity of the Val d' Arno, 
an extensive plain enclosed between the Apen- 
nines. It is a cheerful-looking city, encircled 
by a high wall, and contains ujnvard^ of 
S(),000 inhabitants. The houses are lofty. Several 
of the streets are narrow, but the principal 
ones are wide, clean, and paved with fiag-stonc^s. 

II 



98 FLORENCE, 

Though aclclmg greatly to the appearance of a 
town, the width of the streets m warm climates 
is no recommendation, and they are generally 
built narrow in order to afford shelter from the 
sun's rays. The massive style of the architecture of 
most of the palaces which were built during the 
intestine wars, when "each house was a fortalice,'' 
gives to the principal streets a grand and im- 
posing appearance. The Arno flows through the 
city, and is crossed by four bridges. That of 
Santa Trinita is regarded as a model of light- 
ness and architectural beauty. A suspension 
bridge has likewise been erected by a company 
of Frenchmen within the last few years. Spacious 
and handsome quays adorn both sides of the 
river, which are termed, as at Pisa, the Lung' 
Arno. The city has of late been lighted with 
gas, which is an immense improvement upon the 
lamps formerly slung by ropes across the streets. 
Florence possesses several fine squares — the 
Piazza del Granduca, with the imposing mass 
and the characteristic tower of the Palazzo 
Vecchio; the elegant structure termed the Loggia 
dei Lanzi, embellished with statues (among which 
the Perseus of Cellini will be particularly 
remarked) ; the fountain and colossal Neptune, 
together with the equestrian statue of the " father 
of his country," Cosmo, present as an ensemble 
a novel and striking aspect. The square of 
the Duomo, or cathedral, is connected with that 
of the Granduca by a handsome new street, which 



FLORENCE. 99 

is constantly thronged. The cathedral is, after 
St. Peter's, the largest church in Italy; its, facade^ 
like that of most of the Florentine churches, is 
unfinished, and is disfigured mth numerous holes, 
which served to fix the scaffolding at the time of 
its erection. The interior is extremely plain, and 
rather sombre. Close to the chiu'ch stands the 
beautiful Campanile or belfry, built, like it, of 
black and white marble. Its summit is the best 
point for viemng the town, the course of the 
Arno through the plain, and the Apennine range, 

" Monti superbi la cui fronte Alpina 
Fa di se contra i venti argine e sponde, 
Valli beate per cui d'onda in ouda 
L'Arno con passo signoril cammina." 

In the same square is the baptistery : the finely 
executed bassi-relie\T. on its bronze doors are 
much admired. The most interesting, however, 
of the Florentine churches is the Santa Croce, 
which, though outwardly a plain-looking brick 
edifice, is, internally, of the finest style of Gothic 
architecture, and is well calculated to favour 
religious contemplation. The beautiful stained 
glass windows add greatly to the effect of the 
whole. In the side aisles are the tombs of some 
of the most celebrated men to whom Florence 
lias given birth : — 

" Here repose 
Angclo's, Alfieri's bones, and liis 
Tlie starry Galileo witli bis woes, 
Here Macliiavclli's carlh returned to whence it rose." 



100 FLORENCE. 

A handsome monument to the memory of 
Dante was a few years ago added to the number. 
The adjoining cloisters is the burial-place of 
several Florentine families. Of the other churches, 
Santa Annunciata, with its cloisters, the Santa 
Maria Novella, in the square of that name, and 
the San Spirito, where the music is very fine, are 
the best worth visiting. The Capella dei Medici, 
containing the tombs of the dukes of Tuscany, is 
the richest of the kind in Europe. It is of 
an octagonal form, and completely lined with 
variegated marbles inlaid with precious stones ; 
but it is still unfinished, and many years must 
elapse before its completion. 

The Corsini Palace, the facade of which 
occujDies a considerable space on the Lung'Arno, 
is of a light and modern style of architecture, 
forming a strong contrast with some of the other 
Tuscan palaces. It contams a choice collection 
of pictures, among which will be particularly 
remarked four magnificent water pieces, with 
shipping, by Salvator Hosa ; two battles by the 
same great painter ; the head of an old man, by 
Tintoretto ; a small Teniers ; the Judith and 
Tlolofernes of Allori ; the Poesia, and other 
pictures, by Carlo Dolce ; and Guide's Lucretia. 

The Florentine gallery contains separate rooms 
for the productions of the Tuscan, German, 
Flemish, and French schools, in which are 
several superior pictures, though none of them, 
except the head of Medusa, by Leonardo da 



FLORENCE. 101 

Vinci, are particularly striking, perhaps on 
account of the absorbing mterest excited by the 
Tribune, which contains several of the choicest 
specimens of painting and sculpture in the world. 
Tlie Venus first rivets the attention, and the 
Faun, Arrotino, and Apollino subsequently come 
in for their share. Of the pictures, Titian's 
Venuses, St. John, and Pope Leo the Tenth, by 
Ilaphael, and Herodias with the Head of Jolm 
tlie Baptist, will be more especially remarked, 
even among so many chefs d'oeuvre. The hall of 
Baroccio, so termed from the large picture of the 
Madonna del Popolo by this painter, contains, 
among other fine pictures, the Madonna Adolorata 
of Sasso Ferrata ; Philip of Spain on horseback, 
by Velasquez ; St. Clovis, a large picture, by 
Carlo Dolce. In this room may also be admired 
some of the finest specimens of the pietra dura 
manufacture, for which Florence is celebrated. 

The cabinet of gems is, after that of Dresden, 
the richest in Europe. That of the bronzes is 
likewise highly interesting. The gallery does 
not possess many good statues, except those in 
the hall of Niobe, some of the busts of {\\v 
lloman emperors, and the wild boar in tlie 
vestibule. 

Tlie Palazzo Pitti, a heavy sombre-looking 
building externally, is the residence of the Cirand 
Duke, who liberally allows visitors to see daily 
his rich colh^ction, which contains but few 
ordinary pictures ; some of the most striking are 



102 FLORENCE. 

two large landscapes by Salvator Rosa, and two 
by Rubens ; Titian's Mistress ; the Madonna and 
Infant, by Murillo — one of his best pictures; 
another of the same subject, but inferior to the 
former; a head of Rembrandt, the Madonna della 
Seggiola, Julius the Second, Leo the Tenth, and 
a Magdalen, by Raphael; the Conspiracy of 
Catiline, by Salvator Rosa; the Fates, by Michael 
Angelo; St. Peter, by Carlo Dolce; St. Sebastian, 
by Titian ; and Cleopatra, by Guido. Here may 
likewise be seen the Venus of Canova, and several 
curiosities. 

The museum of natural history is one of the 
best in Europe, and contains a large collection of 
anatomical wax models, coloured according to 
nature, exhibiting all the parts of the body, both 
conjointly and in detail, of the natural size; a 
separate room being allotted to each division of 
anatomy, as osteology, myology, &c., and one to 
the progressive development of the embryo. The 
models are sufficiently correct for general pur- 
poses. The three celebrated wax representations 
of the plague, in small glass cases, are to be seen 
in an adjoining room. 

Florence possesses four or five theatres. The 
opera, or Pergola, is a long ugly-looking building, 
the interior of which is decorated with taste and 
neatness. The orchestra is excellent, as in most 
Italian towns, but the singers are not of the first 
celebrity. First-rate operatic singing is not 
frequently heard in Italy, where the scale of 



FLORENCE. 103 

remuneration is much lower than in London or 
Paris ; and it is only en 2)assant that a singer of 
great celebiity will vouchsafe to sing at any other 
town than Milan or Naples. 

There are at Florence several societies for the 
encom-agement of the arts, literature, and for 
charitable piu'poses, as the Academia de belli 
Arti, della Crusca, the Aixheeological Academy, 
the Magliabechian Library, &c. The Societa 
della Misericordia was instituted in the begimiing 
of the fifteenth century, at the time of the great 
plague : the number of its members is seventy, 
two-thirds bemg high ecclesiastics and nobles, 
one-third consisting of the manufacturing and 
trading classes. Its object is to render assistance 
to the sick poor, for whom the members perform 
many kind offices, and supply them with the 
necessaries of which they may stand in need. 
The society also undertakes the burial of poor 
persons, and in cases of accident sends to the spot 
where assistance is required, to convey the person 
to the hospital, or to his own residence. Tlie 
brethren meet in the building in the Piazza del 
Duomo, where their affairs are conducted by a 
committee, of which one or more members are 
always in attendance, to indicate to the assistants 
on duty tlie place where their services are 
required. The sick are carried in covered litters 
on the shoulders of the giornanti or assistants, 
wlio maintain a profound silence, and are clotlied 
from head to foot in a bhick domino, in aider to 



104 FLORENCE. 

conceal the persons of those thus engaged. Ten, 
twelve, and often more assistants accompany each 
litter, and relieve each other in supporting the 
burden. There is a branch of this establishment 
at Pisa. 

Another praiseworthy institution is that of the 
Buonuomini, of which Forsyth gives the folio wing- 
account, but which is not now in a flourishing 
condition : — " A society of twenty gentlemen, 
called the Buonuomini di San Martino, has been 
for four hundred years collecting and distributing 
alms among the poor, who are ashamed to beg. 
The rank of these philanthropists, and the objects 
of relief, induce the rich to contribute, and some- 
times to bequeath, considerable supplies. All 
bequests are turned into cash, and the receipts of 
every year are distributed within the year to 
hundreds who are starving under a genteel 
appearance ; decayed gentlemen, whose rank 
deters others from offering relief; ladies who live 
in garrets, are ashamed of their poverty, and steal 
down to mass before daylight ; industrious 
women, whom the failure of the silk manu- 
factories leaves without resource ; such are the 
objects to whom the Buonuomini go privately 
every week to visit and relieve. They are a kind 
of benevolent spies upon the domestic miseries of 
Florence, and accustomed to search out the 
retreats of suffering delicacy." 

The upper class of Florentines are affable, fond 
of gaiety, not given to intellectual exertion, and 



FLORENCE. 105 

do not associate much with the resident English. 
Their morality appears to have improved of late 
years ; at least, open cicisbeism is quite out of 
date. Tlie lower classes are generally cheerfid, 
industrious, and tolerably satisfied with their 
political condition, though their promises are not 
always to be depended upon. Strangers likewise 
complain that the tradespeople are tricky and sharp 
in their dealings. The government is no longer 
despotic, and prosperity and content appear to 
prevail thi-oughout the duchy. Open robbery or 
murder is rare, and the punishment of death is 
very seldom had recourse to. The Duke is an 
amiable and intelligent man, and is generally 
popular among his subjects ; his highness walks 
almost daily with some of his flimily on the 
])ublic promenade at the Cascina, .one of his 
farms, surrounded with pleasure-grounds, situate 
on tlie Arno, about a mile from the town, and 
the favourite resort of the inhabitants.* 

Florence presents more resources of amuse- 
ment, and more advantages for the permanent 
residence of persons in health, than any otlier 
city in Italy ; though at the present time it is 
mucli less agreeable in point of society tlian some 
years ago, when enlivened by the hospitalities 
and well-conducted amateur tlieatrical entertain- 



* TiLscaiiy, willi tlic exwijlioii of Leghorn, lias liitlicrto boon compa- 
ralively llxc iVoiu the rcvohiLioiiary uiovciuciila whicli liavc ;ii;ilatctl 
Eiiiopc, owing luiiicipally to the lihuial jwlicy of the Duke, and tlie ilesirc 
vvhicli he Las ulway^j mainlcstnl to impruvc the conJilioii ol'hib subjectb. 



106 FLORENCE. 

ments of Lords B. and N., Princes Borghese, 
Demidoif, &c. Balls and reunions frequently 
take place at the Pitti Palace, and at the Casino, 
to which those who have been presented to the 
Duke receive invitations. There is also one of 
the best circulating libraries and reading rooms 
on the continent, where several of the principal 
London papers are received. Apartments and 
living are not so expensive as at E-ome or Naples ; 
several of the villas in the environs are let to 
strangers, and are preferable for a permanent 
residence, on account of the extreme heat within 
the city in the summer months. Besides the 
Cascina, there are numerous agreeable walks and 
drives round the walls and in the neighbourhood. 
The Boboli gardens, behind the Pitti Palace, are 
likewise open to the public on stated days. The 
views from the highest part of the gardens, as 
also from the Poggio Imperiale — a villa of the 
Duke's outside the Porta Eomana — are highly 
interesting, but the point whence the best view 
of Florence may be obtained is from the Bello 
Sguardo, a villa belonging to the Albizzi family, 
formerly the abode of Galileo, and situate on a 
hill opposite to Fiesole, which, placed between 
two of the Apennines, forms a striking feature 
in the scene. From the roof, the whole of the 
city is seen, with the Arno pursuing its course 
through the plain, which, with the surrounding 
hills, is thickly dotted with towns, villages, 
and villas, whose whiteness forms a pleasing 



FLORENCE. 107 

contrast with the verdure of the ground, the 
more dusky hue of the olive trees, and the clear 
blue of the sky. 

An interesting- excursion may be made to 
Fiesole, nearly four miles from Florence, which 
also commands extensive views of the Val d'Arno, 
and of the Apennines; and likemse to the 
monasteries of Vallombrosa and Camaldoli, the 
former of wluch was praised by Ariosto as being, 
in liis time, 

" Ricca e bella, nc men rcligiosa 
E cortesc a cliiinuiue vi veiiia." 

It lies about foiu'teen miles distant, in a wild and 
secluded part of the Apennines, and still preserves 
its reputation for hospitality.* 

There are at Florence two large hospitals and 
a founcUing hospital, in which between two and 
three thousand infants are received annually. 
The manner in which infants throughout Italy 

* AVhatever may be the merits or demerits of these monastic establish- 
ments, there is, it must be confessed, something very striking in their 
duration. Kingdoms and empires rise and fidl around them, governments 
change, dynasties flourish and fade, manners and dress undergo con- 
tinual alterations, and languages tiicmsclves die away and give place 
to new motles of speech. Enter the gates of Camaldoli or La Verna, 
the torrent of time stands still — you are carried back to the sixth or 
tiie tenth century. You sec the manners and habits, and hear the 
language of tiiose distant periods — you converse M'ith anotlier race of 
beings, unalterable in themselves, thougli placed among mortals, as if 
appointed to observe and record the vicissitudes from which they are 
exempt." — JEustucj. 

" From their retreats, calmly contemplating 
The changes of the earth, themselves unchanged.'' — liogem. 



108 FLORENCE. 

are swaddled tip in cloths — somewliat after the 
fashion of an Egyptian mummy, the head only 
being left to move freely — ^is productive of dis- 
tortion of the limbs and other bad consequences. 

The hospitals here, as in many other parts of 
the continent, are superintended by government, 
and patients are admitted on application, without 
any other recommendation than that of their 
requiring medical assistance. Among the town 
practitioners, the abstraction of small quantities 
of blood is very common, which has frequently 
the effect of debilitating the patients, without 
eifectually checking the progress of inflammatory 
attacks. 

Dr. Harding resides at Florence, as also one 
or two other English practitioners. 

The diseases which prevail most in Florence 
are pleurisy, bronchial affections, and acute in- 
flammation of the lungs, which carries off annually 
a great number of the poorer people, and, from 
not being treated at the beginning with sufficient 
energy, frequently lays the foundation of con- 
sumption ; rheumatism, gastric irritation, and 
diseases of the eyes are also extremely pre- 
valent. 

In the summer months the heat is extremely 
oppressive in Florence; the glare from the white- 
ness of the houses and flag-pavement is exceed- 
ingly trying to the eyes ; and, combined with the 
cold winds in spring, is doubtless the principal 
cause of the great prevalence of diseases of these 



FLORENCE. 109 

organs. In winter tlic weather is much colder 
tlian at Home or Pisa ; the transitions of teni- 
peratnrc arc great and sudden, and rain frequently 
falls in torrents. 

According to the statements of Mondat, the 
following is the average proportion of rainy 
to fine days, from observations made during 
seven years : — 

Fiue daj'S in tlic year 1 GO 

Rainy days 110 

Variable 95 

365 

From eighteen to twenty inches is the average 
quantity of rain which falls in a year.* 

The tramontane (which is analogous to the 
vent dc hise of Provence) sweeping over the 
Apennines is sharp and piercing, while at the 
same time the heat of the sun is often in- 
conveniently felt in some parts of the city. 
Thus, in less than a minute, the change from 
summer's heat to winter's cold maybe experienced, 
rendering the inhabitants more susceptible to 
inflammatory attacks on the lungs and air- 
passages than those living in a climate uniformly 
cold. The majority of Italians guard against 
these transitions of temperature by the constant 
practice of wearing large cloaks, without which 
they seldom stir out during five months of the 
}ear; foreigners, who are less cautious in this 

* Topographic McJicalc dc Florcucc. 



110 FLORENCE. 

respect, frequently experience the bad effects of 
their negligence. 

From the end of November to the middle of 
March, the cKmate of Florence is less adapted 
than any other in Italy to persons labouring 
under pulmonary, bronchial, or rheumatic com- 
plaints. It generally agrees with dyspeptic and 
nervous patients who seek mental recreation ; 
and I have known it suit some patients with 
nervous asthma better than any other Italian 
town. Such invalids should reside in that part 
of the city north of the Arno. The best 
situations are the Lung' Arno, the Piazzas Santa 
Trinita, Santa Maria Novella, and the adjacent 
streets. The Via d' Servi, and others in the 
neighbourhood of the cathedral, have some good 
houses; but this situation is colder. The best 
street on the southern side of the river is the 
Via Maggio, leading to the Porta Romana. 

The weather in October and November is 
usually fine and warm. Invalids, on their way 
to winter at Pome, will frequently benefit more 
by remaining these months at Florence, than by 
proceeding at once to Pome. They should not 
return to Florence before April, at which period 
the weather is in general delightful. 

The distance from Florence to Pome is about 
two hundred and twenty miles, which is traversed 
by the courier in thirty-six hours, but requires 
five days en voiturier. The country is pretty as 
far as Sienna, which, from its elevated position, is 



ROAD TO ROME. 



Ill 



one of the coolest summer residences in Italy, 
and, like the baths of Lucca, it is free from 
mosquitoes, on which accounts many persons 
select it for their summer quarters. The town is 
well-built, and contains about 20,000 inhabitants; 
the society is said to be good, and the Italian 
language to be spoken in all its purity. Living- 
is also very cheap at Sienna. The cathedral, 
built of white and black marble, is the only 
object calculated to arrest the attention of the 
passing traveller. 

From Sienna the road is, for the most part, 
hilly, and has rather a triste appearance, especially 
about Radicofani, a wretched-looking town, 
perched on the summit of a bleak mountain, and 
the frontier of Tuscany. The hotel and custom- 
house are on the road below the town, and the 
accommodation is better than might be expected 
from the appearance of the place. Descending 
the mountain, you enter the papal dominions, 
and pass through Aquapendente, a dirty and 
comfortless town in a beautiful situation. You 
afterwards drive along the shore of the lake of 
Bolsena, where the scenery is highly interesting; 
the country, however, is extremely unhealthy as 
far as Viterbo, a large walled town, abounding 
with monks and ecclesiastical seminaries, and 
situate in a dreary tract of country, which the 
malaria seems to have depopulated : — 

" All sad, all silent ! o'er tlie car 
No sound of cheerful toil is swelling ; 



112 ROAD TO ROME. 

Earth has no quickening spirit here, 
Nature no charm, and man no dwelling." 

From the hills, beyond Baccano, the traveller 
discerns the 

" Vast and wondrous dome, 
To which Diana's marvel was a cell," 

and, after crossing the Tiber at the Ponte Molle, 
enters the city by the Via Flaminia. 

Note. — In a small work lately published by Galignani, "Brief Advice 
to Travellers in Italy," the authoress says, " Fair Florence stands first of 
the above-mentioned cities (Rome and Pisa), for badness of climate and 
company. Naples comes next, both being of a mixed kind. Florence is 
cold in winter, hot in summer, and damp at all times. It is the winter 
that is dangerous to health, being foggy, windy, and rainy, and exceedingly 
apt to attack the throat : the teeth and eyes have their share of the 
compliment. The Lung' Arno is the most tempting situation, but dampest 
in winter and hottest in summer." She prefers the town to the villas for 
the summer, in which I differ from her, the villas raised above the level 
of the valley being more exposed to the air, and less affected by the 
reflection of the sun's rays from the sun-ounding hills. — As regards Nice, 
I need not dwell upon what Mrs. Carleton says of its peculiarities during 
the seasons when it is deserted by visitors ; but I do not agree with her 
■statement as to the dampness of the Croix de Marbre; and some of the 
residents with whom I have spoken deny that any of the houses are built 
vipon piles. Winter visitors, however-, need not be under apprehension of 
the effects of damp and malaria from a residence at any part of Nice, 
dryness being the prevailing characteristic of the climate at this season. 



CHAPTER Vii. 



ROME - CHURCUES AND PICTURE GALLERIES - ENVIRONS - ROMAN 

CHARACTERISTICS — THE CLERGY - PROSELYTISM — CHURCH 

CEREMONIES— MALARIA— CLIMATE AND COMPLAINTS IN 

WHICH IT IS BENEFICIAL. 



The symmetrical aspect of the Piazza del 
Popolo, its fine obelisk, fountains, and statues, 
with a church and handsome buildings on either 
side, together with the long vista of the Corso, 
rarely fail to impress strangers on first entering 
Rome with an idea of its magnificence. The 
relics of antiquity constantly met with, the obelisks 
and fountains with which it is embellished, and the 
meeting almost at every step members of the 
different religious orders, give Rome an appear- 
ance distinct from that of any other city ; yet, as 
an ensemble, it cannot be termed handsome. It 
possesses only one good bridge, but few squares, 
and the streets are narrow (though now much, 
better paved and cleaner than formerly), so that 
its palaces cannot be seen to advantage. 

There are few cities where it would be so 
difficult to lose one's way : three of the principal 
streets, meeting in the Piazza del Popolo, front the 
The central one, or Corso, 
1 



114 ROME. 

extends for more than a mile in a straight line, 
aiicl leads to the Capitol and the Forum. The 
Via Babuino on the left, and the Via di Ripetti 
on the right, gradually diverging from the line of 
the Corso, lead, the one to the Piazza di Spagna, 
the other to the river. From the Piazza di 
Spagna a series of streets is continued, almost in 
a straight line, cutting across the centre of the 
Corso to the Ponte St. Angelo, and on the 
opposite side of which stands the imposing mass, 
Hadrian's tomb, the 

" Superba mola 
Che fe' Adriano all' ouda Tiberina," 

(now a fortress and state prison, surmounted by 
the statue of the Archangel Michael), whence a 
dirty street leads to St. Peter's. The above-named 
are the most frequented streets, and the majority 
of strangers reside in the neighbourhood of the 
Piazza di Spagna. 

The Piazza di S. Pietro is unique, and defies 
criticism. The massive and lofty pillars of its 
colonnades, ranged in a semicircle on either side, 
enclosing a vast area, in the centre of which are 
two splendid jets d'eau, and the finest obelisk in 
Europe, together with the facade and dome of 
St. Peter's, form a most striking and magnificent 
coup d'osil. The interior of the church is sur- 
passingly gi^and ; its size and the harmony of its 
proportions ^an only be properly appreciated 
after the several parts have been repeatedly 
viewed in detail — 



ROME. 115 

" Vastncsa which grows, but grows to harniouize, 
All musical in its immensities : 
Rich marbles — richer paintings — shrines where flame 
The lamps of gold ; and haughty dome that vies 
In air with earth's chief structures, though their frame 
Sits on the firm-set ground." 

There are, however, no paintings, though th(^ 
magnificent mosaics might easily be mistaken for 
paintings without a close inspection. The most 
remarkable are the Raising St. Petronilla, the 
Communion of St. Jerome, and the Transfigura- 
tion. 

The Pantheon, now transformed into a church, 
is a noble remnant of antiquity, and in admirable 
preservation. It is of a circular form, ha\'ing an 
aperture twenty-six feet in diameter in the roof. 
The interior is adorned with several elegant 
fluted marble pillars, between which altars are 
placed. The portico consists of sixteen circular 
granite pillars, each of which is a single piece, 
thirty-nine feet high, and fourteen feet in cir- 
cumference, with an entablature and pediment 
of proportionate magnitude. 

Among the other princi^^jal cliurchcs, wliich the 
stranger will be gratified by repeatedly visiting, 
may be mentioned the St. Giovanni in Laterano, 
whence there is a good view of part of the 
Campagna, with tlie aqueducts and Tivoli,andin 
the vaults of which is a rfir/d^fi/rtr of Bernini — 
the group of the Saviour dead, and supporl(>d on 
the lap of his mother; the Santa INlaria Maggiore; 
the Santa Maria degli Angeli, formerly part of 



116 ROME. 

Dioclesiau's baths, several of the colossal granite 
pillars of which still support the roof; the 
Jesuit's church, after St. Peter's the richest 
in Rome ; the San Stephano Rotondo, formerly a 
temple of a circular form, and the S. Pietro in 
Vincoli, in which will be admired the figure of 
Moses seated, which is considered the chefd'oeuvre 
of Michael Angelo : — 

" Quel ch'a par sciilpe e colora 
Michel pill che mortale, Angel divino." 

The church of St. Paul, two miles from Rome, 
will, when completed, surpass all the others, 
St. Peter's excepted, in size and richness of 
decoration. 

The Doria is perhaps the handsomest of the 
Roman palaces, and contains one of the richest 
galleries of pictures, among which the attention 
will be more especially attracted to the two 
celebrated Claudes, viz., the Molino, and the 
Sacrifice to Apollo; the Madonna, by Sasso- 
Ferrata, the Flight into Egypt, the Assumption, 
and the Visitation, by Annibale Caracci ; a Mag- 
dalen, by Murillo ; Belisarius, by Salvator Rosa ; 
and Queen Joan of Naples, by Leonardo da 
Vinci. In the Borghese palace will be particrdarly 
remarked Diana and her Nymphs, by Domeni- 
chino; the Cumean Sibyl, by the same painter; the 
Deposition from the Cross, by Raphael ; the same 
subject, by Garofolo ; four pictures of the Seasons, 
by Albano ; and Cesar Borgia, by RaphaeL 



ROME. 117 

The Barbarini contains three of the best 
pictures in Rome, viz., the Ccnci, by Guide ; the 
Fornarina, by Raphael ; and a Female Slave, by 
Titian. Joseph and Potiphar's Wife is also a 
fine picture. 

In the Sciarra Palace will be especially noticed 
two small landscapes by Claude ; Moses, by 
Guido ; Modesty and Vanity, by Leonardo da 
Vinci; Gamesters, by Caravaggio; the Magdalen, 
delle Raclici, by Guido ; Landscapes, by Paul 
Brill ; Beheading of St. John, by Valentin ; 
Portrait of a Youth, by Raphael ; Shepherds 
Regarding a Skull on a Tomb, by Schidone. In 
the Quirinal are Saul and David, by Guercino ; 
the xlscension, by Vandyck ; and the Annuncia- 
tion, by Guido, which forms the altar-piece of 
the Pope's private chapel. The Rospigliosi also 
contains a few good pictures, but the principal 
attraction to this palace is the fine fresco painting 
on the ceiling of one of the apartments, Aurora, 
by Guido: — 

" mark again the coursers of the sun, 
At Guido's call then- round of glory run ; 
Again the rosy hours resume their flight, 
Obscured and lost in floods of golden light." — Rogers. 

But perhaps the most interestmg as weU as the 
largest of all the private collections, since the 
dispersion of Cardinal Fcsch's, is that of the 
Corsini Palace. The following are a few of the 
best pictures : — several representations of the 
Madonna, by Carlo Maratta ; three heads of the 



118 . ROME. 

Saviour, by Carlo Dolce, Guiclo, and Giiercino ; 
the latter is the most esteemed ; Madonna and 
Infant, by Caravaggio ; Herodias with the Head 
of St. John, by Guido; a large MuriLlo, the 
Madonna and Child, one of the finest productions 
of this painter; a splendid Landscape, by Poussin; 
Sleeping Cupid, by Guido ; an Interior, with 
Cattle, by Teniers ; Prometheus Bound, by 
Salvator Rosa ; a Water-piece, by the same ; and 
a similar subject by Yernet. 

In the Palazzo Spada is shown the statue of 
Pompey, said to be the same at the base of which 
"great Csesar fell." Here likewise are, a fine 
picture, representing the Death of Dido, by 
Guercino; Paul III., by Titian; Cardinal Spada, 
by Guido ; and a head of Seneca, by Salvator 
Rosa. In the court-yard is an admirable per- 
spective, from which the jjlan of the great stair- 
case of the Vatican is said to have been taken. 

The Palazzo Colonna contains the handsomest 
saloon in Rome, and some good pictures, as do 
also several other palaces mentioned in the guide- 
books, where will be found detailed accounts of 
the different galleries, of which I have only 
mentioned a few of the most striking pieces. In 
the garden of the Colonna lies an immense 
fragment of an entablature, supposed to have 
been part of the Temple of the Sun. Here also 
are some of the ruins of the baths of Constantine. 

The pictures in the Vatican are few in number, 
but all choice ones. Among them may be jiar- 



ROME, 119 

ticularized the large picture of the Transligura- 
tion, by Raphael, considered hi^chefcVocuvre; the 
Communion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino, 
second only to the former, and placed opposite to 
it. These pictm-es are seen to great advantage 
from the outer rooms, by looking through the 
door-way, the light being thus more strongly 
concentrated upon them. In the same room is 
the Madonna di Foligno. In the adjoining- 
rooms, the Martyrdom of St. Peter, by Guide ; 
St. Sebastian, by Titian ; the Saviour with the 
Globe at his Feet, by Correggio ; and Cows, by 
Paul Potter. 

The walls and ceiling of the Stanze di Raffaelle 
are covered mth the celebrated fresco paintmgs 
of this great master, the description of which, 
with those of the Loggia, or open galleries, would 
hU a volume. Among the statues, the first 
objects naturally sought for are the Apollo 
Belvedere and the Laocoon, wliich one can 
scarcely tire of beholding ; the latter especially 
has a fine appearance by torchlight. They are 
judiciously placed by themselves in separate 
cabinets, as are also the Antinous and INIeleager. 
The celebrated Torso, immediately at the top of 
the staircase, produces a fine effect, seen througli 
the long vista of the gallery. In the HaU of 
the Nile, the statues of Minerva, Esculapius, 
Demosthenes, and the large group of the Nile, 
will be more particidarly remarked. Some of (he 
figures and colossal masks in this liall an^ also 



120 ROME. 

seen to the greatest advantage by torchlight. In 
other parts of this immense edifice, which may 
be repeatedly visited with interest, are the 
museums of the Egyptian and Etruscan anti- 
quities ; the richly decorated hall of the library, 
the Sistine Chapel, containing the celebrated 
fresco of the Last Judgment, by Michael Angelo, 
the Mosaic Manufactory, &c., which have been 
repeatedly described by travellers, but of which 
no description can convey an accurate idea : — 

" I peregrini marmi in varie forme sculti 
Pitture e getti, e tant' altro lavoro, 
Mostran che non bastaro a tante mole, 
Pi venti re insieme le riccbezze sole," 

Ariosto. 

" Go, and insatiate o'er and o'er 
Til' exhaustless Vatican explore; 
Thro' labyrinthine courts pursue, 
Thro' galleries lengthening on the view. 
Hall after ball, dome after dome, 
Treasuries of Egypt, Greece, and Rome, 
Where all above, around, beneath, 
The marble generations breathe. 
And plundered tombs theii* wrecks supply. 
To line the walls with imag'ry ; 
And golden roofs their radiance throw 
O'er rich mosaics spread below. 
And fountains in perpetual play 
Temper with sparkling show'rs the day." 

Sotheby. 

In the rich collection of the Capitol will be 
more particularly noticed, on the ground-floor, 
the bas reliefs on the sarcophagus of Severus; 



ROME. 121 

in the centre of the first room, on ascendmg, the 
celebrated gladiator — 

" Whose manly brow 
Consents to death, but conquers agony ; " 

Avith several other fine statues. Among those in 
the adjoining apartments, the most remarkable 
are the Faun, in rosso-antico ; the Centaurs, in 
ncro-antico ; Caius Marius ; a Prefica, or hired 
mourner ; the colossal Hercules, in bronze gilt ; 
and the busts of the emperors, senators, and 
philosoj)hers of ancient Rome, especially those of 
Augustus, Caligula, Galba, Virgil, Socrates. The 
Venus of the Capitol is one of the finest and 
best preserved pieces of ancient sculpture, pre- 
ferred by some to the Venus de Medicis. It is 
kept in a separate cabinet, and only opened on 
special application. 

Among the best pictures in the collection of 
the Capitol may be enumerated, a Cumean Sibyl, 
by Domenichino (inferior to that in the Borghese); 
another Sibyl, by Guercino; Romulus and Remus 
discovered with the Wolf, by Rubens ; Marriage 
of St. Catherine, by Correggio; the Resurrection 
of St.Petronilla, an immense picture, by Guercino; 
and the Europa, by Paul Veronese. 

One of the best points for viewing Rome is 
from the tower of the Capitol, whence on the one 
side is seen the modern city, with St. Peter's, and 
on the other, lying immediately beneath, the 
]uins of ancient Rome — 



122 



" Partout confusement dans la poiissiiire epars 
Les thermes, les palais, les tombeaiix des Cesars," 



with the stupendous mass of the Coliseum pre- 
eminently conspicuous above the rest : — 

" Around the wrecks of Eome 
The Coliseum lifts its brow sublime ; 
And, looking down on all that moves below, 
O'er all the restless range, 

Where war and violence have worked their change, 
Tow'rs motionless, and wide around it throws 
The shadow of its strength — its own subhme repose."* 

Beyond the ruins lies the " weary waste " of the 
Campagna, intersected by the remains of aque- 
ducts — 

" Arches on arches, range by range, extending " 

towards the Latian hills, on which are seen the 
towns of Frascati and Tivoli, the whole forming 
a prospect unequalled for variety and interest. 

The other pomts whence the most advantageous 
views of the city and its environs are obtained 
are the dome of St. Peter's, or the Monte Mario, 
which, though less extensive, is perhaps the more 
interesting, as St. Peter's itself forms a prominent 
object in the view ; the roof of the Doria Pam- 
phili Villa (the spacious grounds of which are one 
of the pleasantest walking places), and from the 
fountain Paolina, in the same direction, but 
within the walls. On the opposite side, a fine 

* Sotheby's Italy. 



J 



ROME. 123 

view, particularly of the Canipagiia, its acqiiediicts 
and ruins, may be enjoyed by ascending to the 
roof of the Villa Patrizi, outside the Porta Pia, 
and likewise fi:om that of the villa on the aque- 
duct to the left of St. Giovanni in Laterano. 
The Pincian hill, which is the fashionable after- 
noon promenade, and the only spot where, during 
the prevalence of the sirocco, a little fresh air 
can be breathed, is also one of the most favour- 
able points for viewing Rome and St. Peter's, 
which, when seen at sunset, has a magnificent 
appearance. From this hill Claude Lorraine was 
in the habit of watching the sinking sun make 
his " golden set," 

" Not as iu northeru climes obscurely bright, 
But one imclouded blaze of living light," 

and noting the varied tints produced in " the 
bright tract of his fiery car," which few besides 
himself have been able to represent with such 
fidelity, and without aj^pearing to exaggerate. 

Of the various villas near Pome, the Borghese 
and Albani requii'e especial mention. Tlie beau- 
tiful grounds of the former, close to the Porta del 
Popolo, shaded by the ilex and by lofty maritime 
pines, are the most usual resort of equestrians 
and pedestrians, who may there enjoy either 
society or seclusion. The house itself is almost un- 
inhabitable, on account of the prevalence of the 
malaria in the summer and autumn. Tt contains, 
l)crhaps, the must magnificent private collection 



124 



ROME. 



of statues extant, which is especially remarkable 
for its symmetrical arrangement, there being 
corresponding objects on either side in each 
apartment. On entering the great hall, the 
attention will be particularly attracted to the 
alto-relievo in the centre, of Curtius on horse- 
back, throwing himself into the gulf; the colossal 
statues and busts on each side, and the old mosaic 
pavements. The Saloon of Hercules is like- 
wise extremely interesting, being filled with the 
statues of the demi-god, and bas-reliefs illustrative 
of his history. But the principal saloon sur- 
passes everything else in the richness of its 
treasures, and the symmetry with which they are 
disposed. The series of porphyry busts of the 
emperors, ranged along three sides of the apart- 
ment, add greatly to the effect. In the rooms on 
the first floor are the group Apollo and Daphne, 
by Bernini, and the Venus Vincitrice, of Canova, 
for which the Princess Pauline Borghese sat as a 
model. 

The Villa Albani likewise contains a rich 
collection of statues, and is adorned A\ith 
marbles, frescoes, and mosaics. The alto-relievo 
of Antinous, the Apollo and small Hercules, of 
Glycon, in bronze, will be particularly remarked. 

No place ofl"ers more resource for amusement 
and mental recreation for the winter months than 
Rome, whether the visitor be interested in the 
innumerable works of art which fill its galleries 
and studii, or whether he prefer strolling among 



ROME. 125 

the remnants of fallen grandenr. If fond of 
walking, whichever way he directs his steps 
some object of interest will be fonnd ; if of 
riding, few localities are better adapted to this 
exercise than the environs of the city. There is 
not, however, as much resource for those who 
delight in reading as at Florence, which is better 
supplied with books. 

General society is upon an easy footing at 
Rome, and is very accessible to persons properly 
introduced, though the Romans do not receive 
English visitors at their own houses, unless 
specially known to them ; they have, however, 
numerous reunions among themselves, to which 
those of the English who have introductions to 
them, particularly if they be Catholics, are 
invited. 

The Romans are more sedate, reserved, and 
dignified in their demeanour than the rest of the 
Italians, and form a strong contrast in this respect 
with their neighbours, the Neapolitans. They 
cultivate the fine arts less than the Tuscans, and 
are but little addicted to literary, scientific, or 
intellectual pursuits; most of the upper classes 
being content with a monotonous daily round of 
existence, their drive along the Corso in the 
afternoon, and reunion in the evening, varied by 
a visit to the opera. In fact, they are habitually 
inclined to indolence, to which they are further 
predisposed by their climate, and having no 
stimulus or motive to exertion. As Eustace, who 



126 ROME. 

was a Catholic clergyman, justly observed, " In a 
free country mental improvement brings with it 
its own reward, oftentimes rank and fortune. It is 
both necessary and fashionable, and cannot be 
dispensed with by any individual who means to 
attain or keep a place in society. In a despotic 
government these motives are wanting ; the 
drudgery necessary for the acquisition of in- 
formation is rewarded only by the consciousness 
of intellectual superiority, an advantage of too 
little weight in countries where mental attain- 
ments are too much undervalued to attract 
attention or excite envy. Hence, after having 
passed through the ordinary course of college 
education, or loitered away a few years with a 
private tutor, the noble youth of the continent, 
if not employed in the army, sink into domestic 
indolence, and fritter away life in the endless 
frivolities of a town society."* 

The middle class likewise bear themselves 
more independently, and are less tricky than the 
people in some other parts of Italy. Many of 
the shopkeepers and tradespeople appear to care 
little about being employed, and will frequently 
not put themselves out of the way to serve a 
customer, or abate anything of the price they 
have first asked, even though it be much more 

* These remarks arc, however, more applicable to the Romans in the 
time of Gregory than since the accession of Pius, and the formation of a 
representative legislature, but may serve to show the state of mattei-s 
before the present era. The recent political changes will, doubtless, greatly 
alter the Italian character. 



UOME. 127 

than the article is Avorth. The majority of the 
lower orders and the peasantry are remarkable for 
their personal beauty, which, however, in females 
soon fades, and they are apt to become very stout 
after five or six-and-twenty. The Trasteverini, 
who regard themselves as the descendants of the 
ancient Romans, are a particularly fine-looking 
race, haughty, and somewhat sullen in their 
demeanour, intermarrying among themselves, 
associating little more than is necessary with 
others, and, though ignorant and superstitious, 
they are for the most part moral in their domestic 
relations. In fact, there is less evident im- 
morality in Rome than perhaps any other city. 
Cicisbeism is abolished, ladies being seen as 
frequently escorted by their husbands as in 
France; and notwithstanding what has been said 
by some travellers, who, passing rapidly through 
the country, appear to have taken their ideas of 
the people from the writings of Forsyth, Lady 
Morgan, and other authors of a quarter of a 
century ago, nothing would now be seen in 
general society calculated to shock les hiensmnces 
any more than in the salons of Paris or London, 
for at the present day it may truly be said of the 
higlior classes in most capitals, as far as the 
supei-ficics is concerned, that 

" Society is smoollicd to tliat excess, 
Ami manners difl'er iiardly more tlian dress." 

Street murders and robberies are likewise 



128 ROME. 

much more rare than formerly; when attempts 
at assassination do occur, they are mostly con- 
fined to the inferior classes, and originate in 
private quarrels, or from jealousy. 

As may be expected, the members of the 
different ecclesiastical bodies, from the prelate 
to the mendicant friar, form a large proportion of 
the population, and their appearance in the streets, 
or in the religious ceremonies, clad in the same 
costumes as were seen centuries ago, constitutes 
a feature peculiar to Rome. Many of the clergy 
are exceedingly well-informed, and several among 
them are persons of great learning and attam- 
ments. As a body they are zealous, and no 
doubt are chiefly instrumental in preventing the 
appearance of open immorality, so common in 
large cities, though on public occasions, and at 
the church ceremonies, there certainly seems to 
be frequently more straining after effect than a 
disposition to encourage religious contemplation 
or fervour of worship. Be this as it may, there 
is little doubt that a large proportion of the 
spectators, and the majority of foreigners, attend 
the splendid church ceremonies merely as a 
spectacle; nor is it easy for Protestants to reconcile 
them with their ideas of religion. Except upon 
these occasions, the churches are not very fully 
attended, the bulk of the congregations- being 
usually composed of Avomen and persons of the 
lower class. 

The attempts on the part of the Catholic 



ROME. 129. 

priesthood to make converts to Catholicism, are 
said to have been very successful, both on the 
continent and in this country, especially among 
the more impressionable sex. A principal cause 
of this success is, doubtless, in many instances, 
not so much from a conviction of the superiority 
of the CathoHc form of worship, as from the 
circumstance that their clergy mix more with 
the people, and are, at all times, nccessible to 
persons who require that relief of spiritual con- 
solation under the various trying circumstances 
of life, which members of the ecclesiastical 
profession arc best calculated to impart. This 
is, doubtless, likewise a reason of the success of 
Dissenters in England. 

Few pageants exceed in magnificence that of 
the Pope's being carried in state into St. Peter's 
on the occasions when he performs high mass, 
preceded by a long double file of cardinals and 
prelates, attended by the noble guards, and by 
the Swiss in their picturesque costume, with the 
people kneeling to receive his blessing as he 
passes. The benediction, from the balcony of 
the facade^ of the people on Christmas and 
Easter days, has also a particularly fine effect, 
the number of persons assembled and kneeling 
in the spacious Place often amounting to u})wards 
of 100,000. 

Of the other sights at Easter, those best worth 
attending are the illumination of the facade and 
dome ot" the chunh, which is uniqiif in its way, 

K 



130 ROME. 

the whole bemg lighted up in a few seconds ; 
and the Girandola^ or display of fire-works from 
the Castle of St. Angelo. The rest are scarcely 
worth the trouble and crushing which must be 
undergone. 

The Carnival at Rome is better than elsewhere, 
but, in the new order of things, will doubtless, 
together mth the above-mentioned ceremonies, 
be in future superseded. 

Literature and science are at a low ebb in the 
Roman states, being but little encouraged. Com- 
paratively few books are published, as there is no 
security of copyright in Italy, and a valuable 
work might be printed in any of the other states, 
and sold at a low price, mthout the author's 
being able to obtain any compensation. As 
Rome has little commerce and no manufactures, 
except those of mosaics, cameos, and other objects 
of taste, a great portion of the inhabitants mainly 
depend upon the influx of strangers for the 
season, which is as universally calculated upon 
as at a watering-place. Without its climate, 
antiquities, and works of art, which are the 
chief inducements for strangers to select it as a 
temporary residence, Rome would soon lose a 
large portion of its population, as house-rent and 
taxes are high, compared with other parts of 
Italy, and the summer is unhealthy, from the 
prevalence of malaria. 

The finances of the government are in a very 
depressed condition, and the people complain 



ROME. 131 

that their elective form of goveriuuent is worse 
than an absolute liereditary so'S'ercignty, inasmuch 
as the chief of the state, being generally an old 
man before he is called to the throne, is chiefly 
occupied in enriching his relatives, and has no 
interest in the general welfare of the country. 
During the late Pope's reign the national debt 
is said to have been increased by fourteen millions 
of dollars. 

The present Pope is a hale man of about fifty- 
six, Avith a countenance in Avhich benevolence 
and firmness are combined. The impetus given 
by the measures which, shortly after his accession, 
he adopted, has doubtless tended to accelerate the 
course of the astounding events which have lately 
agitated Europe, and it remains to be seen how 
far they will be beneficial to the country, by de- 
veloping its resources. Much has already been 
done ; delegates from the provinces forming a 
deliberative assembly; many abuses of the ancient 
regime abolished ; and beneficial alterations in all 
the departments of government eff"ected. Railroads 
and the cultivation of the Campagna, with other 
improvements, are in contemplation, and there is 
little doubt that the administration will, by 
degrees, become less and less ecclesiastical. The 
chief power rests with the civic guard, whose 
costume, with the ancient Roman helmet and 
short sword, is neat and becoming. As another 
Pius is scarcely to be expected, he may most 
likely be considered as the last Pope who 



132 ROME. 

will hold the temporal sceptre of the Roman 
state.* 

Medicine and surgery are in a very backward 
condition in Rome, as compared with most parts 
of Europe. The hospitals are richly endowed, 
but, though somewhat improved of late, are still 
in a state of great neglect ; the largest of them, 
St. Spirito, for the reception of patients of the 
male sex, contains about 1,400 beds. The num- 
ber occupied varies greatly, according to the 
season, being much smaller in winter and spring 
than in summer and autumn, when the inter- 
mittent and malaria fevers are prevalent. The 
hospital St. Giacomo, on the Corso, is appropriated 
to surgical diseases and operations, the mortality 
after which is great. 

Inflammation of the lungs is prevalent in 
winter and spring, though less so than at Flo- 
rence and Naples. Bronchial affections, rheu- 
matism, and diseases of the eyes, are also less 
common. Gastric irritation and visceral engorge- 
ment are of frequent occurrence, especially in the 
warm months. Consumption is not frequent, 
unless when it ensues upon neglected inflamma- 

* From the more rapid course of revolutionary movements of late, 
a republic would doubtless have been proclaimed at Rome but for the 
respect in which Pius is individually held. The city itself will doubtless 
suffer for some time from the comparative paucity of its accustomed 
winter visitors. The prediction of Fleming, in a pamphlet published in 
1701, and now reprinted, "The Decline and Fall of the Papal Power in 
1848," may be considered as verified, the sovereignty being now merely 
nominal. 



ROME. 135 

tioii. Sudden death, called by the Italians acci- 
dente, frequently occurs, to which the stillness of 
the air, the indolent mode of life, and the habit 
of eating suppers on returning from the theatre 
or from soirees^ no doubt predispose. Nervous 
affections are also very general, especially the 
morbid sensibility of the olfactory nerves, with 
respect to flowers and perfumes, which sometimes 
exists in such a high degree as to occasion con- 
vulsive attacks. This peculiar antipathy to 
perfumes is likewise met with in some other 
Italian cities, and English residents, who have 
become acclimated, are also liable to be affected 
in a similar manner. Intermittent and other 
fevers are endemic in the summer and autumn, 
at wliicli periods the hospitals are crowded with 
patients from the country, and, as bark is the 
principal remedy employed to combat the disease, 
the consumption of this medicine is enormous. 
Tlie insalubrity of the seasons is in a direct ratio 
to the heat and to the quantity of rain that has 
fallen ; but, since the improved drainage of the 
Pontine marshes, these fevers have diminished in 
frequency and severity. One of the most com- 
mon exciting causes, accortling to Sir J. Clark, is 
exposure , to currents of cold air, or chills in 
damp places, after tlie body has been heated by 
exercise ; irregularity of diet, poorness of livings 
or, in fact, any circumstances which tend to 
depress the powers of the system may act as 
predisi)osiiig causes. Thu.s, strangers resorting 



134: ROME. 

to E,ome are much less liable to be affected the 
first year of their residence than in the subsequent 
years, when the body has become relaxed and 
enervated by the influence of the climate. The 
wearing of flannel is a good precautionary mea- 
sure. There is no doubt that malaria frequently 
remains for some time latent in the constitution, 
giving rise, at a future period, to various diseases, 
which are seldom attributed to it. Neuralgic 
complaints may often be traced to this cause, as 
may likewise some paralytic and other affections, 
as well as intermittent fevers, wliich frequently 
do not appear while persons are under the excite- 
ment of travelling, but subsequently, perhaps 
after the interval of several months from the time 
that the person was exposed to the influence of 
this poisonous agent. 

Dr. J. Johnson, who, from his long residence 
in India, is one of the persons best calculated to 
give an opinion on tliis subject, agrees with others 
who have investigated the nature of this noxious 
agent, when he says, " It rises fi'om the soil -s^dth 
the watery exhalations of the day, and falls with 
the dews of night. It appears to be in mechanical 
mixture with the air, not in chemical solution. 
Being heavier than the atmosphere, it gravitates 
to the surface in still weather, and when carried 
along with the winds, it does not appear to rise 
very high or extend very far, except in such a 
state of dilution as to be nearly harmless. (There 
are, however, exceptions to this). Thus, a cur- 



ROME. 135 

rent of aii- coming from a malarious ground is 
strained, as it were, by passing thi'ough a wood 
or grove of trees ; a portion of elevated ground, 
or a high wall, will often arrest its progress. 
Hence the suburbs of Rome are more exposed to 
malaria than the city, and the open streets and 
squares more than the narrow lanes in the centre 
of the metropolis. The low, crowded, and 
abominably filthy quarter of the Jews, on the 
banks of the Tiber, may probably owe its acknow- 
ledged freedom from the fatal malaria to its 
sheltered site and dense population." 

With reference to malaria, Mrs. Carleton 
observes, " The appearance of a place does not 
always] betray its insalubrity, for some spots are 
dangerous that seem dry and airy. The Piazza 
del Popolo, for instance, and also, to a certain 
distance, the three streets that terminate at that 
point — the nearer the river the worse — so that the 
whole of the Via Ripetta is subject to tliis 
noxious influence. The Corso, and the Via 
Babuino, become more healthy as they approach 
the Post-office. High situations are in general 
more secure than low ones, but height is luiavail- 
ing if the hill be not sufficiently inhabited. The 
height of a house is better security than the 
height of a hill, because the upper story removes 
us from the earth, which is the receptacle of the 
noxious principle ; accordingly the second and 
third floors are as dear as the first, and mudi 
dearer than the ground-floor. 'Jlic Palazzo Poli, 



1 36 ROME. 

and the vicinity of the Fontana di Trevi are 
healthy, and so are all the streets leading from 
the port towards the Piazza di Spagna, but all 
the houses against the Trinita di Monti should 
be looked upon with a suspicious eye. The Pincian 
Hill and the Piazza Barberini are still more salu- 
brious than the Piazza di Spagna, and not so dear. 
The Trinita di Monti is one of the most delightful 
situations in Rome. From thence the situation is 
healthy all the way to the Quattro Fontane." 

In winter, however, there is little reason to 
apprehend the effects of malaria, and any part of 
the city in which visitors are accommodated is per- 
fectly habitable ; though crrcumstances may lead 
to a preference of one locality over another. 

The climate of Pome is milder, and the winter 
shorter and less severe than in other parts of 
Italy. The air is soft, but at times oppressive, 
and is very apt to cause depression of spirits in 
healthy persons. Its mean winter temperature, 
according to Sir J, Clark, is ten degrees higher 
than London, seven higher than Pan, and one 
liighcr than Nice. In spring it is nine degrees 
above London, three above Pau, one above Nice, 
one colder than Naples, and four below Madeii'a. 
Sir James states also that, with respect to steadi- 
ness of temperature from day to day, Pome 
precedes Naples and Pau, but comes after Nice 
and Pisa; that a third more rain falls than at 
Nice, but it is considerably drier than at Pisa. 
A frequent cause, however, of dampness at Pome, 



ROME. 137 

is the stagnation of the air, and the exhalation 
from the earth after sun-set, of whicli foreigners 
are sometimes very sensible. The difference in 
the temperature of the air is also very marked, 
within the short space of half-an-hour at this 
time of the day ; consequently strangers, but 
especially invalids, should always be provided 
with an extra garment to put on when out of 
doors. From the tables appended to Sir J. Clark's 
work, it appears that more rain falls throughout 
the year in Rome than in London ; the mean 
quantity being 31 inches in the former, and 24 
in the latter ; the number of days on which rain 
falls in London, on an average throughout the 
year, is 178, while at Rome it is only 117 ; but it 
must be borne in mind that small quantities at a 
time, or showers, are very common in England, 
while at Home the rain more frequently falls 
violently, and at particular seasons, leaving a 
longer interval of fine weather. About the same 
(juantity of rain falls at Florence as at Rome, 
though, from the comparative stillness of the 
Roman atmosphere, and from that of Florence 
being frequently agitated by winds, the climate 
of the latter city is not oppressive like that of 
Rome, which not unfrequently disposes to melan- 
clioly, and to nervous affections, after a prolonged 
residence, but more especially during the ])re- 
valence of the sirocco wind, Avhich, however, 
agrees very well with tlie majority of the Romans, 
and with many invalid^s. The tramontana some- 



1 38 ROME. 

times prevails during several days in succession, 
and affects persons prejudicially so much the 
more easily from the previous mildness and 
relaxing quality of the air. Many strangers who 
expose themselves to its influence without being 
well clothed, especially if driving against it in an 
open carriage, or on horse-back, experience the 
bad effect of their negligence : delicate invalids 
should, on these occasions, confine themselves to 
the house, or only go out in a close carriage. 
Both valetudinarians and people in health should 
likewise take proper precautions against the great 
and sudden transitions of temperature, which are 
invariably experienced in going from the open 
air, when the sun is shining, into the cold picture 
and statue galleries or churches. I may mention, 
as a proof of the great difference of temperature 
to which persons frequently subject themselves, 
that of two thermometers placed in a window at 
the same time, the one on the sunny side exhibited 
91 degrees, Fahrenheit, while the mercury of 
that in the shade stood only at 45. 

Dr. Johnson justly observed, in his work on 
"Change of Air," "The very circumstance which 
forms the charm, the attraction, the theme of 
praise in the Italian climate, is that which 
renders it dangerous, because deceitful, viz., the 
long intervals of fine weather between vicissi- 
tudes of great magnitude. This is the bane of 
Italy, whose brilliant suns and balmy zephyrs 
flatter only to betray. They first enervate the 



ROME. 139 

constitution, and when tlie body is ripe for the im- 
pression of the tramontana, tliat ruthless blast de- 
scends from the mountains on its hapless victims." 
We cannot, however, wonder that so many of 
our coimtrymen, who do not see the dark side of 
the question, shoidd have allowed themselves to 
be captivated by the bright skies of Italy, and 
the delightful temperature of a large proj)ortion 
of the winter days, when it may be truly said that 

" Ein sanfter wiud von blauen niminel wclit," 

and, as somebody has elsewhere said, one feels 
mere existence to be a pleasure, or, as the poet 
has expressed it — 

" Simply to feel that we breathe, that we live, 
Is worth the best joys that life elsewhere can give," 

on comparing them with the fogs, humidity, and 
variable weather of their native land ; and there 
is no question that persons in health may, by 
taking due precautions against the transitions of 
temperature, derive all the ad^^antage and gratifi- 
cation afforded by the climate during the winter 
months, without danger of their health being 
prejudicially affected; but that, on the other 
liand, a long residence in Italy (especially at 
Rome), or even returning thither durhig several 
successive winters, docs, in many cases, materially 
impair the health — frequently without the cause 
being suspected — or, at all events, enervates the 
constitution, thus (hminisliiiig- tlie vigour of (lie 
body and tlie energy of the mind. 



140 ROME. 

The relaxation and oppression of spirits pro- 
duced by the stillness of the atmosphere, especially 
during the prevalence of the sirocco, may generally 
be removed in some degree by a canter on horse- 
back; the person thus carried rapidly through 
the air, without active exertion, being in much 
the same condition as if he were himself stationary, 
and the air agitated by winds. Many people, 
after two or three months' residence at Rome, 
feel themselves relaxed and out of health ; this 
indisposition may generally be removed by an 
excursion for a fortnight or three weeks to Naples, 
Florence, or even Albano. 

On the whole, Rome may be considered as the 
best residence in Italy for patients labouring 
under consumption, though, in the advanced 
stages, little benefit can be expected ; and since 
the climates of the continent have been better 
understood by the profession in England, the 
number of those who are sent out while labouring 
under irremediable disease is much less than 
formerly ; and comparatively few invalids have 
latterly resorted to Rome, the great majority of the 
English being composed of families, and travellers 
for pleasure. In the tendency to consumption, 
and in the early stage of this disease, much 
advantage may, however, be frequently derived 
from wintering at Rome for two or three succes- 
sive years; but persons similarly circumstanced 
should not, in general, remain throughout the 
sunnnei in Italy. In some cases, Pisa agrees 



ROME. 141 

better than Home, in others Nice, especially when 
the complaint is of a scrofulous origin, and the 
patient is of a torpid or phlegmatic temperament, 
marked by a slow, languid circulation; whereas 
in the opposite condition, which is characterized 
by a florid complexion, accelerated circulation 
and respiration, Pisa or Rome would be pre- 
ferable. In some bronchial and laryngeal diseases, 
which are not unfrequcntly mistaken for disease 
of the lungs, and which, in fact, frerpiently 
superinduce diseases of these organs, the climate 
of Rome will produce permanently beneficial 
effects, and will often contribute materially to 
their removal. Those cases marked by a tendency 
to inflammatory action, or accompanied with much 
local irritability, are in general the best adapted 
for Rome ; while those more chronic forms, 
especially in old people, and attended Avith free 
expectoration of mucus, will often derive more 
benefit from Nice or Naples ; though they would 
do well to remove from these localities in the 
sj)ring. Many dys2:>eptic, rheumatic, and gouty 
invalids, especially if of an irritable habit, Avill 
likewise derive benefit from passing the winter 
at Rome, or between Florence, Rome, and Naples. 
Rome generally agrees well with elderly people, 
and many attain there a great age. It does not 
in general suit patients witli neuralgic or nervous 
affections ; neither would a prolonged residence 
be advisable for those liable to cerebral con- 
gestion. 



142 ROME. 

It must be borne in mind that the active 
medication employed in England would not be 
well supported by those English who have long 
resided in Italy, but for those who have not been 
long enough to become acclimated I have not 
found it necessary to make any material altera- 
tion in the treatment of acute disease, or that 
such persons are much more susceptible to the 
action of remedies than they would be in England. 

As regards a summer residence in the environs, 
Mrs. Carleton observes that Tivoli and Frascati 
are both damp, and speaks favourably of Albano, 
which, indeed, is the usual resort both of the 
Romans and those strangers who remain at this 
season of the year, being perfectly cool, and far 
more healthy than Naples and its environs. " The 
sea breeze begins here at ten in the morning, and 
renders the climate so temperate that our ther- 
mometer seldom exceeded 72 of Fahrenheit, in a 
room looking full south ; yet this room looked 
down upon the Campagna, a nearly level surface, 
bathed in floods of golden light during three 
months in the year, passed without rain." 

" Albano has some noble avenues, and a wood 
belonging to Prince Doria's Villa ; from hence 
may be seen Rome, the sea, and the Apennines. 
Mount Lavinium, with its solitary tower, and 
Mount Savelli, feathered to the summit with 
trees and shrubs, add to the beauty of the 
prospect." 



CHAPTER VIII. 



NAPLES— EN\nRONS—NEArOLITAN CHARACTER— CLIMATE— ^^A LATINA 

ABBEY OF MONTE CASINO— ROAD TO FLORENCE, BY SERNI— 

JIALT A— PALERMO. 



The most frequented road to Naples traverses 
the Campagna, intersected by long lines of aque- 
ducts as far as Albano. The country between 
Albano and Aricia is picturesque, but beyond Vel- 
letri the road descends to the Pontine marshes, 
through which it is carried in a straight line for 
twenty-five miles, a great part of the way along 
the bank of the canal, into which the water from 
the marshes is drained. For this distance not a 
habitation is to be seen except the half-way post 
station, and scarcely a living being, 

" Save the herdsmau and his herd, 
Savage alike," 

and an occasional wayfarer along the road. The 
marshes arc bounded on the east by the cliain of 
Apennines, on the acclivities of which are two or 
three towns (formerly the resort of banditti), and 
by Terracina on the south. The Circean pro- 
montory is seen for a considerable distance, and 



144 NAPLES. 

is the only striking object to attract the attention. 
Terracina is situate on the shore, at the base of 
a bold and precipitous rock, washed by the sea, 
and where the marshes terminate. It was also 
formerly celebrated in the annals of brigandage, 
but those days are gone, and travelling is now as 
safe in Italy as in other civilized states of Europe, 
the governments having pretty effectually put a 
stop to the system of highway robbery, as it was 
formerly methodically pursued; and when any- 
thing of the kind now takes place, the idea and 
plan generally arise a Vimproviste among some of 
the peasantry, or idlers in the towns, if they 
think a favourable opportunity presents itself. 
As, however, a reward and pardon are generally 
offered to any who will give up their accomplices 
into the hands of justice, the perpetrators are 
almost always discovered. 

The couriers and the diligences in the Roman 
states, as also in Modena, and some parts of 
Northern Italy, are, however, still escorted by 
dragoons, one riding on either side. 

The appearance of the few people seen along 
the Pontine marshes, at the post-stations, as also 
of those of the neighbouring towns, is much less 
unhealthy than some years ago; in fact, the 
malaria has not been so destructive of late years, 
since the improved drainage, by which many 
parts which were formerly marshy can now be 
cultivated. 

Shortly after leaving Terracina, you enter the 



NAPLES. 145 

Neapolitan territory, and pass througli the miser- 
able towns of Foncli, where you are detained for 
a short time by the custom-house, and Itri, where 
a great part of the inhabitants, covered vnth 
ragged cloaks, stand scowling in the streets, and 
looking as if they regretted the Ion vieuoo 
temps, when their ancestors were enabled to raise 
forced contributions with comparative impunity. 
Between the latter to'svn and Mola di Gaeta, the 
scenery is highly interesting. From Mola, which 
stands on the sea-shore, a deHghtful view may be 
enjoyed, including, in clear weather, Vesuvius — • 

" Che fa col foco 
Chiara la notte, il di di fumo oscuro," 

which may be seen across the bay. Hence to 
Naples the country is level and extremely fertile, 
being termed the Campagna Felice. You pass 
through Capua, which, whatever might have 
been its attractions in the days of Hannibal 
(whose soldiers, we are told, were so captivated 
thereby that they passed many months in slothful 
luxury), certainly does not at present offer any 
very strong inducements even for a temporary 
sojourn. After passing through a long suburb, 
you enter Naples, and drive along the Strada 
Toledo to the quarter where strangers most do 
congregate. 

Naples is second only to Paris in tlie amount 
of its i)opulation ; the crowded and bustling 
aspect of its streets contrasts strongly with the 

L 



146 NAPLES. 

tranquillity of Eome. The author of a popular 
work gives the following account of the street 
population: — "The noise of Naples is enough to 
drive a nervous man mad. It would be difficult 
to imagine the eternal bustle and worry of the 
streets : the people bawling and roaring at each 
other in all directions ; beggars soliciting your 
charity with one hand, while with the other they 
pick your pocket of your handkerchief; the 
carriages cutting their way through the crowd, 
with which the streets are thronged, with a 
fearful rapidity. It requires the patience of Job 
to carry on any dealings with the people, who 
are a most unconscionable set. Every bargain 
is a battle, and it seems to be an established rule 
to ask, on all occasions, three times as much as is 
just." * 

The city is seen to great advantage from the 
water ; the line of white buildings extending for 
miles along the shore, and rising one above 
another on the acclivity of the hill, the summit 
of which is crowned with the Castle of St. Elmo ; 
the islands of Capri, Ischia, and Procida in the 
bay, with Cape Misenum on one side ; Vesuvius 
and the coast of Sorrento on the other, are 
generally acknowledged to form one of the finest 
prospects in Europe. Most of the houses are 
lofty, and the streets narrow, of which the 
inhabitants experience the advantage in hot 

* Diary of an Invalid. 



NAPLES. 147 

weather. With the exception of the Largo del 
Castello, in which are the palace and the theatre 
of St. Cai'los, and of the space in front of the 
handsome new chui-ch, St. Giovanni e Paulo, 
built after the design of the Pantheon, there are 
no spacious squares or places. The parts fronting 
the bay, where strangers mostly reside, are the 
Santa Lucia, Chiatamone, Chiaja, and Strada 
Vittoria. The Public Garden of the Villa Reale 
extends along the Chiaja, between the houses 
and the sea, and is prettily laid out with shrubs 
and parterres of flowers, among which serpentine 
several shady walks, of which, however, there 
is a great deficiency at Naples, The Castel del 
Uovo stands on a rock, which is only connected 
with the land by a drawbridge, between the 
Chiaja and the port. The Mole always presents 
an animated appearance, both from the movement 
among the shipping, and also from the number 
of idlers there assembled, listening to an im- 
provisatore, or a reciter of Ariosto, or laughing 
at the antics of Punch, their love for whom, 
which used to form a national characteristic, has, 
however, somewhat declined of late years. 

Of the above-mentioned situations, the Santa 
Lucia is the least eligible for invalids, on account of 
its being more exposed to cold winds, which several 
of the houses are but ill calculated to exclude.* 



* Mrs. Carleton mentions, as one of tlic best positions, the Strada Sta. 
Tlierion, and the short streets tliat cut it at riglit angles, wliicii are dry, 
sheltered, and not very noisy. 



148 NAPLES. 

The number of churches at Naples remarkable 
for beauty of architecture, or richness of interior 
decoration, is small, compared with Rome or 
Venice. Those best worth visiting are the 
St. Giovanni e Paulo, the Santa Maria Maggiore, 
and the San Martino, which is extremely rich in 
paintings and precious marbles. It stands on 
the hill, close to the Castle of St. Elmo. From 
the balcony of the adjoining convent an enchant- 
ing prospect is displayed to the view — 

" Earth one bright garden, one bright lake the sea." 

The flat roofs of the houses, seen from this 
position, present a curious and novel aspect. 
Naples possesses within itself fewer objects of 
general interest than any other Italian capital. 
The interior of the Koyal Palace, which contains 
some good pictures, may be viewed by special 
permission, for which one or two dollars must be 
paid ; but the most interesting public establish- 
ment, to which repeated visits may be made with 
satisfaction, is the Museo Borbonico, which ahnost 
equals the Vatican in the richness of its collection 
of statues, and contains, besides a picture gallery, 
the fresco paintings, mosaics, gold and silver 
ornaments, domestic utensils, Etruscan vases, &c., 
discovered in the excavations of Pompeii and 
Herculaneum. The process of deciphering the 
rolls of papyrus is extremely curious, and has 
of late made great progress. 

Among the most celebrated statues may be 



NAPLES. 149 

mentioned those of Marcus Balbus, father and 
son, on horseback, found in Herculaneuni ; 
Aggripina, seated ; several busts of gods and 
Roman emperors ; a colossal Flora, Homer, 
Aristides — the latter also discovered in Hercu- 
laneum, and one of the finest specimens of the 
Grecian chisel extant — the Venus Callypige ; 
the magnificent group of the Toro Farnesc ; the 
Hercules of Glycon, found in Caracalla's baths ; 
and a large statue of our Saviour on the Cross by- 
Michael Angelo. The cabinets of antique bronzes, 
of gems, the Etruscan antiquities, and vases, will 
also afford gratification for many an hour. In 
the picture gallery will be especially remarked 
Leo the Tenth between two Cardinals, by Raphael; 
a Landscape, by Claude ; the Guardian Angel, by 
Domenichino ; Titian's Danae ; a Child Sleeping 
near a Skull, by Guido. 

Several splendid pictures are likewise contained 
in the Prince of Salerno's collection, among 
which the Descent from the Cross, by Gucrcino ; 
a Madonna, by Tasso Ferrate ; Daniel in the 
Lions' Den, by Salvator Rosa ; two fine large 
Landscapes, by the same painter; two magnificent 
Claudes (especially the one with water and a 
temple) ; a large picture of the Madonna and 
Child being crowned by Angels, by Guido, will 
more especially rivet the attention. 

The Albergo dei Poveri is a fine ostablislnnent, 
containing a population of 6,000 souls, paupers 
and oqihans. • The men and boys on one side, 



150 NAPLES. 

the women and girls on the other, are employed 
in various avocations, as tailors, shoe-makers, 
manufactories of linen and cloth, pins, type- 
foundry, &c. A chapel and infirmary for the 
sick form a part of the establishment. 

There are at Naples four or five large hospitals. 
The principal one, the Incwabile, stands in the 
centre of the city, in an elevated position, and 
contains about 1,400 beds; the wards are of 
considerable length and breadth, clean, and 
tolerably well ventilated. As at the other Itahan 
hospitals, patients are admitted on application, 
and are attended by soeurs de la charite^ and 
subordinate male and female attendants. Small 
bleedings, frequently repeated, are a very general 
practice, as in other parts of Italy ; and numerous 
sign-boards may be seen in the streets, at the 
barber-surgeons, representing the figure of a 
man with blood flowing in a full stream from 
the arms, legs, and neck. Stimulating, tonic, and 
laxative medicines are not frequently exhibited, 
but sedatives are more commonly used. 

The environs of Naples can scarcely be sur- 
passed for scenic beauty and interesting associa- 
tions, whether you muse o'er Virgil's tomb, 
explore the stupendous grotto of Pausilipo, the 
ruins of Pozzuoli, the Lake Avernus, the classic 
shores Baise and Misenum — 

" Where Caesars deigned with revellers reside; " 

whether you sail to the islands of Ischia, Procida, 



NAPLES. 151 

and Capri, or along the coast to Castellamare, 
and to the orange groves of Sorrento ; or whether, 
proceeding over fields of lava, you wander about 
the streets of Pompeii, the city of the dead, 
Avhere — 

" Radiant porticos appear, 
Halls that painted columns rear, 
Courts where central fountains played, 
Galleries that the noon-sun shade ; 
Here, Isis' mystic fane, and there 
Each marbled structur'd theatre ! 
What though no roof the radiant courts enclose, 
Fantastic figures beaming from below, 
Along the rich mosaic brightly glow ; 
All that from Raphael's fairy pencil flows, 
In graceful arabesques the walls adorn, 
Wing'd nymphs that float in air, and wind the wreathed horn." 

Sotheby's Italy. 

The ascent of Vesuvius is jiracticable on mules 
for about a mile further than the hermitage. As 
this is a work of difficulty and labour, it should 
not be attempted by invalids, who, if desirous of 
ascending, should be carried uj) in a chaise a 
porteur. The last eruption has very much altered 
the aspect of the mountain. You have now to 
ascend to the summit over hardened lava, instead 
of through ashes and scoriae, as was the case 
several years ago. The form of tlie crater is 
likewise so much changed as to be no longer 
recognizable by those who had se(>n it in its 
former state. There is now no central crater, 
but the whole forms a regular funnel-shaped 



152 THE NEAPOLITANS. 

descent, with here and there several large fissures, 
through which sulphurous smoke and flame issue. 
The panorama of the city, the bay, its shores and 
islands, the chain of mountains, with Pompeii, 
which appears to lie immediately beneath, is one 
of the finest in the universe.* 

The Neapolitans have more vivacity than the 
Komans. Most of the upper classes have but 
little general information, and, like those of 
Genoa, seem to care for little else than the 
enjoyment of the passing hour. Eustace, speak- 
ing of them (though his account would be 
somewhat overcharged if written at the present 
day), attributes the dissoluteness of manners to 
the enervating influence of the climate, the 
absence of moral principle, the facility of obtain- 
ing absolution, the formation of marriages from 
motives of convenance, the absolute nature of the 
government, which, by restricting the whole 
power in the sovereign and in the ministers, 
deprives the nobility of motives for exertion or 
employment. " Hence," says he, "without motive 
for exertion, they allow the nobler faculties of 
the soul, which have no object to engross them, 
to slumber in lethargic indolence ; while the 
sexual appetites, whose indulgence is always 
within reach, are in full activity, and engross all 
their time and attention. Hence their days are 
spent in visits, gaming, and intrigue, and their 

* A railroad extends from the city to Castellamarc, and in the opposite 
direction to Capua. 



THE NEAPOLITANS. 153 

minds are confined to the incident of the hour, 
the petty cabals of the court, and the vicissitudes 
of their own circle. They are never called to 
the country by the management of their estates, 
which they leave entirely in the hands of their 
stewards ; they live in the capital, forgetting 
themselves and their duties in an uninterrupted 
vortex of dissipation, and have neither opportunity 
nor, perhaps, inchnation to harbour serious 
reflection. Idleness, therefore, is the curse and 
misfortune of the Neapolitans, and, indeed, of all 
foreign nobility. It is the bane which, in 
despotic governments, enfeebles the powers and 
blots out all the virtues of the human mind. To 
it we may boldly attribute the spirit of intrigue 
which at Naples so often defiles the purity of the 
marriage bed, and dries up the very source of 
domestic happiness." 

Among the middle classes information is more 
difi'used, and literature and science are more 
cultivated. The state of medicine and surgery 
is higher than at Rome, and fully equal to that 
of Northern Italy. INIost of the shopkeepers and 
lower classes are covetous and over-reaching, and 
the stranger will require to look pretty sharp in 
his dealings with them, so that the account from 
the " Diary of an Invalid," introduced a few 
pagers back, holds equally good at the j^rescnt day 
in this respect, and also as regards the picking of 
pockets. The lower orders are, however, mostly 
good-humoured, and quick at rci)artee, though 



154 THE NEAPOLITANS. 

passionate and disinclined for more exertion than 
is sufficient to enable them to exist from day to 
day ; and nowhere is the '■''far neinte " better 
exemplified, both in the higher and lower ranks, 
than in the Neapolitan states. The Lazzaroni, as 
a body, may be said to exist no longer, though 
hundreds of raggamuffins may be seen about the 
streets idling, begging, or attending upon the 
hackney carriages, which cannot be engaged 
without one or more being perched up behind. 
Many of them are exceedingly well formed, 
muscular, and are able to go through a great 
deal of hard labour. 

The late revolutionary movements having 
extended to Naples, and obliged the king (no 
longer of the two Sicilies) to accede to a represen- 
tative form of government, will, doubtless, soon 
alter the character of the people, and lead to the 
fuller development of the resources of the 
country. * 

Of the Neapolitans, as compared with the 
Romans, Mrs. Carleton observes, " Naples is the 

* Since the above was written, the double dealing of the king has been 
manifested, in the collision, attended with considerable loss of life, between 
the citizens and National Guard on the one side, and the military, aided 
by the Lazzaroni and the rabble, on the other ; the support of these latter 
having been obtained by granting them the pillage of the city for several 
hours, large numbers of the citizens having been killed, and innumerable 
atrocities committed. The reign of terror was thus established, for a 
time, in the capital ; the provinces, however, having risen, and being 
aided by the Sicilians, a re-action was imminent ; and, according to the 
latest accounts, the abdication of the king might be expected, as he was 
shipping his carriages and treasures. 



CLIMATE OF NAPLES. 155 

worst for pilfering, Rome is the worst for villany. 
The Neapolitans are a good-natured, lying, and 
thieving population ; the passions of the llomans 
lie deeper ; the Neapolitans stab less because 
they chatter more ; and their irritability is partly 
expended in abuse." 

As far as I have been able to observe, I think 
the bad character which she gives the Romans 
is exaggerated. 

The climate of Naples, though perhaps the 
cMest in Italy, is at times exceedingly changeable 
with respect to variations of temperature, which 
are often great, frequent," and sudden. Cutting 
mnds sometimes prevail with severity, especially 
in spring; that part of the city inhabited by 
strangers, termed the Sta. Lucia, is particularly 
exposed to their influence, while, at the same 
time, the sun has frequently great power, and 
renders invalids extremely susceptible ; persons, 
therefore, with diseases of the lungs and air- 
passages, or rheumatism, should not remain at 
Naples in February and March. During Novem- 
ber, December, and frequently the greater part 
of January, the weather is usually fine and 
mild. 

The climate does not in general disagree with 
dyspeptic and nervous patients, unless there be a 
high degree of excitability ; and those whose 
general health is disordered, without any existing 
disease, may usually pass the winter very well at 
Naples. The climate is generally found to be 



156 CLIMATE OF NAPLES. 

too exciting for gouty patients of an irritable or 
plethoric habit. The sirocco is more severely 
felt than elsewhere in Italy, and, by its relaxing 
and paralysing influence, frequently renders 
persons incapable, during its prevalence, of either 
mental or bodily exertion. After the month of 
April, the heat in the middle of the day is so 
great that scarcely anybody is to be seen in the 
streets, most of the Neapolitans being engaged 
in taking their siesta, in order to be able to 
appear in the evening. The weather during 
April and May is delightful. 

There are two mineral springs rising from a 
dirty part of the beach, opposite Sta. Lucia, 
which are a good deal used for drinking, both by 
the higher and lower classes, in the summer, a 
string of carriages being frequently seen waiting, 
while the water is handed in turn to their occu- 
pants. The springs are both cool : one of them 
has a slight sulphurous impregnation. The 
sulphuretted hydrogen, however, speedily escapes 
after the water has been drawn from the spring, 
and the saline substance is in very minute 
quantity. The other, or Aqua Ferrata, is, as its 
name implies, a chalybeate spring. It has not 
an unpleasant taste, but the saline and ferrugi- 
nous impregnation is very slight. Each pint 
contains about seven cubic inches of carbonic 
acid gas. It may be useful in some forms of 
dyspepsia from debility of stomach, and as a 
refreshing drink in summer, though its medicinal 



MALTA. 157 

properties would be but inefficient in most cases 
where tonics are required. 

According to Mrs. Carleton, " the coolest 
and pleasantest summer residence in the neigh- 
bourhood of Naples is Sorrento. Castella- 
mare is also one of the most beautiful places 
near Naples, but it is also the dampest, being 
placed on the side of a high hill, covered 
with high trees from the foot to the summit. 
These cool groves are intersected by delightful 
walks, in which respect it is superior to Sorrento, 
where the pedestrian toils along narrow, hot, and 
dusty roads, shut out from the garden of the Hes- 
perides by stone walls, but then it has the advan- 
tage of Castellamare in rides. The latter is not 
only damp but dear, being the most fashionable 
of all the Neapolitan watering-places. 

" As a residence, Naples has defects that can 
hardly be compensated by its surrounding beau- 
ties, the climate is changeable, the rains abundant, 
the water bad, the gnats innumerable, the noise 
incessant, the baths limited, the language detest- 
able ; in all which respects, except rain, it is the 
opposite of Rome : in cheapness and masters it is 
inferior, and only equal in roguery." 

Possessing the advantages of an Italian climate, 
without being so subject to great and sudden 
transitions of temperatures as some of the places 
of resort in Italy, Malta has been a good deal 
frequented by invalids, especially since the Queen 
Dowager was induced to select it for a winter 



158 MALTA. 

residence. Forming moreover a part of the British 
dominions, Malta may be made more available 
for the purpose, should the disturbances in the 
southern peninsula continue, so as to render a 
prolonged sojourn there hazardous. The island 
is about sixty miles in circumference, eighteen in 
length, and twelve at its greatest breadth ; and, 
from the absence of high grounds or mountains, 
is not perceived at sea until approaching within 
a few miles. This has been signalized by one of 
the Italian poets — 

" Giace Malta fra I'ouda occulta e bassa," 

and, according to one of the English physicians, 
the highest ground is not more than 600 feet 
above the level of the sea. 

In summer the heat is excessive, the ground 
being parched up for the want of rain, which 
falls in torrents at stated seasons in spring and 
autumn. The sirocco is likewise oppressively 
felt. The winter climate is tolerably equable. 
Dr. Liddell says, that from the middle of October 
to the middle of January the weather is delightful, 
except during the occasional prevalence of a 
north-east wind. The air is pure and clear, being 
freshened by the north-west wind, which chiefly 
prevails, and is agreeable. About the middle of 
January, however, the weather becomes more 
unsettled, and in the two following months is 
often tempestuous and rainy. 

Dr. Liddell states the climate of Malta to be 



PALERMO. 159 

more especially suited to chronic bronchitis, with 
asthma, scrofula cases, dyspepsia, and h^q^ochon- 
cbiasis, and a generally disordered condition of 
the health. It usually agrees well with elderly 
persons. 

Strangers reside principally in Valetta, which, 
says Sir James Clark, "is built on a declivity, 
sloping from south to north-east, and is one of 
the finest towns in Europe. The principal streets 
run north and south, and are swept by cold 
northerly winds. The houses are excellent, and 
the rooms large and lofty. Country houses, with 
gardens and orange groves, may be readily 
obtained at a short distance from the city. The 
markets are plentifully supplied ; and Valetta is 
abundantly provided with excellent water, brought 
from a spring, six miles distant, by an aqueduct. 
The principal streets are clean, either paved or 
macadamized, and readily dry after rain. The 
roads leading to the country, or round the 
harbour, are in good condition, but they are of 
no great extent or variety. The most desirable 
places for a winter residence are those with a 
southern and eastern aspect, near the Barraccas." 

Casal Lia, three miles distant, is, according to 
Dr. Liddell, an unexceptional residence for pul- 
monary invalids, being well sheltered, and close 
to the public garden, St. Antonio. The liouses 
are generally large and good; but Dr. Liddell 
fears that proper accommodation and comfort 
for invalids could not be obtained. 



160 PALERMO. 

Palermo likewise enjoys an equable winter 
climate ; the accommodation is, however, but 
indifferent, and the city offers but few resources 
to visitors. 

"A mere traveller," says Mrs. Carleton, " would 
never suspect that the soft and balmy air of 
Palermo was unfavourable to diseased lungs, yet 
it is so, being of an exciting nature, but in a 
less degree than the treacherous breeze of Naples, 
which may be called irritating. However, the 
fatal malaria lurks in the surrounding country, 
and the admirers of fine scenery must not be 
tempted to lead a rural life in the beautiful spots 
that abound in the neighbourhood. With respect 
to accommodation, as Palermo is not the usual 
resort of invalids, they must not expect to find 
English comfort, English doctors, and snug 
lodgings. To conclude, notwithstanding the 
disadvantages that have been enumerated, those 
who have wintered at Palermo speak well of it, 
and the pleasantness and steadiness of its tem- 
perature, and the beauty of its situation, will 
always make it agreeable to visitors." 

On leaving Naples to return to Rome, the 
traveller, who has already passed by Terracina 
and the Pontine marshes, will be gratified by 
taking the route through Caserta — visiting its 
palace and modern aqueduct en passant — to 
Capua. The fine amphitheatre stands by the 
road-side, three miles from the town, and though 
larger than those of Verona or Nismes, is not 



VIA LATINA. 161 

nearly in such good preservation, a great part of 
the outer circle being in ruins. Like the 
Coliseum, it is constructed of large blocks of 
travertino, without the use of either mortar or 
cement, their mere weight being sufficient to 
keep them together. A little beyond Capua, 
the road to Rome by St. Germano, the ancient 
Via Latina, branches off to the right from that 
by Terracina, and is thirty miles shorter. The 
country is likewise more beautiful and interesting, 
and, on approaching St. Germano, is highly 
picturesque. This town lies at the base of a 
rocky pinnacle, crowned by a ruined castle, and 
at the extremity of a fertile plain, enclosed by 
mountains. High up on the mountain, im- 
mediately behind it, stands the celebrated Bene- 
dictine Abbey of Monte Casino, which forms 
a striking feature in the distant view, and is 
a principal inducement for travellers to take this 
route. You ascend by a steep and stony road 
(in many parts cut into steps, and only practicable 
for pedestrians and mules), through immense 
detached masses of blueish rock, with which the 
side of the mountain is covered, and between 
which grow tufts of long rank grass, forming a 
chaotic and indescribably curious scene. It 
i( quires an hour's good walking to reach the 
al)bey, and few scenes can compare with that 
which is exhibited from the platform. The 
desolateness and the wild sublimity of the moun- 
tains, grouped tog(^ther in a variety of forms, 

M 



162 ST. GERMANO. 

and enclosing, as in a frame, the plain and town 
of St. Germano, will leave a lasting impression 
on the mind. The abbey is a splendid quadrila- 
teral edifice, its several parts being built round 
five spacious court-yards ; the cells are neatly 
fitted up. There is a collection of pictures, and 
the library is large, and contains many valuable 
published works and manuscripts. 

The church is richly endowed, and is resplen- 
dent with paintings and precious marbles. It 
contains also some fine specimens of carved wood- 
work. The number of monks amounts to about 
forty ; and there is a seminary of eighty boys and 
young men, who are educated for the priesthood. 
Travellers are boarded and lodged for a few days; 
some remain for several weeks as inmates of the 
abbey. Ladies are permitted to see the church, 
but, as in other monasteries, are not permitted 
to enter the rest of the building — 

" Lest haply seen a form too fair, 
Immingle with the hermit's prayer, 
And downward draw his heaven-cast eye 
To earthly angel, passing by." 

The view, however, from the summit of the 
mountain is alone sufficient to repay the trouble 
of the ascent. A minute description of the 
abbey, and of the objects of interest along the 
Via Latina, is given in the Guide Book. 

On leaving St. Germano, you drive through a 
beautiful but thinly populated country, where 
scarcely a house is to be seen, except the half- 



ROAD TO FLORENCE. 163 

way inn at Melfi. Before arriving at Ceprano, 
the frontier town of the Roman states, the 
traveller passes beneath the ancient fortress of 
Rocca D'Arce, on the summit of a rocky moun- 
tain, and afterwards through the old towns of 
Frosinone and Ferrentino, with narrow dirty 
streets, and a scowling, brigand-looking, pauper 
population. From Ferrentino to Valmontone the 
country is flat, deserted, and uncultivated, though 
the environs of Valmontone are interesting. 

After leaving this toAvn, you have to drive 
across twenty-five miles of the Camj)agna before 
arriving at the entrance to Rome, by the Porta 
ISIaggiore, which, having been recently cleared 
of the stones and rubbish by which it was 
encumbered, is noAv the finest gate of the city. 

Those who have leisure and inclination may, 
l)y going a little out of the road, explore the 
ancient Volscian cities, Arpino and Arquino, 
the Isola di Sora, and the Pelasgic fortress of 
Alatri. 

The road from Rome to Florence, by Perugia, 
branches off' to the right beyond Baccano, and is 
much more interesting than that by Sienna, the 
country being diversified with liill and dale, 
woods, and cultivated lands. The towns and 
villages are cleaner, better built, and there is an 
air of greater neatness and comfort among the 
people than elsewhere in the Papal territories. 

Nei)i and Civita Castellana are placed on the 
edge of deep ravines, the precipitous sides of 



164 PERUGIA CORTONA. 

which are thickly clothed with trees and brush- 
wood, and, seen from a distance, have a striking 
and picturesque appearance. The position of 
Narni is also very fine; lying on the edge of a 
rocky dell, and crowning a commanding eminence, 
at the base of which flows the Nar (across which 
are seen the remains of an immense bridge, 
built by Augustus), it overlooks an extensive 
plain, surrounded by mountains, at the opposite 
extremity of which stands Terni, which is a neat, 
well-built town, in a delightful situation. The 
celebrated cascade, formed by the Velino, is 
about five miles distant, and is surrounded by 
scenery of the most interesting kind. 

Between Terni and Perugia the country is, for 
the most part, agreeable and hilly. You cross 
the mountain La Somma, and descend to Spoleto, 
near which a fine aqueduct stands by the road- 
side, and where the roads from Florence and 
from the Adriatic meet. Perugia is a large town 
of great antiquity, standing on a steep hill, but 
presents little to attract the notice of the passing 
traveller. The principal square contains two or 
three fine edifices, but the population is small, 
and the streets have a melancholy and deserted 
ajDpearance. 

Descending from Perugia, you shortly reach 
the classic shore of Thrasimene, and a few miles 
farther on, pass beneath the hill on which stands 
the ancient city of Cortona, now a large dilapi- 
dated-looking town, and shortly after arrive at 



AREZZO. 165 

Arezzo, the birth-place of Petrarch, a neat town, 
paved with flag-stones, and possessing a handsome 
cathedral. Between Arezzo and Florence the 
road passes through a pretty country, following 
the windings of the Arno, between cultivated 
and well-wooded hiUs. 



CHAPTER IX. 



BOLOGNA —PARMA— MILAN — PELLAGRA— THE LAKES — THE SIMPLON 
VALLEY OF THE RHONE— CRETINISM— BATHS OF LEUK. 



On leaving Florence for Bologna, shortly after 
having passed the handsome Porta St. Gallo, the 
traveller begins to ascend the " Alpestri Apen- 
nini," and soon enjoys a delightful view of the 
Val d'Arno, " girt by her theatre of hills." 
During a succession of ascents and descents, the 
road presents many fine views of mountain 
scenery. The prospect from le Maschere, of a 
valley encircled by mountains, grouped- together 
in picturesque forms, is strikingly fine ; as is also 
the view of the stern and rugged mountains near 
Covigliajo. At Loiano you again enter the States 
of the Church, and from a hill above the town 
may enjoy a view of the plains of Lombardy, 
bounded on the north by the chain of Alps, and 
of the two seas : — 

"D'ltalia quanto il Po ne irn'ga, e quauto 
L'Apenniii, I'Alpe, e d'Adria il mar ne serra." 

More wooden crosses will be seen on the road- 
side between Florence and Bologna than in any 



BOLOGNA. 1()7 

otlior part of Italy. They must not, however, 
always be re«>-arded as " memorials frail of mur- 
derous wrath," but indicate the spot where any 
accident attended Avith loss of life has occurred. 
Shortly after leaving Loiano, you desend to the 
plain, and arrive at Bologna, situate at its southern 
extremity. 

The city has a population of about 70,000 
souls ; the streets are clean, and are lined A\ith 
arcades, on which the houses are built. The 
principal square, containing the Old Palace, 
the church of St. Petronio (the patron saint), 
and other public buildings, with a fountain in 
its centre, embellished with a statue of Neptune, 
has a striking and antique appearance. The two 
leaning towers are ugly square piles of brick, 
standing close together, and inclining towards 
eacli other. Asinelli's tower is upwards of 300 
feet high ; a fine prospect may be enjoyed from 
its summit. It declines four feet from the 
perpendicular. The other tower is about half 
as high, and has a declination of eight feet. 
Bologna possesses a large and handsome theatre, 
and the corps dramatique is generally very good. 

The collection of pictures, though small, is 
select, and contains several chefs (Vociivrcs, among 
which may be mentioned, as more particularly 
deserving attention, the Crucifixion, by Jacopo 
di Bologna ; St. Bruno, by Guercino ; the Con- 
version of St. Paul, by l.udovico Caracci ; tli(> 
Madonna della Pieta, and tlie Massacre of the 



168 BOLOGNA. 

Innocents, by Guido ; the St. Cecilia of Haphael, 
and the Madonna del Rosario, by Domenichino. 
The Zampieri, and one or two other palaces, 
also contain a few good pictures. 

The University, which in former times was 
crowded with students from ahnost all the 
countries in Europe, is now but thinly attended. 
Its having fallen off of late years is partly to be 
ascribed to political circumstances, and also that 
foreign students are not admitted unless they be 
of the Catholic religion. The number, conse- 
quently, does not exceed five hundred. Among 
the celebrated men who studied at Bologna may 
be enumerated Valsalva, Malpighi, and Galvani. 
The building contains a good library, museums 
of human, comparative, and pathological anatomy, 
and of natural history. In the former is a 
collection of wax models of healthy and diseased 
structure, of the natural size. Those specimens 
Avhich illustrate the Pellagra and the Morbus 
Ceruleus are exceedingly well executed. Bo- 
logna ranks high among the Italian schools of 
medicine. 

The most prevalent diseases are inflammatory 
and intermittent fevers, inflammations of the 
lungs and air passages, and rheumatism. Pel- 
lagra is not uncommon in the neighbourhood, 
less so, however, than in the Milanese. 

The inhabitants of Bologna, and, indeed, all 
those of Homagna, are more vivacious and 
irritable than the rest of the subjects of his 



BOLOGNA. 169 

Holiness, and not iinfrequently give the govern- 
ment considerable trouble by their political 
tendencies, notwithstanding they enjoy some 
special privileges distinct from the Romans. 
The character given them by one of their poets — 

" II Bolognese e un popol del demon io, 
Clie nou si puo frcuar con alcun freiio," * 

might apply to many of them in the present day. 
By the new constitution they are, however, now 
represented at Rome by delegates, elected by 
themselves. 

The Bolognese are not dependent on the state 
of the weather for walking exercise, for, besides 
the arcades in the streets, others, consisting of 
six hundred and forty arches, extend from the 
town to the church of the Madonna della Guardia, 
Avhich stands on one of the lower AjDennines, 
three miles distant from the city. These have been 
constructed by means of contributions from rich 
individuals, and from the associations of the 
professional, trading, and other classes of the 
community. From tiie principal arcade another 
branches off, leading to the Campo Santo, an 
extremely well-arranged and interesting esta- 
blishment for burying the dead, opened some 
years ago. It is about a mile distant from 
the town, and comprises several acres of 
ground, planted with li'ees and slirubs, enclosed 

* Tassoiii, Scccliia llapita. 



170 MODENA PARMA. 

between elegant colonnades, lined with handsome 
tombs, statues, and marble monuments. There 
are likewise long covered passages and vaults 
beneath the pavement, with spaces partitioned 
off for interment, as in the catacombs. Among 
the monuments will be remarked one erected to 
the memory of the female professor of Greek, 
the last of the female professors who taught in 
the University. 

Bologna possesses no inducement for the pro- 
longed sojourn of strangers. There is but little 
society beyond an occasional soiree, as a large 
proportion of the upper classes pass their evenings 
at the theatre. The winter climate is bad, from 
the situation of the town on the northern side of 
the Apennines, the weather being frequently 
damp and cold. 

After quitting Bologna, you enter the fertile 
territory of Modena. The town is handsome, 
and chiefly consists of a single wide street, 
whence a few streets branch ofT on either side. 
The palace contains some good pictures, which 
may be visited en passant. The peasantry and 
lower classes in this small territory are remarkable 
for their beauty. 

The j)i^incipal streets of Parma are spacious 
and well-paved, but the population is small when 
compared with the size of the town. The Royal 
Academy contains a large and well-arranged 
public library, and a collection of pictures, 
among w^hich are some of the best productions 



PARMA. 171 

of Correggio, by whom also there arc fine fresco 
pamtings in the cliurclies. The great theatre, 
capable of containing 6,000 spectators, is now in 
ruins, but an elegant new theatre was constructed 
by the Duchess Maria Louisa. The hospital 
contains about four hundred beds ; the wards 
are lofty and airy, but too spacious to admit of 
their being properly warmed in wdnter. The 
pellagra is prevalent in the surrounding country. 

There are in Parma several charitable institu- 
tions ; one of them, the Congregazione Pietosa 
della Carita, was formed as far back as the 
fifteenth century, for the relief and medical 
assistance of the poor. One half of its members 
are ecclesiastics, the other half is composed of 
nobles and citizens. Two members of the society 
are attached in rotation to each district of the 
to^vn and its environs, whose duty it is to seek 
out and relieve those who need assistance. The 
medical duties are performed by pliysicians and 
surgeons, who are elected every three years. 
The aifairs of the society are arranged by a 
committee of twelve members, six secular, six 
ecclesiastical, who are divided into pairs, each pair 
having a particular department to superintend. 

Beyond Piacenza the traveller crosses the two 
branches of the Po, upon bridges of boats, and 
is reminded, by the custom-house on the bank, 
that the river is tlu^ boundary of 

"]• mil fill Ldinkirdy, 
The pleasant garden of great Italy ; " 



172 MILAN. 

in passing through which, however, he will 
scarcely fail to notice the unhealthy aspect of 
the peasantry, who are very liable to fevers and 
other diseases, which are chiefly to be ascribed 
to the irrigation and cultivation of the rice fields. 

The duchies of Parma and Modena have, like 
larger states, had their pronunciamento, got rid 
of their sovereigns, and established provisional 
governments. This, together with the customs 
league between Rome, Tuscany, and Sardinia, 
will facilitate the traveller's progress by lessening 
the anoyance of passports and doumies. 

Milan has more of the appearance of a capital 
than any other city in Italy. The houses are 
lofty, the streets clean, wide, lined with showy 
shops, and paved in the centre with strips of 
flag-stones, on which the carriages roll smoothly 
along. The throng of well-dressed pedestrians, 
and the number of handsome equipages, indicate 
the prosperous condition of the inhabitants. 
Milan, however, contains but few objects cal- 
culated to interest the majority of travellers. 
The only public edifice conspicuous for beauty is 
the cathedral, the whiteness of which dazzles the 
beholder, and the numerous pinnacles, each 
crowned with a statue, produce a rich and novel 
effect. The view from the spire of the extensive 
plains, with their stupendous northern barrier, 

" Alps on Alps ia dusters swelling," 

and of the long line of Apennines, stretching 



MILAN. 173 

soutliw.ard till lost in the distance, is strikingly 
ma<i-nificcnt. There is a pnblic collection of pic- 
tnres in the Palace of the Brera. Among the 
most valuable pictures are Abraham and Hagar, 
by Guercino ; St. Peter and St. Paul, by Guide ; 
the Last Supper, by Rubens ; and two land- 
scapes, by Salvator Rosa. 

The theatre of La Scala is, after St. Carlo, the 
largest in Italy. The boxes are so constructed, 
and furnished with blinds, as to screen the occu- 
pants from observation. It is the custom at 
Milan, more than elsewhere, to receive company 
in the boxes. The operatic corps is not generally 
very superior, but the ballets d' action are extremely 
well got up. 

The handsome triumphal gate, commenced by 
Napoleon, was completed a few years ago, and is 
one of the objects best worth visiting. On the 
esplanade, near it, is a modern amphitheatre, 
large enough to contain thirty thousand spec- 
tators, in which chariot races, in imitation of 
those of antiquity, occasionally take place. 

The Spedale Grande is one of the largest hos- 
pitals in Europe ; its facade measures nine hun- 
dred feet, and it encloses several court-yards. The 
number of patients is about a thousand, though 
nearly twice as many could be accommodated. 
As in most of the other Italian hospitals, there 
are a few sejiarate apartments for those who can 
afford to contribute towards their maintenance. 
Most of the articles for the use of the patients, as 



174 MILAN. 

bread, bedding, blankets, clothes, &c., are manu- 
factured within the hospital. The treatment of 
disease appears to me to be rational, and is less 
based upon exclusive theories than upon the 
observation of symptoms, and the special indica- 
tions in individual cases. 

The hospital for the insane is situate about a 
mile from the town, in a locality where consider- 
able humidity must prevail, from the numerous 
canals for irrigation. It contains about five hun- 
dred beds. Many of the patients are employed in 
works about the establishment, as gardening, 
carrying water or wood, the manufacture of 
articles of clothing, shoes, &c., the women in 
knitting, spinning, and similar avocations. The 
remedial means principally adopted, in cases 
where a high degree of cerebral excitement 
exists, consists in the occasional abstraction of 
blood, laxatives, baths, and sedatives, especially 
morphine. Several of the inmates had large 
goitres, and in many mental alienation had 
supervened upon repeated attacks of pellagra. 

On account of the neighbourhood of Milan 
to the Alps, its climate in winter is cold and 
damp, and occasionally foggy. The irrigation of 
the rice-fields, with which the Milanese abounds, 
is a fertile source of fevers of all types, which, 
together with thoracic inflammations, phthisis, 
rheumatism, and aff"ections of the digestive organs, 
are the most prevalent diseases. Large goitres 
and s'crofulous complaints are likewise very 



MILAN PELLAGRA. 175 

common. A disease, however, which may be 
considered as endemic in Lombardy is the pel- 
lagra — of which the hospitals contain numerous 
specimens. This complaint is characterized by 
general derangement of the nervous and digestive 
apparatus, with hy[30chondriasis, and frequently 
a propensity to suicide, or to destroy others, 
especially childi'en. There exists, at the same 
time a chronic inflammation of the skin, more 
particularly affecting those parts which are most 
exposed to the action of the sun, as the neck, 
hands, and arms, which become covered with a 
dark brown scaly eruption. The disease was 
unknown before 1778: it generally occurs in 
spring and summer, many individuals being 
affected at these periods during several successive 
years, who become comparatively well as the 
summer advances, and usually terminates, after 
repeated attacks, in paralysis, visceral disorganiza- 
tion, or mental alienation, and is confined to the 
poorer classes, who are badly clothed and fed; 
being more common among the inhabitants of the 
mountainous districts about Como and Bergamo 
tlian those of the plain. The causes of this 
disease are enveloped in considerable obscurity. 
The use of bread badly baked, or made with 
damaged Indian corn, which is customary among 
the peasantry of these districts, has been enume- 
rated by medical men as one of its causes ; but, 
in all probability, more depends upon the locality 
in which they live than upon the quaUty of their 



176 THE LAKE OF COMO. 

food, as the patients generally become better if 
their residence and mode of life be changed. 

Many individuals among the higher classes of 
the Milanese are well informed, and are fond of 
study and of travelling. Most of the women are 
tall and have finely-formed features : they have 
for the most part adopted, as in other large 
towns, the French mode of dress, which has 
almost entirely superseded the graceful and 
becoming costume of the middle and inferior 
classes. Milan was not an agreeable place of 
residence for strangers, under the Austrian regime 
society having been much fettered by the system 
of espionage pursued by government : the success 
of the recent revolution, and the emancipation 
from their galling yoke will, however, doubtless 
tend to elevate the character of the people, and 
improve the tone of society, as well as to develope 
the national resources. As, however, Austria is 
not likely to give up the Lombard- Venetian 
kingdom without a severe struggle, it may yet be 
long before peace be restored and a permanent 
form of government established in Northern 
Italy.* 

The drive to the lakes is highly interesting, the 
country being beautiful, fertile, and embellished 
with neat villas. Como is a pretty town, delight- 

* By the latest accounts, tlie war is being carried on ; Loinbardy has 
been ceded to Charles Albert, and joined to Piedmont. Tliis measure is 
thought more likely to be an efficient barrier against the entrance of the 
French into Italy than if Lombardy had remained a republic. 



LAGO MAGGIORE. 177 

fully situate on the shore of the lake, and sur- 
rounded on the land side by lofty and verdant 
hills. Tlie lake itself is enclosed between hills 
clothed with verdure, on the sides of which are 
numerous villages ; their base being embellished 
with towns and handsome villas skirting the 
shores. The most beautiful part is at Bellagio, 
where the lake of Lecco joins that of Como : — 

" Sweet it is to behold, on either siJe, 
The crystal flood divide, 
Making an isle of that green eminence ; 
And watch the sails that flash'd on the far stream, 
Now seen, now lost ; 

Like fire-flies glancing through the moonlight gleam, 
As winds the current cross'd." 

Sothehjj. 

A few days may be agreeably passed at Ca- 
denabbia, nearly opposite to Bellagio. The villas 
Somariva and Melfi, in the neighbourhood, "vvill 
well repay the trouble of a visit. The galleries cut 
through the rocks for several hundred feet along 
the edge of the lake near Varenna, forming part 
of the new road leading to the Stelvio, will like- 
wise be visited with interest. This road branches 
off to the right before arriving at Chiavenna, 
at the upper end of the lake, and where the 
ascent of the Splugen connnences. 

The scenic features of the Lago Maggiore 
differ materially from those of Como. The lake 
itself is much wider, and the mountains at its 
upper part are more bold, lofty, and rugged, than 
those which enclose the lake of Como ; but, on 



178 THE SIMPLON. 

advancing to the south, become softened down 
into gently rising hills, covered with vineyards 
and corn-fields, while numerous towns and ham- 
lets lie at their base, adorning the shores. The 
Boromean islands, seen from a distance, have a 
pleasing eifect, and, with the distant Alpine range, 
add to the variety and interest of the scene. 

Leaving the shore of the lake at Baveno, the 
traveller shortly afterwards arrives at Domo 
D'Ossola, the first town presented to the view on 
descending from the Simplon, and which, with 
the rich plain where it lies, together with the 
white villas scattered about the hills, is well 
calculated to convey a favourable impression of 
Italy. The ascent of the Simplon from the 
bridge of Crevola is gradual as far as Isella, the 
road being carried along the edge of the Vedro, 
through scenery of a strikingly wild and romantic 
character. Beyond Isella you pass through the 
sombre defile of Gondo, which presents scenery 
surpassing in wildness and sublimity that of any 
other Alpine pass. The ascent then becomes 
steeper, and the road is seen from below, wind- 
ing its way upwards in several zig-zag turns, 

" Like a silver zone 
Flung about carelessly, it shines afar, 
Catching the eye in many a broken link, 
In many a turn and traverse as it glides ; 
And oft above, and oft below, appears. 
Seen o'er the wall by him who journeys up, 
As though it were another, not the same. 
Leading along he knows not whence or whither." 

Rogers. 



THE VALAIS. 179 

After reaching the village of Simploii, a few 
miles of ascent remain before the summit of the 
pass is gained. A substantial hospice has been 
erected ^^ithin these few years at the highest 
part. The descent towards Switzerland presents 
but few features of interest compared with the 
Italian side; the road being for the most part 
cut through the mountain, along the edge of 
mde ravines, between whose steeply-shelving 
sides, clothed with pines and larches, occasional 
glimpses are caught of the valley and glittering- 
spires of Brigg, to which it descends after many 
tortuous windings. 

The Haut Valais is hemmed in between high 
mountains, preventing the free circulation of air : 
the soil is in many parts marshy, and covered 
with rank vegetation ; no wonder, then, that 
goitre and cretinism should be endemic there, as 
the inhabitants constantly inspii'e an atmosphere 
laden with noxious exhalations. 

Goitre, which is, in fact, but a modification of 
cretinism, is generally found to prevail in locali- 
ties similarly circumstanced — viz., where there 
exists a marshy soil combined with imperfect 
ventilation, or stillness of the atmosphere, as in 
some of the valleys of the Pyrenees and the Alps. 
Fodere considered it to depend upon the pro- 
longed influence of a thick and stagnant au", 
charged with miasmata and fogs. M. de Saus- 
sure, in his " Voyages dans les Alpes," remarks, 
that goitre is not met with above a certain alti- 



180 THE VALAIS. 

tucle, as one thousand or one thousand four hun- 
dred metres; he also ascribes it to the influence 
of the heated, stagnant, and corrupted air which 
is breathed in deep valleys, as in those parts of 
the valleys which have a freer ventilation, and 
where they open out into plains, the complaint 
is less common. That the principal cause of the 
disease, where it prevails endemically, is referable 
to the quality of the air inspired, the anatomical 
and physiological connexion of the thyroid gland 
with the vocal and respiratory organs would lead 
us to believe ; and the opinion is corroborated by 
the observations of many of the professional men 
resident in those districts where it prevails. As 
a proof of the influence of humidity in promoting 
its formation, it may be mentioned, that in dry 
and cold weather it is not unusual to see the 
goitres diminish in size. It has been attributed 
by some to the drinking of snow-water ; but the 
inhabitants of many valleys in elevated situations, 
and also in some parts of Russia, drink nothing 
else but snow-water during a great part of the 
year, and yet they are not liable to goitre ; but 
in the Haut Valais, where the combined causes 
of marshy exhalation and imperfect ventilation 
prevail in the highest degree, the most aggra- 
vated form of the disease, cretinism, is met with; 
in other localities, where the operation of these 
causes is not so constant, cretinism is more rare, 
and the milder form, or goitre, principally obtains. 
This is well exemplified in the valley of the 



BATHS OF LEUK, 181 

Rhone, which widens below Ridcles, ^^hcl•o tlie 
mountains likewise are less high, and cretinism 
is less frequently met with, though persons with 
goitres are still seen. Below Martigny, however, 
where the valley is wide, the mountains low, and 
the earth more cultivated, even goitre becomes 
comparatively rare, and in proportion as you 
approach the lake of Geneva, the inhabitants 
have a more healthy and cheerful appearance. 
Even in the Haut Valais, however, cretins are at 
the present day less frequently seen than formerly, 
which I suspect depends upon their being kept 
more out of sight than upon any material diminu- 
tion of their number. 

The scenery in several parts of the valley of 
the Rhone is highly interesting. Sion, the cajntal 
of the district, looks well from a distance, and its 
two castles, now in ruins, crowning commanding 
eminences, produce a good effect. The position 
of Martigny is likewise striking. Placed in a 
nook at the base of steep mountains, it is the 
point at which the roads meet from the great St. 
Bernard ; and from Chamouni by the Tete Noire 
and the Col de Balme. Not many miles from 
Martigny, but on the opposite side of the valley, 
the town of Leuk is seen from the road on the 
acclivity of the mountain. The baths lie uj) tlie 
gorge between the mountains, about three miles 
from the town, at the foot of the Gcmmi. They 
are thronged during the season — cliieMy, liow- 
ever, by the Swiss, who are afliicled willi rlieu- 



182 BATHS OF LEUK. 

matic and paralytic affections. The baths form 
four squares under one roof, and are separated 
from each other by canals, through which water 
flows fresh from the springs, and is drank by the 
patients while in the bath, in which it is cus- 
tomary to remain during four, six, or eight hours 
every day ; a large number of persons, therefore, 
of both sexes, bathe together at the same time, 
each being clad in a flannel gown and tippet, and 
several having before them small floating tables, 
to hold their handkerchief, books, snuff-box, &c. 
The springs contain but a minute quantity of 
saline substances ; the temperature is about 
45** E,. ; and there is little doubt that to the con- 
tinued impression of the warm water upon the 
surface for several hours daily their efficacy is to 
be principally ascribed. 



CHAPTER X. 



GENEVA-.V1X LES BAINS -TURIN-COL DI TENDA-BERNE- INTERLACKEN 
VENICE— PASS OF AMPEZZO-INNSPRUCK— KREUTII. 



The moimtams at the upper part of the lake of 
Geneva present a fine bold aspect. The climate 
of this part is said to be extremely mild and 
salubrious, and several lodging-houses have been 
constructed \vithin the last few years above Ville- 
neuve, , to which invalids from various parts of 
Switzerland are in the habit of resorting on 
the approach of winter. The castle of Chillon 
looks well from the water, and, with the moun- 
tains in the back ground, forms a striking pic- 
ture. Vevay is a neat, clean, quiet town, and 
an agreeable retreat for a few weeks in the 
summer. It is a good deal frequented by those 
persons who undergo the cure des raisins^ which 
consists in the eating plentifully of ripe grapes, 
to Avliicli bread is added, with a moderate quantity 
of animal food once in the day. This treatment 
is not luifrequently productive of marked bene- 
ficial effects in various states of disordered health, 
especially those which depend u])ou a vitiiited 
condition of the fluids, or excessive delicacy of 



184 LAUSANNE GENEVA. 

the mucous membranes of the air-passages and 
alimentary canal, accompanied with glandular 
enlargement. Lausanne, the capital of the Pays 
de Vaud, is one of the towns of Switzerland most 
frequented by strangers, both for a permanent 
residence, and for a few weeks or months in the 
summer. It stands in an elevated position about a 
mile from Ouchy, on the lake, and possesses several 
resources for amusement and occupation. The 
environs are pretty, and from the public prome- 
nade a delightful prospect may be enjoyed of the 
greater part of the lake, with the chain of high 
Alps. Lausanne, though perhaps less agreeable 
than Geneva, is a cheaper place of residence, 
and affords greater facilities for the education of 
young people. 

Geneva is much improved in appearance 
within the last few years. The quays have been 
widened by the removal of several old buildings, 
which are replaced by large and handsome edi- 
fices. The town, however, has but little beauty 
in itself, but derives its chief interest from its 
historical associations, its position, and the beauty 
of its promenades and environs. The Genevese 
are in general well informed and agreeable; 
society is upon an easy footing, and free from all 
formahty. Evening reunions and tea-parties are 
very common, to which ladies go on foot, accom- 
panied by a female servant to carry their shawl, 
cloak, or pattens, in wet weather, and to Hght 
them home. Literature and science are a good 



CHAMBERY. 185 

deal cultivated, Geneva having been the birth- 
place of several savcms, and the place of residence 
of many eminent men. Between three and four 
thousand of the inhabitants are employed in the 
watch-making business. Geneva, mth its environs, 
is perhaps the most eligible locality in Switzer- 
land for a summer residence ; many of the villas 
are let to the English, by whom the numerous 
liotcls are thronged till tlie period of autumnal 
migration to the south. The climate in winter is 
cold and changeable; even in the month of 
October a good deal of rain frequently falls, and 
fogs are not uncommon in the evening. 

Chambery, the capital of Savoy, and the prin- 
cipal town on the roads from Geneva and Lyons 
to Turin, lies in a picturesque country watered 
by the Isere, apparently close to the Alps, which, 
however, are several posts distant. Those travel- 
lers unencumbered with a carriage may descend 
the Rhone in about eight hours to Lyons, whereas 
by land double that time is required. A small 
steamer is stationed on the lake, a few miles from 
Chambery, to which a railroad conducts, and 
performs the journey two or three times a week; 
but, owing to the rapidity of the llhonc, it 
requires two and sometimes tliree days to return. 

Aix les Bains is two leagues from Chambery, 
on the Geneva road, and contains a population 
of four thousand inhabitants. It lies in a beau- 
tiful situation, and the more elevated ]);ir(s of 
the environs command extensive and delii^hlful 



186 AIX LES BAINS. 

prospects. These baths have been frequented 
from the time of the Romans, and are in high 
repute in the present day, as being among the 
most efficient hot sulphurous waters of Europe ; 
and are especially calculated to remove long- 
standing rheumatic, paralytic, and cutaneous 
diseases. The casino, or assembly and billard- 
rooms, occupies an ancient building, supposed to 
have been built on the site of a temple of Diana, 
of which some vestiges may still be seen. The 
bathing establishment contains two piscinae, or 
lofty vaulted chambers, about fifteen feet square, 
fitted up with douche apparatus at various 
heights from the ground, in order to regulate 
the degree of force with which the water falls 
upon any part of the body. The douche forms 
an essential part of the treatment of most of the 
cases to which the Aix waters are applicable. It 
is not, however, the custom to take the bath and 
douche at the same time, as at other places, as 
the water does not rise more than a few inches 
from the floor. The so-called sulphur spring 
flows directly from the rock (which at this part 
is hewn out in the form of a grotto), and is used 
for drinking. There is also another department, 
termed d'Enfer, from its being below the surface, 
and the water being hotter than the other 
springs. The piscinae are constantly filled with 
vapour, so that patients have the advantage of a 
vapour bath at the same time as the douche. 
There is, however, but little convenience for 



AIX LES BAIXS. 187 

dressing, and on this account only one person 
can bathe at a time. A fourth vaulted chamber 
adjoins the preceding, and is furnished with 
douches and a shower bath, which is a good deal 
employed in some nervous complaints. The 
modern part of the establishment, called the 
Thermes Albertines, contains six chambers for 
douching — the pipes being arranged so as to 
allow the Avater to fall upon the part either in a 
full or divided stream — a large public bath, with 
a depth of water of four or five feet, supplied 
by the alum and cold springs, and principally 
used as a pleasure-bath for persons in health or 
weakly children: in the centre of the building 
is an apartment, around which are ten cabinets 
supplied with a douche, and having the floor 
perforated to allow the ascent of vapour, so as to 
be used either for douching or as a vapour-bath. 
There are besides six other cabinets for water- 
baths. Friction of the surface is employed con- 
jointly with the baths and douches, for which 
purpose male and female rubbers are in attend- 
ance. 

From Chambery to the handsome and strongl)'- 
fortified town of Grenoble, which, though in a 
flne mountainous position, presents little to delay 
the traveller, is a diive of about six hours. 
Diverging from this route, the Grande Char- 
treuse may be visited; access is, however, only 
obtained on foot or horseback, by a patli bolM een 
steep mountains. The scenery altogether is 



188 TURIN, 

highly picturesque, but the position of the 
building is bleak. It is the largest monastery in 
France; though the number of monks is now 
much diminished. 

After a few hours' drive from Grenoble, 
Valence, on the Rhone, may be reached by the 
passage of Les Echelles, or, if the traveller be 
proceeding to Italy from Chambery, he will pass 
the Mount Cenis ; the country is, for the most 
part, uninteresting. In the wild and sterile 
valley of the Maurienne, enclosed between steep 
mountains on each side, goitres and cretinism 
were formerly very prevalent, but, owing to the 
improved drainage and increased cultivation, are 
now comparatively unfrequent. The ascent of 
the mountain commences immediately after leav- 
ing Lanslebourg ; but this road is less interesting 
in point of scenery than most of the other Alpine 
passes, though there are some fine parts on the 
Italian side, where the mountain is excavated in 
grottoes. At Susa you descend to the plain, and 
shortly afterwards arrive at Turin. 

This city lies in an open and fertile country, 
watered by the Po, which is crossed by a hand- 
some bridge. It is regularly built, the streets 
are spacious, and at right angles Avith each other, 
the principal ones diverging from the square, 
in the centre of which stands the Eoyal Palace, 
which does not contain much that is remarkable. 
The houses in the square, and in several of the 
streets, are built iqoon arcades, which enable the 



COL DI TENDA. 189 

inhabitants to take exercise in wet weather. 
There arc in Turin but few objects calculated to 
interest the toimst ; the church of the Superga, 
on one of the hills, five miles from the town, will, 
however, repay the trouble of a visit, by the 
delightful and extensive prospect which it com- 
mands of the Alps and of the plam. 

Those persons proceeding further into Italy, 
and desirous of seeing some of the most magni- 
ficent and mid Alpine scenery, wiU derive much 
more gratification from taldng the route to Nice 
by the Col di Tenda, and from Nice to Genoa 
by the Cornice, than from going direct from 
Turin to the last-named town. 

After having passed through Coni, a fortified 
to"\vn of some importance, you arrive at Limone, 
whence a winding ascent leads to the summit, 
which commands a prospect of the Alps, with 
Monte Rosa high above the rest. The summit 
of the pass is strictly a col or neck, being little 
more tlian a narrow ridge, whence may be per- 
ceived, immediately beneath, the road descending 
the steep sides of the mountain, by numerous 
zigzag and corkscrew-like turns. On account of 
the exposed position of the pass, liigli winds are 
very common, and the snow is generally thick 
upon the road from the beginning of November 
till the end of May, so as almost to interupt the 
communication. 

'J'enda, at the foot of the pass, is a miscn-abh.' 
and dilapidated looking town, beyond which you 



190 



COL DI TENDA. 



pass through some fine scenery, and the wildly 
romantic gorge of Saorgio; the road being cut 
for miles along the edge of the torrent, and 
frequently through rocks, which impeded its 
construction. The town of Saorgio is perched 
upon the acclivity of one of the mountains. Its 
castle completely commands the defile, and made 
efficient resistance to the French during their 
occupation of Piedmont. The scenery from 
Saorgio to Chiandola continues to be of the most 
interesting description. You then ascend another 
mountain pass, exceeding in savage grandeur, 
and in the desolateness of its appearance, that of 
Tenda, and descend to Sospello, between which 
town and the plain of Nice there lies yet 
another mountain, the scenery of which is of 
the same wild character as the former, the road 
being in several parts cut through rocks of 
granite and marble. From the summit is 
obtained a glance of the Mediterranean, with 
the harbour of Villa Franca, and the island of 
Saint Marguerite. After passing through the 
village of Scarena, the road gradually descends 
to the regions of fertility, and approaches Nice 
through olive plantations and orange gardens. 

Proceeding northward from the lake of Geneva 
to Basle, the traveller is obliged to employ a 
voiturier, the only post-roads being those from 
Geneva to Simplon, and from the lake of Con- 
stance to the Splugen. 

The route to Berne by Morat passes through a 



BERNE. 191 

hilly and pleasing country, embcllislied with 
numerous cheerful-looking farm-houses, the in- 
habitants exhibiting e^^ery appearance of comfort 
and content. A plain pillar on " the proud, the 
patriot field " of Morat, marks the spot where 
the bones of the Burgundians lie unsepulchred. 
Berne is the handsomest town in Switzerland, 
and is one which enjoys the greatest advantage 
with respect to the beauty of its situation. It 
is placed on the declivity of a hill, round the 
base of which the river Aar makes a considerable 
bend. The streets are spacious, extremely clean, 
and the houses are built on low arches, somewhat 
like those of Padua. 

A stream of clear water runs through a small 
canal, along the centre of each street, supplying 
several neat fountains, most of which are adorned 
with the statue of Winkelried, or some other 
hero of Swiss history. There are several agree- 
able terraces and public promenades in the town 
and in the environs, commanding magnificent 
prospects over a vast extent of highly cultivated 
and richly Avooded country, above which the long 
range of the Bernese Alps, covered -with snow, 
raise their majestic peaks, and form the most 
splendid and striking feature in tlie scene. 

A drive of about six hours from Berne, 
through a beautiful country, brings the traveller 
to Interlacken, situated in one of the ploasantest 
valleys of the Oberhind, and niuch frccpiented in 
the summer by English visitors, the number of 



192 INTERLACKEN. 

whom had so much increased, that the size of 
the village is more than double what it was a 
few years ago. Several new boarding-houses 
have also been erected at Unterseen, a small 
town about half a mile distant from Interlacken, 
and, like it, deriving its name from its position 
with respect to the lakes of Thun and Brientz. 

The Jungfrau, with other " thrilling regions 
of the thick-ribbed ice," rise immediately above 
the valley; whence the small cross, planted on 
its summit by the party who first ascended, may 
be seen with the naked eye in clear weather. 
Interlacken is a central spot for excursions 
among some of the sublimest scenery of Switzer- 
land, though less eligible as a summer residence 
for an invalid than Geneva and its environs 
(especially if the weather should chance to be 
bad), on account of the want of resources. 

The country between Berne and Basle is less 
hilly, but, like that between Berne and Lausanne, 
teems with fertility and population. Basle is a 
large manufacturing town, which contains no 
remarkable public edifices, and derives much of 
its importance from being close to the French 
and German frontier. It is divided into two 
unequal parts by the Rhine, which is here of 
considerable breadth, and is crossed by a wooden 
bridge. Here the traveller joins the raih'oads, 
running on both banks parallel with the Rhine. 
If he do not desire to visit the cathedral at Stras- 
burg, he need not make the detour into France, but 



VENICE. 193 

may pass by Freyburg, a handsome town, with a 
fine cathedral, and worthy a brief dehiy. Before 
proceeding, however, into Germany, some notice 
mnst be taken of Venice ; between which and 
Milan the railroad will shortly be completed, 
being now open from the former city to 
Yicenza. 

The lagoons, or shoals, npon which stands 
Venice, formed by the earth deposited from the 
rivers, which, descending from the Alps, empty 
themselves into the head of the Adriatic, may, 
as a traveller has observed, be compared, mth 
reference to this sea, " to a side closet shut off 
from a room by a partition." This partition, 
which divides it from the open sea, is composed 
of different pieces with apertures between them, 
which, if we pursue the same comparison, may 
be considered as so many doors; and in a line 
with these openings, though not uniformly 
straight, are the channels by which vessels 
approach Venice. The largest of these channels, 
or the Grand Canal, is crossed by one bridge, the 
Rialto, the only other communication between 
the two parts being by means of gondolas ; and, 
as the same author further observes, the city 
itself " may be considered as divided into two 
principal parts, made up of small islands, and 
each part separated from the other, except at 
this bridge. The different shoals, constituting 
the two great separate parts, are again connected 
by smaller bridges, which cross the canals by 



194 VENICE. 

which the numerous islands are formed. These 
bridges are frequent, and, being very steep, they 
are cut into easy steps ; hence, in walking about 
Venice, you are constantly going up and down 
flights of steps. The Rialto, being the highest 
bridge in the town, is also the steepest. The 
small canals, or rii, as they are termed, which 
are crossed by these bridges, are the water streets 
of Venice ; but there is no part of either of the 
two divisions to which you may not also go more 
directly by land through narrow passages called 
cale. These cale may be considered as an un- 
favourable likeness of Cranbourn-alley and its 
cognate lanes. There are besides several small 
squares, called campi, or fields." * 

The above quotation will serve to give a good 
general idea of Venice, of which the aspect of 
parts is familiar to many who have not visited it, 
from the accurate representations in Canaletti's 
pictures. The appearance of the city, which 
seems to arise from the water on approaching 
from the main land in a gondola, and the entrance 
by the Grand Canal, are eminently calculated to 
strike the traveller 

" Che Vede 
Di marmi adonie e grave 
Sorger le mura, onde ondeggiar le navi ; " 

as is likewise the silence which prevails, and is 
scarcely interrupted save by the warning sound 
ever and anon uttered by the gondoliers on turn- 

* Rose, as quoted in " Tlie Classic and Connoisseur in Italy." 



VENICE. 195 

ing a corner; for singing, or the recitation of 
Tasso's verses, no longer constitutes a part of their 
vocation : — 

" No answering gondolier at close of day- 
Takes up Medoro's tale or sweet Erminia's lay." 

The most handsome palaces are built along 
the canal ; some of them are almost literally 
" crumbling to the shore," and others are appro- 
priated to the use of government, or let to 
strangers, there being few of the descendants 
of the old Venetian families now remaining, and 
those, for the most part, are in an impoverished 
condition. The expulsion of the Austrians, and 
the re-establishment of a republic, or an in- 
dependent form of government, may, however, 
possibly tend to restore to Venice somewhat of 
its former importance. 

St. Mark's Square will probably be the first 
spot to which the ^dsitor will direct his gondola ; 
this, being the only open place for walking, is 
thronged in the evening with the inhabitants 
and strangers, several of whom are dressed in 
the eastern costume, lounging beneath the arcades 
or in the cafes. This square is still, as indeed it 
has always been, celebrated as the scene of 
pageantry, and exhibitions botli of joy and 
mourning : — 

" The sea, that emblem of uncertainty, 
Changed not so fast, for many and many an age, 
As this small spot. To-day 'twas full of masks; 
And lo ! the madness of the carnival, 



196 VENICE. 

The monk, the nun, the holy legate masked ! 
To-morrow came the scaffold and the wheel, 
And he died there by torch-light, bound and gagged, 
Whose name and crime they knew not." — Rogers. 



The church, occupying one end of the square, 
is of a mixed style of architecture, and is sur- 
mounted by five domes, somewhat after the 
manner of the Turkish mosques. The interior 
is rather sombre, notwithstanding the decorations 
of gilding, mosaics, and marbles, with which it 
is profusely ornamented. Adjoining is the 
Doge's Palace, which takes up one side of the 
Piazzetta. The appearance of the grand council- 
chamber is interesting. It contains some fine 
historical pictures by Tintoretto and Palma 
Vecchio, with portraits of the Doges around; 
one space being covered with a black pall instead 
of the picture of Marino Faliero.* The chamber 
of the Council of Ten, and other apartments, 
are likewise embellished with paintings by Titian 
and other painters of the Venetian school. The 
prisons, termed pozzi, or wells, to which the 
entrance is by the Bridge of Sighs, will be visited 
with interest. 

Venice is only excelled by Rome in the num- 
ber and magnificence of its churches. The 
Redentore, with the adjoining Dogana, presents 
a striking appearance from the water, or from 
the opposite side of the canal, as does also the 

* See Notes to Chllde Harold. 



VENICE. 197 

Church of the Sahite, which, as well as the 
former, were erected by Palladio, on the occasion 
of the cessation of the plague. Its interior is 
richly decorated and embellished with some fine 
paintings ; the Jesuits' Church is likewise richly 
adorned mth variegated marbles and precious 
stones. The churches of St. Giorgio and St. 
Giovanni e Paulo must likewise be enumerated 
among those most deserving of a visit. In the 
Academia di belle Arte is a choice collection of 
pictures and other interesting 'objects. Of the 
private collections, the Barberini and the Man- 
frini are the^best ; in the first are several Titians, 
portraits of Doges and members of the fiimily; 
as also a Magdalen, a Venus, and Titian's 
daughter, which rank among the chefs d'arnvres 
of this master. They are, however, rapidly 
falling into decay. The Manfrini collection is 
better ^^reserved ; a few of the best pictures are 
the Prodigal Son, by Guercino, which is the 
counterpart of the picture of the same subject 
in the Borghese Palace at Rome ; portrait of a 
Dutch Ambassador, by Rembrandt ; the Defiance 
of Apollo ; and Lucretia, by Guido ; portraits by 
Titian, especially that of Ariosto ; Circe present- 
ing the cup to Ulysses, by Giulio Romano ; a 
Holy Family, by Palma Vecchio. 

A walk of about half a mile from St. Mark's, 
along the quay, interrupted by the ascent of 
several bridges, wliich cross tlie smaller canals, 
loads to the arsenal, which, ho\v(^ver, in its 



198 VENICE. 

present state, will scarcely repay the trouble of a 
visit. In the same direction is a wide street, 
formed by covering over a canal with flag-stones, 
which leads to the public garden constructed by 
orders of Napoleon, about half a mile long, and 
planted with trees and shrubs. On an island 
opposite stands the Armenian Convent, an in- 
teresting establishment, which is well worth 
visiting. 

The Campanile, in St. Mark's Square, should 
be ascended, in order to enjoy the view of the 
city, the islands, the Adriatic, and the distant 
Alpine chain. 

The most interesting route from Venice to 
Innspruck, as well as the most direct, is by the 
Pass of Ampezzo. The road is in excellent 
condition, but there is as yet no public convey- 
ance. Leaving Mestre on the main land, you 
pass through a beautiful and fertile plain, with 
viUas and gardens on either side of the road, 
especially about Treviso, where the people are 
good-looking, many of the women being remark- 
able for their beauty, which is heightened by 
their becoming costume. Ceneda, the termina- 
tion of the first-day's journey, en voiturier, lies 
in a picturesque situation at the foot of the Alps, 
and between gently-rising verdant hills, on the 
highest of which are the remains of a castle. 
Shortly after leaving this small town, a gradual 
ascent commences between mountains, wooded at 
their base, and terminating in lofty snow-covered 



PASS OF AMPEZZO. 199 

peaks. From Seravalle to Loiigaroiie the road 
is, for the most part, level. The town of Belluno 
lies a few miles on the left. After Longarone is 
a gradual ascent to the next post, Perarolo, 
which lies at the base of a mountain, from 
whence the ascent to Venas presents a succession 
of varied scenery, equal to some of the most 
picturesque parts of Smtzerland. The drive 
from Venas to Ampezzo, and through the defile, 
liliewise exhibit views of the highest order of 
sublimity and beauty; the numerous masses of 
bare rock of various hues, with snow-tipped 
peaks, forming a series of strildng contrasts with 
the wooded acclivities of the mountains. From 
Ampezzo to Landro, a drive of three hours, 
the interest of the scenery is scarcely surpassed 
by that of the most celebrated Alpine passes. 

Shortly after leaving the latter town, you 
emerge upon the beautiful Pusterthal, in the 
Tyrol, which, from the high state of cultivation, 
and the neat appearance of the numerous farm- 
houses and cottages, appears to be the abode of 
peace and contentment. 

Brunnecken, the chief town of the district, 
lies in a picturesque position ; some miles beyond 
which, at the entrance of a narrow defile, a new 
fort, with extensive fortifications along the 
heights, has lately been constructed by the 
Austrian government, and \\'ould fcnin an in- 
surmountable impediment to llie passag(> of a 
hostile force. 



200 INNSPRUCK. 

After a succession of ascents and descents, you 
arrive at Sterzing, a neat town on the high road 
from Verona to Innspruck, and at the foot of 
the Brenner, which is the lowest, and least 
interesting, in a scenic point of view, of the 
passes of the Alps. Before arriving at Innspruck, 
however, you have to cross the Schonberg, which 
well deserves its name for the beauty of its 
scenery, and also from the view presented from 
its summit of the town, and numerous detached 
houses scattered along the valley of the Inn, the 
verdure of which pleasingly contrasts with the 
dark, rugged, and snow-tipped masses of the 
Alpine chain, extending from east to west, and 
forming an apparently impassable barrier. 

Innspruck, the capital of the Tyrol, contains 
about 14,000 inhabitants^ and is a handsome 
clean town, the appearance of which is greatly 
improved within the last few years. The view 
along the principal street is striking, most of 
the houses being white-washed, several new 
buildings having lately been erected. The quays 
along the Inn, as well as the public garden, have 
likewise been enlarged and embellished. This 
river is here about half as wide as the Thames 
at Westminster. From the centre of the bridge 
a magnificent prospect may be enjoyed up and 
down the vaUey, and of the lofty mountain 
ranges on either side. Innspruck possesses two 
handsome churches, the Frauenkirche and the 
Hoffkirche, in which latter is the splendid tomb 



ROUTE TO MUNICH. 201 

of the Emperor Maximilian, and colossal bronze 
figures of se^'eral sovereigns of the early ages, 
among which are Clovis, Godfrey of Bouillon, 
Charles the Bold, Rudolph of Hapsburg, with 
other well-knoAvn historical personages. A 
statue to the memory of Hofer has recently 
been placed in this church over his tomb. The 
museum likewise contains several objects of 
interest, and will well repay the trouble of a 
visit.* 

On leaving Innspruck for Bavaria, the traveller 
descends the valley to Schwatz — a neat town on 
the road to Salzburg. The Castle of Ambras 
stands on an elevated position, a few miles from 
Innspruck, and looks well from a distance, but 
does not now contain any object of interest, the 
rich collection of ancient armour, &c., having 
been removed, a few years ago, to Vienna, and 
forms one of the sights of the capital best worth 
seeing. Hall, celebrated for its salt-works, also 
lies on this road. From Schwatz an iiidift'erent 
cross-road, in many parts too narrow to admit of 
two carriages passing each other, leads to 
Achcnthal and its lake, which is surrounded by 
magnificent scenery ; in some parts lofty and 
sterile mountains rise perpendicularly from the 
water, as at the lake of Wallenstadt. 

After about four hours' drive from tlie head of 

* The Tyrolcsc were always faitlifiil aillieiiiits of tlic House oC Ilajis- 
burg ; the Emperor was coii8C((ueiilly iiuliiccd lo select it for an abode on 
quitting- Vienna, on account of the recent dibturbanccs. 



202 KREUTH. 

the lake, through a highly picturesque country, 
where the inhabitants appear to have lost none 
of their primitive manners and hospitality, you 
arrive at the beautiful lake Tegernsee, at the base 
of the Alps, which is greatly resorted to in the 
summer months by the higher class of Bavarians. 
The town at the extremity of the lake affords 
excellent accommodation, and the surrounding 
scenery is beautiful and varied. 

The watering-place Kreuth, which is likewise 
greatly resorted to by the inhabitants of Munich, 
lies more among the mountains, about two hours' 
drive from Tegernsee. It consists of two large 
lodging-houses joined together, a public room, or 
Cursaal, with baths and outhouses. Not more 
than two hundred persons could be accommodated 
at the same time. Many of those who pay it a 
visit are induced to do so as much on account 
of the purity and bracing qualities of the air as 
for the waters, which do not possess any very 
efficient medicinal properties. A great proj)or- 
tion of the invalids labour imder pulmonary 
complaints, and drink goats' milk or whey 
(molkenkur), which is combined with the use 
of the baths. 

From Tegernsee to Munich the country is flat 
and devoid of interest to the passing traveller. 
This road from Innspruck should not be selected 
by persons who are encumbered with a carriage: 
the post-road to Munich, though somewhat 
shorter, is less interesting. 



CHAPTER XI. 

ilUNIClI -PUBLIC BUILDINGS — CLIMATE-THE DANUBE-GASTEIN— 
VIENNA-CAVE OF ADELSBERG— TRIESTE. 

There is, perhaps, no city where so much has 
been clone in the way of embelUshment and the 
erection of public buildings of late years as at 
Munich. The modern part presents a strong- 
contrast with the irregularly built old town and 
its antique-looking houses, the new streets being 
regular, wide, and well paved, consisting, for the 
most part, of palaces and private houses, three 
stories high, several of them having a garden 
attached. The style of architecture of the new 
jiublic edifices is chaste and peculiar, and the 
interior decorations are exceedingly rich and 
tasteful, the whole having been designed by King 
Louis, and executed by Von Klenzc. His 
Majesty, indeed, was ever a great j^'^^tron of the 
fine arts, on which account Munich is much 
resorted to, both by native and foreign artists. 
The circumstances attending his rec(>nt abdication, 
from his disinclination to identify liimself witli 
the new order of things, are still fresh in the 
public mind. The present king is of an amiable 



204 MUNICH. 

disposition, liberal in politics, and, as Crown 
Prince, was always very popular. He speaks 
English remarkably well, as do also the majority 
of the upper class of Bavarians, among whom 
French is comparatively little spoken. 

Of the public edifices, the Pinacothek first 
merits notice, both on account of its intrinsic 
beauty, and of the magnificent collection of 
pictures which it contains, especially those of 
Murillo and Rubens, and which many persons 
prefer to that of Dresden ; but I shall, as on 
former occasions, abstain from description, which, 
indeed, would be superfluous after the minute 
and correct accounts given in the " Hand Book 
for Southern Germany," and merely enumerate 
as a few of the paintings which more particularly 
attracted my attention, the following : — The 
Saviour Bearing the Cross, by Albert Durer; 
Misers, by Matsys; Heads of an Old Man and 
AVoman, by Denner ; a Burgomaster of Antwerp 
and his Wife, by Vandyck ; the Interior of a 
Church, by Delorme; Portrait of a Turk, by 
Pembrandt ; by Gerard Dow, a Mountebank ; a 
Hermit, an Old Woman Spinning, a Young 
AVoman ■ Knitting at a Window, and a Portrait 
of himself ; the Fallen Angels, by Pubens ; 
Pubens' Wife ; the large picture of the Last 
Judgment ; a Madonna and Infant ; the Murder 
of the Innocents; a Priest holding a Skull, Mieris; 
a Girl with a Parrot ; a similar subject, by 
Netschar; Peasants Quarrelling, by Ostade ; 



MUNICH. 205 

three small pictures by Teiiiers ; Bogg-ar Boys 
Eating Fruit, a chef iVanivre of Murillo ; also 
a Girl Buying Fruit, scarcely inferior to the 
former; Marine Views, by Vernet ; Madonna 
and Child with a Lily, by Carlo Dolce ; also 
St. Agnes, the Madonna, Infant St. Joseph, and 
a Monk, by Titian ; Portrait of a Lady, by Paris 
Bordone ; the Saviour Crowned with Thorns, by 
Guercino ; Madonna and Infant, by Raphael ; 
Mona Lisa, by Leonardo da Vinci. 

In the Leuchtenberg collection vdW be more 
particularly remarked Murillo's Madonna and 
Infant, a chefcVoeuvre; Sunset, by Salvator Rosa ; 
his own Portrait, by Rembrandt ; Madonna and 
Child on the Ground, by Correggio ; the Woman 
taken in Adultery, by Guercino ; a Student, by 
Gerard Dow; and a half-length Portrait of 
Petrarch's Laura, which will certainly disappoint 
the expectations of those who expect to see the 
picture of a handsome woman, there being no 
traces of the 



nor of the 



Crespe chiome (Tor puro luccnte 
E'l lampeggiar dell' angelico riso,' 



Begli ocelli che i cor fanno smalti," 



which are so frequently and plaintively apostro- 
phized by the Poet ; Laura may, however, have 
sat for this portrait when somewhat advanced 
in life. Here are likewise two of Cano\a's b(^st 
works — the Graces and the Majjrdalcn. 



206 MUNICH. 

The Glyptothek, or gallery of statues, is an 
elegant structure of white stone, which is the 
first object that attracts the traveller's attention 
on entering Munich from Augsburg. The 
interior is richly and tastefully decorated, the 
ceiling of each apartment being composed of 
stucco-work of a different design and colours, 
white and gold, or green and gold, being the 
most predominant 1 the walls are plain scagliola, 
and the floors of variegated marbles. The 
statues, too, though not very numerous, are 
select, and are placed so as to be exhibited to 
the greatest advantage. Among them are the 
celebrated Egina marbles, the Barberini Faun, 
Iloneus, Jason, and other choice pieces. The 
last room is appropriated to modern sculpture; 
it contains the Paris and the Venus of Canova, 
a bust of Napoleon, and of the king, by Thor- 
waldsen. 

The Royal Palace is likewise decorated in a 
rich and peculiar style, with carving and fresco- 
painting, which, from the encouragement afforded 
by the ex-king, has been brought to great per- 
fection in Bavaria. The floor of each apartment 
is inlaid with woods of different colours, and, 
contrasted with the frescoed ceilings and walls, 
produces a rich effect. The large bronze-gilt 
statues of former sovereigns, adorning the throne- 
room, likewise afford indication of the taste of 
King Louis, by whom the art of bronze-gilding 
has been revived and perfected. 



MUNICH. 207 

On one side of the Palace is the Hof-Garten, 
a large space, planted with trees, where the 
military bands frequently play in the afternoon, 
and enclosed between arcades, the walls of 
which are painted in fresco, with views of 
Italy and Sicily, or illustrative of the history of 
Bavaria. 

On the other side is the principal square (with 
the bronze statue of the late king, seated, in the 
centre), in which are the new post-office and the 
theatre, which is connected with the palace by a 
covered gallery, so that the king can go from one 
to the other without going out of doors. The 
theatre is one of the largest and handsomest 
in Germany, and is well calculated for hearing. 
The corps drmnatique, both in the operatic and 
tragic department, is excellent. The performances 
here, as in other parts of Germany, begin about 
six, and seldom last more than four hours. 

The love of music, though universal in 
Germany, is, perhaps, greater in Bavaria than 
elsewhere, and is more diffused among all classes. 
Military bands play almost daily at stated hours. 
Public and amateur concerts are given about 
twice a week in the winter, in the Odeon, or one 
of the other large rooms appropriated to the 
purpose, and to balls, which are also of frequent 
occurrence, the love of dancing being no less 
general than that of music, though little else 
than the waltz is seen. The Germans seem to 
like dancing purely for its o^^m sak(> ; many 



208 MUNICH, 

scarcely speak a word to their partners during 
the whole time, and hand them to their seat 
immediately after the waltz or gallopade is over ; 
whereas, in England, conversation is the chief 
inducement with a large proportion of the 
gentlemen who stand up to dance ; hence 
quadrilles are so much more general. Waltzing 
may be seen to greater perfection in Vienna and 
Munich than elsewhere. In the Rhenish countries 
it is but indifferent. 

There are, besides, numerous houses of enter- 
tainment in the environs of Munich, as of most 
other German towns, where inferior shopkeepers, 
soldiers, and others of the lower classes resort, 
in the summer evenings and on holidays (which 
are numerous), to dance and drink beer or tea. 
The movements of the dancers are generally 
more active and energetic than elegant, and in 
many of them profuse perspiration is induced by 
their exertions. A love of pleasure is, in fact, 
predominant among the inhabitants of Southern 
Germany, and great laxity of morals is said to 
prevail, especially in the two last-mentioned 
cities. There is, however, in general, more 
heart among the Germans of all ranks than in 
some other civilized countries which could be 
named, and strangers, properly introduced, are, 
for the most part, cordially received. Society is 
less exclusively divided into coteries at Munich 
than at Vienna, where, however, it is less so 
than many persons have imagined, from reading 



MUNICH. 209 

the account given of the A^iennese, by Mrs. Trol- 
lope, a few years ago. 

Tlie churches m Munich exhibit a great variety 
with respect to architecture. The cathedral, 
^\ith its two large brick towers, is a heavy-looking 
structure; its interior is plain, and rather sombre. 
St. Michael's Church is built more in the Italian 
style, and resembles, interiorly, several of the 
churches of Rome and Florence. The Church 
of the Theatines is one of the most prominent 
public edifices ; in its interior it is profusely 
ornamented with stucco-work. The two most 
interesting churches, however, are the newly- 
erected one in the suburb Au, and the All Saints' 
Church, behind the palace. The contrast bietween 
these is very striking, not only the style of 
architecture, but also the internal aspect, being 
totally different. The former is a light gothic 
edifice, plain internally, almost the only decora- 
tion being the finely painted glass windoA^'s : the 
art of painting on glass having now been brought 
to a state of great perfection under the auspices 
of King Louis. The All Saints' Church has 
a handsome and chaste appearance exterioiiy; 
internally it is embellished with fresco paintings 
and arabesques, which produce a rich effect 
without being gaudy, though perhaps less cal- 
culated to excite feelings of devotion than the 
plain or gothic style. The Protestant Church is 
a neat edifice, contrasting with tli(^ other 
churches in the style of its architecture, and 

r 



210 MUNICH. 

forms the most prominent object of one of the 
Places. 

The new building for the library is one of the 
handsomest in Munich. The collection of books 
is said tb be the largest in Europe after the 
Bibliotheque National at Paris. There is likcAvise 
a large collection of ancient manuscripts, and 
finely-illustrated Bibles and missals. Strangers, 
who have a proper recommendation, are allowed 
to take home for perusal any books they please. 

Munich is the seat of an university, where, 
however, there are but few students from other 
parts of Germany. 

The hospital, immediately outside of the to^vn, 
is a handsome modern building, the interior 
disposition of which will afford gratification to 
the casual visitor, and might serve as a model 
for similar institutions in other parts of the 
Continent. It is principally supported by a 
trifling tax, levied among the townspeople, to 
which servants and others of an inferior order 
contribute, and when ill thus acquire a claim for 
admission. The wards are small, but clean and 
airy, being disposed along spacious corridors; 
each contains about twenty beds, the total num- 
ber of beds being about four hundred. 

Munich is comparatively free from epidemics, 
and is, on the whole, a healthy place of residence. 
The most prevalent diseases are thoracic inflam- 
mations, gastric and nervous fevers, rheumatism, 
and scrofulous complaints. The state of medicine 



MUNICH. 211 

and surgery, though superior to Vienna, is 
inferior to Berlin. Diseases of the eyes are like- 
wise prevalent. These, as well as the surgical 
department at the hospital, were formerly under 
the direction of Professor Walther, who enjoys a 
well-merited reputation as a surgeon and ocidist. 
Near to the hospital is the spacious public 
Cemetery, containing several handsome marble 
monuments, hung Avith chaplets of flowers ; 
which are likewise cultivated in patches of earth 
between the graves. At the further extremity 
is a semicircular colonnade, with central rooms, 
where the dead lie exposed — generally dressed 
in their gayest attire, with bouquets of flowers 
placed in their bosom — for about twenty-four 
hours. This practice is pretty general in other 
parts of Germany. 

The public prison will repay the trouble of a 
visit to those who feel an interest in such 
matters. There are several workshops, as manu- 
factures of cloth, articles of clothing, &c., on 
which the prisoners are employed, complete 
silence being enjoined. A certain share of the 
proceeds is allotted to them, so that when their 
time of imprisonment expires, they may not be 
altogether destitute. The punishment of death 
very rarely takes place in Bavaria, as no one can 
be executed, however strong the evidence, unless 
the culprit acknowledge himself guilty of the 
crime of which he is accused. Those who are 
convicted of the more atrocious crimes are 



212 MUNICH. 

confined for a series of years or for life, or are 
employed in the public highways, each having 
the legs chained so as to prevent escape. Some 
of these criminals are confined in ill-ventilated 
cells, scarcely large enough to contain the four 
individuals who are lodged in each, with iron 
bolts attached to their legs ; in the day-time their 
beds are placed upright against the wall, and 
they are occupied in carding cotton, never being- 
allowed to leave their cells, to the unhealthiness 
of which their countenances bear the strongest 
testimony. 

Among the other objects of interest in Munich 
is the Museum, which contains the Brazilian 
collection of arms, dresses, insects, flowers, &c., 
brought over by Dr. Von Martins, one of the 
most distinguished of the Bavarian savans, who, 
several years ago, accompanied Dr. Spix on a 
scientific expedition to the Brazils. Schwantha- 
ler's studio contains some good specimens of 
sculpture. 

The bronze obelisk in the Carolinen Platz, 
erected to the memory of the 30,000 Bavarians 
who perished in the Russian campaign, seen 
from a distance, especially Avhen the sun is 
shining upon it, has a rich golden appearance. 
The colossal statue representing Bavaria, 56 feet 
high, outside the city, will be seen Avith interest. 

An extensive park, continued from the Hof- 
garten, and termed the English garden (through 
which the water of the Isere is diverted to supply 



MUNICH. 213 

an extensive lake), is the usual place of resort for 
equipages and pedestrians. It is in many parts 
shaded by fine rows of trees, and in some 
measure compensates for the want of interest in 
the environs of the city. 

The railroad, w^hich has been some years open 
to Augsburg, whence it is in process of con- 
struction to Stutgard and the Rhine, is continued 
in the northern direction through Nuremberg 
and Bamberg, whence the line will, ere long, 
be completed to Leipsic, thus forming steam 
communication w ith Belgium, Paris, and London, 
on the one hand, and with Cracow, Warsaw, and 
the Baltic, on the other. 

In point of climate, I consider Munich less 
objectionable than most other German capitals, 
for, although the snow usually lies thick upon 
the ground for three or four months, and the 
thermometer is often several degrees below the 
freezing point, yet the sky is generally clear, and, 
considering the elevated position of the city (the 
highest in Europe except Madrid), there is but 
little wind ; the cold is consequently rather 
bracing and salutary than the reverse. Sledges 
here, and at Vienna, are in constant use, some of 
them being very handsomely painted, and the 
horses gaily caparisoned. 

The most unpleasant sort of weather is in the 
spring, during the thaw, when also rain frequently 
falls, and walking in tlie streets is almost im- 
practicable. The houses arc Avell-adaiHed to 



214 THE VALHALLA. 

exclude the cold, being for the most part fur- 
nished with double windows, and warmed by 
stoves, which, though preventing drafts of air and 
imparting to the apartment an equable tempera- 
ture, yet disagree with many persons not accus- 
tomed to them — causing head-ache and other 
unpleasant symptoms. In summer the heat is at 
times oppressive, and the more so, from the 
deficiency of shade in the environs. Though a 
winter residence at Munich would not be recom- 
mended to delicate invalids, it would agree well 
with many patients affected with nervous dis- 
orders, which a more relaxing climate (as Italy) 
would tend to aggravate. 

About sixteen hours are required for the 
journey by road from Munich to Ratisbon, which 
town, however interesting it may be from its 
historical associations, would offer little induce- 
ment to the traveller for delaying his departure. 
Steamers descend the Danube in two days to 
Vienna, arriving the first day at Linz. Ratisbon 
and the adjacent territory belong to the Prince 
of Tour and Taxis, who has a chateau in the 
neighbourhood, near to which stands the Val- 
halla, a temple erected by the King of Bavaria, 
of the same dimensions, and of a similar style of 
architecture, as the Parthenon at Athens, and 
containing statues and busts of the most eminent 
characters to which Germany has given birth. 
From the elevated position of the Valhalla, a 
good view of the course of the Danube, and of 



THE DANUBE. 215 

an extensive tract of country, may be enjoyed. 
The building itself, composed of white stone, is 
seen from a considerable distance, and produces a 
fine effect. Von Klenze, the celebrated architect 
under whose superintendance most of the modern 
buildings of Munich have been constructed, had 
likewise the formation of this magnificent 
monument. 

The current of the Danube is more rapid than 
that of the Rhine, and the river is exceedingly 
shallow in many parts, which were obstacles 
to the establishment of steam-boats till within 
the last few years, when iron ones, which require 
but little depth of water, were constructed for 
the purpose. The scenery is in many parts 
highly romantic and picturesque, the country 
wild, and but thinly populated. Ruined castles, 
shrines, and richly endowed monasteries, are ever 
and anon seen in conspicuous positions on the 
banks. Among these the bold ruins of Diu*enstein 
(the prison of Cceur dc Lion), and the convents 
of Molk and Neuburg, occupying commanding 
positions, will particularly attract attention. The 
towns and villages arc few and far between. 

Lengthened description is not intended in 
this work; nevertheless, being unwilling to 
dismiss the Danube with a mere cursory notice, 
I will deviate from my accustomed course, 
and subjoin a brief sketch of its scenery from the 
])en of a graphic writer : — " A little beyond 
Passau the bed of llu^ river became suddenly 



216 THE DANUBE. 

contracted, and the roaring torrent forced its way- 
onward with considerable violence. In some 
places the nearly perpendicular rocks were 
entirely destitute of vegetation, except a few 
stunted shrubs: again, another magic sweep 
expanded it into an extensive lake, overhung by 
majestic hills, covered with every description of 
foliage, from the wide-spreading oak to the spire- 
like pine on the summit; cascatelles were 
bounding from branch to branch, covering the 
leafy mantle as it were with diamond spangles 
and wreaths of crystal, and then foaming into 
the watery abyss — and thus the scenery con- 
tinued, with but little variation, till we came to 
Engelhardzell, the first town of Austria. 

" The morning we left Engelhardzell 1 had an 
opportunity of seeing for the first time one of 
the Danube fogs, which hung in a dense mass 
of floating vapour upon every object, rendering 
them totally impervious to the organ of vision. 
About eight o'clock the fog entirely disappeared, 
and we were impelled forward very rapidly. The 
bed of the river being now entirely composed of 
Large rocks, the passage of the stream was most 
turbulent, and our boat was buffetted about as if 
in a storm. The dreary crags on each side arose 
to such an altitude as to exclude all prospect 
over the adjacent country, and in truth the 
scenery was so wild, and the signs of human 
habitation so few, that a traveller might deem 
he had arrived in a country in a state of infancy ; 



GASTEIN BATH. 217 

and the a])peariince of the Castle of Reinech, 
with its majestic towers, is hailed with pleasure. 
From this place a succession of picturesque 
rocks, ruins, villages, and lofty hills, finely 
wooded, accompany us to Aschach where the 
country opens to our view, and the river assumes 
the form of an immense lake ; then, after passing 
Ottenheim, with its pretty castle, we landed at 
Urfer, the faubourg of Linz, the capital of 
Upper Austria." 

From Linz to the beautiful lake of Traum is a 
railroad, the carriages being drawn by horses at 
the rate of nine miles an hour ; a small steamer 
now navigates the lake, so that travellers from 
the Danube can reach with speed and facility 
the romantic region of the Salzkammergut, and 
visit the salt springs of Ischl, which, lying in a 
most picturesque position, 1,500 feet above the 
level of the sea, is greatly resorted to in summer 
both on account of its coolness and the efficacy 
of the waters. 

Some German miles southward of Ischl, and a 
few hours drive from Salzburg, lies the Bath 
Gastein, called also AVildbad Gastein, in a 
romantically secluded position, among the snow- 
tipped pine-covered Alps, and on the edge of the 
mountain-torrent Ache, which forms at this point 
a fine waterfall. It is one of the highest baths 
in Europe, being 3,000 feet above the level of 
the Mediterranean : the climate is consequently 
raw and unsettled. Even on the longest days 



218 GASTEIN BATH. 

the sun's influence is but little felt (except in the 
middle of the day, at which time the heat is 
often oppressive), as it rises late above, and sets 
early behind, the adjacent mountains, which are 
not unfrequently enveloped in clouds. From 
these causes, and from the spray of the waterfall, 
the mornings and evenings are generally cold, 
and often damp ; yet the high reputation which 
the springs have acquired renders the place 
thronged during the season, and many persons 
are obliged to leave for want of accommodation, 
which, however, may be obtained better at Hof- 
Gastein, a village about three-quarters of a mile 
lower down the mountain, in a more open and 
agreeable position, sheltered from the north and 
east winds, enjoying a milder and drier atmo- 
sphere, and less liable to sudden transitions than 
Wildbad; whence the water of the principal 
spring is conveyed through pipes of pine and 
larch wood, by which it loses somewhat of its 
heat; though this cannot render its action 
different from what it is at the source ; as being 
too hot for bathing, it is allowed to remain all 
night in the baths at Gastein to cool down to 
the proper temperature. 

There are several establishments of public and 
private baths. At the Schloss, belonging to the 
Archduke, where visitors can be lodged, there is 
a bath in which about a dozen persons can bathe 
at the same time. The baths of Straubinger's old 
and new hotels are divided into the Fursten and 



THE DANUBE. 219 

Capuciner; where baths are taken in common, 
part of the latter being apijropriated to ladies. 
Some patients remain a long time in the waters, 
and some even bathe twice in the day, though 
these cases are comparatively rare. " The com- 
mon bath," says Dr. Streintz, '' in which ladies 
and gentlemen assemble together, contains 365 
cubic feet of water, and requires nearly four 
hours to fill it. It will accommodate fifteen or 
sixteen persons, who can walk about in the 
water, or rest upon the seats Avhich are fixed 
there for the purpose. At each side of the bath 
is a large dressing-room, one for the men, the 
other for the women. Around the bath runs a 
gallery, where the friends of the bathers can 
assemble and enter into conversation with them."* 

There are numerous springs rising on the bank 
and in the river. Those most employed are the 
Furstenquelle (temperature 37" R.), the Doctors- 
quelle (38°), the Hauptquelle (38°), and the 
Straubingerquelle (36°). A spring, rising in the 
Ache, supplies the horse bath. The quantity of 
solid substance and gas in the water is very 
small ; scarcely two grains of the former, and a 
cubic inch of the latter to the pint. 

The distance from JAnz to Vienna is about 
sixty leagues. " Having resumed our voyage," 
continues the above-quoted author, " the scenery 
that presented itself was of the most beautiful 
description — an ever-changing panorama. First 

* Les Baiiis dc Gastciii. 



220 THE DANUBE. 

we had luxuriant meadows and corn-fields, swell- 
ing into gentle hills, clothed with the rich verdure 
of June, the whole dotted over with the white 
cottages of the peasants, and animated by 
numerous groups of cattle. We then came to a 
plain where the Danube gradually expanded into 
an immense lake, intersected by several green 
islands, enlivened by immense flocks of aquatic 
birds; this terminated by contracting into a 
mountain gorge, formed by tremendous piles of 
rocks, with their fantastic peaks, dark, gloomy, 
and nearly destitute of vegetation. Each moment 
our progress seemed barred by an impassable 
chain of rocks, until, by turning a tiny cape, we 
found ourselves within another mountain lake, 
surrounded by yawning abysses and frowning 
precipices, which, overspread with the sable pall 
of the pine, gave to the whole a character at once 
wild and supernatural; and thus it continued, 
curve upon curve, lake upon lake, until we 
arrived at Sturm, with its dreaded Saurussel. 

" Here everything concurs to increase the 
interest of the scene, the terrific roar of the 
river, and the rapidity Avith which it rushes 
through its frightful gorge, exhibiting one mass 
of boiling foam, the stupendous height and 
threatening altitude of the rocks, which seem to 
menace us with certain destruction as we 
advance ; the dim twilight, the anxiety pictured 
on the countenances of the passengers, their 
prayers to St. Nicholas and the Madonna, the 



THE DANUBE. 221 

shouts of the captain and his men, hurrying to 
and fro, combine to raise a slight feeling of 
apprehension even in those whose nerves are 
iron-bound; but in a moment the dreaded Sau- 
russel is passed, and nothing is heard but thanks 
and gratitude for the intercession of the saints."* 
Vienna is now brought beneath the eye of 
those interested in being acquainted with it by 
the fine panoramic tableau exhibiting in Leicester 
Square. The city itself is but limited in extent, 
being circumscribed between high ramparts, on 
which are promenades commanding delightful 
views of its numerous extensive suburbs and 

* " Sketches of Germany and the Germans, by a resident Englishman." 
This author, like myself, descended the Danube by a passage-boat or raft, 
before the days of steam navigation above Vienna, by which the romance 
attending the various incidents has been destroyed. Neither are implora- 
tions to the Madonna at present nearly so common as formerly. The 
subjoined hymn, set to music as sung by the boatmen and peasantry, the 
translation of which is given in Russell's " Germany," would have a fine 
effect :— 

HYMN TO THE VIRGIN ON THE DANUBE. 

" Fading, still fading, the last beam is shining, 
Ave Maria, day is declining. 
Safety and innocence fly with the light, 
Temptation and danger walk fortli with the niglit: 
From the fall of the shade till the matin shall chime, 
Siiield us from dangers, and save us from crime. 

Ave Maria Audi nos. 
" Ave Maria! hear when we call, 
Moliicr of Ilini who was brotiier to all. 
Feeble and liiiling, we trust in thy might, 
In doubting and darkness thy love be our ligiit ; 
Let us sleep on thy breast wliile tiie night-taper l)urns, 
Anil wake in Ihine arms when tlie morning returns. 

Ave Maiia Audi noa." 



222 VIENNA. 

parks, Avith the Danube and lofty Kahlenberg 
beyond. The esplanade, laid out with alleys of 
trees, forms also an agreeable promenade imme- 
diately beneath the Bastei. Perhaps no where is 
there so great a variety of public walks, of which 
the principal are the Prater, the Volksgarten, 
the Augarten, and Theresiengarten, in which are 
numerous houses of entertainment, games, fire- 
works, and other sources for recreation. On 
holidays one or more concerts are given either 
in the promenades or in the environs; those 
presided over by Strauss being the most nume- 
rously attended. 

The streets of the city are necessarily narrower 
than those of the suburbs ; the houses, however, 
are more lofty and solidly built, many of the 
palaces being of a grand and imposing style of 
architecture. The fine gothic cathedral Saint 
Stephen's stands near the centre of the city, its 
lofty spire (the highest except Strasburg) forming 
the most conspicuous object. In the Augustine 
Church the visitor will behold with high gratifi- 
cation one of Canova's chefs d'wtivre, the monu- 
ment sculptured in grey marble to the memory 
of Archduchess Christine. In the other churches 
there is little to attract the attention. Of the 
squares, the Josephsplatz is the principal, Vienna 
not having greatly to boast in this respect : the 
equestrian statue of the emperor adorns the 
centre. The imperial palace is not remarkable 
interiorly, but contains an immense collection of 



VIENNA. 223 

Avorks of art. The library saloon, two hundred 
and sixty feet long, with a fine dome in its centre, 
and ornamented with marble statues of the rulers 
of Austria, is peculiarly striking. It contains 
more than three hundred thousand volumes in all 
languages, and a large collection of manuscri2)ts, 
including the original of Tasso's " Gerusaleme." 
The treasury is richly endowed, and will likewise 
occupy a share of the visitor's attention ; as also 
the fine collection of cameos, antique medals, 
&c., in the Augustine corridor. 

The Belvedere Palace contains the picture 
gallery, which some persons prefer to that of 
Mimich. It is especially rich in the works of 
Flemish and German artists, among which may 
be more particularly specified three of Ruben's 
chefs d'ceuvre, St. Ignatius, St. Ildefonso, and St. 
Ambrosius; there is also a fine portrait of 
Charles I., by Vandyke ; and the mother of Rem- 
brandt, by this painter. The heads of an old 
man and woman, by Denner, are particidaiiy 
well executed. 

In the Itahan School Raphael's " Holy Family" 
is considered as one of the finest of this painter's 
productions; the "Holy Family" of Titian is 
likewise a celebrated production : the gallery is 
rich in the works of this master. There arc 
likewise some fine Correggios, Tintorettos, and 
works of Salvator Rosa, and others of the best 
Italian painters. The gallery also contains the 
splended mosaic of the " Last Su])i)(r," by 



224 VIENNA. 

Leonardo da Vinci, parts of the original at 
Milan being scarcely distinguishable. On the 
ground floor is a rich collection of ancient 
armour, with portraits of several of the most 
distinguished members of the house of Hapsburg. 

The arsenals contain, besides the collection of 
arms, many objects of historical interest, as the 
armour of Charles V., Godfrey de Bouillon's hat, 
numerous spoils taken from the Turks, «&c. 

The theatres are well conducted, the orchestras 
and corps dramatique the best in kind. Perform- 
ance begins at six and closes about nine, as else- 
where in Germany. The Viennese, like the 
Bavarians, are great lovers of music and dancing, 
amusements having been encouraged by the 
government as a means of preventing a too close 
attention to political matters; which, however, 
has not prevented the revolutionary movements 
which have agitated the rest of Europe from 
extending to the Austrian capital, and causing 
the flight of the minister who for the greater 
part of half a century ruled the destinies of the 
empire, and the subsequent departure of the 
Emperor to Innspruck. 

Strangers were not well received unless highly 
introduced, or forming part of the noblesse ; nor 
indeed, however delightful for a brief visit, would 
Vienna ofler much inducement for the protracted 
sojourn of many English travellers, though living- 
be cheap and the resources of a capital are at 
command. Except the evening reunions there 



VIENNA. 225 

is but little society, fables iVhotc are not in vogue, 
dinners a la carte, and at from one to three 
o'clock, being the usual custom. From the great 
atmospheric vicissitudes to which Vienna is 
subject, its comparative humidity, the frequent 
prevalence of northerly and easterly winds, and 
the exclusion from tliose of the south by the 
chain of Tyi'olean and Carnic Alps, this city 
would not be an agreeable winter residence as 
respects climate ; while in summer the oppressive 
licat and dust are annoyances to which it requires 
one to be accustomed. 

There are in Vienna numerous scientific and 
charitable establishments. The University is in 
high repute ; it possesses an observatory, an 
anatomical theatre, a botanical garden, museum 
of natural history, &c. The hospitals are large 
and well conducted, though the state of medicine, 
with the exception of the treatment of diseases 
of the eyes, is inferior to Berlin. There is like- 
wise at Vienna an Oriental Academy, founded 
by Joseph II., for educating young men in 
the languages of the east, and thus supplying 
well-informed secretaries to the embassies in 
that quarter of the world ; as also the Theresian 
Academy, founded by Maria Theresa, for edu- 
cating the sons of the aristocracy. In the 
Medico-Cliirurgical Academy the collection of 
wax anatomical figures nearly equals that of 
Florence, being by the same artist. 

In the immediate environs is tlie Palace of 

Q 



226 ADELSBERG. 

Schonbrunn, with its gardens, which will repay 
the trouble of a visit. It is said that Napoleon, 
when quartered here, was struck with the portrait 
of Maria Louisa, which caused his alliance with 
the imperial family. An agreeable excursion 
may be made to the romantically situated bath 
of Baden, which in summer is greatly resorted to 
by the Viennese : its waters are sulphurous. 

The scenery of the river between Vienna, 
Presburg, and Pesth, is comparatively uninterest- 
ing ; a railroad is in progress of construction to 
unite the capitals of Austria and Hungary. That 
to the Adriatic at Trieste is already completed, 
passing through the finest part of Styria, of 
which the capital, Gratz, beyond the beauty of 
its position, possesses no inducement for the 
majority of travellers to delay their departure; 
the streets being narrow and badly paved, and 
there being no public edifices worth visiting. 
Halfway between Laybach and Trieste, amidst 
highly romantic scenery, is the celebrated Cave 
of Adelsberg, of which the subjoined account 
is given by the author whom I have already 
quoted : — 

" We proceeded through a long spacious gallery 
of about a hundred paces, when it suddenly 
opened into an immense cavern of the most 
colossal height, but this was the mere vestibule 
to the most magnificent of Nature's temples ; for 
at length we arrived beneath a vast dome whose 
altitude by torch light seemed immeasurable. 



ADELSBERG. 227 

This splendid hall is fifty feet broad, seventy 
long, and encvnsted with stalactites of the most 
surpassing beauty, sparkling like diamonds, 
and appeared worthy of being the palace of the 
Gnome King himself; the floor is quite level, 
and a few wooden benches and rustic chandeliers 
told that this was the hall in which the peasants, 
by a merry dance, celebrate annually the festival 
of their patron saint. From hence the cavern 
branches off in different directions, not in long 
galleries, but in a succession of grottos. Those to 
the left are numerous, spacious, and lofty, while 
the others, though smaller, are more varied in 
their fantastic forms. As we advance they 
become more elevated, and the columns more 
majestic, till, after traversing two leagues in the 
heart of the earth, our progress is terminated by 
a deep subterranean lake. It would be impossible 
to describe, with any degree of accuracy, the 
varied natural architecture of this city of stalac- 
tites. In one place we appear wandering through 
the aisles of a gothic cathedral, supported by 
columns of the most gigantic height, sometimes 
uniform, sometimes clustered together, as if 
fluted. Some of the smaller grottos are entirely 
inlaid with stalactites, and as they reflected the 
burning torches appeared one blaze of light. 
The sparry masses exhibited every form which 
the invention of the guides could devise : in one 
place we had crystal cascades of the most 
dazzling brightness ; in another rows of pillars 



228 ADELSBERG. 

ornamented with festoons ; here triumphal arches; 
there the Emperor's throne, surmounted by a 
crown. In short, the whole range appears as if 
real objects had been metamorphosed into crystal 
by the power of some mighty magician.* 

"However, it is not only the beauty of the 
stalactites,' and their innumerable forms, that 
arrest our attention, but the foaming river Poick, 
which here again makes its appearance, roaring 
in the horrible abyss beneath; by the side of 
whose frightful gorge, and across whose rocky 
bridges, we frequently bent our course. 

" Adelsberg is indeed the German grotto par 
eoocellence. Those at Muggendorf, however in- 
teresting, are mere mouse-holes compared with 
this, which equals in colossal grandeur its own 
gigantic Alps. In what other part of the world 
can we trace a river rushing through the bowels 
of the earth, or wander through an interminable 
succession of grottos'? — that is if we have courage 
to pursue our researches; for it is supposed to 
communicate with another grotto, some thirty 
miles distant, near Trieste." 

Another highly interesting excursion in this 
vicinity may be made to the quicksilver mines of 
Idria — of which, however, I need not enter into 
a description. 

Trieste is a handsome, bustling port-town, 
which oiFers little to attract the passing traveller. 

* Some idea of the beauty of these grottos may be formed from the 
exhibition at tlie Colosseum. 



TRIESTE. 229 

In the chief street, the Corso, lined with hand- 
some shops and cafis^ there are several fine 
buildings; of the churches the Jesuits' is best 
worth visiting. Trieste has more the aspect of 
an Italian than a German to^vn. Constant steam 
communication is kept up with Venice, Ancona, 
Corfu, and the East, a fine steamer leaving 
regularly for Alexandria. 



CHAPTER XIL 

NUREMBERG — FRANCONIAN SWITZERLAND — BOHEMIAN BATHS— 

FRANZENSBAD — MARIENBAD — CARLSBAD — PRAGUE— 

TEPLITZ-DRESDEN. 

Resuming the journey from Eatisbon northward, 
a hilly drive of twelve hours will bring the 
traveller to Nuremberg (now in direct railroad 
communication with Munich, Bamberg, &c.), 
which bears internal evidence of its high 
antiquity. The castle, crowning the hill, has been 
the scene of many an historical event, and com- 
mands an extensive prospect of the surrounding 
country. In the chapel are a few paintings of 
Albert Durer, whose house still remains in the 
same state as when he died. A venerable old 
lime tree has weathered some hundreds of years 
in the courtyard of the castle. The gothic church 
of St. Lawrence may vie with some of our 
English cathedrals, with respect to the solemn 
and impressive aspect of its cloistered aisles, 
and windows of stained glass, one of which is 
more than three hundred years old. St. Sebald's 
Church is likewise a fine old building, though 
of a different style to St. Lawrence. In the 
centre is the shrine, composed of a bronze casting, 
elaborately worked, in the form of a gothic 



NUREMBERG. 231 

chapel, with niches around, containing the figures 
of the apostles, whicli are admirably executed, 
and enclosing a chest in which are the relics of 
the saint. The artist, Vischer, has introduced 
among the figui'es, at the lower part, a repre- 
sentation of himself in his working costume. 
This work, which occupied Vischer and his 
sons thirteen years, was finished in 1529. 

Nuremberg contains at present about forty 
thousand inhabitants, all of whom, mth the 
exception of about six thousand, are Protestants ; 
whereas at Munich the bulk of the population 
are Catholics, who regard with some degree of 
jealousy their Protestant fellow-subjects of Nu- 
remberg. The Frauenkirch, or Catholic Church, 
is a small though handsome edifice in the 
market-place, where also stands the Schone- 
brunnen, a foimtain in the form of an obelisk, 
adorned with several figures on stone of some of 
the more prominent characters of antiquity. 

There is a collection of pictures in the Gothic 
edifice, formerly the chapel of St. Maurice, 
though but few are particularly worth remark- 
ing, except two or three of Albert Durer. The 
hospital, which likewise comprises a hospice for 
the reception of the aged and infirm, is a dilapi- 
dated low building on the river. The treatment 
of disease appear(Hl to me to lie mucli inferior to 
that of Municli. 

The costume of some of the inhabitants anUr 
peasantry corresjionds with the antitpie aj>pear- 



232 ERLANGEN. 

ance of Nuremberg. The women generally wear 
a cloth dress reaching half way down the leg, 
with a coloured kerchief (most frequently red) 
wrapped round the head, somewhat after the 
fashion of a turban. The men (as in other parts 
of Bavaria) wear three-cornered hats, long coats, 
reaching nearly to the heels, and red or other 
coloured waistcoats, with large metal buttons 
overlapping each other. 

The first railroad constructed in Germany was 
that between Nuremberg and Furth, a commercial 
town about six miles distant, and principally 
inhabited by Jews. A few miles in the opposite 
direction lies Erlangen, a neat town of ten 
thousand inhabitants, and the seat of a Uni- 
versity, which, from the reputation of some of its 
professors, has latterly ranked high among the 
German universities. The number of students 
does not, however, much exceed three hundred, 
those in the theological faculty being the most 
numerous. They are not given to rioting and 
duelling, as at some other places. Behind the 
building of the University is a large garden, 
which contains a good anatomical and pathologi- 
cal museum. There is likewise a small clinical 
hospital, containing one hundred beds. 

From Erlangen, the small and beautiful tract 
of country termed Franconian Switzerland may 
be conveniently visited in three days. It lies to 
the left of the high road to Baireuth, and is 
interesting, not only on account of the pic- 



FRANCONIAN SWITZERLAND. 233 

tiircsqucness of its scenery, but likewise from its 
luaguificciit caverns. After a five hours' drive 
the visitor arrives at Streitberg (where stands 
the castle, now a ruin, but which formerly com- 
manded the entrance of the valley), and shortly 
afterwards at Muggendorf, which is the chief 
place in the district, and the best point for 
making excursions. After ascending a steep hill 
and an hour's good walking, the peculiar shaped 
rock termed Adlerstein is attained, whence is 
displayed a beautiful and extensive panorama of 

" Variegated maze of mount and glen," 

with here and there an old castle crowning an 
eminence. A little further on, the Riesenberg is 
seen ; this is a natural excavation between arched 
rocks, which, viewed from the valley below, 
presents the appearance of a gigantic castle — 
wlicnce the name. Following the course of the 
Wiesent along the valley, you pass beneath 
Rabenek Castle, perched on the summit of a 
rock, the perpendicular sides of which might 
well bid defiance to hostile approaches, and, 
crossing the hill, arrive next at the Castle of 
Ilabcnstein, likewise standing on a projecting 
rock, and surrounded by immense masses of 
granite, wliich must have been at some period 
detaclied from the mountains by a terrestrial 
convulsion. From the castlo, a path, winding 
betAvecn thcsi> masses, leads to the chief wonder 
of the country — tlio*Cave of llabenstein. This 



234 FRANCONIAN SWITZERLAND. 

cavern is divided into four compartments, the 
first being merely an extensive space on the 
same level as the ground at the entrance. The 
other divisions, in order to be seen to advantage, 
require to be lighted up with numerous candles, 
by which the whole extent can be perceived, and 
a singularly wild and unique scene is disclosed. 
Descending by a winding stair cut in the rock, 
you have an opportunity of admiring the 
immense and beautiful stalactites descending 
from the roof and rising from the floors. Several 
fossil remains were here discovered, most of 
which were taken away, though some still 
remain, such as a pair of enormous antlers, and 
part of the pelvis of the mammoth, which are 
so deeply imbedded in the incrustation that they 
could not well be removed, even if the proprietor 
were desirous that they should be. The third 
division, though less extensive than the others, 
contains more beautiful stalactites, which hang 
from the roof in the form of palm leaves. 
The fourth part is the largest, and is mostly 
filled up with enormous masses of rocks, which 
form a peculiarly striking and chaotic scene. 
Altogether this cavern may be considered 
as one of the natural wonders of Europe, and 
a visit to it would well repay the traveller 
for making a detour of some miles. It is, 
however, not to i)e compared with Adelsberg, 
There is another of these caverns, termed the 
Forster's Ilohle, near Waischenfeld, nearly two 



BAIREUTH FRANZENSBAl). 235 

hours' walk from Rabenstein, but it is not so 
interesting. 

Baircuth is a small town in an agreeable 
country, possessing nothing particularly worthy 
of remark. A pleasant walk leads to the 
Ermitage, two miles distant. From this, ten 
hours are required to reach Eger ; previous to 
entering there is an Austrian custom-house. 
Eger likewise presents no object of particular 
interest, except the old Castle of Wallcnstein, 
in the interior of which are still preserved some 
relics of this hero. 

Franzensbad is about half-an-hour's drive from 
Eger, and four from Marienbad and Carlsbad. 
Though the environs are not distinguished for 
scenic beauty, or objects of much interest, this 
bath has, during the season, an animated and 
cheerful aspect. On entering, the small temple 
beneath which rises the chief spring, the Franz- 
quelle, stands on the road-side. A promenade 
ground, with booths, colonnade, and the public 
saloon, lie on the left of the Kaiserstrasse — a 
range of handsome houses and hotels. There is a 
large bath-house, as also buildings for the adminis- 
tration of mud and gas-baths. Franzensbad pos- 
sesses a variety of mineral springs, of whose pro- 
perties I have elsewhere given a detailed account. 

The position of Marienbad is highly \nc- 
turesque. On entering from the Eger side, the 
valley expands into a more ()[)en space, bounded 
by pine-covered hills, and laid out as a garden. 



236 MARIENBAD. 

On the left are about a dozen large and hand- 
some lodgmg-houses, the mansion of Prince 
Metternich being in the centre. At right angles 
with this range of buildings is another row 
of larger houses ; the Tepl-Haus being at one 
extremity, and Klinger's large hotel and 
boarding-house at the other. During the 
season about a hundred people sit down daily 
to the table dlwte. Adjoining is a colonnade and 
promenade room, leading to the Kreutzbrunnen, 
the principal spring, which rises beneath a 
cupola, surmounted by a large gilt cross, and 
which has a more than European reputation. 
From the Kreutzbrunnen, houses are continued 
up the hill, and terminate at the old bath-house, 
forming altogether almost a square, enclosing 
the public promenade, where, in the season, are 
booths for the sale of fancy articles. The 
surrounding hills are equally disposed in walks ; 
that leading to the Miniature Switzerland com- 
mands the best view. 

This neighbourhood abounds in mineral 
springs. Those of Marienbad may be divided 
into three classes, viz., the Kreutzbunnen and 
Ferdinandbrunnen, which are saline aperient; the 
Caroline and Ambrosius, which are chalybeate ; 
and the Marienbrunnen and Waldquelle, which 
are acidulous. The mud and gas-baths are very 
efficient at Marienbad. Dr. Herzig, one of the 
resident practitioners, is mostly consulted by 
English visitors. 



CARLSBAD. 237 

Carlsbad is likewise situate in a romantically- 
picturesque position, on the banks of the little 
river Tepel, and occupying a narrow winding 
valley, enclosed between lofty hills, clothed to 
their summits with pine, beach, and ash, whereon 
numerous paths, easy of ascent, have been con- 
structed, leading to points which command 
extensive views of the surrounding country. In 
the neighbourhood are several houses of enter- 
tainment, situate in beautiful spots, to which 
visitors resort to take tea or other refreshments. 
The beauty of the environs presents also strong 
inducements for more distant excursions. The 
chief point of reunion is the Wiese, where the 
valley is somewhat wider, so as to admit of trees 
and booths between the houses and the river. 
At the end of this promenade are the public 
rooms and restaurateurs, the Salles de Saaie, and 
de Boheme, dinners being served a la carte, and 
where concerts are occasionally given. 

Carlsbad offers but few resources for the 
amusement of the idler, being chiefly resorted 
to by invalids. There is not that indiscriminate 
mixture of society Avhich is met with at other 
baths, where the goddess of pleasure lias 
numerous votaries. There are no balls, and 
games of hazard, which at some other places 
attract a crowd of adventurers, are not allowed, 
neither are tliere tables d'hote ; and the dishes 
served up at dinner are generally plain, many 
articles whicli woidd be lik(^ly to interfere with 



238 CARLSBAD. 

the action of the waters being prohibited by the 
medical censors, whose authority, if not openly 
exercised, is at least tacitly admitted by hotel- 
keepers and traiteurs, so that invalids have 
seldom the opportunity of committing those 
errors in diet which so frequently render 
nugatory a course of mineral waters. 

On the right bank of the river rises the 
Sprudel, exhibiting to the beholder the pheno- 
menon of a perpetual jet d'eaii as thick as a 
man's arm, and varying from three to five feet 
in height. The immediate neighbourhood of 
the spring is constantly enveloped in vapour, 
and an odour is perceptible resembling that of 
boiled meat. On the edge of the basin into 
which the water flows is observable a thick green 
slimy substance, which has been ascertained to 
consist of innumerable animalculse, of a similar 
nature with the oscillatoria found in several 
other thermal springs, the presence of which has 
been adduced by some authors in corroboration 
of the opinion of the vitality of mineral springs. 

Close to the Sprudel rises the Hygea, which 
supplies the adjoining baths. On the opposite 
side, and lower down the river, are the three 
other springs principally used, viz., Muhlbrunnen, 
Neubrunnen, and Theresienbrunnen. Besides 
these there are several others, as the Schloss- 
brunnen, Bernardsbrunnen, &c., which are com- 
paratively little used. A new spring arose last 
year in the market-place ; it does not, however, 



PRAGUE. 239 

materially differ from the others in its properties. 
Close to the above-mentioned three springs, 
and above the river, is a covered gallery, where 
the greater nnmber of vv^ater drinkers meet, 
between five and seven in the morning; an 
excellent musical band being always in attend- 
ance at these hours. Another is also stationed 
at the Sprudel. 

There are no mineral springs which have stood 
higher in general estimation than those of Carls- 
bad, and none which, since their first discovery, 
have better sustained their reputation through 
successive generations, nor are there any on 
which so much has been written. The first 
work of importance respecting them, which 
appeared as far back as 1522, was written by 
Dr. Payer, and was termed Tractatus di Termis 
Caroli IV. 

About eight hours' diive through an agreeable 
country will bring the traveller to the handsome 
city of Prague, which, being built upon seven 
hills, and also from containing a profusion of 
churches and other religious establishments, has 
been likened to E,ome. As the Tiber flows 
through Home, and is crossed by a bridge 
ornamented with statues, so the Moldau, having 
a similar bridge, divides Prague into two parts. 
On the river's left l)ank are numerous gardtnis 
and vineyards, continued up the hills, which arc 
crowned with fortifications, and tlic ritad(>], with 
the Jlaradschin Palace, ;ire i)urticularly con- 



240 PRAGUE. 

spiciious. This was for some -years the residence 
of Charles X. The object of greatest interest is 
the cathedral, dedicated to St. Veit (who has 
given the name to a common disease — chorea, or 
St. Vitus's Dance — from the circumstance of 
persons affected with the complaint being 
accustomed to resort for cure to a chajDcl 
dedicated to the Saint, near Ulm). The edifice 
is one of the finest remnants of gothic architec- 
ture, and contains many precious reliques and 
curiosities, especially the magnificent monument 
erected to St. John of Nepomak, the patron 
Saint of Bohemia, whose anniversary, in May, 
lasts eight days, at which period crowds of 
devotees flock to the shrine, and encumber the 
bridge on which his statue is placed (being the 
spot whence he was cast into the Moldau). The 
number of colossal statues on this bridge is 
twenty-eight, and it may afford an indication of 
the state of religious feeling in Bohemia to 
mention that, a few years ago, passengers took 
off their hats or bent the knee to the statue of 
the patron saint, while the adjoining one of 
Jesus was entirely disregarded. Prague was 
the head-quarters of Wallenstein, whose palace 
is one of the finest in the city, in which tliis 
general held an almost regal court. 

" Owing to the number of palaces, churches, 
public buildings, and other splendid remains of 
its ancient grandeur," says the " English Resident 
in Germany," " Prague is more imposing than 



PRAGUE. 241 

Vienna, and far preferable as a residence, tlie 
situation being much more salubrious, and tlic 
climate more mild and equable, the cold in 
winter rarely exceeding twenty-four 'degrees R., 
and generally averaging between seven and ten ; 
while during the greatest heat of summer the 
tlicrmometer seldom rises above twenty-three. 
Dr. Stultz, a celebrated German physician, who 
has written upon the relative salubrity of German 
towns, considers Prague one of the most healthy 
in the empire, and asserts that it is no uncommon 
occurrence for the inhabitants to attain the age 
of a hundred or even sometimes a hundred and 
fifteen years. The provisions are good and cheap, 
and an excellent red wine, resembling Burgundy, 
is produced in the neighbourhood. The theatre 
equals that of Vienna : public and private con- 
certs are also very frequent, and, except Vienna, 
there is no town in Germany where music is 
cultivated with so much success. Indeed this 
taste may in the Bohemians be termed truly 
national, for they excel both in vocal and instru- 
mental, and not a few of the natives travel to 
Italy, acquire the language, Italianize their 
names, and make large fortunes at Vienna. 
Their language, which is rich and expressive, is 
also musical, and sounds as pleasing as tlie 
Italian when wedded to melody."* 

Prague being now connected by railroad with 
Vienna, a few hours suffices to reach the capital. 

* Skotclies of Germany and the Germans. 
11 



242 TEPLITZ. 

In the opposite direction a railroad extends as 
far as Theresienstadt, more than half way to the 
celebrated bath Teplitz. This small town lies in 
an open and agreeable valley, bounded on the 
east by the chain of the Erzgebirge hills. At 
each extremity of the principal street is an open 
Place ; in one of these stands the Town-house ; 
in the other, the Schloss, or chateau of the 
Prince de Clary, to whom the territory belongs. 
The grounds behind the chateau are extensive, 
laid out a VAnglaise, and are open to the public. 
The principal alley, being the usual promenade 
of the Teplitz society, presents an animated 
scene during the season; a musical band is in 
attendance at stated hours ; adjoining are public 
rooms for restauration, occasional balls and con- 
certs, and the table d'hote, which, with that at 
the Poste, are the only ones in the town, it 
being the custom, as at Carlsbad, to dine en 
famille, or a la carte. Being a great place of 
resort for princes, diplomatists, and the haut ton 
of Germany, there is but little general associa- 
tion; Teplitz would not, consequently, offer 
much resource for the amusement of a stranger, 
unless he had previously acquaintances among 
the Germans. It is, therefore, not resorted to by 
the English. There is little to interest in the 
town itself, except the baths, which are magnifi- 
cent, and better arranged than in most of the 
watering-places which I have visited. The prin- 
cipal bathing-house, the Herrenhaus, where the 



TEPLITZ. 243 

late King of Prussia was in the habit of residing 
during the summer season, belongs to the Prince 
de Clary. The ground floor of the edifice is 
disposed in several elegant and spacious baths, 
formed of porcelain tiles of various colours ; part 
of each cabinet, being separated from the bath 
by a curtain, serves as a dressing-room. At the 
end of the garden, behind the house, there is a 
semicircular colonnade, with a portico, beneath 
which rise three or four springs ; the one being 
the Trinkquelle or drinking-spring ; the other, 
the Augenquelle (eye-spring). The number of 
drinkers at Teplitz is, however, comparatively 
small, bathing being the essential part of the 
treatment. The new Stadtbad, or Town-bath, is 
likewise a handsome building, containing twenty- 
two commodious bathing cabinets, and two or 
three large marble ones, around a central 
reservoir in which the water is cooled. On the 
first fioor is a spacious promenade room. These 
baths are supplied by the Hauptquclle, together 
with the adjoining piscina, or public bath for 
men, which is a lofty and spacious locals in 
which fifty persons could bathe at the same time. 
About sixteen were in the bath at the time of 
my visit; several of them were undergoing the 
operation of cuj^ping with small tin cups about 
the size of a liqueur glass. This is a common 
practice with many patients of the poorer classes, 
who also frequently remain a long time in the 
water, which in the public baths is of its natural 



244 TEPLITZ. 

temperature. Another of these baths is the 
Furstenbad (Princes bath), so called, not from 
its being exclusively appropriated to the higher 
classes, but because it also belongs to Prince 
Clary. The bathing cabinets are equally elegant 
and convenient as in the other establishments. 
Here, likewise, is a public bath for vfomen, 
v^^hich is more dark and confined than the men's. 
There is also in the town a Jews' bath. The 
price of a private bath is eighteen kreutzers 
(about sixpence) in the morning ; in the after- 
noon it is only twelve. 

The adjacent subourb, Schonau, possesses 
baths equal if not superior in elegance to the 
town baths. They are, 1st, The Steinbad, con- 
sisting of a central vestibule, where the spring 
rises into a large oval basin, and on either side 
bathing cabinets: the water also rises directly 
into some of the baths through a fine layer of 
sand, as at Wildbad, and remains constantly 
flowing during the bath, which is taken at the 
natural temperature ; 2nd, the Templebad, a cir- 
cular edifice, close to the former, with six baths 
of a triangular form ; 3rd, the Schlangenbad, a 
new edifice with handsome facade and portico ; 
the baths being constructed (as at the other 
new establishments) of tiles of various colours, 
which gives them a light and cheerful appear- 
ance. But the handsomest of the new erections 
is, 4th, the Neubad, which has superseded the 
old Schwefelbad. This edifice is three stories in 



TEPLITZ. 245 

height, has a considerable extent of facade^ and 
is divided into two equal parts, with a central 
hall or vestibule, supported by beautiful composi- 
tion columns, in imitation of marble, whence, 
wide staircases conduct to the apartments, which 
are handsomely fitted up for accommodating 
either families or single persons. A single room 
lets at from three to six dollars a-week, so that 
it will be perceived that the expense of living and 
bathing is not very great at TepHtz. The roof of 
the building forms a terrace, commanding a 
delightful view of the town and environs, with 
the whole range of the Erzgebirge, and the 
Schlossberg, with the ruin on its summit. The 
baths on the ground floor are as convenient and 
well arranged as those at the Herrenhaus. 

There are several hospitals at Teplitz, viz., 1st, 
the Town Hospital ; 2nd, the Austrian Military 
Hospital, in which three hundred soldiers may 
be accommodated at the same time ; each officer 
having a private room. On an average, eacli 
patient uses the baths for a month, so that one 
thousand two hundred may obtain relief during 
the season ; 3rd, the Prussian Military Hospital ; 
4th, a Civil Hospital for poor persons of any 
country, containing about fifty beds ; and 5th, a 
small hospital founded and supported by Prince 
Clary. 

At the time of tlie eartluiuake of Lisbon, the 
priiuipal s])riiig at 'JVplitz ceased to flow for 
about a minute, and then burst out with such 



246 TETSCHEN. 

violence as to overflow the basin, the water 
being in a state of fermentation, of a higher 
temperature than usual, and of a deep red 
colour. When it had again become clear, a 
quantity of red oxyde of iron was found deposited 
at the bottom of the basin. Neither the springs 
of Schonau nor those of Carlsbad were in the 
least aifected. 

From Teplitz to Tetschen the country is 
pretty and well cultivated. This town lies on the 
right bank of the Elbe, at the commencement of 
the district termed Saxon Switzerland, and 
during the summer steamers ply daily between 
Tetschen and Dresden, for the accommodation of 
the numerous tourists who come to explore this 
interesting region. The objects best worth 
visiting are the Prebischthor, a colossal natural 
arch, amidst wild scenery; the Kuhstall, an 
immense cavern capable of lodging several thou- 
sand persons, and so called from having been 
employed by the peasantry for concealing their 
cattle during the thirty years' war ; the fortress 
of Konigstein, and the Bastei, which consists of 
immense masses of rock, split and broken into a 
variety of forms and shapes, some being con- 
nected by bridges eight hundred feet above the 
river. The view of this chaos will leave a 
lasting impression on the memory. 

The Elbe, from Tetschen to Pirna, is hemmed 
in between dark rocky banks and wooded hills, 
descending precij^itously to the water, not unlike 



PIRNA. 2-1:7 

some parts of the Rhine between Bingen and 
Coblentz, 

" Like Adersbach," says the author whom I 
have already quoted, "the whole of the rocky 
masses that line the banks of the Elbe and 
the valleys are composed of sandstone, broken 
into the most grotesque forms. But nowhere 
is the imagination so bewildered by the near 
approach to reality as in the Ottawalder Grund, 
a glen so nan'ow, and formed by rocks so 
lofty, that in many places the sun has never 
shone in its gloomy depths. Here the traveller 
wanders over snow and ice even in June; and 
the tiny cascades hang in icicles as they fall. 
In some places the walls are not more than four 
feet asunder, and as perfectly perpendicular and 
smooth as if the chisel had passed over them. 
In another they meet above, and form a natural 
roof: here rising into a pp-amid, and there 
suddenly expanding, till it seemed as if one 
inverted cone were placed upon the apex of 
another. He might also believe he was travers- 
ing the rude model of some colossal city, or the 
ruined abode of the Gnomes." 

On a hill overlooking the river and the town 
of Pirna is a large edifice, Sonnenstern, formerly 
a chateau, now a celebrated establishment for 
insane patients, of which I liave given a detailed 
description in my work on the M(Mlical Institu- 
tions of the Continent. 

Beyond Pirna the banks arc ilatter, the scenery, 



248 DRESDEN. 

though contrasting with that previously passed, 
is yet pleasing, for — 

" Even in a plain no humble beauties lie, 
"Where some broad river breaks the long expanse, 
And woods along the banks are waving high, 
Whose shadows in the glassy waters dance, 
Or with the moonbeam sleep in midnight's solemn trance." 

On approaching the capital the banks are more 
cultivated. The Royal Palace of Pilnitz stands 
on the right, and from this point numerous 
villas and country-houses impart animation to 
the scenery. 

Dresden is divided by the Elbe into two 
unequal parts ; that on the right, or new town, 
being much smaller. The view from the hand- 
some stone bridge of the Japanese Palace, on 
the one side, the Bruhl Terrace (the most 
frequented promenade), the Catholic Church, 
with numerous statues of saints adorning its 
roof; on the other, of the gardens and villas 
along the banks, is striking, and will leave an 
agreeable impression upon the beholder. 

The Japanese Palace contains collections of 
porcelain and other curiosities. Its garden, 
descending to the river, is planted with a variety 
of foreign shrubs and flowers. 

The Catholic Church is plain internally ; 
almost all the inhabitants of Saxony are Pro- 
testants ; the King, however, is a Catholic. The 
music is particularly fine in this church, and 
doubtless a great cause of attraction to many of 



DRESDEN, 249 

the congregation, of which the male and female 
part are obliged to keep separate sides. The 
music is likewise very good in the chief Pro- 
testant Church, which is of large size, the 
galleries being disposed like the boxes of a 
theatre. The Picture Gallery is in the same 
square as the last-named edifice ; it is the largest, 
and is generally considered to be the richest, in 
Germany. The Madonna di San Sisto, of 
Raphael ; the Tribute Money, by Titian ; as also 
a Portrait of his Daughter ; the Madonna and 
Infant in the jNIanger, by Correggio ; Rembrandt's 
Portrait, and Vandyck's Charles the First, are a 
few of the most esteemed pictures. 

The Zwinger Palace is of a peculiar architec- 
ture, somewhat of the oriental or moresque style. 
The different portions, seen from the centre of 
the courtyard, have a striking appearance, to 
which the colossal grotesque figures in relief 
greatly contribute. It contains the museum of 
copper engravings, and the largest collection of 
ancient arms and armour upon the continent. 

The costly and curious collection of jewels 
and curiosities, formed of gold, silver, and 
l)recious stones, in the green vaults, is one of 
the principal sights of Dresden, and perhaps in 
no one spot is there to be seen so great a variety 
of treasures and curious nicknacks. Mr. Russell 
says, respecting them, in his work on Germany, 
"Whoever takes pleasure in tlie glitter of 
precious stones — in ^old and silver wrouglit 



250 DRESDEN. 

into all sorts of royal ornaments — into every 
form, however grotesque, that art can give them, 
without either utility or beauty, will stroll with 
satisfaction through the apartments of this 
gorgeous toy-shop. They are crowded with 
crowns and jewels; vases and other utensils 
seem to have been made merely as a means of 
expending gold and silver; the shelves glitter 
with caricatured urchins, whose bodies are often 
formed of huge pearls, or of egg-shells, to which 
are attached limbs of enamelled gold. One is 
dazzled by the quantity of gems and precious 
metals that glare around him," &c. 

The hospitals of Dresden are but indifferent, 
and the medical and surgical practice is inferior 
to that of Berlin. There is, however, an 
establishment for medical instruction, termed 
the Medico-Chirurgical Academy, which contains 
a good pathological museum, in the chief apart- 
ment, on the first floor of the building, which 
was formerly one of the largest palaces in the 
town. The presence of the anatomical and 
pathological preparations does not harmonize 
well with the appearance of this handsome 
saloon, which doubtless was in other days the 
scene of frequent mirth and revelling, the walls 
of which still retain the full-length portraits 
of the former proprietors. Some of the most 
eminent medical practitioners in Germany reside 
in Dresden. Dr. Von Amnion, whose name is 
well known throughout Europe, not only as one 



DRESDEN. 251 

of the first surgeons and oculists, but also as 
having directed much of his attention to mecUcal 
subjects, especially mineral waters, is the prac- 
titioner most in repute. Dr. Hedenus is likewise 
in high estimation. 

The streets of Dresden are, for the most part, 
narrow, and the houses lofty and solidly con- 
structed. There are no good squares ; some of 
the new streets are, however, wide and regularly 
built ; nevertheless, the ensemble of the inner 
part of the town has a somewhat sombre ap- 
pearance. The environs are beautiful, and, in 
summer, Dresden would be an agreeable place 
of residence. The winter, however, is generally 
very cold and windy, and a good deal of rain 
falls. The price of food is very high, though 
house rent is lower than at Munich. The 
inhabitants are, for the most part, courteous, and 
receive strangers well; a large proportion of 
them speak English ; they live more en famille, 
are more given to money-getting, and, conse- 
quently, less to pleasure than those of Southern 
Germany ; there is, therefore, less society and 
movement. The theatre, however, is well moiite, 
and is generally well attended. Literature and 
science are more cultivated than in the soutli, 
but less so than at Berlin and the norther towns. 

As a cheap place for tlie permanent residence 
of families, and also as regards education, 
Dresdfu offers advantages over many other 
places In tlie environs are niinierou.s lioiitscs 



252 DRESDEN. 

of entertainment, whither holiday folks repair 
to take tea, hear music, t&c. The most frequented 
of these is Lord Findlater's Coffee-house, over- 
looking the river. Here, as at all other of the 
English colonies abroad. Church service is per- 
formed tv/ice on Sundays. At one end of the 
town is the artificial mineral water establishment 
founded by Dr. Struve, which is open from May 
to November. In the large garden patients 
walk about while drinking the waters. The 
establishment at Brighton is formed upon this 
model. 



CHAPTER XIIL 

LEIPSIC-HOMCEOPATHY—BEULIN— HAMBURG -WEIMAR — KTSSINGEN- 
FEANKFORT-THE BERGSTRASSE-BADEN-BADEN-STUTTGARD. 

The journey from Dresden to Leipsic is per- 
formed in three hours by the railroad. This is a 
large and bustling town, which would offer but 
little resource to the idler, or inducement for the 
majority of English travellers to prolong their 
sojourn. It is the great European market of 
booksellers and publishers, in which business a 
large proportion of its population are engaged ; 
and the Leipsic editions of most of the works 
published in Germany, as well as many of those 
of other countries, are greatly in request, on 
account of their comparative cheapness. The 
catalogue of books, printed every six months, 
forms of itself a respectable-sized volume. 
Leipsic is likewise the seat of one of the largest 
German universities: a handsome new building- 
has recently been completed. Tlic number of 
students amounts to one thousand. Some of the 
professors of tlic medical sciences enjoy a high 
reputation. There are two large hospitc\ls, the; 
St. Francis, containing two hunched beds, for 
acute and chronic diseases, and tlie St. George's 



254 LEiPsic. 

which comprises a hospital, prison, and school 
for indigent orphans, with some wards for the 
insane. The view from the tower of the observa- 
tory comprises a considerable extent of the sur- 
rounding local country, including the battle-field. 
The belt of public gardens around the town, on 
the site of the ramparts, forms an agreeable and 
shady promenade. 

At the time of my first visit, I was anxious to 
see the Homoeopathic Hospital, of which I had 
previously heard, Leipsic being the head-quarters 
of this doctrine. I expected to have found at 
least forty or fifty beds filled with patients ; but 
was rather surprised to find that the building 
(which is a small house in the suburbs) only 
contained eight, and even of these all but two 
or three were unoccupied. At my last visit to 
Leipsic, I understood that matters were going on 
badly with homoeopathy, which indeed is now 
comparatively little heard of in Germany and 
France, except at Vienna, and only requires to 
be understood by the public for its absurdity 
to be apparent, though there will always be 
credulous individuals who are to be caught by 
any novelty, when presented under a specious 
appearance, and backed by an unmtelligible 
name. During its whole progress, it never was 
sanctioned by any individual of eminence in the 
profession, and was principally taken up as a 
means of acquiring wealth, or a livelihood, by 
persons who had never been previously heard of, 



LEiPsic. 255 

or who were knoAvn as having failed to acquire 
practice by the honourable exercise of their 
profession, by whom every means were taken 
to puff it into notice, and to keep public attention 
directed to it; such as repeated histories of 
cures, the establishment of dispensaries, of 
which, I believe, the only one that remains is 
the above-mentioned at Leipsic, even if that be 
still in existence, for a few months before my 
arrival, the house-physician having become con- 
vinced, during a residence of some time in the 
dispensary, of the nullity and danger of homoeo- 
pathy, gave up his appointment, and published 
an exposition of the system pursued, with an 
account of cases, which clearly shows (what had 
long been evident to the bulk of the profession 
and the public) that the so-called cures were 
recoveries from ordinary ailments by the efforts 
of nature, which were frequently a long time 
under treatment, whereas, by a proper medication 
and attention at the outset, they might probably 
have been removed in a few days, and that many 
of the more serious cases got worse instead of 
better, for the want of active treatment.* It 
must not be supposed that the homocopathists 
always adhere to the principles of the doctrine. 
It has not unfrequently happened that persons 
who attributed their recovery to homoeopathy 
were treated allopathetically without theu- being 

* Ucbcr die Nichtikcit dcr Ilomccopathic. On tlic Notliingncss of 
Ilomceopathy. — Leipsic, 1 840. 



266 BERLIN. 

aware of it. In fact, one practitioner in Leipsic, 
a professed homoeopathist, candidly acknowledged 
that he pursued both plans of treatment, and 
was accustomed to ask his patients by which 
method they would be treated, as both were 
equally good. * 

Little had been previously heard of liomceo- 
pathy among English practitioners till I pub- 
lished an account of it and of animal magnetism, 
as an appendix to my work on the Medical 
Institutions of the Continent. -j- 

About six hours is required for the journey 
from Leipsic to Berlin, which is of comparatively 
modern origin, and the most regularly-built city 
in Europe. The streets, intersecting each other 
at right angles, afford evidence of the military 
character of its founder. A wide street, with 
promenade beneath lime and other trees, in the 
centre (Unter den Linden), extends for nearly a 
mile from one of the city's finest monuments, the 
Brandenburg Gate, to the university, arsenal, 
museum, and royal palace, which are contiguous 
to each other. The palace, except from its size, 

* The fate of the Duke di Cannizzaro, well known some years ago in 
London as the Count St. Antonio, is an exemplification of tliis. Having to 
take homoeopathic globules at intervals for some slight ailment, in order 
to save trouble he took three doses at once, and died two hours after- 
wards ; the supposed globules being a concentrated preparation of uux 
vomica. 

t I beg to refer those interested in these subjects to the third editions of 
my works, " Hydropathy and Homoeopathy impartially Appreciated, with 
Notes illustrative of the Influence of the Mind on the Body," and "Animal 
Magnetism, with Report on Clairvoyance." — Churchill, Princes- street. 



BERLIN. 257 

is not remarkable in point of architectnre ; the 
interior is not inferior in magnificence to the 
other royal palaces in Germany. The Museum 
is, however, a noble edifice, with a fine lofty 
portico extending the whole length of the facade, 
the ascent being by a magnificent flight of steps. 
The sculpture and statues occupy the lower hall 
and rotunda. The collection of pictures is 
larger than either at Dresden or Munich, but 
does not contain so many choice works. They 
are arranged in separate apartments, according 
to the various schools. The arsenal is likewise 
a fine huilding, containing a magnificent collec- 
tion of arms of various kinds, and the figure of 
Frederick the Great, in the clothes which he 
wore, with many other objects of interest. The 
university is perhaps the best in Germany, from 
the high repute of its professors and the facilities 
afforded for the acquisition of science. The 
medical school stands deservedly high, and the 
anatomical and pathological collections are not 
equalled by those of any other city, with the 
exception of London. Among the other objects 
of interest may be enumerated the Egyptian 
Museum, in the outskirts of the town, and the 
manufactory of iron ornaments, which were 
formerly a great deal worn. During the war 
with Napoleon, when the government was in 
great financial straits, the ladies contributed 
their jewels and trinkets, receiving in return 
articles of the iron manufactory, impressed with 



258 BERLIN. 

the inscription " Ich gab gold fur Eisen.'' The 
bronze statue of Blucher stands in a central 
and conspicuous position. 

The principal street and square are the Wil- 
helm's Strasse and Platz; the houses are low, 
and the wide and badly-paved streets look, for 
the most part, deserted, on a comparison with 
those of Vienna. The equipages are also com- 
paratively few in number. The population is, 
however, much smaller than in the southern 
capital (not much exceeding 200,000), while the 
city occupies a great extent of ground. 

The Spree is a sluggish stream, which by no 
means conduces to the salubrity of the town, 
which is not raised above its level. This circum- 
stance, combined with the flat and arid environs, 
the roads being deep in sand, renders Berlin 
oppressively hot in summer; and in winter it 
would offer but few resources, as the Berliners 
are not much " given to hospitality : " there is, 
consequently, but little cordial society, and the 
royal and other parties are but monotonous 
affairs. The character of the Prussians is, 
however, of a more sterling nature than that of 
the southern Germans, and the different branches 
of literature and science are more arduously 
cultivated in the north. The chief source of 
amusement is the opera, the house being one 
of the finest buildings of the city, and the artistes 
first-rate. The pastry-cooks' and liqueur shops, 
at the corners of the principal streets, are 



BERLIN. 259 

favourite resorts of the inhabitants. There are 
also many under-ground ceUars, where those of 
the inferior class are in the habit of congregating. 

Berlin, being more of a military capital, there 
is but little commerce or manufactui-es as sources 
of revenue. The late revolution was very san- 
guinary; the number of killed never having 
been made known. As every man is bred up 
to the use of arms, it is no ordinary mob Avith 
which the military have to deal on the occasion 
of an outbreak ; they were consequently obliged 
to retire, and the king and queen were forced 
to come down into the court-yard of the palace, 
uncovered, to behold the bodies of some of those 
who fell. 

The Thiergarten, or park of Berlin, outside 
the Brandenberg gate (being the only space in 
the neighboui'hood planted with trees), has a 
sombre aspect, as compared with the promenades 
of Vienna. There are, however, concerts, and 
other means of recreation, provided in the 
summer. Most travellers will be satisfied with 
a few days sojourn at Berlin. The monument 
to the late queen, at Charlottenberg, and the 
retreat of Frederick (Sans Souci), at Potsdam, 
are the chief objects of interest in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

The railroad to Stettin and the Baltic has 
been open for some time ; that conducting to 
Hamburg is of more recent construction, and 
is of immense advantage, not onlv from Berlin 



260 HAMBURG. 

being thereby brought into more direct com- 
munication with other countries beyond the 
sea, but also because it relieves travellers of the 
monotonous and dreary passage along the sandy 
roads. 

Hamburg, though a fine city, and one of the 
largest commercial ports, presents no induce- 
ment to most visitors to linger within its pre- 
cincts. Except the Exchange and St. Michael's 
Church, there is but little worth seeing, as 
regards public buildings. A fine view may, 
however, be enjoyed from the church spire, of 
the city, with its pleasing environs, and of the 
course of the Elbe for many miles ; and, in an 
opposite direction, of the plains of Holstein, 
and the free town of Lubeck, which is the chief 
point of embarkation for St. Petersburg or 
Copenhagen. The most frequented promenade 
of Hamburg is on the banks of the Alster, 
which here forms a basin of considerable extent, 
enlivened in summer by numerous boating 
parties. The trajet from Hamburg to London 
occupies from forty-eight to fifty-six hours. 

The traveller proceeding from Berlin towards 
the Rhine has the choice of availing himself 
of the almost uninterrupted railroad communica- 
tion to Cologne, by Magdeburg, Brunswick, and 
Hanover ; or, if his route lay southward, he 
may travel by rail as far as Gotha, through 
Halle and Weimar. The first of these towns 
contains little of interest except its university. 



WEIMAR JENA. 2G 1 

AVeimar is a handsome cheerful-looking toAvn, 
which has long been the resort of distinguished 
literary characters ; both Goethe and Schiller 
resided here many years ; the house of the latter 
poet is shown, the rooms being left in the same 
state as during his life. The remains of these 
two illustrious men lie side by side in the ducal 
vault of the chapel attached to the new cemetery 
outside the town : the coffins may be seen 
through an iron grating. Here, as at some 
other joarts of Germany, bodies are exposed to 
view for a certain time, a string being attached 
to the fingers, which, on the slightest movement, 
sounds an alarum in the porter's lodge, as a 
precaution against premature interment. On 
inquiry, however, I learned that there had been 
no instance of resuscitation. The opera is well 
conducted at Weimar. The grounds of tlie 
chateau arc extensive, well shaded, and park-like. 
The printing establishment of books and maps 
of Dr. Froriep will repay the trouble of a visit. 

Jena, some miles distant from Weimar, is a 
neat little town in a romantic position, being 
principally celebrated on account of the great 
battle which took place in its vicinity, and as 
the seat of an uni^ ersity. The students were 
formerly very turbulent, but, since 1830, there 
has been scarcely any disturbance; duels are 
also less frequent than formerly. Tlie Biirs- 
chcnschaften appear, in fact, to be practically 
abolished in almost all the German uni\ersitics. 



262 URFURT. 

The number of students at Jena does not much 
exceed 500. After lecture hours they may often 
be seen strolling about the town or country, 
each with his long pi^De, and generally two or 
three together, one arm being lovingly entwined 
round the neck or waist of their comrade. 
The building appropriated to the university 
was formerly the castle. It contains a public 
examination hall and a library, with mineralo- 
gical, anatomical, pathological, and zoological 
museums. 

Between Weimar and Gotha lies Urfurt, where 
the traveller may visit, en passant^ Luther's cell, 
and one or two other objects of interest which 
this town contains. At Gotha, the chateau, 
standing on an elevated position and surrounded 
by gardens, is the chief attraction, from its 
containing a rich museum and a variety of 
curiosities, including the three-cornered hat, 
boots, and gloves worn by Napoleon at the 
battle of Leipsic. Near Eisenach stands, on 
a lofty hill, the Castle of Wartburg, where 
Luther was long concealed under an assumed 
name. In the Rittersaal are several fine suits 
of armour, and the view from the windows is 
extensive and beautiful. 

From Eisenach to Frankfort there is nothing 
to attract particular attention : by diverging, 
however, from the high road at Fulda, the 
Bavarian baths, Briickenau, Bocklet, and Kissin- 
gen, may be visited with interest. The first 



KISSINGEN. 203 

of these lies in a verdant and extremely pic- 
turesque valley, through which flows the little 
river Sinn, and consists of the residence of 
King Louis, who generally passed here some 
weeks in the summer in an elegant kursaal, 
built in the same style as the public edifices at 
Munich, the interior being richly decorated with 
fresco paintings, a large bath-house, and a few 
lodging-houses. There are three springs: the 
principal one is highly gaseous and chalybeate, 
and is, in summer, a pleasant beverage. 

A drive of about four hours through beautiful 
and varied scenery will bring the visitor to 
Bocklet, which lies a little way from the road 
to Kissingen, from which it is distant a German 
mile. At one end of the poplar avenues form- 
ing the promenade are two buildings, the bath- 
house and pump-room, the upper part of each 
being disposed in apartments for the accommo- 
dation of visitors. Between these two buildings 
is a portico, with terrace, whence a descent by 
a flight of steps leads to the springs. The best 
accommodation is, however, in the buildings at 
the other end of the avenue, the Neubau and 
Fiirstenbau. The springs are saline-chalybeate. 

The repute of Kissingen has greatly increased 
of late years, tlie number of visitors having 
been much augmented. Its position is elevated 
and cheerful, in an open part of the valley of the 
Saal, surrounded by meadows and corn-flelds, 
and sheltercxl from cold Avinds by liigh liills. 



264 KISSINGEN. 

The heat in summer is not so oppressive, but 
rain more frequently falls than at many other 
baths. The town is clean, and contains near 
2,000 inhabitants, the two principal streets 
being wide, and the houses well built. A large 
proportion of the visitors lodge in the Kurhaus, 
opposite the promenade, containing several bath 
cabinets. During the season upwards of two 
hundred people sit down daily to the table dlwte. 
The dinners here and in the hotels are extremely 
plain ; those sent to private houses are often very 
indifferent; so that the hon vivant would have 
little inducement to remain at Kissingen unless 
to recruit his health. In fact, as there are but 
few pleasure visitors, the tahles d'hote are under 
the surveillance of the authorities, and nothing 
is allowed to be served up that is likely to 
disagree with the action of the waters. 

The Baierischer, Sachsischer, and Wittelsbacker 
Hofs are somewhat primitive in their accommo- 
dation. The resident physicians have large 
houses, and lodge visitors. Dr. Travis usually 
passes the season here, wintering at Nice. 

On the promenade, opposite the Kurhaus, rise 
the three principal springs, the Eagozzi, Pandur, 
and Maxbrunnen ; the two former being tonic 
and aperient, the latter an acidulous water, hke 
that of Selters. The Ragozzi is largely exported. 
Besides these there are also saline springs, about 
a mile distant from the town, from which a large 
quantity of salt is obtained; the water being 



FRANKFORT. 265 

raised higli in the air by machinery, and evapo- 
rated by passing through thorn bushes. One of 
tliese springs presents tlie curious phenomenon 
of ebbing and lioAving at stated intervals. After 
the water has , occupied the same level for some 
hours, a deep rumbling noise is heard, and it 
descends in the well twelve or sixteen feet, 
whence it gradually remounts to its former level. 
Of late years the water has risen and fallen six 
or eight times in the space of twenty-four hours, 
an hour being required for its ascent and 
another for its descent. 

The approach to Frankfort is indicated by 
numerous handsome country-houses and gardens. 
The city itself, however, does not contain many 
objects calculated to interest the passing tra- 
veller. The most usual promenade is on the 
site of the ancient fortification, now agreeably 
laid out as a garden, with parterres of flowers 
and shrubs ; a musical band being often in 
attendance in the summer. One of the houses 
belonging to Mr. Bethmann, the banker, contains 
the Ariadne, Dannecker's chef d'wuvre, placed 
in a room with pink curtains, which impart to 
the statue a flesh-coloured hue. 

Frankfort possesses an extensive and well- 
arranged museum of natural history, and a good 
theatre ; some of the streets are wide and hand- 
some, and the houses and hotels i)alare-like, 
es])ecinlly along the spacious quays and on llie 
Zeil, which Avould bear a (•onq)aiison with the 



266 FRANKFORT. 

finest streets of Europe. A stone bridge crosses 
the Maine, which is too narrow to admit of its 
being navigated ; a small steamer, however, plies 
in the summer to Mayence. The new burial- 
ground, outside the town, though much inferior 
to that at Bologna, is upon the same plan; 
precaution against premature interment, already 
adverted to, is likewise taken here. 

The population amounts to more than 50,000 
persons, of which nearly one-fifth are said to be 
Jews, who, however, are no longer restricted, 
as formerly, to living in a particular quarter of 
the town. 

Frankfort possesses some advantages for a 
permanent residence. Being the seat of the 
Germanic Diet, there are representatives from 
all the great powers ; and there is, in the 
winter, a good deal of society among the mem- 
bers of the corps diplomatique, bankers, and 
merchants, which, however, is said to be greatly 
tinctured with illiberalism and the spirit of 
coterie. The Church of England service is 
performed by the chaplain attached to the 
British mission. The Casino is well supplied 
with periodical literature, including some of 
the London journals : visitors can be introduced 
by a member. House rent and living are, how- 
ever, more expensive than at other towns in 
this part of Germany. The air is pure, but 
the climate, in winter, is cold, and high winds 
are not uncommon. On the whole, Frankfort 



DARMSTADT. 267 

would not be an unliealthy place of residence 
for persons in health, but it would not be an 
advisable one for invalids. 

Hail communication is progressing rapidly 
between Frankfort to Wurzberg and Bamberg, 
there to join the northern line between ]\Iunich 
and Berlin. It has been some years established 
between Mayence and AVeisbaden, and lately 
all the way to Basle. This is an interesting 
route ; the scenery is agreeable, and several 
places of importance lie along the line. The 
environs of Darmstadt abound in gardens and 
pleasure-grounds. From the gate a fine avenue 
of lime trees is continued a considerable distance 
along the high road. 

Darmstadt owes it existence to the residence 
of the ducal court. Its general aspect is hand- 
some and court-like. Scarcely a shop is to be 
seen in the best streets, which are spacious 
and well paved, crossing each other at right 
angles. The finest is the Rhein Strasse, leading 
from the central square, in which stands the 
palace, to the lihine-gate, beyond which another 
magnificent vista of lime trees is continued for 
more than two miles. 

The country between Darmstadt and Heidel- 
berg is beautiful and fertile, though, as in 
France, no country-houses or detached cottages 
are to be seen, the population being congregated 
in towns and villages. The peasantry in this 
part of (jJermany are ])()or and h;ii(l->\(>rking. 



268 MANNHEIM. 

living chiefly upon coarse bread, vegetables, 
and milk, v^^ith animal food occasionally, and 
the inferior kind of Rhine wine. They are, 
however, for the most part, strong and healthy. 
Women are very commonly seen working in 
the fields till a late hour in the evening. 

Mannheim, like Darmstadt and Carlsruhe, 
is a town of modern erection, being scarcely 
more than a century old. It stands on the right 
bank of the Rhine, and is connected with the 
opposite side by a bridge of boats, and has, 
at first view, rather an attractive appearance, 
the streets being wide, well paved, and built 
in straight lines, the houses white and stuccoed, 
and there are three or four spacious squares. 
The palace is rather an imposing structure, 
enclosing a spacious court-yard ; its interior 
contains a few good pictures. The gardens are 
extensive, prettily laid out, and terminate in a 
long terrace, overlooking the Rhine. Several 
English families have taken up their residence 
at Mannheim, as living and house-rent are 
cheap, and there is usually a good deal of 
society in the winter. The theatre is tolerably 
good. The climate, however, in winter is cold 
and dam]3 ; part of the environs are marshy, 
and intermittent fevers are frequent among the 
inhabitants. I have known the health of some 
English persons to be materially deranged by a 
few months' I'esidence at Mannheim. Steamers 
pass and repass several times in the day; the 



HEIDELBERG. 2G9 

journey may now bo made from Maiinhtnm to 
Cologne in one day, and to London in less than 
three days. 

Twenty miutes are required to reach Pleidel- 
berg from Mannheim. Half-way arc the mosque, 
gardens, and fountains of ScliAveitzingen, con- 
structed in the middle of the last century. The 
environs of Heidelberg are a perfect garden, 
producing abundance of fruit and grain, while 

" The vine, the merry cheerer of the heart," 

ripens on many a sunny slope, and, though no 
longer contributing to fill the " tun," still diffuses 
its inspiriting influence throughout the land. 

Heidelberg is placed on the left bank of the 
Neckar, at the foot of a chain of hills extending 
up the valley, and is overlooked by the extensive 
and picturesque ruins of the castle, formerly 
the residence of the Electors Palatine, and one 
of the most interesting objects in Rhenish 
Germany. The castle was built of the reddish 
sandstone which abounds in the neighbourhood, 
and which still serves for the construction of 
many of the buildings in this part of the country. 
From the terrace a delightful prospect may be 
enjoyed, 

" O'er vales tliat teem witli fruits, romantic hills, 
Whereon to gaze the eye with joyaiicc fills ; " 

as also of the placid Neckar, and of tlio rich 
plain through wliich " Father Rhine " pursues 
his steady but rapid course. 



270 CARLSRUHE. 

The town is old, clean, and cheerful-looking, 
and may be an agreeable place for a temporary 
sojourn. The population amounts to about 
12,000 individuals, Catholics and Protestants, 
between whom religious differences excite no 
feelings of animosity ; both, in fact, use the 
same church for public worship. The university 
is but thinly attended : the present number of 
students does not exceed five hundred. They 
have latterly been politically quiet, but duels 
among themselves are of very common occur- 
rence ; almost every third or fourth of them 
has his face disfigured by a scar. It is seldom, 
however, that these duels prove mortal, on 
account of the precautions taken beforehand ; 
to prevent such an occurrence, a surgeon is paid 
by the state to take care of the wounded. 
Professors Tiedmann and Chelius are attached 
to the medical shool, which is highly estimated 
in Germany. 

Fine avenues of trees line the road on 
approaching Carlsruhe, the southern outskirts 
being disposed as agreeable pleasure-grounds. 
This town, like Darmstadt, has been built little 
more than a century, and is entirely dependant 
upon the grand ducal court. The streets are 
spacious and regularly built, the houses white 
and new-looking. The palace is a handsome 
edifice, occupying, with its dependencies, a semi- 
circle of the principal Place, the area of which is 
planted Avith trees and shrubs, and whence the 



BADEN-BADEN. 271 

chief streets diverge. The number of inhabitants 
is about sixteen thousand, besides the military, 
who are numerous. Beggars are seldom seen in 
this or other towns along the Rhine. Some 
English families have taken up their residence 
at C'arlsruhe, which offers facilities for education, 
and is a cheap place of abode. 

Baden-Baden lies partly on the acclivity of a 
hill, on which stands the chateau, and partly in 
the valley, which is disposed in meadows, corn- 
fields, and orchards, and is surrounded on all 
sides by lofty hills, clothed to their summits with 
beech, oak, and pine. The little river Oos " with 
gentle murmur glides" through the valley, diffus- 
ing fertility around, and on many of the lower 
eminences the vine is cultivated. 

Baden possesses the advantage of numerous 
shady walks, both in the valley and among the 
hills, without which the heat in summer would 
be excessive. The public pleasure-ground is 
agreeably laid out in parterres of shrubs and 
flowers, through which serpentine many pleasant 
paths, sheltered by rows of acacias and chcsnut- 
trees. The Com^crsation-haus, where trim ions for 
restauration, dancing, and gaming take pUice, is 
elegantly fitted up. Play is a great inducement 
for many objectionable characters to resort to 
Baden, and on that account it is not so much 
frc^quented by famihes of the higher classes as it 
would otherwise be. A splendid pum])-room, 
with portico, wliere many of the waters imported 



272 BADEN-BADEN. 

from other baths are drank, has been erected of 
late years. In the pleasure-gronnd, during the 
season, are numerous booths for the sale of 
prints, trinkets, &c. The town is clean and 
cheerful-looking; it contains upwards of five 
thousand inhabitants, and could receive nearly 
an equal number of visitors at a time. Many 
new houses and hotels have been built within 
the last few years, and the accommodations have 
been altogether greatly improved. The principal 
hotels are the Badischen, Englischen, Zahringen, 
and Russichen Hofs. There are likewise several 
other large hotels, which have baths in the 
house. The Church of England service is per- 
formed during the season. 

As only one good carriage-road passes through 
the valley, excursions are usually made on foot 
or on donkeys. The fine oak avenue leading to 
the village and convent of Lichtenthal is the most 
frequented afternoon drive. Among the most 
interesting objects in the environs may be men- 
tioned the Jagdhaus, the ruined castle of Ibourg,. 
and the castle of Eberstein, overlooking the 
picturesque valley of the Murg. Many delightful 
paths have likewise been made among the hills. 
One of the pleasantest is that leading to the 
extensive ruins of the old castle, which forms a 
prominent object in the view from below, and 
whence the eye ranges over a beautiful prospect 
of the pine-covered hills of the Black Forest on 
the one side, and on the other, of the plains 



WILDBAD. 273 

extending to the Rhine ; beyond which towers the 
lofty and elegant spire of Strasburg Cathedral. 

At Baden, as at every other watering-place out 
of the season, houses and apartments may be 
hired at a very low rate. It is not, however, 
eligible as a winter residence, for though it be in 
great measure sheltered from cold winds, yet, 
after rain, the ground remains long wet, and the 
dews in autumn are generally very heavy. Pro- 
visions and other necessaries are likewise very 
scarce, except during the season, and many of 
the essential articles of consumption require to 
be sent from Carlsruhe. 

Wildbad is about seven leagues distant from 
Baden. The drive, by the new road, across the 
mountains and the Murgthal, offers a pleasing 
diversity of scenery. This bath is greatly im- 
proved -within the last few years. At one 
extremity of the principal street are the hotels, 
kursaal, and bath buildings, constituting a Place. 
This town lies in one of the most sombre valleys 
of the Black Forest ; behind it flows the rapid 
rivulet Ens, the banks of which, for about a mile, 
form the promenade. There are some agreeable 
and shaded paths among the mountains, but 
altogether Wildbad would be a triste place of 
abode, unless seclusion or the restoring powers 
of its waters was sought for. The climate is raw 
and cold during great part of the year, whilst, 
from the deficiency of free ventilation, to which 
narrow valleys between wood-covered mountains 

T 



274 STUTTGARD. 

are subject, the atmosphere must be considerably- 
charged with moisture for some time after the 
faUing of heavy dew or rain. 

The water rises, through a layer of fine sand, 
to a height of from two to three feet in the 
basins or piscinae, in which several persons may 
bathe at the same time. The natural temperature 
of the water is 30° R., being that best adapted 
for bathing. The baths are extremely refreshing 
and agreeable, and are calculated for the allevia- 
tion of several chronic disorders. 

Stuttgard, the capital of Wurtemburg, is about 
four hours' diive from Wildbad, and is pleasantly 
situated in a valley surrounded by hills, on which 
the vine is cultivated, and, with the numerous 
white country-houses in the environs, looks well 
from a distance. It contains about 30,000 
inhabitants, though but little to interest the 
passing traveller, and offers no inducement for a 
protracted sojourn. The palace is surmounted 
by an enormous crown in bad taste. The interior 
is handsomely but not gaudily furnished. Since 
the construction of this palace the old one, in 
the centre of the square, has been appropriated 
to government offices. The palace gardens are 
extensive, prettily laid out a VAnglaise^ and 
open to the public ; they terminate at E,osenstein, 
the summer residence of the king, two miles 
from the town, of which it commands a good 
view, as well as of the course of the Neckar. 
The interior is tastily fitted up. 



CHAPTER XIV, 

NASSAU BATIIS-NnESBADEN-SCIILANGENBAD-SCIIWALBACH- 

EMS-TIIE RHINE-AIX LA CHAPELLE-SPA -BRUSSELS - 

ANTWERP-CALAIS. 

The duchy of Nassau, though small, is extremely 
beautiful, comprising within itself a great variety 
of scenery, while the fertility of its soil in many 
parts, its extensive woods, its valuable and 
numerous mineral sjjrings, and its vineyards, 
which produce some of the most esteemed kinds 
of Rhine wines, are never-failing sources of its 
richness. The most beautiful parts lie in the 
north of the duchy, about Limburg, the banks 
of the Lahn, the Rheingau, and some localities 
of the Taunus Mountains. Most of the mineral 
springs and of the forest lands belong to the 
duke, who is said to be one of the richest 
sovereigns in Europe. He is about thirty years 
of age, intelligent and well informed, and is 
generally popular among his subjects. The air 
of the duchy is light and liealthy, and many of 
the inhabitants attain an advanced age. The 
great majority arc Protestants. The labouring 
classes are sober and hard working : they arc all 
educated so as to be able to read and write ; and 
though many of tlie peasantry are extremely 



276 WIESBADEN. 

poor, there is no appearance of absolute destitu- 
tion, and begging is very rare, 

Wiesbaden, the capital, is encircled by low 
cultivated hills, behind which, on the north and 
north-east, rises the range of the Taunus Moun- 
tains, clothed with pine and other trees, the dark 
foliage of which forms a pleasing relief to the 
verdure of the valley and the white buildings of 
the town. The old part of the town presents 
nothing particularly remarkable, but the appear- 
ance of the Wilhelms Strasse, a handsome row of 
new houses fronting the promenades, is striking. 
Many other new streets, as well as isolated 
public buildings — among which is the Ducal 
Palace, in the centre of the town; the Minis- 
terium, or public offices ; and the new Catholic 
Church, still in progress of construction — ^have 
been erected within these few years, and the 
accommodations for visitors now leave little to 
be desired. 

The Curhaus der Vier Jahrszeiten, one of the 
most extensive hotels on the continent, forms a 
corner of the Wilhelms Strasse, and one side of 
a square, on the opposite side of which stands 
the new theatre, a neat building, where there is 
always a good company of performers during the 
season; at which period, also, concerts and 
exhibitions are given, by artists of celebrity from 
other towns in Germany or from London. Across 
the road is a grass enclosure bordered by avenues 
of limes, and on either side a colonnade for 



WIESBADEN. 277 

shops. At the extremity stands the Kiirsaal, an 
edifice which contains a magnificent saloon for 
balls and public assemblies, with smaller apart- 
ments for refreshment and gaming, Avhich is 
licensed by government during the season, 
though the inhabitants of the town are pro- 
hibited from risldng their money. The ^dsitors 
for the baths do not generally take an active 
part in the jiublic balls, which are more particu- 
larly attended by the inhabitants and holyday- 
folks from the neighbouring large towns. The 
reunions dansantes, which take place twice a 
week in one of the smaller rooms, are more 
select, and are generally preceded by a concert. 
The ground around the Kursaal and colonnades 
is laid out as a public garden, adorned with 
shrubs and flowers, and sheltered by acacias and 
other trees. From this pleasure-ground an 
agreeable jiath is continued by the side of a 
streamlet up the Valley of Sonnenberg, as far 
as the ruins of the ancient castle, two miles from 
AViesbadcn. 

Nothing, in fact, has been neglected to render 
AViesbaden the most frequented watering-place 
in Germany: the walks and drives are pleasing 
and varied; and from the rising grounds the 
Rliine, with Mayence, and other towns on its 
banks, are seen. The popidation amounts to 
upwards of 12,000, consisting principally of 
rentiers, government emploj/es, tradespeople, and 
those connected witli the bathing establishments, 



278 WIESBADEN, 

most of which are m the neighbourhood of the 
Kochbrunnen, or principal spring, which rises 
in an open space in the town, close to the acacia 
avenue, where the water-drinkers walk up and 
down in the morning, at which time an excellent 
band is in attendance. It is usual here, as at 
other German watering-places, for a band to 
play during dinner-time at the principal tables 
d'hote, though the music is frequently too noisy, 
and is not much relished by many of the 
English. 

The heat of the weather in July and August 
is, at times, very oppressive, and thunder-storms 
are not unfrequent, but are usually of short 
duration ; the evenings are generally fine and 
pleasant, and the air on the hills is light, 
bracing, and well calculated to remove the 
oppression caused by the atmosphere of the 
valley. From its sheltered position, "Wiesbaden 
possesses a good winter climate for Germany, 
and is drier than that of Baden. Several 
English families have remained the last few 
winters. House rent, at this time of the year, 
is, of course, low, compared with what it is in 
the summer. 

Sunday is a gala day in the season ; the shops 
continue open, as do the theatre and Kursaal, 
which are generally filled with visitors from 
Frankfort, Mayence, and other towns in the 
neighbourhood. On these occasions, some hun- 
dreds of persons dine at the tables d'hote of the 



WIESBADEN. 279 

Kursaal, the Vier Jalirszeiten, Duringcr's, and 
the Adler.* Almost all the English remaining 
at Wiesbaden, and other places in Germany, 
during the season, dine at the tahle d'hote, 
private dinners being not imfrequently comiDOsed 
of dishes warmed up a second time. One o'clock 
is the usual dining hour, but, for the convenience 
of those who prefer to dine later, a four o'clock 
table (Vhote is provided at some of the principal 
hotels, the price being higher and the dishes 
of a better quality. 

The duke resides, in the summer, at Biebrich, 
a chateau on the Rhine, about three miles from 
Wiesbaden, where there is an extensive garden, 
to which visitors have free ingress. A ducal 
hunting box, Die Platte, stands in a conspicuous 
position on an elevated ridge of the Taunus, 
and is usually visited by strangers. The apart- 
ments are tastily fitted up, with furniture 
chiefiy made of stags' horns, and several fine 
pairs of antlers hang around the hall as trophies 
of the late duke's achievements in the chase. 
From the roof a fine prospect is obtained of 
an extensive tract of variegated country, in- 
cluding the course of the river for several miles, 
and the chain of the Bergstrasse Mountains, 
with the woods of the Taunus and Wiesbaden 
lying immediately beneath : — 

* Diinii^vr'd now liotcl, noai' tlie niilnjad slalioii, i.s cxtioiiu'ly ucll 
coiuhictcd, and, ijuin;T at a diblaucc limii llic Imt .spi-iii^s, is inclcncd 
by many siiiniiiL-r visitor.^. 



280 SCHLANGENBAD. 

" Here waving groves a chequered scene display, 
And part admit, and part exclude the day ; 
There interspersed in lawns and opening glades. 
Thin trees arise that shun each other's shades ; 
Here in fall light the russet plains extend, 
There wrapt in clouds the blueish hills ascend." 

Those who are more particularly interested 
in the properties of the mineral springs may 
refer to my work, already mentioned. 

A two hours' drive from Wiesbaden, passing 
through part of the Hheingau, will bring the 
traveller to the delightful and secluded little 
bath Schlangenbad, which consists of a large 
Nassauer Hof; the old and new bath-houses, 
likewise large edifices, capable of lodging many 
visitors, and four or five smaller hofs or lodging- 
houses. There is likewise an old rambling- 
looking building, which served formerly as the 
public room, and where the attempt was made 
to establish a roulette table. The hills by which 
Schlangenbad is enclosed are thickly wooded; 
numerous walks, easy of ascent, have been 
cut to points whence extensive views may be 
obtained. 

Those who require quiet and retirement 
might pass a few weeks very agreeably at 
Schlangenbad, which, being higher and more 
shaded, is a much cooler residence than Wies- 
baden, The baths also, from being but slightly 
mineralised, may be used by persons in health 
without risk, and not only impart a pleasurable 
sensation at the time, but likewise a feeling of 



SCHWALBACH. 281 

Men etre for the remainder of the day. From 
the neighbourhood of Schlangenbad to Wies- 
baden and Schwalbach there is a constant 
interchange of visitors between these baths. 

Schwalbach is about an hour's walk from 
Schlangenbad, or a two hours' and a-half drive 
from AYiesbaden, through the woods of the 
Hohe Wurzel, one of the highest of the Taunus 
hills. This small town lies in a narrow valley, 
enclosed between steep hills almost denuded 
of w^ood, which imparts to 'them, at first view, 
rather a cheerless aspect. There are few con- 
tinental watering-places, however, which present 
more advantages for the temporary residence 
in the summer months of those who are desirous 
of avoiding the bustle and society of larger 
baths, especially should their health require 
the employment of chalybeates. 

vSchwalbach lies considerably higher tlian 
Wiesbaden, and though the town itself is at 
times hot in the middle of the day, when the 
sun's rays are reflected from the hills, yet the 
air out of the valley is extremely bracing ; 
the ground soon dries after rain, and the walks 
and rides in the environs are highly beautiful 
and varied. Within the last few years the 
place is considerably improved in its appearance 
and accommodations, tliougli the people are said 
to have become more exigcans. It must be borne 
in mind, however, that the season lasts little 
more than two months, after which several of 



282 



EMS. 



the hotels and houses are unoccupied during 
the remainder of the year. Here, also, gaming- 
tables are established in the public rooms of 
the Allee Saal, the principal hotel, which opens 
out upon the Allee on a fine avenue of trees 
continuous with the public promenade, where 
two of the springs (the Weinbrunnen and the 
Pauline) arise ; the third spring (Stahlbrunnen) 
is separated by a low hill from the others. 
Near the Weinbrunnen is the new bath-house, 
which contains numerous commodious bathing 
cabinets, and a promenade room. As the waters 
of Schwalbach are cold, they require to be 
heated to the proper temperature for bathing, 
which is effected by means of steam. A colon- 
nade extends the whole length of the building, 
beneath which booths are opened in the season 
for the sale of books, toys, &c.* 

About four hours are required for the journey 
from Schwalbach to Ems. The road is hilly 
as far as Nassau, a pretty hamlet, delightfully 
situate on the right bank of the Lahn, which 
is crossed by a neat suspension bridge. On 
the hill overlooking the village are the ruins 
of the Castle of Nassau, which, with the sur- 
rounding territory, was the original patrimony 
of the ancestors of the duke, and which now 
forms a prominent and interesting feature in 
the scene. From Nassau to Ems the road 

"'" Tlie Poste, the Heizog von Nassau, and the Hotel de I'Europc, are 
the houses most frequented by the English. 



EMS. 283 

follows the course of the river as it Aviiids 
between woody and cultivated hills. 

Ems consists chiefly, of a long range of houses, 
built against hills, which rise steeply behind it 
to a considerable height. The side of the valley 
is so narrow that there is barely s^^ace for the 
road and the public promenade between the 
houses and the river. Several houses have latterly 
been built on the opposite bank. The principal 
building is the Kurhaus, which stands in the cen- 
tre of the village. On the ground-floor the water 
of the two principal springs is drunk. Between 
the two springs there is a long passage, on either 
side of which are ranged stalls for the sale of 
fancy articles ; the upper stories of the building- 
are disposed in apartments, the price of each, 
as fixed by the government, being ticketed on 
the door, as this establishment belongs to the 
duke. The public garden opposite the Kurhaus, 
though small, is prettily laid out. AMtliin the 
last few years a handsome Cursaal has been 
constructed, in place of the former public 
rooms, for assemblies and play. An excellent 
musical band performs in the garden morning 
and evening, at the hours of drinking the 
waters. The E-ussichen and Englischen Hofs, 
and the new hotel of the Vier Jahrszeiten, 
may be mentioned as the principal hotels. The 
lodging-house of the Vier Thunnen, a large 
isolated building, surrounded by a garden, at 
the extremity of town, and the only private 



284 



MAYENCE. 



house containing baths, with a turret at each 
angle, forms a striking object in the picture 
of Ems. 

The situation of Ems is eminently beautiful, 
and the neighbourhood possesses several objects 
of interest, to which excursions are usually 
made on donkeys, which are here numerous 
and well-conditioned, and without which many 
of the visitors would be unable to ascend the 
steep hills by which the valley is enclosed. 
From this narrowness of the valley there is a 
want of free ventilation ; the air is exceedingly 
oppressive and relaxing in July and August, 
so that it would not be an eligible residence 
at this time of the year for those who do not 
require its waters. The only road for carriages 
is the one passing through the valley from 
Coblentz, which is about twelve miles distant, 
or to Schwalbach and Wiesbaden, which is daily 
traversed by an eilwagen. 

Mayence is seven miles distant from Wies- 
baden, whence the trajet is made in twenty 
minutes by the railroad to Cassel, the fortress 
on the right bank of the Rhine, which forms 
part of the fortifications, and is connected with 
Mayence by a bridge of boats. Though belong- 
ing to the duchy of Hesse Darmstadt, Mayence 
is strongly garrisoned by the Austrians and 
Prussians, owing to its importance as a fortress 
of the Confederation. It looks well from a 
distance, but possesses few interesting public 



MAYENX'E. 285 

edifices except the cathedral, and only two or 
three good streets, the majority being narrow 
and irregularly built. A bronze statue of 
Guttenberg, of indifferent execution, stands in 
the market place. The number of inhabitants 
amounts to about 30,000, exclusive of the 
military. A short distance from the town is 
a public garden, with a platform overlooking 
the Rhine, at the point where the ISIaine flows 
into it, and commanding a good view of Mayence, 
its bridge of boats, and part of the Rheingau, 
with the Taunus in the background. The 
military bands of the garrison play here alter- 
nately every week during the summer, on which 
occasions many of the Wiesbaden visitors resort 
to Mayence. 

Steamers leave Mayence daily for Cologne, 
touching at Biebrich, whence the journey to 
Rotterdam may be made in two days. With 
the exception of the part between INIayence 
and Bonn, the banks of the Rhine are flat, 
and present but little interest, so that most 
travellers quit the river at Cologne, and pass 
through Belgium to reach the sea, either at 
Antwerp or Ostend, which is the most expeditious 
route to England since the railroad has been 
completed. 

On descending the river from Mayence, tlic 
Palace of Biebrich first attracts attention, and 
looks well from the water. Further on lie 
the pretty towns of Geisenheim and Rudeshcim, 



286 BINGEN. 

where two of the most esteemed wines of the 
Rhemgau are produced. The Castle of Johamiis- 
berg, on its vine-covered hill, is likewise a pro- 
minent object in this part. Opposite Rudesheim 
stands Bingen, whence persons not pressed for 
time will derive much gratification from ascend- 
ing the beautiful Valley of the Nahe, beyond 
Kreutznach, the waters of which have been 
a good deal in repute during the last few years. 
The scenery of this valley is of the highest 
order of picturesque beauty. At Bingen the 
Rhine, becoming narrower, serpentines rapidly 
past 

" Many a rock which steeply lowers," 

crowned with castellated ruins, and hills cut 
in terraces for the cultivation of the vine, 
rising above neat towns and villages which 
adorn the banks ; among these Oberwesel (above 
which stands the Castle of Schonberg), Boppart,* 
and St. Goar, which is overlooked by the ruined 
fortress of Rheinfels, are remarkable for the 
beauty of their position, the river at these points 
being hemmed in by the mountains, so as to 
give it the appearance of a lake. Rheinfels 
was one of the most extensive of the fortresses 
on the Rhine, and was considered impregnable 
till it was taken by the French, by whom it 

* Overlookhig Boppart stands Marienberg, formerly an extensive 
convent, now an establishment for the cold water cure, of which I have 
given an account in my work, " Hydropathy and Homceopathy impartially 
Appreciated." 



COBLEXTZ. 287 

was destroyed. It now presents a complete 
picture of desolation : — 

" Vcrbranut siiid Tliiiren iiiul Tliore 
Uiid iiberalt ist es so still, 
Das alte verfallnc GcmUuer, 
Diirchklettr' ich wie icli nur will." 

Marksburg, the only one of these castles which 
has escaped destruction, and is in a habitable 
condition, is now used as a state prison. It 
stands perched on the summit of one of the 
highest and steepest rocks, and is seen from a 
considerable distance. Further on stands Stot- 
zenfels (which was presented to the King of 
Prussia, and was put into repair), opposite the 
embouchure of the Lahn, whence an agreeable 
road leads to Ems. A little beyond, Coblentz 
and its rocky fortress, Ehrenbreitstein, rise upon 
the view. 

Coblentz is a neat town, lying at the point of 
union of the Moselle and the Ilhinc, and is 
strongly fortified on every side. It contains 
about 12,000 inhabitants. A bridge of boats 
crosses the Rliine, and connects the town with 
Ehrenbreitstein, whose precipitous rock, bristling 
with defences down to the water's edge, frowns 
defiance around, and is now considered to be 
impregnable. 

Between Coblentz and Cologne the banks of 
the river are less hilly, but more fertile, and 
thickly Avooded. Few rocky eminences or ruins 



288 



BONN COLOGNE. 



are seen before arriving at the seven mountains ; 
tlie highest of them is crowned by the " castled 
crag of Drachenfels," which immediately over- 
looks the river, whence it is seen to great 
advantage. On the opposite bank stands Godes- 
berg, the last of the ruins, beyond Avhich 
the river flows through a cultivated plain to 
Cologne. 

Bonn is an ancient town, enclosed within 
walls, with narrow and badly paved streets, and 
presents nothing of sufficient interest to delay 
the traveller. The university enjoys a high 
reputation, and Avas founded in 1818 by the late 
king, on the model of the university of Berlin. 
The students are for the most part orderly and 
diligent. Their number is about 1,000. A fine 
avenue of trees leads to the Castle of Popx^lesdorf, 
where there is a botanical garden. 

Cologne, the chief city of Rhenish Prussia, 
contains 50,000 inhabitants and a large garrison. 
Like Mayence and Coblentz, it is connected by 
a bridge of boats with fortifications on the 
opposite banks. It has only one square, and the 
streets are narrow, irregular, and dirty, presenting 
altogether a sombre appearance. The cathedral, 
built in the old gothic style, is in progress 
towards completion, and, seen from a distance, 
appears like two separate buildings. Rubens 
was a native of Cologne ; his portrait, and an 
inscription on the wall, indicate the house in 
which he was born. The crucifixion of St. Peter, 



AIX LA CHAPELLE. 289 

a chef (Voeuvre of this painter, is exliibitt'd in one 
of the churches. 

The country between Cologne and. Aix la 
C'liapelle is level and well cultivated. This town 
is delightfully situated in a well-wooded and 
fertile valley, surrounded by gentle risings of 
ground covered with verdure. But little of its 
former magnificence remains ; the gates and 
walls have been demolished, and the ramparts, 
planted with limes and chesnut-trees, now form 
an agreeable promenade. The number of in- 
habitants is about 30,000, and the to^vn presents 
a stirring and animated appearance during the 
bathing season. 

The most remarkable public edifices are the 
Hotel de Ville, and the cathedral or chapelle 
built by Charlemagne, where the ashes of this 
potentate till lately reposed. Two or three 
spacious new streets have been erected for 
the accommodation of visitors. The principal 
hotels and bathing-houses are conveniently fitted 
up, and are provided with requisite apparatus 
for douches and vapour-baths. The season begins 
in June, and terminates about the middle of 
September, after which period the coolness of 
the atmosphere would tend to counteract the 
operation of the waters. The lledoute is a hand- 
some public room for balls, and where gaming is 
carried on ; play is under the sui)erintendencc 
of government, an employe being always in 
attendance to prevent any of tlie inliabitants of 

u 



290 SPA. 

the toAvn from participating in the chances of 
the gaming-table. 

The environs of Aix la Chapelle abound in 
pleasant drives and rides, which adds greatly to 
its attraction as a summer residence. The most 
favourite place of resort of the inhabitants is 
Louisberg, a hill near the town, of which it 
commands a good view, as well as of the little 
town Borcette, and the richly variegated scenery 
of the surrounding country. 

Spa lies at an equal distance between Liege 
and Aix la Chapelle, in an agreeable valley of 
the Ardennes, at the foot of and between two 
projecting masses of a steep hill forming an 
amphitheatre, by which the greater part of it is 
sheltered from the north and east. The valley 
is a thousand feet above the level of the sea, and 
is a pleasant abode during a few weeks in 
summer. The walks and rides in the environs, 
and about the hills, are beautiful and varied ; 
the most usual point of reunion is the Tromenade 
de Se^yt Heures, which, however, of late years, has 
presented rather a deserted appearance, the tide 
of fashion having flowed in other directions ; 
and since the Belgian revolution, this bath has 
been abandoned by its Dutch visitors, who used 
to resort thither in large numbers. Spa, notwith- 
standing, does not lack resources for amusement. 
There are a theatre, public rooms for baths and 
concerts, a redoute, where games of hazard are 
played, and ponies for excursions into the 



SPA. 291 

country. It is, moreover, not expensive as a 
summer residence, and is still a good deal fre- 
quented by the English who are in the habit of 
wintering at Brussels. 

The country about Spa abounds in chalybeate 
sprmgs, and oxide of iron is occasionally visible 
on the rocks. The principal spring, the Pouhon, 
is the only one which rises in the town. The 
water has the usual characteristics of springs of 
this kind, and tastes more astringent than many 
others, from the comparatively small quantity of 
salts. Exposed to the action of the air, the 
iron is soon deposited in the form of a reddish 
brown sediment. The temperature of the water 
is 8° E. 

An avenue of horse-chesnut trees leads from 
Spa to the Geronstere spring, two miles distant, 
and surrounded with pleasure-grounds. The 
Sauveniere and the Groesbeek springs are also 
at some distance from the town, in the woods ; 
the former contains more iron and gas than the 
Geronstere. About a mile from the latter are 
the two Tonnelets, chiefly used for baths, for 
which purpose there is a low dilapidated-looking 
building on the spot. Carbonic acid is in such 
abundance in the neighbourhood of these springs 
that it is frequently perceived issuing from the 
clefts in the rocks. The quantity is augmented 
in certain states of the atmosphere, especially 
during the prevalence of north winds. 

The high road from Aix la Chapolle to Liege 



292 THE MEUSE. 

traverses a richly-wooded and beautiful undu- 
lating country, and from the high grounds a 
series of delightful prospects may be enjoyed, 
Liege lies between steep hills on the left bank 
of the Meuse : it exhibits all the bustle of a 
large commercial and manufacturing town, and 
has an aspect of great antiquity, the houses 
being old, most of the streets narrow, dirty, and 
irregularly built. The principal manufactories 
are iron work, especially fire-arms. On the hiU 
above the town stands the citadel, which is 
strongly fortified. Persons who are more gratified 
in viewing beautiful scenery than in hurrying 
through a country should take the route to 
Brussels by Namur. The valley of the Meuse 
between this town and Liege is full of pastoral 
beauty and richness. The river flows placidly 
through scenery diversified by corn and meadow 
land, among which villages and neat farm-houses 
are thickly scattered, low woody or cultivated 
hills, sloping downwards to the water's edge, 
and precipitous sandstone rocks, whose greyish 
hue presents a pleasing contrast with the verdure 
by which they are surrounded. At Huy the 
river is crossed by a neat stone bridge ; a fort, 
built in 1815 by the allies, crowns an eminence 
commanding the bridge and the road to Namur. 
This town is strongly fortified by a citadel and 
extensive works along the heights, which over- 
look the river ; and by ramparts and a double 
fosse extending round it on the land side. Its 



BRUSSELS. 293 

streets are narrow and dirty; the popnlation 
amounts to about 20,000 persons. 

The road to Brussels here quits the Mouse, 
passing through a populous and liighly cultivated 
country, the pretty hamlet of Waterloo, and the 
battle field, which is now the most productive 
land in Belgium : — 

" How that red rain hath made the harvest grow!" 

The farm of La Haye Sainte stands on the road- 
side ; its walls still bear visible marks of the 
conflict. Before arriving at Brussels, you pass 
llirough " dark Soignies" wood, and the village 
of Mount St. Jean ; in the church are marble 
tablets inscribed with the names of some of the 
British who fell in the action. 

Brussels presents the stirring and animated 
appearance of a large capital ; its population 
amounts to 100,()()() persons. Spacious boulevards, 
embellished with ranges of handsome houses, 
encircle the town ; the principal streets are wide, 
regularly built, and lined with showy shops. 
The Place and Hue Royale, in j)nrticular, have a 
handsome and courtly appearance, and, together 
with the park, form a splendid coup (Vwil. The 
park, tliough small, is pleasantly laid out, and 
tlie walks are well shelterc^d by lofty trees. At 
each end stands a royal ])alac(\ whicli seen 
through the vista of lr(;es i)r()(bices ;\ good ertect. 
One of these, the Palace of llic l*iiii((> (»(' Orange, 
contains ii(ldy-d('C<nat('d a]>aitMi(iits and beanti- 



294 BRUSSELS. 

fully inlaid floors, and is generally visited by 
strangers. Among the most interesting public 
edifices are the Church of St. Gudule, an ancient 
gothic structure, somewhat resembling, in its 
exterior, the Cathedral of Notre Dame at Paris, 
and the Hotel de Ville, likewise a fine specimen 
of gothic architecture, of which the extensive 
facade, adorned with finely sculptured fret- 
work, and the lofty elegant spire, are strikingly 
beautiful. 

In the immediate neighbourhood of Brussels 
is the geographical establishment, founded by 
an individual in 1830, for lithographic maps 
and engravings, and the construction of globes 
of various sizes. Attached to it are a botanical 
garden, a museum of natural history, and a large 
room for the delivery of lectures on various 
scientific subjects. A little beyond this institu- 
tion stands the Palace of Lacken, the usual 
residence of the king. The Belgians resemble 
the French in several points of their character. 
They are, however, more religious than the 
Parisians, and, being almost all Catholics, the 
clergy have considerable influence, not only over 
domestic life, but also in public matters. There 
has long been a large colony of English at 
Brussels, which may be in many respects likened 
to Paris on a small scale: the chief advantage 
which it presents over the French metropolis is 
in the greater cheapness of house-rent and 
living. The winter chmate is perhaps one of 



ANTWERP. 295 

the least eligible, as compared Avith many other 
towns frequented by the English, on the 
continent.* 

The railroad conveys travellers from Brussels 
to Antwerp in about an hour (through a level 
fertile country, intersected in many parts by 
canals) ; to Ostend in five hours ; to Lille in five 
and a-half ; and the whole distance from Ostend 
to the Rhine at Cologne in about thirteen hours. 

Antwerp has an antique and rather sombre 
appearance ; the houses are built in the old 
Flemish style, with their gables fronting the 
street. At the corner of several of the streets 
the figure of the Virgin and Infant may be seen, 
as in Italian towns. The quays along the 
Scheldt are broad and liandsome ; several basins 
for the repairing of shipping communicate w ith 
the river. Many of the women wear rich black 
silk scarfs, termed camelots, to cover their head 
and slioulders, over which the camelot descends 
in the mantilla fashion. This costume has been 
continued since the time of the Spanish occupa- 
tion of the Netherlands. It is, however, now^ 
very much superseded by French fasliions, 
and is mostly confined to old or middle-aged 
ladies. 

The principal object of interest to tlie passing 
traveller is the cathedral, one of the finest 
specimens of Gothic architecdnc extant, which, 

* The joiiincy between Ihcw two capital now utciniito abuiit lliiilecn 
lioius. 



296 GHENT BRUGES. 

however, is not seen to advantage, on account 
of shops and other erections being built up 
against it. In the interior the large picture 
of the Descent from the Cross, a chef d'oeuvre 
of Kubens, will immediately attract attention. 
There is likewise another picture, the Elevation 
of the Cross, by the same artist, which, however, 
is inferior to the former. From the summit of 
the building an extensive panorama is displayed 
to the view of the town, the course of the 
Scheldt, Brussels, Ghent, and other towns. The 
citadel, and the position occupied by the 
French during the siege, are likewise best seen 
from this point. The museum contains but 
few superior pictures. 

Ghent has a population of 84,000 persons, 
but is not a place calculated for the residence 
of English families, though a day or two might 
be passed in viewing its churches, collection 
of pictures, and theatre, which is one of the 
finest in Europe. 

At Bruges, which has 40,000 inhabitants, 
there are about 200 resident English. Two or 
three of the churches are worth visiting, but 
the town has a dull aspect, and the only induce- 
ment to select it for a residence is cheapness 
of living. 

The sea passage from Antwerp to London 
is very little more than that from Ostend, as 
there is five or six hours' navigation of the 
river. The departure is usually at noon, as there 



OSTEND. 297 

is no occasion to wait for tide as at Ostcnd and 
other ports. 

Osteud is but a dull place, though generally 
full of visitors in the sea-batliing season. 

Those persons, however, who dislike a long- 
sea passage, and are not pai'ticularly pressed 
for time, will do well to proceed from Brussels 
to Calais, which only requires an additional few 
hours, instead of going from Brussels to Ostend. 
The scenery of this route is in some parts higldy 
interesting, being agreeably diversified with 
woods, cidtivated lands, and neat farms. 

Lille, the frontier town of France, is well 
fortified, commercial, and dii'ty-looldng, with 
a population of 60,000 inhabitants ; a few posts 
further on the traveller enters Cassel, a neat 
little town, situate on the hill of the same name, 
commanding a most extensive prospect of the 
plains of Belgium, Flanders, and Picardy. In 
clear weather may be seen, from this elevation, 
besides innumerable villages, the towns of Dun- 
kirk, Ostend, Bruges, Courtray, Lille, and St. 
Omer, together with the sea, and, in the extreme 
distance, 

" That pale, tliat white-faced shore, 
Wliose foot spurns back tlie ocean's roarini; tiilcs, 
Antl coops from otlier lands her islanders." 

Th(^ eountry between Cassel and Calais is 
pretty and rather hilly. S(, Onicr is a shoiig 
town, rontaiiiiiii-- about 20,(100 mliabilants ; {\iv 



298 CALAIS. 

streets have a triste and deserted appearance. 
A few English families have taken up their 
residence at St. Omer, vrhich presents no other 
advantage than the cheapness of living. The 
environs of Calais are flat, and totally devoid 
of interest. The town was formerly termed 
an universal inn, from its bustling aspect, caused 
by the constant arrivals and departures, but 
Boulogne and Ostend have been more favoured 
of late years; Calais will, however, supersede 
Ostend, as regards the majority of Belgian and 
German tourists, when the railroad to Lille is 
completed, though it oifers at the present day 
no more inducement to travellers for delaymg 
their departure than it did to one of Ariosto's 
heroes, when on his embassy from the camp of 
Charlemagne to England, who, we are told, 

" a Calesse, in poche ore trovossi 

E giunto, il di medesmo imbarcossi." 



APPENDIX. 



Remarks oh the lufluence of Climate and Travel, 
and on some Prevalent Causes of Disease * 

The great influence exerted by different localities 
and states of the air upon the human race 
could not fail to have been observed from the 
earliest periods, and has been repeatedly com- 
mented upon by medical authorities from Hip- 
pocrates to our own times, though of late years 
the consideration of this influence has not had 
its due weight in this country as respects the 
remedying disordered conditions of the economy, 
except in some particular instances. It is not 
my intention to dilate upon this subject, but a 
few observations may not inaptly be here in- 
troduced. 

Every one will hav{; remarked tlie striking 

* Many persona out of licallii will doiilaloss he deterrod by the pre- 
sent unsettled state of the Continent from winlerinf^ abroad. Those who 
are interested in the subject may, therefore, obtain information relative to* 
the advantages of diliereut localities at liome from tiie last edition of my 
work on the English Watering-places. 



300 ' APPENDIX. 

differences observable in various classes of the 
community, according to the quality of the air 
they breathe, and the nature of their avocations. 
"What, for instance, can be more marked than 
the contrast which is presented by the inhabit- 
ants of a marshy plain with the dwellers upon 
the mountains by which that plain is enclosed 1 
or than that which exists between agriculturists, 
sportsmen, and others, who take active exercise 
and are constantly changing the air, and the 
pallid countenances and deficient muscular energy 
exhibited by those inhabitants of a metropolis, 
or of a large manufacturing town, who, during 
the greater part of the day, inhale the close and 
vitiated atmosphere of workshops and counting- 
houses ? Who has not noticed the difference 
in the apjDearance of many of the higher orders 
of society, especially of the ladies, on their arrival 
from the country and at the close of the London 
season, after subjection to the combined agency 
of want of proper muscular exercise, breathing 
the air of crowded rooms, and of the high 
nervous excitement consequent upon a life of 
so-called pleasure? What a difference also do 
not the diseases of these various classes of persons 
present 1 How differently, again, is not the same 
person affected in health and feelings according 
to the warmth or coldness, the humidity or 
dryness, of the atmosphere, and its variation 
with respect to the electricity with which it is 
charged. 



APPENDIX. oOl 

The effects of climate on body and mind are 
perceptible on a large scale in the inhabitants 
of different regions of the globe. Thus, in cold 
latitudes, the molecides of the body are approxi- 
mated to each other, as evidenced in the stunted 
growth of the Icelanders, Laplanders, and Esqui- 
maux ; the blood is driven from the surface to 
the internal parts, the insensible perspiration is 
lessened, the activity of the skin being superseded 
by increased exhalation from the pulmonary 
surface. The air in northern regions being 
denser and more charged with electricity, a 
larger quantity is introduced into the lungs, 
and more oxygen is supplied to the blood. 

From the augmented action of the lungs and 
air passages under these circumstances, these 
parts are necessarily predisposed to disease ; 
hence the frequency of their inflammatory affec- 
tions; and, as regards the functions of the 
alimentary canal, there is an aphorism of Hippo- 
crates, " Cutis vara, alvus densa'' The eyes are 
also affected by the prevalence of cold, the eye- 
lids of Laplanders being very commonly red and 
tumefied. 

The effects of warm climates on the animal 
economy are necessarily of an oi)posite kind to 
those above-mentioned ; the body is more ex- 
]ianded, the blood is drawn to the surface (whicli 
is seconded by the diminished density of the air), 
and the cutaneous secretion is increased. This 
increased degree of vitality and s('nsi])ility of tlie 



302 



APPENDIX. 



skin renders its diseases more frequent and 
intractable. In consequence of less oxygen being 
taken into the lungs, from the air being more 
rarified, the venous system predominates over 
the arterial, and the liver, excited to greater 
activity, plays an important part in the decar- 
bonization of the blood — hence the frequency of 
its diseases in warm climates. The effects of 
temperate climates necessarily vary according to 
the seasons. Thus, in winter and spring, affections 
of the respiratory organs, hsemorrhages, rheu- 
matism, and apoplexy will be more common. 
The frequent variations of temperature, and 
especially exposure to cold and humidity, are 
the most usual cause of inflammations of the 
membranes and viscera. In summer and autumn, 
on the other hand, analogous disorders to those 
of warm climates are most prevalent: gastritic 
and abdominal irritation and relaxation, cholera, 
fevers of various types, and spasmodic and 
nervous affections. Pulmonary consumption is 
more frequent in temperate than in either cold 
or warm latitudes : in proportion as we advance 
towards the tropical regions does its frequency 
diminish. A cold and humid temperature, and 
frequent atmospheric vicissitudes, by producing 
repeated bronchial inflammatory attacks, are the 
chief exciting causes. Cold and humidity com- 
bined are likewise chiefly instrumental in the 
production of diseases of the lymphatic system, 
local and general dropsies, scrofula, rickets, &c., 



APPENDIX. 303 

as also of calculous disorders, which are rare 
in southern latitudes, where the amount of renal 
secretion is greatly diminished by that of the 
cutaneous exhalants. To this cause may be 
added the more vegetable nature of the diet of 
the population. Gout, which has great analogy, 
as to its causes and nature, "with the before- 
mentioned complaints, is also more prevalent in 
England, France, Germany, and other temperate 
climes. On the whole, however, the mortality is 
much less than in either cold or warm climates. 
England is, perhaps, the country where the 
annual mortality is the least in proportion to the 
population. According to the statistical accounts, 
the proportion of births is as one to thirty-five, 
of deaths as one to fifty-eight. Next to England, 
Sweden ranks as the healthiest country, then 
Belgium, then France ; so that, if the vicissitudes 
of the seasons occasion many diseases, they are, 
not^svithstanding, a source of salubrity, by purify- 
ing and renewing the atmosphere. 

The greatest mortality occurs in warm coun- 
tries, and, as regards Europe, it increases in 
proportion as we advance from the central parts 
southward. Thus, while in the former there is 
only one death in forty, in the latter the propor- 
tion is as one to thirty-three, and this rate of 
mortality goes on increasing as we advance 
towards the regions near the equator. In all 
these countries, however, the amount of births is 
greater in proportion than in the north. 



304 APPENDIX. 

According to the author from whom some of 
these statistics are taken, the cities in which the 
average mortality is the least stand in the follow- 
ing order: — London, Madrid, Moscow, Paris, 
Copenhagen, Naples, Dresden, Amsterdam, 
Stockholm, Vienna, Venice.* As regards the 
influence of climate on the mental and moral 
qualities, M. Foissac observes : — " The seasons 
may be considered, according to Hippocrates, as 
the chief causes of the diiferences observed 
among men : the regularity or irregularity with 
which they pursue their course impresses itself 
upon the physiognomy and moral habits. In 
countries where the temperature is always the 
same the inhabitants are naturally disposed to 
indolence, and men are led astray by the irre- 
sistible attractions of pleasure ; those commotions 
which render the disposition fiery, intractable, 
and enterprising, do not occur ; whereas bodily 
exercise and mental activity become a want in 
countries where the seasons are more variable ; 
labour and fatigue occasion courage and stimu- 
late industry. 

" The climate of Europe, being the most modi- 
fied by the irregularity and alteration of the 
seasons, is likewise that in which the genius of 
man has given birth to the greatest number of 
prodigies in the arts and sciences. In Africa 
nothing great has been done, except in those 
regions which are liable to great and sudden 

* Foissac. — De I'lnfluence ties Climats sur F Homme. 



APPEXDIX. 305 

changes of temperature. In Asia there are 
scarcely any temperate climates : in the southern 
parts the productions of the earth are obtained 
and enjoyed without labour ; on the other hand, 
in the wild countries of its northern zone, nature 
is unproductive, life languishes, and human 
industry barely suffices to maintain a miserable 
existence. In its centre alone are some countries 
the temperature of Avhich resembles that of 
Europe; and from then- bosom have emanated 
the warhke armies which have conquered the 
rest of Asia. The same remark applies to 
America. Those countries in which frequent 
variations of the seasons are most experienced 
are also those which first enter upon the path 
of civilization, and those where it makes the 
greatest progress. We may, from these instances, 
perceive how great a value we ought to attach 
to the return and continual succession of cold 
and heat, to winds, and even to tempests, which 
interrupt the uniformity of each season ; and yet 
man, always blind and ignorant of the condition 
of the true good which he possesses, laments 
that he so seldom enjoys the equability of tem- 
perature, which presents to him the attraction of 
pleasure. He does not see that a perpetual 
spring, the golden age of nature, dreamt of by 
poets, would be destructive to genius, to courage, 
and virtue. The volcano of Pichincha is not the 
most dangerous enemy which threatens the 
inhabitants of the delicious valley of Quito." 

X 



306 APPENDIX. 

With respect to the variableness of the 
English climate, Sir H. Davy observed: — " Of 
all the climates of Europe, England seems to me 
to be most fitted for activity of mind, and the 
least suited to repose: the alternations of a 
climate so various and rapid constantly awaken 
new sensations, and the changes in the sky, from 
dryness to moisture, from the blue ethereal to 
cloudiness and fogs, seem to keep the nervous 
system in a constant state of excitement. In the 
changeful and tumultuous atmosphere of Eng- 
land to be tranquil is a labour, and employment 
is necessary to ward off the attacks of ennui. The 
English nation is pre-eminently active, and the 
natives of no other country follow their object 
with so much force, fire, and constancy."* 

Every one has experienced in himself the 
variation in his feelings and capabilities for 
mental or muscular exertion, according to differ- 
ent states of the atmosphere at different periods, 
and even in different hours of the same day. 
This is more especially apparent in certain 
disordered conditions of the economy, as in 
most nervous complaints, in Avhich atmospheric 
changes can often be confidently predicted from 
the sensations experienced; and, on the other 
hand, it is less felt in proportion as the body is 
in health and the mind occupied. 

" There are days," says the author ah^eady 
quoted, " on which the mind falls into a state of 

* Consolations of Travel. 



APPENDIX. 307 

languor, and despairs of the future. Overcome 
by insurmountable sadness, it casts a veil of 
mourning over the whole of nature, existence is 
a burden, philosophy is powerless, and friendship 
has no charms. Everything, even consolation, 
importunes us. This state of anguish, which seems 
to us irremediable, passes away without ob\ious 
reason, and sometimes with a quickness which 
seems to be marvellous. What secret cause can 
"then have produced so sudden a metamorphosis ] 
— a cloud, which obscured the heavens, has dis- 
appeared — the Avind, which agitated the air, is 
hushed. It seems certain that, in our climate, 
the east wind predisposes to sadness and dis- 
couragement. It is said that it blows crimes 
upon Cadiz. 

" None of the intellectual faculties or affections 
escape this powerful action : the dispositions of 
mind are not more variable than the atmosphere. 
Poets, painters, and musicians know that inspira- 
tion is capricious ; it comes when least expected, 
and refuses when it is solicited. Oratory, 
philosophy, the sciences, and reason, are subject 
to the same laws, and to the same influence. 
On remarking all the contradictory sentiments 
which in man succeed each other, one would be 
inclined to say that he only acts from caprice, 
being alternately brave or timid, insensible to 
affront or ready to avenge liimself on the 
slightest oftence — either impassioned for glory or 
disdaining her favours, llevolutioiis and ci\il 



308 



APPENDIX. 



wars, if not occasioned, have at least too often 
been imj)ressed with bloody characters which 
have stained the page of history, by the consti- 
tution of the atmosphere. It is chiefly on the 
approach of storms that man feels himself less 
disposed to labour or philosophical speculations : 
he is then more inclined to impatience, anger, 
and depression. 

" From this it is easy to conceive how tem- 
porary and individual impressions may become 
general. Let us suppose, what really exists, that 
in a particular country the atmospheric constitu- 
tion of which impresses upon the moral any 
determinate tendency, all the inhabitants will be 
more or less affected. The cerebral faculties, 
constantly exercised, will assume an anormal 
development ; this disposition, transmitting itself 
from generation to generation, and receiving 
from the always active influence of the air its 
continual nourishment, may become the moral 
type of a people, and impart a distinct phy- 
siognomy to the national character." 

Thus far as regards the general influence of 
climates upon individual and national health, 
character, and disposition; it is not, however, 
merely the breathing of a warm or cold air, a 
dry or a damp one, which requires to be con- 
sidered in a remedial point of view, but beyond 
this, the action of these states of the atmosphere 
upon the surface of the body, and consequently 
upon internal organs, which has already been 



APPENDIX. 309 

partially referred to. Every medical man is 
aware of the close sympathetic relations existing 
between the skin and internal parts, especially 
the mucous membranes and the thoracic and 
abdominal viscera, of which the bronchial, 
pulmonic, or enteritic irritations and inflamma- 
tions, induced by a chill, exposure to wet, &c., 
are familiar examples. In winter it is well 
known that there is a corresponding diminution 
in the amount of the insensible perspiration, with 
a greater increase of bronchial and renal secre- 
tion, whereas in summer the reverse occurs, and 
we are more inclined to be thirsty, on account of 
the increased excretion from the skin. When, 
therefore, we consider the coldness, variableness, 
and humidity of the climates of Great Britain 
and Ireland during a great j^ortion of the year, 
we at once perceive a cause of the great preva- 
lence among us of many diseases, especially 
catarrhal aff"ections, pulmonic consumption, rheu- 
matism, &c., which so frequently resist the 
efl'orts of medicine, and in the removal or 
alleviation of which a change to localities where 
these causes can be, in great measure, obviated, 
is most likely to prove cflicacious. 

But the directly exciting causes, depending 
upon the state of the atmosplicre, and other 
physical deleterious agencies, would, in many 
cases, be insufficient for the production of 
disease, were it not tliat tlie body is frociuently 
rendered more susceptible to be aftV>(lcd by 



310 APPENDIX. 

them from predisposing causes of various kinds, 
which, being slow and gradual in their action, 
seldom attract attention ; and their avoidance or 
removal (even when practicable) is consequently 
too often neglected, till the general health has 
become materially impaired. A too sedentary 
mode of life, and the want of proper and daily 
walking exercise, is a common predisposing 
cause of disease, whence the free circulation is 
impeded, and a congestive state of particular 
organs is induced, with a deficiency of blood in 
others, and consequently an arrest or alteration 
of various secretions. Few persons who take 
regular and sufficient walking exercise are sub- 
ject to cold feet, which is so common a complaint 
among females in the higher ranks of life. The 
want of due expansion of the lungs in inspira- 
tion, which is also a consequence of sedentary 
habits and of tight lacing, not unfrequently pre- 
disposes to diseases of these organs, especially to 
consumption, the tendency to which has in 
several cases been removed by exercise, which 
brings the muscles of respiration into action, as 
rowing, the use of dumb-bells, &c. Anything 
which lowers the powers of the system, as 
dissipation, fatigue, a diet of an improper or a 
too exciting nature, renders the body more liable 
to be affected by deleterious external agencies. 
Anxiety, disappointment, and other distressing 
moral influences, act in the same way, and these 
causes are more frequently instrumental in the 



\ 



APPENDIX. 311 

production of disease than is generally supposed. 
Hence, travelling tends materially to prevent or 
counteract the operation of the above-mentioned 
causes ; and the greater facility and mducements 
offered, in most of the places of resort on the 
continent, for being more out of doors than in 
England, conduces to the same end. The cheer- 
ing influence upon the mind of clear skies and 
sunshine in winter; the interest excited by 
scenery of a novel and magnificent character, or 
by works of art, &c., are powerfully calculated 
to divert the mind from dwelling upon impleasant 
or gloomy ideas, and consequently to procure 
the removal of many diseases, especially when 
induced by, or connected with, circumstances of 
a mental nature. On this principle, travel and 
change of air were not unfrequently recom- 
mended in the earlier periods of history, and 
their influence is thus aUuded to by Shakspearc, 
with reference to Hamlet's malady : — 

" Ilaply the seas and countries dilTcrcnt, 
With variable objects, shall expel 
This something settled matter in his heart, 
Whereon his brain, still beating, puts him thus 
From fashion of himself." 

Some diseases, however, even when of a 
chronic nature, and induced by the action of 
the above-mentioned predisposing and exciting 
causes, would not be alleviated by change of 
climate, which requires much discrimination, and 
consideration of tlie circiimslauces in iiHli\i(lu;il 



312 APPENDIX. 

cases, not only with respect to the choice of 
localities for a temporary residence, but also as 
to whether the case be one which admits of 
being benefited by removal from home; and 
before the subject of climate was so well under- 
stood as at present, numerous invalids were sent 
abroad, who should never have quitted their 
homes, and many were recommended to places 
perhaps the least adapted to their cases. In 
some, again, the excitement and inconveniences 
attendant upon travelling, and the separation 
from friends, would more than counterbalance 
the advantages of climate, which, as Sir James 
Clarke justly remarks, in his standard work, is 
not to be considered in the light of a specific 
remedy, but is chiefly beneficial by its placing 
persons in the most favourable situation for the 
removal of their disease. " All," says Sir James, 
" is trusted to the air, relaxation from business 
or amusements, and when these are withdrawn, 
the dyspeptic and nervous invalids lapse rapidly 
into their former state." Other remedial means 
are consequently required, in the majority of 
cases, to be conjoined with climate, for the 
complete cure of several diseases, as the judi- 
cious employment of medicines, and of mineral 
waters and baths during the summer months. 
The latter class of remedial agents is especially 
calculated to remedy visceral obstructions and 
congestions, and to prepare the way for the 
invalid's subsequently obtaining the full amount 



APPENDIX. 313 

of benefit which climate is capable of affording, 
and without the previous employment of which 
climate would often produce only a temporary 
advantage. The combined influence of these 
powerful remedial agents (mineral waters and 
climate), by their gradual and alterative opera- 
tion, is eminently adaj^ted to the treatment of a 
large proportion of chronic diseases, and is much 
more likely to effect their permanent removal than 
the employment of pharmaceutical measui'es. 

Having already endeavoured to indicate in 
general terms the diseases to which I consider 
particular localities best adapted, I will in this 
j^lace merely subjoin a few additional remarks on 
them. 

Diseases or the Lungs and Air-passages. — 
The quality of the air which is inspired into the 
lungs is a point of as much consequence in 
clironic pulmonary affections as would be that 
of the aliment introduced into the stomach when 
this organ is in a cUseased state ; and unless a 
circumstance of such paramount importance be 
attended to in the treatment of these affections, 
the powers of medicine will frequently be of 
little avail, or will only be capable of alleviating 
urgent symptoms ; though it not unfrcqucntly 
happens that, by a too exclusive reliance upon 
tliem, diseases which might have been cured by 
the change from a vitiated to a purer atmo- 
sphere, combined with a proper regimen, become 
irremediable, and recourse is liad to climate as 



314 . APPENDIX. 

a last resource, when it is but too obvious that 
medicine is powerless in arresting their progress. 
This remark more especially applies to consump- 
tion, which occasions annually so great a mor- 
tality among all classes in Great Britain, but 
which may often be effectually checked in its 
earliest stage — especially among those individuals 
who have the means of selecting or changing 
their place of residence, as circumstances may 
require — ^by a suitable winter climate, regimenal 
and medicinal management. When the disease 
is fully confirmed, and attended with its more 
characteristic symptoms, little or no permanent 
benefit can be reasonably expected from climate, 
and a long land journey would be decidedly 
prejudicial. Under these circumstances, there 
are several places in England where as much 
benefit may frequently be obtained as from the 
climates of the continent. Thus, in pulmonary 
diseases attended with much excitement and 
general irritability of the vascular system, the 
warm and humid atmosphere of Devonshire 
would probably be the best adapted to the case, 
or the more sheltered parts of Clifton, Undercliff, 
or Hastings ; while, in those cases where there 
is less susceptibility to cold air and a more 
torpid circulation, the higher localities of Clifton 
— Brighton in the early part of the winter — or 
St. Leonard's near Hastings, might be preferable. 
In many cases, again, especially in the early 
stages of this disease, great advantage, if not a 



ArrENDix. 315 

permanent cure, may be obtained by a sea 
voyage, and by the climate of Madeira, which 
also, in the more advanced stages, holds out, 
perhaps, a greater prospect of life being pro- 
longed for a few months than any other locality, 
though, under these circumstances, it would 
scarcely be advisable to recommend a removal 
from home, and separation from friends. Dr. 
Mason, one of the resident physicians, says of 
Maderia, that it possesses " many of the charac- 
teristic peculiarities of a tropical climate, without 
being baneful or fatal to health, like the West 
Indies. The mean temperature of the year is 
higher than the temperature of summer in 
England, wliile the temperature of the seasons 
is very equable and only oscillates from 59 to 69 
deg., or, according to other observations, from 
62 to 73 deg. Fahrenheit."* Maderia, therefore, 
would, on account of the warmth and fineness of 
the weather in winter, the equableness of its 
temperature, and comparative freedom from cold 
winds, be the most advantageous locality abroad 
for the majority of consumptive patients, who 
must, for the most part, make up their minds to 
residing on the island throughout the year, or, 
should they go to England for a few weeks in 
the summer, to return on the approach of winter, 
as a climate of this kind would have the effect 
of rendering those accustomed to it, like a hot- 
house plant, extremely susceptible to the atmo- 

* Medical Aluuuack ibr 1839. 



316 APPENDIX, 

spherical variations in other parts. It would, 
therefore, be advisable, even when a complete 
cure appears to have been effected at Madeira, 
that the person should pass a winter at Pau, 
Rome, or Nice, according to circumstances, and 
taking precautions to guard against the transi- 
tions of temperature, previous to wintering in 
England, When there is merely a general 
delicacy of the constitution, with a predisposition 
to consumption from hereditary tendency, or a 
strumous diathesis, Nice, Pisa, Rome, Naples, or 
Malta, would often be preferable to Madeira, 
The above remarks are also applicable to affec- 
tions of the bronchia and larynx, which are 
sometimes difficult to be distinguished from 
phthisis, even with the aid of auscultation and 
percussion, I need not, therefore, add anything 
further to what has been already said respecting 
them, except that in many cases of pulmonary 
and bronchial disease the use of the mineral 
waters of Cauterets, Eaux Bonnes, Ems, Weil- 
bach, Selters, &c,, in the summer, will be 
attended with the greatest advantage. 

Disorders of the Digestive Apparatus. — 
These affections, in the different varieties which 
they present, are for the most part, when of long 
duration, capable of being materially benefited 
by climate, especially when preceded or accom- 
panied by a course of mineral waters. When 
indigestion depends upon an irritable state of 
the alimentary canal, with a tendency to inflam- 



APPENDIX. 317 

matory action, by bathing in and drinking a 
slightly mineralized thermal water (as Baden, 
Wildbad, Schlangenbad, or St. Sauveur), during 
part of the summer, and subsequently repairing 
to Pau, Rome, Florence, or Pisa, for the winter, 
a perfect cure, or at all events a considerable 
degree of amelioration, may be looked for in 
most cases. Where there exists principally a 
morbid susceptibility of the nerves of the 
stomach and bowels, the above-mentioned or 
similar waters may likewise be recommended in 
some cases; in others, more benefit will be 
derived from an alkaline water, as Ems, or even 
from a light chalybeate. In those cases where 
the chief defect is a want of tone of the digestive 
organs, as frequently occurs in elderly people, 
and also in some young ones, the waters of 
Wiesbaden or Ems, or the cold acidulous and 
tonic ones of Kissingen, Fachingen, Bruckenau, 
or Schwalbach, according to circumstances, 
and the climates of Nice, Florence, or Naples, 
will generally be attended with the most advan- 
tageous results. In most disorders of the diges- 
tive organs, the moral influence of travelling 
through interesting countries, and the mind 
being exempted from anxiety and the cares of 
avocation (which perhaps were mainly instru- 
mental in causing or prolonging them), ^\\\\ 
likewise produce a most beneficial effbct. 

Old East or West Indians, or other persons 
whose health has been deteriorated by a residence 



318 APPENDIX. 

in unhealthy climates, though they may not be 
labouring under actual disease of any particular 
organs, wiU mostly derive great advantage from 
a course of mineral waters, and wintering in 
Italy, before residing in England. I have known 
several who have returned from India, and 
whose health has become seriously impaired, 
which I consider to be in great measure owing 
to the sudden change from the climate and 
mode of living of India to those of England, 
which persons in advanced life, or in an impaired 
state of health, are ill calculated to bear. Such 
persons will frequently find the advantage of 
becoming acclimated to Europe, by passing the 
first winter or two in the south. 

Hypochondriasis is closely allied with derange- 
ment of some part of the apparatus of digestion, 
of which it is in many instances a consequence, 
though not unfrequently a cause of such derange- 
ment, and occasionally exists independently of 
it. Hence the divisions of this complaint into 
the material and the nervous, which require a 
different mode of treatment, though climate pro- 
duces an advantageous influence on both. In 
the former kind, medicinal means to remedy 
existing local disorder require to be adopted. 
Of the mineral waters best calculated for this 
purpose, I may mention Carlsbad, Mariensbad, 
Wiesbaden, Homburg, Kissingen, or Leamington, 
employed according as circumstances in indi- 
vidual cases may indicate; and this class of 



APPENDIX. 319 

remedies is better adapted for the treatment of 
tills complaint than medicines, inasmuch as their 
operation is general, without over-stimulating 
particular organs, (which is very commonly the 
case in the exhibition of drugs), and the medi- 
cinal action is combined with the effects on the 
mind, produced by novelty of situation, change 
of air and mode of living, amusements, &c. In 
the purely nervous kind of h^^ochondiiasis, 
where the disordered digestion appears to be a 
consequence of the morbid susceptibility of the 
nervous system, the cold w^aters of Marienbad or 
Kissingen, in some cases ; Fachingen, Bruckenau, 
and other chalybeates, in others, will be more 
applicable than the thermal springs; and the 
climates of Nice, Naples, Malta, or Pau, will 
generally be found to be productive of great 
advantage. Pau or Rome, for a short period, 
will sometimes be better than Nice or Naples, in 
the first variety of the complaint, especially if 
there be much general excitability of the system. 
This class of patients will, however, frequently 
derive more benefit by passing the winter 
between two or three of the above-mentioned 
places, than by remaining several months in any 
one of them. 

Gout and Rheumatism arc, perhaps, more 
than any other class of diseases, capable of being 
relieved by climate, subsequent to the proper 
employment of baths of thermal water. I have 
had several opportunities during the last few 



320 APPENDIX. 

years of seeing persons labouring under that 
disease derive the greatest advantage from these 
last-mentioned remedies, which has been partly 
or altogether lost by their passing the subsequent 
winter in England or Ireland, and exposure to a 
cold and humid climate ; though in many cases, 
on the other hand, the advantage has been per- 
manent, notwithstanding these drawbacks. By 
a warm winter climate, the effect of the baths is, 
in fact, in great measure kept up till the ensuing 
summer, or at all events it is not counteracted 
by the impression of a cold and damp atmosphere 
upon the lungs and skin; though perhaps a 
greater degree of precaution is required on the 
part of invalids, with respect to regimen, and 
guarding against the transitions of temperature, 
in the south of Europe than in Great Britain. 
Gouty patients, when of an irritable habit, or 
where there is much tendency to inflammatory 
attacks, will generally find Pau or Rome agree 
better with them than either Nice or Naples, 
which, however, will be best adapted to certain 
other cases, where these counter-indicating cir- 
cumstances do not exist. Rheumatic patients 
will often be benefited by passing November, 
December, and January, at either of the last- 
mentioned towns. They should, however, remove 
before the spring winds set in. For many of 
these patients Pau would not be so eligible, on 
account of its comparative humidity, neither would 
a prolonged sojourn at Rome be advisable. 



APPENDIX. 321 

Tic and Neuralgic; Affections mil likewise 
be frequently removed by a course of treatment 
similar to that above recommended, combined 
with local water or vapour douches. It is 
especially important in these cases to guard 
against exposure either to the heat of the sun, 
to cold winds, or to the night air, which are 
frequently instrumental in inducing a recui-rence 
of the attacks. Nice or Naples may be recom- 
mended in some of these cases ; in others these 
climates woidd be too exciting, and Pau or Pisa 
woidd suit better. A prolonged residence at 
Rome would often be prejudicial, but a visit for 
a few weeks might in some instances be made 
with advantage. Florence, in November and the 
beginning of December, would not be objection- 
able in most cases. 

Paralysis. — The paralysis dependent upon 
apoplectic attacks, though, perhaps, not capable 
of being removed by climate or mineral waters, 
any more than by other remedial means, may 
yet frequently be relieved by these measures, and 
some of the distressing symptoms concomitant 
upon it may be essentially mitigated. For the 
cure and relief of some other kinds of paralysis, 
however, remedies of this kind are peculiarly 
adapted, and not unfrequently succeed when all 
else has failed to render effectual service. When 
paralysis of a part supervenes upon repeated 
attack of gout or rheumatism, from exposure to 
wet, fiom over-excitement consequent on ex- 

Y 



322' * APPENDIX, 

cesses, from the action of malaria, &c., there is 
great probability of recovery from the judicious 
employment of these means, according to the 
peculiar circumstances in individual cases. In 
some cases Rome would be the preferable place 
for a winter residence, though not when there 
exists a tendency to determination of blood to 
the head, or in persons of a full habit ; in some 
cases Pan or Pisa would agree better than 
Pome ; to others, again, Nice, Naples, or Malta, 
would be better suited. 

Scrofula. — In this disease, or the tendency to 
it, marked by languor and torpor of the general 
system, debility, pallid unhealthy countenance, 
distension of the superficial veins, swelled glands, 
impaired digestion, &c., the influence of climate 
will be strongly marked. It is well known to 
most practitioners in Great Britain, where stru- 
mous affections are so common, that the great 
majority of such patients get better in the 
summer, but become worse in winter, notwith- 
standing the most approved methods of treat- 
ment; that these afl'ections are principally met 
with in their aggravated forms in cold and 
humid localities, and among the poorer classes, 
who live upon coarse and frequently unwhole- 
some food, and are indiff'erently protected by 
their houses and clothing from the vicissitudes 
of the weather. Among the children who work 
in the close and impure air of manufactories in 
some of the large towns, this disease is almost 



APPENDIX. 323 

endemic. Hence it may be supposed that climate 
is calculated to exert the greatest influence over 
it. In that form of the disease which is accom- 
panied by general lassitude, torpor, and debility, 
languid circulation and digestion, enlarged glands 
of the mesentery or neck, yielding of the bones, 
&c., a somewhat exciting and dry climate, like 
Nice or Naples, would be most likely to be 
productive of advantage ; but in those persons 
of fair florid complexion, quick irritable habit, 
and accelerated circulation, the above-mentioned 
localities would very likely disagree, and Pan, 
Rome, or Pisa, according to circumstances, would 
be preferable, particularly if there should be 
cough or other symptoms of pulmonary disease, 
in which case Madeira would also be likely to 
render serAT.ce. 

Elderly people, who are approaching, or who 
have passed, the grand climacteric, in whom 
there is a general failure of the powers of the 
system, will frequently derive the greatest advan- 
tage from mineral waters in the summer months, 
and an habitual residence in a southern climate 
in the Avinter, where they can enjoy the revivify- 
ing influence of the sun's rays, and take exercise 
out of doors almost daily. Rome generally agrees 
well with old people, if not liable to head affec- 
tions. Florence has also its advantages for those 
who are not much affected by the atmospherical 
vicissitudes, its climate being more bracing than 
Rome. Naples, again, when not too (^xciting, 



324 APPENDIX. 

will be preferable in some instances, and Pan 
might suit several of those who would rather 
reside in France. The climate of Tours is 
likewise good, though colder and more variable 
than the south. But most persons, after having 
resided for a short period at any of the above- 
mentioned places, would be able to ascertain, by 
their own feelings, whether the climate were 
suited to them. 

Nervous Disorders.' — The advantage of tra- 
velling and climate in this class of complaints 
will scarcely be questioned by those who have 
had much opportunity of seeing how frequently 
they resist the efforts of medicine, and the great 
influence exerted over them by different states 
of the atmosphere. In some of these disorders, 
where, combined with a state of generally dis- 
ordered health, there exists habitual depression 
of spirits, the brilliant skies, magnificent scenery, 
and animation of Naples, would be most likely 
to procure their removal: Nice would likewise 
be an advantageous locality for two or three 
months; or even Florence, which offers more 
resources for amusement, would not be objection- 
able. Pisa would not be recommendable, on 
account of its dulness, unless, perhaps, in some 
cases where there existed a morbid excitability 
of the system, in which also Pan would not be 
a bad locality. Rome would in most nervous 
complaints be objectionable for a prolonged 
sojourn, though there are exceptions, and a visit 



APPENDIX. 325 

of a few weeks will generally be productive of 
advantage to those who have never been there, 
or who take great interest in its ruins, or works 
of art, by which the mind may be beneficially 
diverted. In some cases of nervousness, which a 
long residence in Italy would tend to increase, 
the passing a winter at Munich will be bene- 
ficial, especially to those with whom a cold 
bracing air is likely to agree. Nearer home 
Wiesbaden would not be a bad winter locality 
for these, and some of the other complaints 
mentioned, where the baths might also be em- 
ployed with advantage. 

The diversion of the mind is a great point 
in these affections; hence travelling, and the 
moving from one place to another without hurry 
or fatigue, will frequently be more beneficial 
than residing for several months together in one 
place. In that class of nervous complaints to 
which I have endeavoured more particularly to 
direct the attention of the profession,* I have 
frequently had occasion to observe the great 
influence of moral and mental impression both 
in their production and removal, and the inefh- 
cacy of a treatment purely medicinal. Many of 
these complaints are, in fact, not unfrequently 
kept up for a long period, from the effect of 
habit, and from the patient's attention being 
concentrated u[)on th(>in ; any measures, tliere- 
fore, which tend to break th(» chain of liabitual 

* Treatise ou Homc Nervous Disorders. Scooucl Edition. 



326 APPENDIX,. 

thought will be most influential in their re- 
moval. 

Women, it is well known, being endowed 
with a more finely-organised nervous system, 
and a greater degree of susceptibility, are much 
more liable than men to the difi'erent varieties of 
nervous disorder. But we see that some classes 
of women are comparatively exempt from these 
disorders, and also that some individuals of the 
higher and middle classes are not only more 
subject to them, but also to other deranged 
conditions of their health, which not unfre- 
quently lay the foundation for consumption and 
other organic diseases ; or, even if they do not 
actually shorten life, tend to deprive it of enjoy- 
ment. This tendency to disease depends, it is 
true, in some instances, upon natural weakness 
and delicacy, but it is likewise frequently 
acquired by the mode of life and education, by 
which the natural susceptibility to external 
influences is greatly increased. I have already 
alluded in a cursory manner to some of the pre- 
disposing causes of disease of a physical and 
moral nature; but with regard to the latter — 
Avhich I consider to be more frequently instru- 
mental in the production of disease among the 
upper classes of the community than is generally 
imagined — let us look a little higher in the scale 
of causation, in order to see how far the conse- 
quences, which numberless families have every 
year occasion to deplore, may admit of preven- 



ArpENDix. 327 

tion, which should be as much the object of tlie 
practitioner of medicine as the alleviation of 
disease when actually existing, the more espe- 
cially as the scope of continental travel, one of 
the most efficient of these means of alleviation, 
is likely to be circumscribed for some time. 

The influence of causes of a mental nature in 
predisposing to and in the production of many 
distressing diseases (though more than ever 
exerted at the present day), has not received 
from medical practitioners the degree of atten- 
tion which its importance requires; hence a 
reason of the intractability of several of them 
under a purely medicinal treatment; and this 
influence will be the more felt in proportion as 
certain faculties are unduly exercised, and as 
others more conducive to the welfare are either 
allowed to remain inactive or their natural ten- 
dency to activity is repressed ; and in proportion 
as individuals are endowed with a greater share 
of mental capabilities and sensitiveness of feeling, 
which have not remained undeveloped or become 
blunted by the necessity of manual labour for 
earning a livelihood, will the want of fit objects 
whereon to exercise these capabilities and 
feelings be more forcibly experienced. The 
mind, if not fed with adequate nourishment, will 
frequently prey upon itself, and induce a dis- 
ordered state of its powers or of the bodily 
functions. 



328 APPENDIX. 

The English are endowed perhaps more than 
any other people with the combination of 
corporeal perfections and of mental capabilities 
of the highest order, which were never intended 
to lie fallow, for 

"Sure, He that made us with such large discourse. 
Looking before and after, gave us not 
Tliat God-like capability and power 
To rust in us iinus'd." 

And, as our immortal bard in another place 
further observes — 

" Spirits are not finely touch'd 
But to fine issues :* nor nature never lends 
The smallest scruple of her excellence, 
But, like a thrifty goddess, she determines 
Herself the glory of a creditor, 
Both thanks and use." 

Hence those capabilities and sentiments which 
form part of our nature, and which, when pro- 
perly directed and employed, conduce to our 
well-being, may become, by neglect or misdirec- 
tion, the sources of wretchedness and disease. 

" An honorable and serious object of activity," 
says the author of a work of great interest, 
" preserves man from idleness and ennui, the 
source of numerous affective and intellectual 
disorders. Habits result from it which, excluding 
frivolous or guilty desires, prevent disappoint- 
ments, satiety, and insatiability. Without a 
constant object of activity man is delivered up, 

* For high purposes. — Measure for Measure. 



APPENDIX. 329 

body and soul, to external influences, and to the 
capricious appeals of his nervous organism. 

" The more the object of activity is moral and 
elevated, the more powerful will be the action 
which it exercises upon the system. If it be a 
scientific discovery useful to society, all the 
sensorial and intellectual aptitudes, which may 
concur towards the realisation of the object, will 
be particularly solicited and developed in such a 
manner as to act with increasmg energy and 
fiicility. If the object of activity be to raise up a 
family in the world, to adorn it Avith all the 
qualities which may cause it to prosper in the 
paths of virtue and honorable exertion, the care 
of education, and the solicitude of a profession, 
will divide the solicitude of the parents. If, on 
the other hand, the object of activity of a man 
or woman be the success of a dramng-room, the 
attaining a reputation for wit or beauty, or the 
receiving flattery and homage, the result will 
be an existence in which the most trifling and 
inevitable causes will occasion unhappincss and 
despair. 

" How many persons are there who voluntarily 
inflict upon themselves the torments of inaction 
and the pains of an agitation without an object ^ 
There are some at whose feet society com- 
placently lays the power and means of action, 
the instruction and the encouragement best 
fitted to direct their activity towards the conquest 
of an honorable and serious object, and A\hom 



^30 APPENDIX. 

their education gives up without pity to all the 
ennui, all the vicissitudes, all the torments of 
idleness! They can only avoid the sufferings 
which oppress them by abandoning to circum- 
stances, or to their own inclinations, the charge 
of giving rise to a frivolous and dangerous object 
of activity. It then happens that they escape for 
a brief period from the pains of ennui, in order 
to plunge into the abyss of passions, in which 
are often swallowed up at the same time fortune, 
health, honour, and reason. It is thus that a 
great number of affective and intellectual dis- 
orders, which are ascribed by practitioners to 
the empire of the passions, accuse, beyond these 
passions and the neglect of education, a cause 
more distant and more deeply hidden."* 

If this be to a certain extent the case in 
France, how much more must it not be so in 
this country, where the causes are more gene- 
rally operative 1 

One of the most popular authors of the dayf 
repeats an opinion which is very generally enter- 
tained, viz., that there is a greater decree of 
discontent among the rich classes in England 
than those of any other nation, which he con- 
siders to depend upon the circumstance of 
" eager minds being placed in a dull and in&ipid 
circle, whence arises the desultory love of travel, 

* Des Fonctions et Maladies Nerveiises dans leur Rapports avec 
rEdiication. Par le Dr. Cerise. 

t Sir Bulwer Lytton — " England and the English." 



APPENDIX. 331 

for which the English liavc long been remark- 
able." To the same cause is doubtless attribut- 
able those disturbances of the public peace, 
formerly of such frequent occurrence, and duly 
chronicled in the poUce reports, under tlie head 
of " gentlemanly amusements ;" and m fact, from 
the causes already referred to, the Englishman 
makes a very bad idler, and can seldom, like the 
Italian, 

" Lose and neglect the creeping hours of time," 

existing on the " far niente " principle, without 
experiencing, one w^ay or another, the prejudicial 
consequences of a want of occupation. To 
this eagerness and activity of mind, combined 
mth resolution and perseverance, is owing the 
spirit of enterprise and daring by which the 
British are characterized, Avhich has mainly con- 
tributed to render them pre-eminently successful 
in war, foremost in the advancement and perfec- 
tion of arts, sciences, commerce, and industry; 
and consequently to raise our country to the 
high position in the scale of nations which she 
has so long occupied, and must continue to 
occupy — 

" If England to herself do rest but true." 

Most persons who have at all considered 
the subject in an unprejudiced manner will, 1 
think, be disposed to admit that the methods 
hitherto adopted in educating a large pro[)ortion 
pf the higher and middle classes are far from 



332 APPENDIX. 

being calculated to fulfil the objects which con- 
stitute the proper aim of education (viz., the full 
development of the bodily, moral, and intellectual 
faculties), and not unfrequently have an opposite 
tendency. How often has it not happened, as 
a consequence of the system which has been 
pursued at some of our public schools, and at 
the universities, that the exercise of the finest 
qualities of the soul is repressed, and that of the 
mental powers contracted; and hence the defi- 
ciency of general information is not unfrequently 
painfully felt by young men on entering the world, 
leading many of them to think with Montaigne, 
that " C'est un bel et grand agencement sans 
doute, que le Grec, et le Latin, mais on I'achete 
trop cher," and to feel in after life that if a more 
intimate acquaintance with history, various de- 
partments of science and art, modern languages, 
literature, &c., had been cultivated in youth, 
they would possess a variety of resources within 
themselves, which would enable them to resist 
the approaches of ennui, without having recourse 
to means of excitement which enervate the body 
and mind, and rarely fail to induce a correspond- 
ing degree of subsequent depression.* There 
are other powerful reasons (which are every year 

* This great error in the system of education pursued at our public 
schools was soon perceived by an illustrious personage, who could not 
fail to observe the contrast with respect to the degree of inforraatioa 
possessed by the young men of his native and those of his adopted 
country, and who, not long after his arrival, gave a very strong hint to 
this effect by establishing at Eton an annual prize for proficiency m 



APPENDIX. 333 

becoming more .apparent) strongly indicating tlie 
necessity of a more extended system of edncation 
— such as the universal diffusion of information 
of a general and practical nature among the 
inferior classes ; the present disturbed state of 
Europe (which sooner or later must produce its 
effects upon this country), &c., into the considera- 
tion of which it word-d be foreign to the purpose 
to enter ; my object being in this place merely to 
state my con\iction, that the too exclusive atten- 
tion bestowed in our public schools and univer- 
sities upon matters in which few young people 
take any interest, and which have no reference 
to what is going on in the world around us, is 
an indirect cause of much of the discontent and 
ill health which affects many of those who have 
no fixed and regular occupation for their time, 
by leaving them in after life devoid of mental 
resources. 

There are, it is true, exceptions sufficiently 
numerous to retrieve, in some measure, the 
character of the English among other nations, 
with respect to the variety and solidity of infor- 
mation upon general subjects; but these are 
entirely owing to individual energy and exertion, 
tending to make up for lost time, and from the 
necessity of such information being apparent to 

modern languages, wliicli has uitico, to a certain extent, been acted upon. 
The election of the Prince to the Chancellorship of the University of 
Cambridge will, it is thought, likewise have a most beneficial effect in 
improving the system hitherto pursued. 



3B4 APPENDIX. 

those who have a higher ambition than merely 
to vegetate through the period of their existence. 
Indeed, a very slight consideration will suffice 
to show that it is not surprising that a large 
proportion of those whose time has been chiefly 
engaged upon subjects in which no interest is 
felt, or has been frittered away in mere pleasure, 
should, when youth has faded (and sometimes 
before that period) find themselves unable to 
amuse or be amused without objects whereby to 
occupy the mind or to touch the heart, and that, 
having " felt the fullness of satiety," many should 
have to learn, from bitter experience, how com- 
monly it is — 

" The constant revolution, stale 
And tasteless of the same repeated joys 
That palls and satiates, and makes languid life 
A pedlar's pack that bows the bearer down. 
Health suffers, and the spirits ebb ; the heart 
Recoils from its own choice, at the full feast 
Is famished — finds no music in the song, 
No smartness in the jest, and wonders why." 

That this state, and the feeling of isolation 
which accompanies it, shoidd frequently induce 
various diseases is self-evident, and these seldom 
admit of more than palliation by medical treat- 
ment, unless the mind can be diverted, the habits 
changed, and a proper object of activity pursued; 
hence resource is frequently had to travelling, 
which is perhaps one of the most efficient means 
of relief, though often losing its efl'ect by 
repetition. 



APPENDIX. 335 

Another cause of the dissatisftiction and 
ennui which so frequently occur, and so com- 
monly terminate in disordered states of health, 
is the comparative unsociability of disposition 
which characterises many of the English, and 
which arises, in some instances, from a degree 
of natural bashfulness or reserve, but more 
frequently from the spirit of coterie, by which 
society is divided into a variety of gradations, 
separated from each other, and leading individuals 
to endeavour to outdo others in appearance, 
which may enable them to raise themselves a 
degree higher in the social scale, and to look 
down upon those whom they consider to be 
beneath them. Hence cordiality is banished, 
selfishness is encouraged, and by mixing only 
with one set of associates the ideas become 
circumscribed, and the powers of the intellect 
rusted.* 
With reference to the disposition to ostentation 

* This tendency to individual isolation is illustrated by the mode 
pursued in the clubs. These establishments were originally formed for 
purposes of sociability, but at the present day most of their members 
would prefer dining alone at a separate table on a steak to partaking of 
a properly served housodinner at the same price ; and if one were to 
address another, to whom he had not been introduced, on any common- 
place topic, it is not improbable that the answer would be abrupt and 
monosyllabic, discouraging any further intercourse. The same rule seems 
to obtain in all public places, and persons not unfrequcntly travel togetiicr 
for hours without speaking a word, as if an interchange of the ordinary 
courtesies of society were necessarily to entail upon any one the acquaint- 
ance of an objectionable character. As, however, " man was not born 
to live alone," this self-isolation is severely felt by many, producing ils 
prejudicial clTcctH upon the disposition and health. 



336 APPENDIX, 

and vying, when, as not unfrequently happens, 
the means are inadequate to its support. Dr. 
Cerise remarks : — " The false luxury of the rich 
becomes the real luxury of the poor, and in this 
dangerous career of imitation the necessary is 
often sacrificed to the superfluous. Hence the 
painful pre-occupations of misery concealed 
beneath gilded and silken trappings — a misery 
the more fruitful in painful agitations inasmuch 
as it decks itself the more with the externals 
of affluence, and apes with greater efforts the 
smile of happiness. Poverty which condemns 
itself to pay the tribute exacted from opulence 
is the most fruitful source of moral and physical 
sufferings. The social and private education 
which propagates so deplorable a passion is 
responsible for the numerous evils which result 
from it."* 

Lord Byron corroborates the preceding opinions 
by saying— 

" It need not cost much showing 
That many of the ills o'er which man grieves, 
And still more looman, come from not employing 
Some hours to make the remnant worth enjoying ; 
And hence high life is oft a dreary void, 
A rack of pleasures, &c." 

and, in fact, if the want of fit objects whereon 

* This is doubtless one of the causes which have tended to bring 
about the revolution in France, where, however, the above quotation 
•would at present be no longer applicable, as all are desirous of appearing 
poor, from the apprehension that those known to have property are likely 
to be severely mulcted to meet the exigencies of the state. 



APPENDIX. 837 

to exercise the foculties be the source of much 
of the unhappiness and ill health to which a 
proportion of the male population is liable, 
it certainly is no less so among females, by whom 
the consequences are much more severely felt, 
inasmuch as in England women are debarred 
by custom from taking an active interest in 
affairs, are exposed to chagrins and annoyances 
from which men are exempt, and, for the most 
part, lead an in-door life, by which their nervous 
susceptibility is exalted, which, combmed with 
the absence of regular occupation, tends to 
render many of them extremely liable to the 
encroaches of disease. The author of a popular 
work observes on this point, " The mtellect 
and feelings not being provided with interests 
external to themselves, must either become 
inactive and weak, or work upon themselves 
and become diseased. In the former case the 
mind becomes apathetic, and possesses no ground 
of sympathy with its fellow-creatures; in the 
latter, it becomes unduly sensitive, and shrinks 
within itself and its own limited circle, as its 
only protection against every trifling intrusion." 

An authoress, whose work has gone through 
numerous editions within a short period (which 
shows that the importance of the subject upon 
which she writes is strongly felt and appreciated), 
likewise says, "One of the most striking features 
in the character of the young ladies of the 
present day is the absence of contentment ; 



338 APPENDIX. 

tliey are lively when excited, but no sooner does 
the excitement cease than they fall back again 
into their habitual listlessness, under which they 
so often complain of their fate, and speak of 
themselves as unfortunate and afflicted, that one 
would suppose them to be the victims of adversity, 
did not a more intimate acquaintance with their 
actual circumstances convince us that they are 
surrounded by everything conducive to rational 
comfort." * 

The talented author of the article " Hysteria," in 
the "Cyclopaedia of Practical Medicine," observes, 
" In England, where an acute sensibility is less 
desired for young women than accurate powers 
of calculation, the improper expectations, the 
vain rivalries, the restless and frivolous pleasures 
of fashionable life, are but too well calculated 
to produce all the varieties of nervous disorders 
in young persons whom an affected refinement 
has debarred from active and natural exercises, 
and whose minds have never been subjected to 
the influence of self-control ; whilst the want 
of all love of literature, or acquaintance with 
science, and consequently of all companionable 
qualities of a higher kind, diffuses an ennui over 
society, that every one feels without thinking 
of its source, and by which the whole movable 
community is driven about from one place 
of public resort to another, without useful 
objects, without attachments, without duties ; 

* Ellis, " The Women of En^lana." 



APPENDIX. 339 

leading to the habitual neglect of all self- 
government, and the creation of much domestic 
MTetchedness." 

Dr. J. Johnson remarked on the same subject, 
" Few are acquainted, or are capable of becoming- 
acquainted, with the baneful consequences of 
this system ; but many are doomed to feel them. 
The poisoned arrow, in tliis case, leaves no 
wound, but the venom meanders slowly through 
the veins, and effects its destructive work unseen 
and unknown. What but evil can be expected 
from a system of education which enervates the 
mind and enfeebles the body — wdiich polishes 
the external senses, and leaves the intellect a 
prey to rust and moth — which excites the 
imagination and obtunds the judgment — which, 
to speak out plainly, fosters mere animal feeling, 
and discourages moral sense V The same author, 
in another of his works, further says, " Female 
education is indeed more detrimental to health 
and happiness than that of the male. Its grasp, 
its aim, is at accomplishments rather than 
acquirements — at gilding rather than gold — at 
such ornaments as may dazzle by their lustre, 
and consume themselves in a few years by the 
intensity of their own brightness, rather than 
those which radiate a steady light till the lamp 
of life is extinguished." -f- 

M. Aime Martin likewise observes, " Certainly 
if the life of wom(3n were to be restricted to 

* Change of Air. | Economy ol' llcaltlj. 



340 APPENDIX. 

exhibitions and fites — if their business were 
only to dazzle and to please — the great problem 
would be resolved by this education of soirees ; 
but the hours of pleasure are short, and in their 
train follow the hours of reflection. The life 
of home, moral life, the duties of mother and 
wife, all this comes, and all has been forgotten. 
Then they find themselves as in a void in the 
bosom of their families, with romantic passions, 
and unrestrained exaltation and ennui, that great 
destroyer of female virtue. The lamentation 
over the fatal consequences of this state of 
matters assail our ears on all sides : it is the cry 
of all mothers — the complaint of all husbands ; 
and in these painful straits, wherein each one 
is agitated and desponding, the worst efl"ect is 
that indifference terminates all."* 

" The great question with regard to modern 
education," says Mrs. Ellis, "is, which of these 
two classes of feelings does it instil into the 
mindl Does it inspire the young women of 
the present day with an amiable desire to make 
everybody happy around them, or does it teach 
them only to sing and play, and speak in foreign 
languages, and consequently leave them to be 
the prey of their own disappointed feelings 
whenever they find it impossible to make those 
qualifications tell upon society 1 " 

* "The Education of Mothers of Families," being the ^york to which the 
prize of the Frencli Academy was adjudged, translated from the third Paris 
edition, with Remarks on the Influence of the Prevailing ]\Ietliods of 
Education upon Health and Happiness. Whittaker and Co. 



APrENDIX. '14:1 

A popular author (Biihvcr) says, upon tlie 
same subject, " It seems odd enough to me, tliat 
while young ladies are so sedulously taught all 
the accomplishments which a husband disregards, 
they are never taught the great one he would 
prize — they are taught to be exhibitors : he 
wants a companion." 

Thus we may perceive how often the too 
exclusive reliance upon qualifications calculated 
merely to captivate the senses tends to produce 
the mescdUances, which are of such common 
occurrence. " II importe en amour," says a 
French authoress, in allusion to personal beauty, 
" que les impressions viennent des beautes 
morales, celles qui produisent les beautes 
physiques, s'effacent trop promptement." And 
the same sentiment has been aptly illustrated 
by the poet, in the simile with the boy and the 
butterfly — 

" The lovely toy, so fiercely sought, 
lias lost its charm by being caugiit, 
And every touch that wooed its stay 
lias brush'd its brightest hues away; 
Till charm, and hue, and beauty gone, 
'Tis left to fly or fall alone." 

For as it is in the nature of things that mere 
impressions upon the senses, if not varied, should 
be succeeded by satiety, it is not surprising 
indifference and inconstancy should so frequently 
supervene upon alliances contracted solely or 
chiefly with reference to sucli (lualificatitms, too 
o'Xqh verifying the allegory of the incompatibilit} 



342 APPENDIX. 

of the wings of Cupid with the fetters of 
Hymen. 

"Marriage is accused," further says M. Aime 
Martin, " of all the evils which I have sketched 
— an unjust accusation. Marriage is good ; it is 
our methods of education which are bad. What- 
ever, therefore, would amend these methods 
would render the state of marriage more happy. 
Examine the first choice of a young girl. 
Amongst all the qualities that please her in a 
lover, there is perhaps not one which would be 
suitable in a husband, and, in fact, she frequently 
notices little else of him than his figure, or the 
style of his dress. Is not this then the most 
complete condemnation of our system of educa- 
tion'? From an apprehension of too strongly 
affecting the heart, we conceal from women all 
that is worthy of love ; we sufi'er the sense of the 
beautiful which exists in them to be dispersed 
among futilities : the outside pleases them ; Avhat 
is within is unknown. When, therefore, after 
an union of six months, they look for the 
delightful young man whose presence charmed 
them, they are often very much surprised to find 
in his stead an impertinent fellow or a fool; yet 
this is what is commonly termed in the world a 
marriage of inclination." 

" Les hommes seront toujours ce qu'il plaira 
aux femmes. Si vous voulez qu'ils deviennent 
grands et vertueux, apprenez aux femmes ce que 
c'est grandeur et vertu," says Jean Jacques 



APPENDIX. 313 

Rousseau, and, in fact, men receive their first 
impressions and ideas, which generally give a 
bias to their character in life, from their mothers, 
who have the charge of their early education ; 
and that the influence of women in the social 
scale, which so greatly contributes to the civiliza- 
tion and happiness of mankind, is necessarily 
dependent upon the degree of cultivation of the 
intellectual and moral qualities, is abundantly 
proved by the contrast presented in the condition 
of difl'erent communities, and even by that of 
different families in the same community, accord- 
ing as the women are possessed of information 
and a due sense of moral obligations, or are 
deficient in these respects. Look at the state 
of the peasantry and labouring classes in different 
countries, or even in different districts of the 
same country ! Wherever you see the men 
brutalized, and void of religious or moral prin- 
ciple, you may be pretty sure there is a want of 
a proper controlling influence of the women, 
Avho not unfrcquently participate in tlie general 
demoralization. Contrast also the position, in 
this res23ect, of the more civilized countries of 
Europe with that of eastern countries, wlun-e 
M omen are considered only as " materials for 
pleasure." The Turk or Asiatic lc>ads a purely 
animal existence, and dreams of little else than 
sensual gratiflcations, to which also he is led to 
look up as the source of ]ia])piHoss in a future 
life; but which, even supi)osing the perpclual 



344 APPENDIX. 

absence of the " dull satiety which all destroys," 
would be insufficient for an intellectual being, 
who cannot but feel that — 

" Or bathed in bliss, or overwhelmed with woe, 
The heart will still require a kindred heart. 
Divided joy bids double joy o'erflow, 
And pain divided loses half its smart." * 

The preceding extracts from medical and non- 
medical authors may suffice to exhibit a more 
just view of the pernicious effects so commonly 
consequent upon the usual system of education, 
I will, therefore, conclude by referring those who 
are desirous of pursuing the subject to the work 
of M. Aime Martin. 

A reason why marriages either of inclination 
or convenance, or w^hen contracted for the reason 
(which is by no means the least frequent) 
expressed by the King in the opera of the 
Cenerentola — 

" Che a star solo s'annoio," 

to decide upon entering the holy state — when 
not followed by domestic happiness, should be 
more frequently attended by a disordered state 
of the health of women in England than in some 
other countries, will, I think, be sufficiently 
obvious. In France and Italy, young girls pass 
for the most part a secluded sort of life, and are 
generally anxious to be married, as the means 
which will enable them to enter into and have a 
position in society, frequently without being 

* Irauslated from Goethe. 



APPENDIX. 3-A5 

very particular as to the individual who is 
presented to them as their future husband ; 
whereas, in England, young ladies are frequently 
made the idols of society, enjoying all its plea- 
sures before marriage, and have, or are supposed 
to have, a free choice in the acceptation or 
refusal of those who aspire to be their husbands, 
and after that event retire into the comparative 
seclusion of domestic life ; when, if unhappy in 
their choice, or if not possessed of sufficient 
resources for occupation and amusement, they 
are apt to fall into low spirits, and to reflect with 
bitterness on the contrast which its monotony 
presents to their former mode of existence, 

" When life itself was new, 
And the heart promised what the fancy drew." 

Not but that the pleasures of general society, 
which are at first so attractive, are often felt 
after a few seasons to be extremely monotonous, 
even if they do not become actually distasteful, 
though perhaps they are still continued from 
habit, or from having nothing else to do. " Les 
festins, les danses, les mascarades," says Mon- 
taigne, " rejouissent ceulx qui ne les veoyent pas 
souvent, et qui ont desire de les veoir; mais a 
qui en faict ordinaire le goust en devient fade et 
malplaisant. (iui nc se donne loisir d'a\oir soif, 
ne s^auroit prendre plaisir a boire."* 

If this be frequently th(> case under ordinary 

* Essaiij. 



346 APPENDIX. 

circumstances, among those who are compara- 
tively free from cares, and who have " all 
appliances and means to boot," how much more 
so must it be with others, when there are super- 
added the various positive causes of mental 
annoyance which are sometimes concealed be- 
neath smiling countenances in the glittering 
saloon, and which it is unnecessary further to 
particularize ! 

I have thus enumerated some of the more 
frequent causes of a mental origin which pre- 
dispose to disease, but there are others which 
might have been mentioned, and which, as well 
as the above, if not altogether peculiar to 
England, are at all events productive of more 
serious consequences than elsewhere; and the 
influence of these causes will be quite suflicient 
to account for the greater degree of discontent, 
ennui, and ill health, without the necessity of 
our ascribing these efi'ects to our variable climate, 
thick foggy atmosphere, &c. These, it is true, 
are not unfrequently the exciting causes of 
disease, but, were it not for the others, which 
render the body more liable to be aiFected, their 
sphere of operation woidd be infinitely more 
circumscribed. This is shown to be the case by 
the comparative freedom of some classes, who 
lead regulated lives, and are engaged in pursuits 
which are sufficient to occupy their time without 
being attended Avith nuich anxiety, from several 
diseases which are extremely prevalent among 



ArrENDix. 3-47 

other classes. The climates of Holland, and of 
many parts of Germany, arc mnch worse than 
ours, and yet the ^^roportion of several diseases 
and disordered states of health, which are so 
prevalent among the upper and middle classes — 
especially females — in England, is infinitely 
smaller among the higher classes of these 
countries, because their education and mode of 
life are different from ours. The variableness 
of our climate is, in fact, as has already been 
observed, more favourable to health and exertion 
than the reverse, for persons in good health ; 
but it does not follow from this that a change to 
another climate woid^d not often be beneficial, 
or that it is not frequently indispensable for 
invalids. 

As far as beauties of scenery, natural curi- 
osities, and other objects calculated to restore 
the health, by diverting the mind, are concerned, 
the British Isles possess equal advantages with 
many parts of the Continent; and less of the 
inconveniences of travelling will generally be 
experienced in excursions to several of the 
localities most visited by tourists in England, 
AVales, Scotland, or Ireland, than on the Con- 
tinent, though these inconveniences are not 
unfrequently greatly instrumental in the attain- 
ment of the object which is sought for; and 
when the mind is agreeably excited, travelling has 
also the effect of rendering the body much less 
susceptible to external iniluences, which, under 



348 APPENDIX. 

other circumstances, would often be severely 
felt. I have known several persons in delicate 
health, who when stationary at home were 
extremely liable to be affected by slight changes 
of the weather, and were unable to walk a short 
distance without feeling greatly fatigued, who, 
when sight-seeing abroad, as among the moun- 
tains of Switzerland, have been able to undertake 
walks of several miles without experiencing 
sensations of fatigue, and who, after having got 
wet through in the rain, were unable to take off 
their clothes till they had become dry, without 
taking cold or being otherwise prejudicially 
affected. The appetite, likewise, being sharpened 
by travelling and constant change of air, not 
only renders persons much less particular as to 
the quality of the food which is set before them, 
but enables the stomach to digest with facility 
many substances which would at other times be 
likely to disagree. Road travelling for health or 
pleasure is, however, almost superseded in Eng- 
land, or at all events is restricted to the summer 
and early autumnal months ; whereas a principal 
advantage of many parts of the Continent fre- 
quented by the English is, that a journey may 
be undertaken at almost any time of the year, 
and, as I have before said, a residence at any of 
these places enables persons to be more out of 
doors in the winter than they could be in Eng- 
land. The Continent likewise possesses advan- 
tages over England, on account of the greater 



APPENDIX. 3-49 

variety of impressions produced by the novelty 
of" seeing- the different habits, manners, &c., of 
tlic people, and of hearing a foreign language ; 
the towns also oifer a much greater variety of 
I'esources, in the numerous galleries, objects of 
art, &c., likely to excite an interest, so that, 
when a protracted absence of several months 
from home is contemplated, it would be prefer- 
able, though for the present not so available as 
heretofore. 

With respect to the permanent residence of 
individuals in health, the Continent has its 
advantages and disadvantages. Single men and 
others, who have no particular ties, and can 
move from place to place, find more resources in 
the way of occupation and amusement, at a 
comparatively cheap rate, than they could do in 
England. There is likewise more association 
abroad, from the circumstance of people meeting 
more at public places, as restaui'ants, cafes, 
tables d'hote, theatres, and from their being for 
the most part desosuvres, or in pursuit of the 
same object — amusement; whereas in England 
many of this portion of the population, who have 
not a large circle of acquaintance, are frequently 
under the necessity of eating their solitary 
dinner in their apartments, or at their club, and 
of passing the evenings alone. This is one of tlu^ 
reasons why a prolonged sojourn in London is 
distasteful to those foreigners who liave but few 
friends and no fixed occupation. 'Hie above- 



350 APPENDIX. 

mentioned circumstances, however, tend to beget 
in our countrymen the habit of a wandering, 
idle, and unsettled sort of life, which many of 
them find, after a time, to be but ill suited to 
their natural activity of disposition, and are 
consequently greatly instrumental in the produc- 
tion of discontent and ennui. 

The principal inducements for families to 
prefer a residence on the Continent to England 
are economy, the comparative facilities for the 
education of children,' as far as languages and 
accomplishments are concerned, and the more 
easy and unrestrained tone of society. Persons, 
it is true, might live in many parts of England 
as cheaply as on the Continent, but they could 
not procure the luxuries of life at so low a rate. 
Thus, house-rent, the keep of carriages, horses, 
servants, the price of wines, public amusements, 
&c., are in many towns little more than half the 
expence which they would be in England, and 
in some places are much less : a family might, 
for example, live in any of the principal towns 
in Italy for six or eight hundred pounds a year, 
in the same manner which would require two 
thousand in London, In the towms of Germany 
and the south of France the rate of living is 
even lower. Many, however, who do not remain 
the whole year at one place, add considerably to 
their expenditure by travelling about from place 
to place. Florence is, perhaps, on the whole, 
the most eligible town for a permanent residence 



APPENDIX. 



351 



in Italy. Tours, Pan, or, where English society 
is not required, Toulouse, in the south of France ; 
Munich, Dresden, Wiesbaden, and Frankfort, 
are the most eligible among the towns of 
Germany. Brussels presents many advantages, 
but is nearly twice as expensive a residence as 
Bruges. Boulogne is the pleasantest residence 
in the north of France. Several English ha-\e 
established themsehes at Caen and other towns 
in that neighbourhood, where living is very 
cheap; though I cannot speak of its other 
advantages, never having \isited that j^art. 

With regard to education, though instruction 
in accomplishments is more easily obtained 
abroad, and a knowledge of languages is best 
acquired in the different countries, yet it is very 
questionable whether a prolonged residence for 
young people on the Continent be not rather 
disadvantageous than the reverse, in more 
respects than one. The passing of several 
successive years in Italy, or even a single year 
in some instances, is generally prejudicial as far 
as health is concerned, especially to young- 
people, from the relaxing and enervating nature 
of tlie climate, and the prevalence of malaria 
in some parts. Young ladies, in particular, 
frequently exhibit in their countenances and 
general appearance the marks of a prolonged 
residence in a southern clime, and I perfectly 
agree with Lady Blessington, who is likely to b(^ 
a very good judge of such matters, that '' the 



352 APPENDIX. 

Italian climate has the same effects on female 
beauty as a hot-house on rose-buds; but it 
quickly withers full-grown roses. Women of 
twenty-five in Italy look quite as passees as 
those of thirty-five in England, and after twenty 
they lose that freshness of complexion which 
forms so great a charm in our young women. 
In short, they want the appearance of youth, for 
the absence of which no beauty can com- 
pensate."* 

England likewise has greatly the advantage 
over Italy for a permanent residence, as far as 
longevity is concerned, to which circumstance 
reference has already been made. Thus, at 
Naples the average annual mortality is about 
one in twenty-eight persons of the whole 
population; at Florence and Rome it is not 
much less ; whereas in London it amounts only 
to one in forty ; and taking the account for the 
whole of England, to no more than one in sixty ; 
so that, if these statistics be correct, the advan- 
tage of England in this respect is manifest ; but 
it does not follow that those who have the 
power of choosing the periods of their resi- 
dence may not frequently avail themselves of 
that which is good in both, and derive much 
gratification, as well as benefit to their health, 
by a visit to the Continent for a portion of the 
year. 

* Idler in Italy. 



APPENDIX. 353 



NOTE. 

It is very advisable for invalids, while travelling, as well as persons in 
health, not to sit too long at a time in the carriage, bnt to get out now 
and then to walk up the hills, or at the post-stations, as, by so doing, 
the fatigue consequent upon the muscles being kept long in the same 
position will be avoided. Those persons who labour under serious 
affections of the air-passages may be provided with a Jeffrey's respirator, 
though its too frequent use is not to be recommended, as tending to 
render the organs more susceptible. A pair of leather sheets may be 
placed beneath the seat-cushions, as a precaution against damp beds, 
which, however, are seldom met with in France or Italy. Essence of 
ginger is a useful stimulant ; and a teaspoonful in a cup of tea on 
arriving after a day's journey is very refreshing. Those who are in weak 
health, and travellers in general, should eat very sparingly of animal food 
when on a journey, as it tends to produce heat and flushing. Black tea 
is one of the most useful articles travellers can be provided with, as it is 
seldom good in small towns or at inns on the road. As an evening meal, 
tea, with a little cold meat or chicken, is much preferable to a hot dinner 
or supper, which not unfrequeutly is a cause of sleeplessness. Those who 
are subject to cold feet should be provided with short boots of coarse 
cloth, to slip on and off, over their ordinary boots, as occasion may 
require ; and a small feet- warmer should be placed in the carriage. A 
large medicine-chest, which is a constant companion of many families, 
will be cumbersome and unnecessary, as almost all drugs and medicines 
of good quality may be obtained in all the towns frequented by invalids. 
A small chest containing a few articles likely to be required at out-of- 
the-way places (as lint, soap-plaster, James's powder, a small quantity 
of calomel, laudanum, extract of henbane, spirits of ammonia, tartarised 
antimony, castor oil, rhubarb, weights and scales), will, however, be a 
useful precautionary addition to the luggage. 

TUE END. 



W. J. ADAMS, PRINTEE, 59, FLEET-STREET, LONDON. 



^^£ 1059 



